Hawaiian Snow & SuoperSilverHaze - ScrOG/400w HPS

[Mike_Hunt]

This is my second indoor grow. Any input/advice is very much appreciated!



I started out from seed (Greenhouse Seeds co.) using 2x200w cfls.




2 SSH clones, my little experiment since I've never tried cloning before. I used clonex.

 

[Mike_Hunt]

{{{(>_<)}}}

 

[Mike_Hunt]

o(╥﹏╥)o

 

[Daffy]

Ditch the CFLs get another 400 w MH. The HIDs are 49% more efficient. Adding the dual spectrum would tremendously benefit your op because the plants need lots of blue light to grow. Cytokinin is a growth hormone which is released when plants are exposed to photosynthetically usable radiation/PUR that triggers the plant to grow. The largest spike in the PUR chart is in 690 nm range/blue light. More light equals faster growth, denser nugs, and a larger yield.

 

[Mike_Hunt]

the cfls have been ditched for a while now i only used them in the beginning...

i'll buy a MH for the next grow. this one i'll finish up with HPS only since i'm gonna put them in flower in a week or so.

 

[Daffy]

They would work for some underneath lighting since you're not going to be able to buy the MH until next time. They also compliment the spectrum to make it grow much faster like it does in the sun. The HPS is obviously missing the blue spectrum which is the most photosynthetically usable for the plant. My advice is add the cfls as underlights, then Twist and train the branches that don't fit up top to the bottom. This should improve the quality, yield, and density of the buds. The results will pay for the extra electricity and work. what kind of soil do you use? How many plants you have? What size is the room? What nutrients do you use? How many times have you grown? What do you expect for yield? Do you use RO?

 

[tehbosh]

Very nice setup here. clean, simple and productive.

 

[Mike_Hunt]

They would work for some underneath lighting since you're not going to be able to buy the MH until next time. They also compliment the spectrum to make it grow much faster like it does in the sun. The HPS is obviously missing the blue spectrum which is the most photosynthetically usable for the plant. My advice is add the cfls as underlights, then Twist and train the branches that don't fit up top to the bottom. This should improve the quality, yield, and density of the buds. The results will pay for the extra electricity and work. what kind of soil do you use? How many plants you have? What size is the room? What nutrients do you use? How many times have you grown? What do you expect for yield? Do you use RO?

i actually wanted to use the cfls as some extra underneath-lighting. my dad doesn't want to though cause it would use too much electricity and he doesn't have a lot of money...

for soil I use the all-mix from biobizz. there are, as the title of this topic sais, 2 plants: hawaiian snow (in front) and supersilverhaze (in the back).
nutrients are from guano



in addition to that, i also bought hesi nutrients containing lots of phosphorus for flower.
the room is about 1 square meter and i have grown indoor only once before (the first time i used the cfls throughout the grow and the outcome was therefore pretty poor, white rhino and bigbang gave me about a 40g total)
grow log is here: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=158633
for yield i expect a lot more than the first time. i'm hoping for at least 150g total.

i do not know what RO is. xD

 

[Daffy]

Oh well what can you do. You should turn the light 12/12 if you haven't already I can already see it's going to need some pruning. Another tip I heard you might not have is if you prune during flowering that many annuals and perennial flowers will produce more flowers to compensate. I'm just finishing some thai skunk. Don't think it will be much as I expected. I had tried to do some building during mid grow then never got around to fixing the position of my lights for a couple of weeks. As soon as those are done I already have some white widow max, silver haze, afghani, and three bag seeds that are 6 weeks in.

 

[Daffy]

RO is Reverse Osmosis water or do you use tap water/rain water.

 

[Mike_Hunt]

just regular tap water.
i'm gonna leave them in veg just a little more so the branches all get about 20-30 cm over the net. that's what a friend who also did a scrog with hawaiian snow suggested me to do.
i'll be pruning them in flower then, thanks for the advice

 

[Daffy]

do you own a TDS and Ph meter's because for me tap water was unacceptable as mine had 550 ppm w/o nutes not to mention the chlorine. I use 100% RO which has ppm of 0 so you can add the more nutes and have a lot of control. RO water costs me .26 cents gallon. I use 1 gallon a day during flowering approximately $25 for each cycle. But if your tap water is extremely hard like mine was it will adversely affect your crop.

 

[yesum]

I saved that horse pic. A metal halide would be better for flower too, as the sativas would benefit with more complete spectrum.

 

[Mike_Hunt]

i do have some litmus papers... my water, as far as i know, doesn't contain any chlorine. i've been giving it to my plants ever since they sprouted and they look fine so i guess it's ok.

 

[Mike_Hunt]

set them on flowering today. next pix will be pretty, promise =)

8-10 weeks to go

 

[Daffy]

looks good man. What is your feeding schedule? If you aren't already cut out any nitrogen feedings for the first week-or two until they start flowering. It will help start them flowering quicker and they aren't supposed to stretch as much. Then continue with the same N as in veg and increase a little each feeding(never down). The plant seems to be able to handle as much as you can give it but the dose has do be graduated slowly. Another thing is don't overdo the phosphorus. A little goes a long ways besides you have 8 weeks to increase the dose. The Phosphorus promotes cell enlargement, is required for photosynthesis, and root development. You want to build up the reserves of Phosphorus gradually that way the plant uses it and stores it. In the last last two weeks of flowering when your buds plump out and you're flushing, those reserves built up will make the difference in yield. Also I don't know the weeks before it shows sex as flowering but I wouldn't. It's likely to be 10-12 wks before you harvest. 1 week to dry. 1 week cure. I only say this so that you don't harvest early which would make it pointless to grow it in the first place.

 

[Mike_Hunt]

looks good man. What is your feeding schedule? If you aren't already cut out any nitrogen feedings for the first week-or two until they start flowering. It will help start them flowering quicker and they aren't supposed to stretch as much. Then continue with the same N as in veg and increase a little each feeding(never down). The plant seems to be able to handle as much as you can give it but the dose has do be graduated slowly. Another thing is don't overdo the phosphorus. A little goes a long ways besides you have 8 weeks to increase the dose. The Phosphorus promotes cell enlargement, is required for photosynthesis, and root development. You want to build up the reserves of Phosphorus gradually that way the plant uses it and stores it. In the last last two weeks of flowering when your buds plump out and you're flushing, those reserves built up will make the difference in yield. Also I don't know the weeks before it shows sex as flowering but I wouldn't. It's likely to be 10-12 wks before you harvest. 1 week to dry. 1 week cure. I only say this so that you don't harvest early which would make it pointless to grow it in the first place.

thanks for the valuable advice! very much appreciate it!

 

[Mike_Hunt]

it's a forest, so awesome...

 

[Daffy]

have you sexed?

 

[Mike_Hunt]

have you sexed?

lol i would have never invested 6-7 weeks in vegging plants that i'm not sure they're female xD those were feminized seeds from GHS