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Best Solution to Root Aphids

bali_man

Member
Just like the bug, there's been an explosion of threads and posts concerning these wicked creatures. I for one have spent months battling them, helping fellow growers, and trying to add as much experience as I've gathered to the forum to help other growers out.

Its really hard going after a creature such as this that has a very limited amount of information. I've spent weeks browsing the net, speaking to folks, and running my own trials with different approaches to see wtf even works and what is a huge waste of time and money.

I for one have advocated using very strong means to eliminate these things. I've probably created and killed over 200 clones so that I can try different chemical approaches to see what, if anything works. I paid attention to different life stages of these things, what worked, what didn't and if they do develop any type of resistance to chemical applications (I group all things applied as a means of pest control as "chemical" since bottom line is, it's chemicals at work, naturally derived, or otherwise).

However I've recently been amazed as I watch the threads regarding this pest explode with more and more growers becoming aware and finding that they're a victim too. At first when I posted about these things I thought it was me and maybe a few other people who were suffering from these things. I never expected so many others to be experiencing the same.

2 days ago, I made an appointment with a friend who sure enough is infested with RA to go help him try to clean house so to speak. I told him not to waste time or money on anything, because I'd be bringing the solution with me. After arriving setting up a game plan and commencing treatment with 15ml/gal of Bayer tree and shrub, as I've found this to be a good initial hit to them. I couldn't believe my eyes that the RA were totally unfaded by the stuff. I mean unfaded to the point were I thought this surely must be some other creature. We macro photographed some, and sure enough they were RA, verified by its features. My ego said fuck that, and I began hitting them with some really harsh chems. We spent nearly 6 hours flooding and re-flooding the 20 plants he had, and I left feeling they weren't all gone. Today he called, and sure enough they're still present.

I'm afraid that this seems like an epidemic of a problem, and god knows how many more people are infested, just unaware at the moment.

Here are my concerns:

-I am fearing that we're going to create a chem resistant super RA.
-Not all fellow growers are mature enough to be dealing with these chems.
-We're releasing way to much synthetic chems into the environment for literally one bug.
-Too many people are using these chems while flowering.
-No one knows what future health issues might arise from pesticide residue consumption.
-Many of the members who have and are wanting to treat these bugs are also medical cannabis patients who might cause themselves more harm by handling/consuming treated plants.
-Many medical cannabis patients donate back to their dispensary, further spreading chemical exposure.

I believe the recent experience where nothing that had previously worked even made a dent, and the fact of reading posts earlier by members asking if 4th week of flowering is okay to be using IMID, or other chems, really made me change my approach to eradicating these RA.

Please remember the regulatory bodies in Gov't do not test any of incendiary properties of these chemicals. I for one know that eating a tomato with Imid residue, is not the same as burning bud that contains Imid residue. I do not know what the burn properties are for imid, because the only crop that I know of that is burnable that Imid is used on is tobacco, and I know tobacco farming is not regulated as other farming.

So what to do?
A lot of the member who originally posted, applied and recommended a simple approach. Cut down, take clones, and start all over. At this moment, I agree 100% with this strategy.

It is the safest (for you and your family[ if applicable]), fastest, and least frustrating approach. I know the frustration first hand of treating and waiting and waiting to see if it really worked, and if it didn't, damn right back to attacking them. I've advocated bringing out the big guns, but now I believe that it is not worth it. In fact it's time to put the guns away and take a more simplistic approach.

The Solution:
In the time that it takes to research, order or buy chems (depending where you live), commence treatment, re-treat, re-treat, inspect, etc, etc...... You can take cuts off your plants, disinfect them, throw them in zip lock bags, throw all the zip locks in rubbermaid shoe box (6 qt size), and put that box in the crisper drawer in your fridge. Cut everything down.
If you have access to an oven great, heat it to 300, and throw all your medium in a large disposable aluminum tray (the kind you use for the turkey), and let it chill in there for a few hours.
If you have access to a dehumidifier run it continuously for about a week. You want humidity levels around 10-25%. (Remember these things live in hydrated environments, no moisture = bye bye for them).
All the mmj patients who obtain their cuttings from mmj clubs. Please pay as much attention to the roots and rooting material as the foliage. Everyone is just looking out for spider mites, and seem to be ignorant of anything else, clubs included.

As with anything in life, your mileage will vary with any chemical approach. So just skip that step, minimize health problems now and down the road, and let us not help mutate this thing into an even more impossible problem.

Good luck, best intentions, and best regards,
-bm
 

BigSwifty

Member
Good post! I agree. One thing that worries me most when buying buds from dispensaries is getting buds from amateur growers who carelessly use pesticides. There's been talk of people receiving moldy buds and other low-quality buds in dispensaries for premium prices.

I do wonder though with some of these systemic pesticides how bad they are for the marijuana smoker. Granted, I grow completely organically and I fight root aphids with nicotine solution, pyrethrum drenches, and nematodes. However, the fact that we're burning the plant material makes me think the imid would be destroyed by the flame/heat. Who knows? I wish they did studies on this kind of stuff. Hopefully soon when the medical scene becomes more legitimized!

In the meantime I'm going to talk to the lab here that tests for THC/CBD/CBN and see if they can expand testing to some of the more commonly used pesticides and mold and such.
 

Fat J

Member
My problem with pyreth drenches is the damage it does to local aquaculture if dumped into storm drains/etc - people who are not responsible with chems taking this approach may be way worse for the eco - and man not be safer anyway (has any1 done a study to analyze the amount of pyreth residue present in a plant that has had root flushes? isnt there still some uptake of the toxin even though it doesnt work systemically.

Nicotine solution - imid is chlorinated nicotine, and has many similar properties, doubt ur nicotine solution is safer, depending on the source of the nic. Though I would like to see what a spectrograph has to say about the residue.

That said, if it is an option, sterilizing and restarting carefully is the best option - but then you may still even have recurrance of the problem. My flavor of RA seems to have responded well to the imid and as such, ill be using it as a preventative measure on all my rooted clones and veg plants 2 weeks into veg. (Being responsible in knowing the dosage to apply and when the latest you can apply it is key in making sure u dont hand out any poison buds) I personally feel safe having 60+ days after treatment to ensure only trace levels of imid remain.

-BUT... not everybody is me, and if you apply way too much of it you may end up with a high level of imid in the end product. I would say to make sure you understand how ANY treatment works and fully grasp the dosing and application before you apply it to a crop that is for consumption.

-One more thing - if your club sells you moldy/mildewy/nasty herb, take it back and demand a new sack of something thats not toxic and if they refuse, dont go back ^.^ its amazing how many clubs will take returns, some go through so much bud they will miss a bit of mold here and there... and then theres just shady ass clubs - dont go to those.
 

dmt

Active member
Veteran
only 2 things will genuinly work from my experience. 1- start all over again, fumigate all area, equipment etc, then seal and blast the space every night for a week or so with 25000 ppm of co2. 2 - blast the room at night with 10000-15000 ppm every 1-2 nights for 2 weeks. ive tried every other thing in the world to treat them, and they dont go away, only slow down. im a big an of prevention not catch up in grow spaces, and these things are a foce to be reconned with, d
 

BigSwifty

Member
My problem with pyreth drenches is the damage it does to local aquaculture if dumped into storm drains/etc - people who are not responsible with chems taking this approach may be way worse for the eco - and man not be safer anyway (has any1 done a study to analyze the amount of pyreth residue present in a plant that has had root flushes? isnt there still some uptake of the toxin even though it doesnt work systemically.

Nicotine solution - imid is chlorinated nicotine, and has many similar properties, doubt ur nicotine solution is safer, depending on the source of the nic. Though I would like to see what a spectrograph has to say about the residue.

That said, if it is an option, sterilizing and restarting carefully is the best option - but then you may still even have recurrance of the problem. My flavor of RA seems to have responded well to the imid and as such, ill be using it as a preventative measure on all my rooted clones and veg plants 2 weeks into veg. (Being responsible in knowing the dosage to apply and when the latest you can apply it is key in making sure u dont hand out any poison buds) I personally feel safe having 60+ days after treatment to ensure only trace levels of imid remain.

-BUT... not everybody is me, and if you apply way too much of it you may end up with a high level of imid in the end product. I would say to make sure you understand how ANY treatment works and fully grasp the dosing and application before you apply it to a crop that is for consumption.

-One more thing - if your club sells you moldy/mildewy/nasty herb, take it back and demand a new sack of something thats not toxic and if they refuse, dont go back ^.^ its amazing how many clubs will take returns, some go through so much bud they will miss a bit of mold here and there... and then theres just shady ass clubs - dont go to those.

Pyrethrins break down very quickly so there's really no need for that study! If you spray drench 3-4 weeks of harvest there's virtually no pyrethrins remaining.

If you feel safe with Imid that's fine. Now that I grow I only get stuff from guys whose growing methods (and chemical arsenal) I know. I don't know how you come up with 60+ days from harvest? From what I've seen Imid has like a 2-year half life. Who knows? I'm sure small amounts of it in the buds is probably harmless anyway. You would probably destroy the chemical molecule as you went to light your buds anyway. And the levels would be so small... Some people just prefer not to use those chemicals though.

My primary club is really sweet.. I think the owner is on ICmag. He's taken back any buds I've ever had a problem with, which has only been once when I got a seeded bud. However, I've gotten some questionable shit when I venture into other places that carry a lot of vendor-purchased bud. I've never gotten mold, but I've heard of it happening. And tons of people smoke that shit without even knowing it!! Not everyone who goes to the clubs knows a lot about pot... they don't all have 30x loupes/scopes. So, that's why I'm pissed about it... because there's uninformed sick people out there smoking mold and totally not aware of it. Not cool....

Have any of you tried botanigard?

I was VERY close to ordering it a week ago. You can get it for like $72 for a quart. The only reason I didn't is because I was in week 4 of flower and I wanted instant knockdown. Botanigard takes a little while to work as the fungus kills the aphids.

I think I will get some though for my next grow. I'm using either Botanigard or predator nematodes as a preventative control. I don't think they're compatible together. I'm trying out nematodes for the remainder of this grow after I killed off most of the aphids with pyrethrum/nicotine - I haven't seen any since the first drench. So, if they work well and the aphids don't return I'll probably stick with them. We will soon see.

I wonder if there is a cheaper way to get the Beauveria bassiana fungus which is in Botanigard. I've seen 1-2 other agricultural products but they were even more expensive than Botanigard. I read somwhere that Botanigard was primarily used for above-ground insects because soil-dwelling insects had developed a natural resistance to it! However, there was a study and Botanigard had a 96% kill rate against root aphids... very high! I think it's posted in the other thread. My guess is that Botanigard would be effective against the root aphids. Even if they had a resistance to it... that resistance would probably be overwhelmed if the aphids are just surrounded by spores everywhere... and they would be from the super high spore concentrations in Botanigard.
 
I have seen several people who claim to have tried everything and given up but have not seen anyone actually saying they tried botanigard yet. I wish they offered a smaller bottle for trial.

I read that university study on root aphids, specifically green peach aphids, as well.

Those pro greenhouse growers found imidacloprid to be ineffective for control but several people here claim it's a magic bullet. I thought 96% control from a naturally derived OMRI listed insecticide would encourage at least one person to try it. I would try it myself but I am beyond broke and unemployed currently. I will definitely try it as a preventive in the future though.

$80 is a lot but then again some clubs actually charge $65 an eighth for medicine.

I think botanigard is safe to use with nematodes since the manufacturer recommends using it with one of their other products which contains nematodes called NemaShield.

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...re_E47&sig=AHIEtbRiGPFrGewN79f_rbzByyKX3IqNMg
 

KyndBud

Member
I think it would be important to figure out the life and mating cycles of these fuggers. Do they mate in the soil? Or do only the flying adults mate and then go back in the soil to lay eggs? I had a case of these things for a few weeks and what I did was set up sticky traps, watered in mosquito dunks and compost tea (for nematodes and bateria) and I also sprayed the top of my soil with GoGnats which is a cedar oil which acts as n insecticide, but most importantly a repellent. I watered the mosquito dunks in every watering and used tea once a week. I sprayed the soil every 3-4 days with the gognats and I don't seem to have them anymore after a 2 week long battle. If the flying adults are what mate, then fighting the adults mainly should slow down and eventually stifle their population right? This is the first time I've ran across them, and hopefully the last. Another question...are the majority of people who get these bugs in a coastal environment? I live 20 minutes from the ocean in Humboldt, California and I was wondering if the majority pf people getting these things are in this general area? Any feedback would be great guys! Thanks!

Peace
KB :joint:
 

bergerbuddy

Canna Coco grower
Veteran
I'll make this simple..

GNATROL WDG... applied at a rate of 40 grams per 10 gallons of water.... hit your plants with this mix.... twice a week for two weeks.. IF YOU ARE IN THE MIDST OF A HELLISH INFESTATION.... then once a week for a few weeks... or heck... once a week forever... and don't worry..

Thats what I did... and after trying TONS OF BULLSHIT... THAT IS WHAT WORKS.. AND IS STILL WORKING...

everyone here is making this way too difficult... try what I said... if it doesn't work.. call me out... i'll be here ;_)
 

Neo 420

Active member
Veteran
I'm in the bay area area and I had RA. I used Sprectacide with Malathoin which killed the RA but my ladies are slowly fading. I decided today to start the final flush even though I am in the middle of week 6. Sprectacide states it remains in the plant for 2 weeks so I should hopefully have the chems out after this week. I am gathering all the information I can on this dangerous critter for prevention and maintenance. I've been growing for 6 or 7 years and just got back in the game and I have never seen this before. I think it is important to note there has been reports of different kinds of RA and treatments for them most likely will depend on the species you have dwelling in the root. We as a community need to gather all the info we can and arrange it on one nice sticky thread. I will be using IMID with my ladies in the 2nd or 3rd week of vegging for prevention but I would also like to get input on using the nemotoads or botaniguard.
 

KyndBud

Member
I'll make this simple..

GNATROL WDG ... twice a week for two weeks... then once a week for a few weeks... or... once a week forever

Thats what I did... THAT IS WHAT WORKS.. AND IS STILL WORKING...

everyone here is making this way too difficult... try what I said... if it doesn't work.. call me out... i'll be here ;_)

I used mosquito dunks and accomplished the same thing. I think any Bacillus Thuringiensis Israelensis source will knock the larvae out as long as it's applied often enough. Also using compost or EWC tea in conjunction with the Bt may help provide a suitable environment for the bacteria to thrive. I'm not really sure if this is the case or not, but it worked for me.

Letting your soil dry out a bit between waterings will also help to slow down their reproduction it seems.

Good luck!

Peace
KB :joint:
 

bali_man

Member
I'll make this simple..

GNATROL WDG... applied at a rate of 40 grams per 10 gallons of water.... hit your plants with this mix.... twice a week for two weeks.. IF YOU ARE IN THE MIDST OF A HELLISH INFESTATION.... then once a week for a few weeks... or heck... once a week forever... and don't worry..

Thats what I did... and after trying TONS OF BULLSHIT... THAT IS WHAT WORKS.. AND IS STILL WORKING...

everyone here is making this way too difficult... try what I said... if it doesn't work.. call me out... i'll be here ;_)

Your methods sound good and I'm sure you've had success however .....

I went through 3 8-packs of mosquito dunk containing Bt, and nothing happened. Then I tried liquid and pellet form of Gnatrol, still nada.

If it was easy as gnatrol to eradicate RA for you, then that convinces me that there must be different subgroups and subspecies of RA. (info about them is scarce to begin with)

I dunno I did succeed in eradicating my RA's but it came at a high cost of work, time invested, and a shit load of chemicals. I helped over a dozen fellow growers as well, most were successful, a few we just couldn't even put a dent in them. Hence why from now on I'm just advocating a clean restart approach.

Plus what you mentioned might be ideal for coco or soil applications, how about for other growing mediums/methods.

....Even Imid, I've observed works way better and yields almost complete eradication in a dwc setup, whereas that is not the case in coco or soil.
 

BigSwifty

Member
Well, the important thing to remember here is that we're dealing with a few different insects most likely. I truly think mine would've been very easily controlled with a little preventative action... however, I knew nothing about these bugs and they reached infestation level before I could do anything... I could only react. I think that's why people are making such a big deal about this bug.... because it's a relatively new problem for us indoor growers. So when it hits us for the first time we're completely unprepared. But if you can go into your grow aware of these fuckers and with a little preventative arsenal up your sleeve, then I don't think you'll have the problem.

Mine were very responsive to pyrethrum drenches. I performed 2 drenches separated by about 3-4 days on all of my plants (even the ones showing no signs), and I haven't seen a flyer in the air since. I've also had to kill 2 previously infested plants and after inspecting the roots I didn't see one bug at all!! NOTE: My 2 white widows herm'd big time throwing nanners out at every cola... not sure what caused this... all other plants seemed to respond to treatment OK even the Sour D.

I'll be inoculating with nematodes this weekend... I believe you're supposed to wait one week after applying any pesticides before you introduce nematodes.

I'm also ordering some pyganic and botanigard for next round. Thank god for my Amazon card!! As I'm also broke and unemployed right now... not the smartest time to quit my job.
 

BigSwifty

Member
I have seen several people who claim to have tried everything and given up but have not seen anyone actually saying they tried botanigard yet. I wish they offered a smaller bottle for trial.

I read that university study on root aphids, specifically green peach aphids, as well.

Those pro greenhouse growers found imidacloprid to be ineffective for control but several people here claim it's a magic bullet. I thought 96% control from a naturally derived OMRI listed insecticide would encourage at least one person to try it. I would try it myself but I am beyond broke and unemployed currently. I will definitely try it as a preventive in the future though.

$80 is a lot but then again some clubs actually charge $65 an eighth for medicine.

I think botanigard is safe to use with nematodes since the manufacturer recommends using it with one of their other products which contains nematodes called NemaShield.

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...re_E47&sig=AHIEtbRiGPFrGewN79f_rbzByyKX3IqNMg

Hey LNO! Thanks for the link. Any info on Botanigard is appreciated because it's hard to find. I think that Botanigard is used primarily as a foliage spray.... and the NemaShield is used to inoculate the soil!!

I wish I could find the one page I was viewing about a week back. It was stating how Botanigard was primarily used above the soil on folair-dwelling insects... and it's not as effective at soil-dwelling insects. This is because the soil dwelling insects have developed a resistance to the fungus over time because it exists naturally in the soil. However, I'm sure it's still somewhat effective on soil-dwelling insects (as evidenced by the study showing the 96% mortality rate).

We really need some feedback on this stuff!!
 

MedUser420

Active member
I used botanigard and organica's k+ neem soil drenches/sprays. You are supposed to spray the botanigard on top of the coco/soil and then water it in. I also check the roots regularly and throw out any plants that seem to have RA. I haven't seen a RA in several months. This link was helpful http://gpnmag.com/articles/some.pdf
 

dmt

Active member
Veteran
what i saw was in nft hydro, and it was madness, no soil means more freedom, d
 

MjBuddah

New member
We need to use Azatrol. It is OMRI approved, or organic in other words. It is a molting inhibitor. It kills them by acting as an anti-feedant and ends the life cycle of pests. Pests dont build up a resistance to it. USE AZATROL! Chemistry without chemicals. I had these fuckers and 2 treatments wiped em out in like 2 days. Although, all of the damage the RA DID IS NOW coming up as blotches on my plants, but also my be a phototoxic reaction to the Azatrol, which happens when its applied as a Foilar spay and put under intense light. I dont know if its the same thing when you use it as a systemic....So itmight have been a combination of the RA and azatrol that caused the blotches. Any ideas?
 

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