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Lil Friend Not So Happy With Life...

R3ZIN

Member
R3ZIN, I dunno why you keep on adding epsom salts and say will continue to do so if you noticed unfavorable effects after application.

?

Epsom Salts is for a Cal Mag issue. I do not think the actual application of it is causing a problem but the way I applied it and in what strength.

OK a couple tips for newbs (or anyone who doesn't already know:

KNOW why you're adding something to the plants. Because you bought it or someone told you THEY used it is not a good enough answer. Does your plant need it? If not then don't add it!

Also, when it comes to manufacturers labels and recommended doses, most of them are not weed-specific, which is actually a pretty light feeding C3 plant. I typically start at 1/4 the recommended dose and work my way up when starting something new. Only after you've used it for a few crops can you judge it's strength and effectiveness.

Good Tips there and also the reason why I added the Epsom salts was for the Cal Mag issue which from what I understand Yellowing Leaves = Calcium Deficiency and Rust Spots = Magnesium deficiency....no? Apparently Epsom = Magnesium / Dolomite Lime or um the other thing = Calcium
 

slowandeasy

Active member
Veteran
Epsom Salts is for a Cal Mag issue. I do not think the actual application of it is causing a problem but the way I applied it and in what strength.







Good Tips there and also the reason why I added the Epsom salts was for the Cal Mag issue which from what I understand Yellowing Leaves = Calcium Deficiency and Rust Spots = Magnesium deficiency....no? Apparently Epsom = Magnesium / Dolomite Lime or um the other thing = Calcium

I am new to Coco, but not a new grower. Epsom Salts is for Magnesium, not Calcium. Looks like a pH problem from lockout to me. Flush that shit out. Did you rinse your coco good before planting? That can cause major problems. As stated before, do not use anything until the plant tells you it needs it. Adding Magnesium when not needed is prolly why this happened.

As I said I am new to Coco, but have done hydro for a very long time. For me atleast, I use RO water with 100ppm of Cal-Mag, then mix my nutes. Plants did not look as good with just tap or just RO water. My tap is very low, so I might try my tap again with a splash of Cal-Mag on some clones...but RO and Cal-Mag with nutes have made my plants look way better than without.

BTW a good cheap pH pen is the Eco-Tester by Oakton. I have used alot, and for the money it is the best I have used so far. Good luck with your grow. My advice is to stop using Epsom Salts and flush your plants. Try it without and see what happens, adding shit when you have problems makes the problem worse. Take care.
 
C

Carl Carlson

explain why after the OP over-dosed with epsons salt, that the problems started to appear?


direct quote from my 2nd reply:

If my math is right, you are using 31 ppm Mg, which along side PBP would be ok, but just with liquid Karma is probably going to lock out whatever tiny amount of potassium and calcium (if any in Karma) and also in the coco itself. But that's not a "pH issue". That's cation exchange in action.

Do you guys use the phrase "pH issue" as a catch-all for everything that can possibly go wrong in a grow room? Is that it?
How is it possible I'm the only person that commented on the massive temp. and humidity swings? You all need to take 10 minutes to learn about transpiration and how it's affected by temp. and humidity.

And similar to the University professor that I quoted above in a previous reply, my tap water pH during the summer and fall is somtimes over 9.0, but the alkalinity stays low all year long. If I buy a camera before the end of the summer, I'll document one my grows as a "NO PH ADJUSTMENT COCO DTW GROW" in order to hammer home the point that growers need to self educate on the subject of water quality.
 

bombadil.360

Andinismo Hierbatero
Veteran
Do you guys use the phrase "pH issue" as a catch-all for everything that can possibly go wrong in a grow room? Is that it?



yup, that is what we do around here man.

just say: "pH this, pH that".

we were waiting for someone as knowledgeable as yourself to set us all straight. good thing you registered to tell us all how it is.

also, you mis-understand what you were told by your professor buddy... the pH of their water is adjusted after they add fertilizer.

"and we know from measuring pH before and after fertilizer addition that the addition of the fertilizer salts that we use will adjust the pH downward."

this is why their 9.0 pH water grows great plants.

:comfort:

How is it possible I'm the only person that commented on the massive temp. and humidity swings? You all need to take 10 minutes to learn about transpiration and how it's affected by temp. and humidity.


all friendly bantering aside... you have a point there.
his grow environment is not the greatest.
adjusting it will surely help the plant's health and overall recovery.

however, cannabis is pretty hardy and can grow in such environments, and when the OP added epsom salts to the point of over-dosing, his problems appeared (before they did not have such problem, even within his mal-adjusted environment), at least, according to his first post. so it is common sense to advice him to stop using epsom salts, specially since he does not really need them.

be good.
 

R3ZIN

Member
Thanks guys any input on what to add to the nute linup from Botanicare to fill in the gaps? etc?

Should it be Karma + PBPG + Calmag Plus for Veg and then Karma + PBPB + Cal Mag plus for flower?
 

mojo420

Member
Carl - I disagree - Your info is not necessarily accurate for someone like myself who recirculates - I use RO water with a pH of 7 and an ec of 30 and I use bagged Canna coco coir and their A and B. So not only is my water not shitty but neither are my ferts. I HAVE to pH my reservoirs at least once a day for the few years I've been recirculating, due to the return pulling its pH down.

Drain to waste is a different story to a certain extent - what you put in each time is the same and what you get out the bottom pretty much stays the same. That is, IF you put enough water through them at each feeding for a while, til they stabilize... but every time I re-pot into fresh coco, it starts all over again and I need to pH high till everything settles in. I've never had a grow yet, that the pH didn't change on the fly, as you put it...
 

bombadil.360

Andinismo Hierbatero
Veteran
Thanks guys any input on what to add to the nute linup from Botanicare to fill in the gaps? etc?

Should it be Karma + PBPG + Calmag Plus for Veg and then Karma + PBPB + Cal Mag plus for flower?


more than 'filling up gaps', what you need to understand is that the more stuff you add without understanding what you are doing, the greater the risks of something going wrong.

deficiencies/hunger are easily corrected, but once nute burn or excess of certain elements (even excess water) in the medium become the problem, then it is not that easy nor fast to fix.

liquid karma is just a conditioner for the medium, go easy with it.
and the bloom formula you have is ideally used for flowering, but you can also use it for veg, but also go easy with them, as Lazyman already said, start low and build your way up; usually with cannabis one does not need to use full-strength.

the idea is that when your plant is reaching the final stages of flowering, that it gets to use all the food stored in the fan leaves, so they start to yellow up and fall off easily and naturally.

be careful with the watering, light-quality and grow environment overall, which are very important factors; remember the main source of food for your girls is light transformed into energy through photosynthesis.

it is not really about adding tons of nutes and 'filling in the gaps' with all sorts of amendments.

you already have a bottle of a medium conditioner and a bottle of nutes. you don't need much else. if you feel your nute does not have enough cal-mag, whenever you add it, go very easy with it, start very low and see how it goes.

good luck!
 

R3ZIN

Member
I'm so happy guys for all your help. After reading and reading and more reading, then pondering, I have come to the conclusion, though I'm not that bright :D, that I nute burnt it to shit using full strength nutes.

I am now flushing with PH'd water (four litres)(Light Orange / Dark Yellow).

I have also got the nutes fixed to 1/4 the strength or there abouts.

I am going to pic up some PBPG Coco nutes & Cal Mag sometime this week.

I am going to order an EC / TDS Pen.

I think all is going to be well. I am going to re-read this post and others again :)

Thank you all for your parts in helping me to figure this game out!

I'll update y'all soon on the improvements.
 

R3ZIN

Member
Update: my lil friend is soo much happier now. I got some PBPG and am feeding at 1/4 strength. I'll update with pics another day but doing much better and growth has resumed.

Solution: Know what you're giving to your plants and give it in the correct dosages (1/4 strength from the instructions on bottle and work up from there). Don't overfert or over anything through foliage spraying :)

<3 Much love guys.
 

Darth Fader

Member
REZIN, glad it's getting better.

Chemical salts will build-up in coco over time, but especially when it dries out. I've found that regular flushing prevents buildup & resulting lockout. Right now I feed for 3 days, then on the 4th day I will only water (no nutes), just ro water + 5ml FloraKleen. You can probably skip the Florakleen, I'm using it to be on the safe side. BTW, I'm experimenting w/ the every 4th day, this may work just as well once a week. Just don't ignore it. Also, canna coco nutes are well-regarded and would be a no-brainer since you're in their coco.

P.S. Carl - thx for the great info. I don't know a thing about alkalinity, but I do believe people make way to big a deal of pH in coco, esp when they argue 5.5 vs 5.8 vs 6.0. Seems trivial.
 
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