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Any advice on making a hash box?

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
Well i just bought some metal screen for sifting soil. 100 mesh(.0029) and 200 mesh like 120 mic(.0047).

I have left over and would like to make my own dry sift box and give the cheap small one away to a friend. What is the easiest way to make this, i'm guesssing wood?

I was thinking about using small Rubbermaid containers but i would just like to know if theres an easier better way.
 

Vorsprung

Active member
you could find a wood box and use a window screen frame kit that lets you cut the frame to size (to fit the box). Then you could use wood dowels to build post(s) to raise and or separate the screens.
 

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
That sounds like a good idea. I was thinking about just sandwiching the screen in between and using liquid nails or something similar to attach it.

My cheap box at the moment has magnets and i would like to use the same thing in my box. Also what do you guys use as a bottom piece, glass?
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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The sieving screen will work best if kept taunt. I usually make those out of silk screen, and make the frame so I can roll the screen into place with a spline. You can buy those screens already made in an art store where they are used for silk screening fabric.

I use stainless in harvest boxes for manicuring, where tauntness is less important. I use double the number of screws when I do so.

Here is a picture of a nesting frame that I built from mahogany that will accept either silk screen or stainless and which you can cut out of a 3/4" X 1 1/2" S4S stick. You can increase that height if you wish.

The stainless doesn't use the spline, but you can get it reasonably taunt if you start with new unwrinkled screen and hold it taunt with stretching pliers while screwing it down with your other two hands, after which you carefully trim off the excess you were holding on to with a razor knife.

The corners are splined for reinforcement.

I've also included a dimensioned Auto Cad of the above frame profiles.

GW
 
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Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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I forgot to mention, you can not only nest them, but can add a top and bottom for a complete system.
 

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
Thanks Gray,

I'm gonna use your ideas to build a box. I'll leave my steel screens for sifting soil and maybe just keep the top one as steel. Nice looking work you got going.
 
C

Chamba

yo g, dont taunt yer screens, they might get mad at ya and sift ya all up!

I want to smoke whatever HMK is smoking...but just a little less of it
 
C

Chamba

yeah, wood is the easiest to work with...a simple way is to use an existing box, either an old humidor, cigar box or other type of box then measure about an inch up from the bottom of the box, mark a pencil line around the box and cut it.

Super glue is idea for synthetic (nylon) meshes, staples are good for metal (S/S) meshes, so is a combo of staples and some type of glue that works with metal, eg silicon. Fix the mesh to the bottom of the top part of the box and the bottom section is your catchment tray, the interior of the tray can be fitted with a sheet of glass cut to size, but it's not crucial as dry resin doesn't stick to smooth wood like it does to plastic.

Well i just bought some metal screen for sifting soil. 100 mesh(.0029) and 200 mesh like 120 mic(.0047).

100 mesh (or 100 lines per inch mesh) would have mesh openings of approximately 150 micron...this good for rolling jays and packing bowls over, as well as for trimming.

110 ~ 135 LPI mesh is better for active single screen dry sifting.

You mentioned you also have 200 LPI mesh, this is usually around 65 ~ 75 micron depending on the thread thickness, not 120 micron...was that a typo?
 
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Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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yeah, wood is the easiest to work with...a simple way is to use an existing box, either an old humidor, cigar box or other type of box then measure about an inch up from the bottom of the box, mark a pencil line around the box and cut it.

Super glue is idea for synthetic (nylon) meshes, staples are good for metal (S/S) meshes, so is a combo of staples and some type of glue that works with metal, eg silicon. Fix the mesh to the bottom of the top part of the box and the bottom section is your catchment tray, the interior of the tray can be fitted with a sheet of glass cut to size, but it's not crucial as dry resin doesn't stick to smooth wood like it does to plastic.

Well i just bought some metal screen for sifting soil. 100 mesh(.0029) and 200 mesh like 120 mic(.0047).

100 mesh (or 100 lines per inch mesh) would have mesh openings of approximately 150 micron...this good for rolling jays and packing bowls over, as well as for trimming.

110 ~ 135 LPI mesh is better for active single screen dry sifting.

You mentioned you also have 200 LPI mesh, this is usually around 65 ~ 75 micron depending on the thread thickness, not 120 micron...was that a typo?

Chambra makes a good point on pore size and thread counts running opposite each other. As the threads go up, the hole size goes down.

Different manufacturers also use different thread size, which changes the pore size with the same thread count.

If the supplier can't give you the exact pore size, you can calculate it as follows:

Thread count or mesh X thread size equals the amount of space not open.

One (1) minus TC X TS equals the amount of space open.

There will be one less opening than thread count. Open space divided by thread or mesh count minus one, will be the pore size.

Some manufacturers also provide thread count information in metric, in which case they directly show micron opening size.

If you are working with English measurements, divide pore size in inches by one meter X 10-6, or .00003937, and it will give you microns.

One other point, and that is that you change the pore size some when you stretch it.

GW
 

mayan

Atavist
Veteran
Just a suggestions, no matter what your design, make sure that the seams connecting the screen to the frame are TIGHT. You don't want loose material to be able to into the seam...you'll lose trichs that way and the veg matter that you screen out could also get into the seam and end up contaminating the finer material down below.

Good luck! Love that sift!
 

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
oops... i had those numbers backwards. I meant to write that my 100mesh is arond 120 after looking at its opening size. Sorry guys to much sativa gets your head in some funny places. Thanks for all the help so far i really want to use this cigar box i have so i guess thats a good idea. Some good hints here though. I think these two screens should work good the top one will be like said, for rolling joints and braking bud up, than the one underneath for more a filter. I know its not optimal i'm just working with what i have.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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oops i guess im dyslexic i had those numbers backwards. I meant to write that my 100mesh is arond 120 after looking at its opening size. Sorry guys to much sativa gets your head in some funny places. Thanks for all the help so far i really want to use this cigar box i have so i guess thats a good idea. Some good hints here though. I think these two screens should work good the top one will be like said, for rolling joints and braking bud up, than the one underneath for more a filter. I know its not optimal i'm just working with what i have.

If it works it isn't stupid.

Glad to see you including the gusto of discovery and adventure in your life.

Have fun!

GW
 
G

Green Supreme

Now if I had made the same comment in Kuts thread hmmmm. Anyways saw a guy make one with lego once can't remember how many screeens wer in his box. Good luck. Peace GS
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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Now if I had made the same comment in Kuts thread hmmmm. Anyways saw a guy make one with lego once can't remember how many screeens wer in his box. Good luck. Peace GS

A wide mouth fruit jar and panty hose held by the ring, can work in a pinch. If it works, it ain't stupid!

How many other impromptu shakers designs out there?

GW
 

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
A wide mouth fruit jar and panty hose held by the ring, can work in a pinch. If it works, it ain't stupid!

How many other impromptu shakers designs out there?

GW


I agree, mainly because right now my cheap 12 dollar box makes the nicest hash around here in a couple seconds! But thats also because we dont get hash and not enough plants to make loads of it. I like being able to shake it for a couple seconds and than roll it into a ball by the heat of my fingers.

I recently found out better ways to make dry sift by sticking around here and seeing the various methods. I'm going to use a larger box than necessary depth wise just in case i get more screens in the future. When i start building it i'll post pic's if its alright.
 
C

Chamba

GW - a wide mouth jar works really well, the wider mouthed, the better....and to make it more efficient, after the mesh is held in place over the jar opening with an elastic band then fit (jam) the mouth of the jar into a slightly larger diameter jar or container, shake it like you are making a cocktail to catch the resin that passes through the mesh. Another way would be to fix a very fine mesh, paper bag, plastic bag or cup etc over the jar's opening to catch the resin as it passes through the mesh.

Another way I saw here a few years ago was to neatly cut the centers out of two metal lids, glue the two lids together back to back, place the mesh over one jar opening, screw on the lid(s). 1/4 fill that jar with ground up bud, screw the other jar onto the glued together lids, freeze for awhile then shake for a few minutes.

there's lots of ways to DIY!
 

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
Well i'm picking up a 35mic, 75mic and 120 mic silk screen also. I'll leave the steel screen for my soil sifting. I'll also use the 100 mesh(150 micron- i figured it out finally) steel screen for the top screen of the box.. I'm getting really excited about this and i'll probably make one for a friend also. I'm going to use an idea similar to Gray just smaller, and hopefully i can add magnets to it to keep it shut. That way i can use it like a shaker,

I do like the idea about mason jars except they dont provide a big enough surface that i'd like to have. Thanks for all your help so far guys, I just wanted a good general idea before i attempt something, just end up making mistakes.I just need to find a good way to make sure theres nospace between the box and screen. I'm going to use a cigar box, hopefully i can use all four screens in it with room to hold bud. If it doesn't work with all of the screens i'll just make another box. The only problem i see is the wood isnt that thick for me to staple on to.

I think these combination of screen i have should give a good product if i make a good box. Even though the 35 seems rather small.
 
C

Chamba

Big......another easy way to make screen frames for dry sifting is to use picture frames ...if they are too thin then double them up.

stretch and tack the nylon mesh over the frame as evenly taut as you are able then carefully finely dribble Superglue on the mesh so it soaks through to the frame..after about ten minutes remove the tacks, then trim the overhanging mesh with a sharp blade
 

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