What do you or anyone think is better or is it a lot different. This system vs the RDWC by blazeoneup. I don't want to make an argument just want the best system for me. Please look at what i have started. Thanks GWE
BigTokes ~ "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
- Thread starter BigToke
- Start date
Are you a Boxers or Briefs kind of man?
kroonikko1
New member
Rattrap: I use sera no2 test that is used at aquariums. I put few pictures at evening when i get my camera back. Have you used baking soda or something to stabilize Ph? My ph has dropped to 5.4 at 6.1 for some reason. I think BigToke said that he got same think that ph dropped, but i can't remember was it on earlier stage. I need to go and read the first two pages again. =)
Ok there was printed that after two weeks of system running Ph dropped about 5.5 and continued to 4.8. I think that i'm going to see does that happen me too. I have been vegging 18 days now. I didnt let the system run week empty. It ran only few days.
Ok there was printed that after two weeks of system running Ph dropped about 5.5 and continued to 4.8. I think that i'm going to see does that happen me too. I have been vegging 18 days now. I didnt let the system run week empty. It ran only few days.
C
Casual
I'm getting close to pulling clones off my two moms for the first time, they'll be going in a home made aerocloner... I'm wondering if anyone running a BioBucket system can enlighten me on how long/how much rooting should be going on when they're ready to go into the buckets. Some of the cloner pics I've seen show 10" long roots. How long should the roots be?
Thanks all!
Caz
Thanks all!
Caz
kp^
Member
From my BB exp the larger the root mass, the faster they exploded in the BB system. My clones where ~8-14inches when I put my first batch in. The larger clones EXPLODED quickly in size and root mass.
I did not measure, nor can I find a pic of the cloens before they went into buckets... my bad 
.My general rule of thumb is that I will put my clones into the BB when they are at least 6-10" inches high. I will veg in buckets for 1-3wks depending on strain. the rest of the time is flower!!
GOod luck, and happy growing! Be sure to post a thread of our grow so other BB'ers can follow.
Big toke is it alright to copy this tutorial for another web site and post it there giving you full credit for it ? I ask because I am not sure of the policy at the other site on articles linking to another grow site . oh and is there any problem with linking to this article from another site so the readers there can benefit.
how do you start and add nutrients??
how do you start and add nutrients??
i have read and read and cant find anywhere on how exactly general hydroponic 3 part nutrients are used in b.b.????'
i can understand how to start up but then when do we "add" more nutrients.??? by ppm readings or top off water total??? and when and how do you add them?? it was my understanding you were supposed to always add micronutrient first ,to avoid nutrient lockout???
and with regular dwc and gh nutes it was always recomended to add 1/4 teas. epsom salts to boost magnesium -which is low in gh nutes right off the shelf??? how do you replace mg?? during grow ???
and how do you shift from veg 3-2-1 nutes to flower ing 1-2-3??
how do you start and add nutrients??
i have read and read and cant find anywhere on how exactly general hydroponic 3 part nutrients are used in b.b.????'
i can understand how to start up but then when do we "add" more nutrients.??? by ppm readings or top off water total??? and when and how do you add them?? it was my understanding you were supposed to always add micronutrient first ,to avoid nutrient lockout???
and with regular dwc and gh nutes it was always recomended to add 1/4 teas. epsom salts to boost magnesium -which is low in gh nutes right off the shelf??? how do you replace mg?? during grow ???
and how do you shift from veg 3-2-1 nutes to flower ing 1-2-3??
foliohattu
New member
hey angel!
my approach is very non-scientific. i've read this and all BTs topics, and i wasn't able to grasp his nutrient management. so i thought "how difficult can it be?" i got myself micro and bloom bottles of that 3-part and started using lucas formula. with great results, i might add.
((target - current) / target) * 8 ml per gallon * res gallons = Flora Micro (ml) double this figure to get Flora Bloom (ml)
i'm sure that theres threads here on icmag as well, but this (http://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/4387-lucas-formula.html) was what a quick google lookup brought up. i don't really bother that much about micronutrients or epson salts or mg levels. i started using that add back calculator, but after a while a realized that even that was unnecessary for me and my requirements.
so.. at start of new round i'll set up E.C to .5-0.8 with ratio of 1 part micro to 2 parts of bloom. during veg i'll pump that E.C up to 1 with 1/2 ratio. then in flowering i'll keep bumping that E.C up until about 1.3 and i'll keep it there until the end. at the moment E.C is at 1.28. for this latest white castle grow i wanted to limit amount of N in solution, so i've been using ratio of 1/3 or even 1/4 with dash of bio-nova's missing link.
when i add nutrients, i take little amount, say a litre into jug and i mix nutes there adding micro first and then bloom. and then just pour that into res. easy. from veg to flowering, i really do nothing but start bumping those E.C levels and cut back micro at some point. probably again not recommended way but works for me. no res changeouts. at all.
actually, i have a friend who does no change-outs at all. not even in between the crops. just change like 50% of the water by washing pipes and buckets and placing new plants in new netpots into the system. i was (and still am) a bit sceptic, but he wanted to try it out and has now third crop w/o ever emptying or cleaning system throughout. seems to be working and thus proves even more this type of growing. though i'm pretty sure that those who know / understand more dont't recommend this. well, ignorance -once again- is bliss.
fh
is any1 using a venturi instead of a waterfall for aeration? apparently, you can obtain higher o2 levels with this method, and you dont have to elevate everything on an angle and no need for waterfall or resevoir fans, what do you yall think?? 
thanks for reply foliahattu!! cool thanks so with that formula basically your adding (8 ml / gal micro )x(#of gal in system) and then(16 ml/gal bloom)x(# of gal in system)at start up /plant insertion day?????? so if say 22 gallon in entire system then 176 ml micro and 352 ml bloom should give tds reading = 1330 at .5 conversion{ whatever that is ???what is difference between .5 and .7 conversion??? conversion of what??????}
better yet what is an exact recipe for hypothetical example b.b.system #1 .
which has capacity of 22 gallons tap water. filled and running 2 weeks then .....add what and how much... thanks so much!!!!
better yet what is an exact recipe for hypothetical example b.b.system #1 .
which has capacity of 22 gallons tap water. filled and running 2 weeks then .....add what and how much... thanks so much!!!!
foliohattu
New member
more or less. for some reason i have problems going full strength at any time, so i go for more dilluted solutions than lucas instructed. i know very well that his normal response to almost any problem is "you're not going full strength". i also know that BT said that nute levels can be way lower in BB. so, i've always gone by feeling and how plants look rather than any single receipe.
but theres lots of threads about lucas and his formula, i suggest that you consult those for more detailed info. eg. your lighting should effect more in your nutes than your light cycle.
for some reason you guys on that side of that pond decided to go with different readings on your meters, ppm that is. when what we measure always is electric conductivity(EC) from which those ppms/tds levels are calculated. sometimes using .7, and sometimes using .5 conversion.
also, when we use litres instead of gallons, i think that that ml/gallon is somewhat misleading. ml/L and whatever-your-unit-is/gallon methinks.
dunno if anyone can give you exact receipe for your system, i suggest that you take something as a rule of thumb and go from there. here's my "formula" that i derived from that above...
i just copy-pasted that from my excel, so it may not be that informative. first i had to change gallons to liters, then there's the conversions from ppm to ec to ml/l. water res is 25 liters(~6 gallons) so start amount according to this calculation are thos mentioned.
1L = 0.26G
ec conversion 700
M – ml/l B – ml/l
1.32 2.64 veg
2.64 5.28 flow
1300 ppm veg
1500 ppm flow
1.86 ec veg
2.14 ec flow
Water res 25 L
start values 33.03 ml micro
66.05 ml bloom
this may not be at all accurate, but i've used this for many years now, and modified that by gut feeling on the fly and it's been working thus far.
so... there you go, as good answer that i'm able to give you
fh
thanks again foliohattu, so that gets it started . then keep eye on ppm?? and use formula for adding more ....oih kay me thinks we got it . just when you add more nutes do you mix in resevoir or in another vessel then add???? just concerned aboout nutrient lockout????? angel4us
foliohattu
New member
no problemo.
this is first round that i'm using anything else than micro+bloom combo. at about second week of flowering i got bottle of missing link from bio-nova and promised to give it a try... i've been using that ever since, and to be honest i don't see much of an effect. i'd like to try top max, cause i've had had good experiences in past, but it being organic and because of my bad experiences with organics i opted for missing link. this: http://www.bionova.nl/SiteEN/En/pages/Detail1EN.asp?ID=392
no flushing. at all. for the last week or two i don't give any nutes. so probably addback is at 100% after a week or two, so nutes ought to be quite dilluted by then. i'm closing in on harvest so might report back how i ended up doing this.. if i only can remember.
fh
this is first round that i'm using anything else than micro+bloom combo. at about second week of flowering i got bottle of missing link from bio-nova and promised to give it a try... i've been using that ever since, and to be honest i don't see much of an effect. i'd like to try top max, cause i've had had good experiences in past, but it being organic and because of my bad experiences with organics i opted for missing link. this: http://www.bionova.nl/SiteEN/En/pages/Detail1EN.asp?ID=392
no flushing. at all. for the last week or two i don't give any nutes. so probably addback is at 100% after a week or two, so nutes ought to be quite dilluted by then. i'm closing in on harvest so might report back how i ended up doing this.. if i only can remember.
fh
I'm working on reading this thread, his grow threads, and that thread huge thread about slime in hydro. I'm sure this is answered somewhere but it's taking awhile to find it.
I know the tutorial says runs it 2 weeks first, but what about adding store bought beneficials? Great white, subculture, etc? EWC tea?
I believe I'm getting slime from my tap water or air, so I wanted to inoculate with something good before that slime gets a chance to get in there. Anyone have experience doing this?
I know the tutorial says runs it 2 weeks first, but what about adding store bought beneficials? Great white, subculture, etc? EWC tea?
I believe I'm getting slime from my tap water or air, so I wanted to inoculate with something good before that slime gets a chance to get in there. Anyone have experience doing this?
kp^
Member
1-2 weeks with tap water to let the Beneficial bacterium build.. Then add nutes to desired PPM... add clones... sit back and Watch em explode!!
GH Triple Five!!
GH Triple Five!!
Hi All! IT Works!!! GH=Micro=8ml gal, GH=Bloom=16ml, Floralicious+ 1/8 tsp per 80oz water, and something extra for minimal stretching of internode spacing= Botanicare Sweet= 10ml per gal....
Mix the Micro 1st, then the Bloom 2nd, and Sweet in a separate container,or rez, or whatever you use for fert mixing, this is your base mix...usually it comes to EC 2.2, which is high, Also, in a separate container, mix Floralicious+ as your 2nd part base mix....now you have your A+B mix.....When mixing a batch for your plants, just pour 50/50
of A & B together, then add 1/4 tsp Carboload powder per gal, and
Calmag+ 1/4 tsp per gal, mix it all up good, take a reading of EC/PH/Temp.....Safe zone( EC 1.4~1.8),(PH-5.8 cubes,6.2~6.5 soil, &
5.5 for coco),(Temp-68~72)...these are good starting mixes..you can
adjust this for your particular situation, and a dose of Maxicrop in the main root area, once every week, this keeps molds at bay!!!!
Also, you will not need GH Sub-Culture,for the drip buckets,they
grow so FAST in these buckets without the microherd....,the SECRET
to rapid growth is OXYGEN......Bubbles
Use a commercial air pump, with a BIG airstone........
Here's a pic of a DJ Short True Blueberry that's 2 yrs old, in a drip bucket, with this fert mix....
GH Triple Five!!
Hi All! IT Works!!! GH=Micro=8ml gal, GH=Bloom=16ml, Floralicious+ 1/8 tsp per 80oz water, and something extra for minimal stretching of internode spacing= Botanicare Sweet= 10ml per gal....Mix the Micro 1st, then the Bloom 2nd, and Sweet in a separate container,or rez, or whatever you use for fert mixing, this is your base mix...usually it comes to EC 2.2, which is high, Also, in a separate container, mix Floralicious+ as your 2nd part base mix....now you have your A+B mix.....When mixing a batch for your plants, just pour 50/50
of A & B together, then add 1/4 tsp Carboload powder per gal, and
Calmag+ 1/4 tsp per gal, mix it all up good, take a reading of EC/PH/Temp.....Safe zone( EC 1.4~1.8),(PH-5.8 cubes,6.2~6.5 soil, &
5.5 for coco),(Temp-68~72)...these are good starting mixes..you can
adjust this for your particular situation, and a dose of Maxicrop in the main root area, once every week, this keeps molds at bay!!!!
Also, you will not need GH Sub-Culture,for the drip buckets,they
grow so FAST in these buckets without the microherd....,the SECRET
to rapid growth is OXYGEN......Bubbles
Use a commercial air pump, with a BIG airstone........Here's a pic of a DJ Short True Blueberry that's 2 yrs old, in a drip bucket, with this fert mix....
Attachments
kp^
Member
gardenbug The 2 week process helps build beneficials which help fight the bad algae.... Keeping water temps chill also helps. If you follwed BigTokes advice in this thread, then you will have a great system where there is no dead spots and the water is moving 24/7.
I would suggest you read BigTokes ~ Basic Water Chemistry for any questions about water.
Good luck, and happy growing! Be sure to post a thread with your grow. I know there are a few BB growers still out there! Few weeks till I can post anything on mine.
