The Official Hempy Bucket Thread

[bendoslendo]

i have a mix of perlite and vermiculite..so does this mean im not good to recycle unless i lose the vermiculite?

Try doing it once and you'll see the problem. The verm breaks down to a silver sandy crap.

 

[badbudz]

ok..thanks..think i will go all perlite

 

[livewire420]

im about to run some hempy buckets anyone ever have any problems just using maxibloom dry fert?

 

[Ty_Kaycha]

im about to run some hempy buckets anyone ever have any problems just using maxibloom dry fert?

I haven't used it yet in hempys but for my next run I plan on testing it with two buckets along with a touch of Floralicious (added about once a week) in a soilless mixture of silica stone, perlite & coco croutons. I've used MaxiBloom in other systems with good results and I've also used the forementioned soilless mixture too, also with good results. Hoping the combo of the two will still result in a good yield.

 

[thefalsediviner]

im about to run some hempy buckets anyone ever have any problems just using maxibloom dry fert?

MaxiGrow, Maxibloom, and Koolbloom are all OK for hydroponic use. Remember Hempy's are passive hydro so any nutrient designed for hydro will work some better than others off the shelf.

I'm by no means advocating anyones formula Head, Rez, or Lucas but if you use the nutrient profiling calculators on cannastats.com you can convert the manufactures NPK analysis numbers to ppm measurements so you can dial just about any hydro nutrient line into known working formulas IE: Head, Rez, or Lucas. All of which work for plenty of folks using Hempy's and other hydro methods.

For instance I use DWC and Hempy's and I use my own nutrient formula which has a ppm value of:

N=135
P=61
K=202
Mg=43
Ca=99

Moreover, if your local shop doesn't carry the same line of nutrients I'm using you can now duplicate my formula closely with what they do have by using the nutrient profiling calculators on cannastats.com

TFD

 

[CharacterZero]

i read somewhere that lucas doesn't work that well for hempy buckets. or maybe following the directions on the back of the bottle or on the box of maxibloom would be best. thats at least what hempy said.

 

[Japanfreakier]

That might have been me who said that. I found that using the recipe worked much better than Lucas but when I switched to hempy it was only natural for me to use lucas because I had been using it for 5 years with good results. After switching to the recipe on the bottle however my yield went up noticeably in hempy. I'm growing Jackie-O at the moment and it is supposed to be a very sensitive strain and even it can take full strength with only slight tip burn.

 

[CharacterZero]

i read a post from hempy that said to only feed by the directions of the bottle. also, i think i did read your post about how your plants didn't like lucas.. i read that somewhere, cant remember.

but following the directions on the bottle cannot be more simple. every watering.

i dont have any experience with hempy buckets yet. i am reading about them currently because I am using them next time.

are you the guy that did the hempy's in a tub? i seen it on another site. i think i want to use a tub too. if you put 6 plant in a 14 gallon tub, how long to veg?

also: anyone use floranova with hempy buckets? i was wondering because i thought if you go by the directions on the nova bottle, it would be the lucas formula.. because, i always see people typing "nova is lucas in a bottle". also i have tap water and the ph is around 7.5. not sure if lucas works okay with tap water or not like if you use the gh 3 part with the hard water micro

 

[Japanfreakier]

That's me. You veg for however long you want to veg, for me usually it's right around 2 weeks.

 

[CharacterZero]

i learned a lot from your thread man. those look beautiful

thanks for all the information

how much did you yield from that with a 2 week veg? dry weight.. also what light?

 

[Japanfreakier]

I hover around 0.8gpw with a 2 week veg on a 50 day strain regardless of the light I use. I normally run a 250 and a 400 in two closets. Right now I'm doing a seed run so I expect less. I made one of these tubes for a friend and he hit 0.5gpw on his 2nd try.

 

[CharacterZero]

hell yeah, cant complain about .8 if it works out for me, im gonna stick with it for a while.

i am trying to decided on:
4 or 5 of those tubs under a 1000w w/refelctor (blockbuster).

or do a 1000w vertical bare bulb and just use 10l buckets like hempy.

sea of green would be the idea of the tubs, but that means im gonna need a lot of clones. plant numbers do not matter in my state, though.

still leaning towards the vertical setup.

i always at least get .5gpw so i am trying to do a lot better this time. i am only used to soil, though.

 

[thefalsediviner]

One of the big reasons I use nutrient profiling (converting NPK % to ppms) is the precision in which I can make nutrient adjustments.

For example my old veg nutrient formula had a ppm value of:

N=166
P=40
K=151
Mg=40
Ca=94

I have three strains I'm working with. AK48, NL, and I was given a White Widow not to long ago. The white widow shows what I believe is phosphorus (P) deficiency.

I decide to bump my P up 20 ppm or so. Using the nutrient calculator I find that 2ml per gal of hydroplex will raise my P by 24ppm and my K by 27 and I get 3ppm Mg. This leaves us with an amended profile of:

N=166
P=64
K=178
Mg=43
Ca=94

So I run with the amended formula for a bit and discover that the WW is doing much better and that the other strains are working with the new formula as well. Moreover, if I had gone without the nutrient profile conversion and administered say, 5ml per gal, which would have resulted in doubling my P instead of the 50% adjustment I achieved. The 50% adjustment being less likely to result in me chasing my tail when the plant goes from deficiency to burn.

Regardless of which nutrients and or formula you want to run with, get familiar with nutrient profiling and look at your nutrients as ppms as apposed to NPK percentages.

TFD

 

[CharacterZero]

One of the big reasons I use nutrient profiling (converting NPK % to ppms) is the precision in which I can make nutrient adjustments.

For example my old veg nutrient formula had a ppm value of:

N=166
P=40
K=151
Mg=40
Ca=94

I have three strains I'm working with. AK48, NL, and I was given a White Widow not to long ago. The white widow shows what I believe is phosphorus (P) deficiency.

I decide to bump my P up 20 ppm or so. Using the nutrient calculator I find that 2ml per gal of hydroplex will raise my P by 24ppm and my K by 27 and I get 3ppm Mg. This leaves us with an amended profile of:

N=166
P=64
K=178
Mg=43
Ca=94

So I run with the amended formula for a bit and discover that the WW is doing much better and that the other strains are working with the new formula as well. Moreover, if I had gone without the nutrient profile conversion and administered say, 5ml per gal, which would have resulted in doubling my P instead of the 50% adjustment I achieved. The 50% adjustment being less likely to result in me chasing my tail when the plant goes from deficiency to burn.

Regardless of which nutrients and or formula you want to run with, get familiar with nutrient profiling and look at your nutrients as ppms as apposed to NPK percentages.

TFD

i thought the idea of hempy buckets were to keep it simple. i have no ppm (tc/ec) meter or anything like that. I am used to soil growing so that is why im interested in hempy buckets. follow directions on the bottle and there should be no problems. if they look like they are getting burned ill back off a little.

i will consider purchasing a meter and getting familiar with nutrient profiling when i am more comfortable with hydroponics

by the time i get to that level, i mite as well set up a NFT or a flood table..

or i mite like hempy's so much, that ill keep doing it that way and enjoy my buds without the hassle.

 

[badbudz]

im with you CharacterZero,the less complications the better,thats what attracted me to this simple but effective method...and thanks again hempy man..my plants look happy as pigs in shit in there new hempy homes....

 

[Japanfreakier]

I got pH & PPM meters but stopped using them years ago.

 

[thefalsediviner]

i thought the idea of hempy buckets were to keep it simple. i have no ppm (tc/ec) meter or anything like that. I am used to soil growing so that is why im interested in hempy buckets. follow directions on the bottle and there should be no problems. if they look like they are getting burned ill back off a little.

i will consider purchasing a meter and getting familiar with nutrient profiling when i am more comfortable with hydroponics

by the time i get to that level, i mite as well set up a NFT or a flood table..

or i mite like hempy's so much, that ill keep doing it that way and enjoy my buds without the hassle.

Couple of things here.

Why would anyone really need a PH or EC/TDS/ppm meter for growing weed?

The information I'm sharing is simple. Anyone can arm themselves with fairly solid PH and ppm information on there tap water(RO'ed or not) and nutrient solutions, using simple drop and vile testing equipment and basic math (for which there is already a calculator online).

Hempy's are pure hydroponics not soil. PH and nutrient issues in soil develop and resolve over a longer period of time, these things happen very quikly in hydroponics. If you are not arming yourself with reasonable PH and ppm information you're likely to end up chasing your tail at some point. Aside from mechanical failure, PH and nutrient issues are the main reasons for failed hydroponic grows. If you are dependable enought to water on schedule, Hempy's practicaly illiminated the risk of mechanical failure.

I spend maybe an hour and a half on my grow weekly. I test for PH 4-6 times a month and general hardness monthly. I convert dGH(degrees of General Hardness) to ppm, 1 dGH=17.848 ppm. My nutrient solutions run in the 500-600ppm range at mixing. I use a total of 4 nutrient products between my Veg Cab and Flower room. I'm useing all these products at less than half of their full recommended strengths.

Given that differences between your tap water and my tap water could be as much as 500ppm, I'm not going to be the one that tells you to roll with the directions on the bottle. I'm also not going to be the guy that fucks up someone elses grow by implying that you dont need reliable PH and ppm information to grow hydro. Some people, me included, are blessed with tap water that is <200ppm. We can probably get away with the directions on the bottle. Those that are unfortunate enough to have harder water most likely will have trouble with the directions on the bottle.

I got pH & PPM meters but stopped using them years ago.

The only reason your having success with out reliable PH and ppm information is the quality of your water source. It has very little to do with the brand of nutrients you use, even less to do with the hempy's, and relies alot on good fortune. I hope that doesn't change for you.

The fact that you stopped using your meters years ago isn't going to help anyone out unless you explain why. Moreover, some one might actually decide that if Japanfreakier get good results without reliable PH and ppm information they can to. Of course they didn't know that their tap spews 500ppm venom and now there growing experience just got a whole lot more complicated.

Lastly, I'm sharing stuff that is general knowledge horticultural information. I'm not interested in your choices beyond that. You can share you opinion on this stuff all you want, just try not to kill off someone else's grow along the way.


TFD

 

[Japanfreakier]

The only reason your having success with out reliable PH and ppm information is the quality of your water source. It has very little to do with the brand of nutrients you use, even less to do with the hempy's, and relies alot on good fortune. I hope that doesn't change for you.

Of course it's all about the water, but having grown for 8 years doesn't hurt either.

You know I think people like you try to justify your wasted time and your wasted words but when it comes down to it, mix your nutes dump them in. I hope that one day you learn that and do us the favor of keeping your posts shorter.

 

[Japanfreakier]

By the way, most tap water in the U.S. has a neutral pH of 7. That means that most people don't need to care about their pH to grow. Most of the people who bought pH pens and PPM pens don't need. Dem the facts.

 

[thefalsediviner]

Of course it's all about the water, but having grown for 8 years doesn't hurt either.

You know I think people like you try to justify your wasted time and your wasted words but when it comes down to it, mix your nutes dump them in. I hope that one day you learn that and do us the favor of keeping your posts shorter.

Hope this is short enough for you. Your eight years and .8 grams per watt should quantify you as being a below average grower. The fact that you've been regestered here since 2006 and you're not doing better does. Statements like "Mix yur nutes an dump em in" explain why. Feel free to talk more shit about people like me. FYI I would never have the balls to toss out a .8 gram per watt number and act like I know dick about growing weed. Makes me wonder if your not retard happy.

TFD