Anybody run a big light thru an extension cord?

[mjr99]

Planning on stringing a 25ft 10/3 gauge extension cord though my attic an into my bedroom. Only gonna run 1- 600w 12/12 from a 20 amp circuit. Anyone think its a bad idea?

$60 outdoor rated cord so i think ill be alright. Kinda worried about attic heat (130F to 10f fluc range) and long term use.

 

[PharmaCan]

Why don't you just buy a length of 12-2 Romex and hardwire both ends? Not only would the Romex route be cheaper, unless you are buying a UL approved cord that is rated for the temperature fluctuations you stated, you really don't know what you're getting. Romex is made for that kind of environment. Besides, extension cords really aren't advisable for permanent, long-term use.

PC

 

[renz]

Romex (all types?) is solid core, I'm pretty sure.

It'll break if moved in the same spot repeatedly. With solid core it's very common to get very clean hairline breaks that still conduct electricity fine, but will eventually oxidize or the fracture will get bigger, creating tiny spark gaps which will lead to a fire.

The extension cord itself is fine for high current, but the terminals and prongs on the plugs and outlets can become a problem. The same issue (worn or oxidized connections) will create hot spots at high current which can eventually melt outlet and plug assemblies and eventually cause shorts and fires.

If you can somehow use something like crimp on ring terminals (wont fall off if screw gets loose like spade terminals) and screwdown clamps instead of plugs on the extension cable, it will probably work as a better long term solution, however you need to get the proper tool to crimp the terminals on, DO NOT SOLDER THEM, and tug on them HARD to make sure they are crimped on right.

And always use some sort of strain relief method to keep the ends of the cables and the terminals from being pulled if the cable accidentally gets pulled.

If you don't feel confident about doing this stuff, or you have no idea what I just said, get someone else to do it for you. You'll die.

 

[mjr99]

But cant the same be said for the ballast terminals and prongs? Are you just basically saying to make sure all my connections are connected properly? That would make sense.

 

[simon]

Planning on stringing a 25ft 10/3 gauge extension cord though my attic an into my bedroom. Only gonna run 1- 600w 12/12 from a 20 amp circuit. Anyone think its a bad idea?

$60 outdoor rated cord so i think ill be alright. Kinda worried about attic heat (130F to 10f fluc range) and long term use.

I've run a similar extension cord on a 600HPS. You'll be fine.

Simon

 

[B. Friendly]

I have burned 2 15' cords between a bulb and ballast so if they are not properly rated beware. The cords will burn ie fire HAZARD.

 

[simon]

I have burned 2 15' cords between a bulb and ballast so if they are not properly rated beware. The cords will burn ie fire HAZARD.

<grin> He has a 25ft 10/3 cord. It's plenty big.

Simon

 

[Broken Gizzard]

Whoa...

Whoa...

...let's not be frightened or intimidated by this stuff. You can do it safely. I was a mechanical contractor for 25 years, licensed in HVAC (heating/ventilation/air conditioning) and cross-licensed in structural welding, electrical (hi & lo voltage incl 3-phase), plumbing and insulation...so I know a little about this.

The scary post about solid core wire is correct...don't use it if you're going to be moving it around. Just get 'stranded' wire.

Connections: Again...the scary post is right. If you make bad connections, scary things will happen and they can be life-changing. Never lose your respect for that.
The only way to make a connection is PROPERLY. There are different methods for different types and sizes of wire. Use the PROPER method for the wire you are using and you will have no problems.

Sizing: I have always built my own extension cords and will continue to do so. There is no reason you can't as well. There are plenty of resources on the web you can consult regarding the proper type of insulator around the wire...I like the rubber-coated. It's flexible, water resistant and UV protected.
To determine your wire size, you need to know the amps you are going to 'draw' (it will be on the tag of any piece of equipment you buy)...and the length you need the wire to be. Just be careful to pay very close attention to the instructions and notes contained with whatever web-based chart you use to determine wire size. There are many variables, (like temp, voltage drop etc) that are compensated for in most standard situations. Make sure you are within the limits and you will be fine.

If you really want to make sure you are in full compliance from a regulatory standpoint...buy a copy of the NEC (national electrical code). It will tell you everything your electrician has access to, but be warned...it is not a "how-to"manual...and there is no substitute for skill and experience.
I can sleep at night because I know when we were in business, we did everything by the book...So there you go...that is your recipe for 'rest' when you do electrical work, or any work where life and property may be placed at risk because of your actions.

Do it by the book...do it well...and sleep well. Simple.

 

[PharmaCan]

ROFL - Those commenting on Romex fracturing obviously aren't familiar with the concept of "Hardwiring". When something is hardwired in a structure, as a rule, you don't move it. IDK - maybe some people like to climb up in their attics and fiddle with their wires. Personally, that's not my cup of tea.

But several posters hit the nail on the head. The problem isn't with your wire it's with your connections. They should be hard wired and, if you are going to hard wire the ends, why not use wire that is made for what you are doing and costs less than what you are proposing?

Just my two cents. You can and will do what you want. If you're bound and determined to use an extension cord, I'm sure that you'll find plenty of people willing to tell you that it's just fine.

PC

 

[simon]

If you're bound and determined to use an extension cord, I'm sure that you'll find plenty of people willing to tell you that it's just fine.

The OP will be running ~7 amps (max) on a 10 gauge cord, as opposed to 12 gauge Romex per your suggestion. It is well within the safety margin of the wire, putting it mildly. Before I ran 100amp service into the room, I used a 10awg cords with 600HPS' for a few years. Not even a hint of a problem.

Simon

 

[pushlimits]

DON'T RUN ROMEX, TO REPLACE A EXTENSION CORD!!!! Romex is a wire that is rated for use in enclosed places ONLY! It is solid and Non-flexible. I am an Electrician, been a journeyman for 6 years (10 years total), I have personally seen a fire caused by a man who hardwired male and female cord ends to romex and used it as an extension cord. He was a carpenter and had been using it only for a couple of months, one day he had it pluged into his miter saw and the cord that was sitting over a rug caught on fire! The insurance company Wouldn't cover the damage saying it was not a "UL" approved cord. Broken Gizzard is right.
P.S. hardwiring to an electrician means wiring a device without a break in the circuit.

 

[PharmaCan]

DON'T RUN ROMEX, TO REPLACE A EXTENSION CORD!!!!
P.S. hardwiring to an electrician means wiring a device without a break in the circuit.

Does anyone even read the OP's question on these threads or does everyone feel the need to just immediately whip it out to see whose is bigger?

As I read it the OP wants to permanently install a light circuit, not run an extension cord for temporary use. I can't see where the OP said anything about wanting to use the cord in an application where it will be moved.

As far as hard wiring is concerned, by your definition then a ceiling light with a wall switch would not be hardwired because the switch would be capable of breaking the circuit. Get a life and quit trying to play word games with a limited vocabulary.

Regardless, no qualified electrician would recommend an extension cord for anything other than a temporary use! It just ain't kosher!

PC

 

[cancollector]

sorta ashamed to say but Ive ran 8k on extension cords, also ran 2 dehus , 2 a/c's, and fans on them the same run. LOL, wouldnt want to do it again but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do....

 

[renz]

Does anyone even read the OP's question on these threads or does everyone feel the need to just immediately whip it out to see whose is bigger?

As I read it the OP wants to permanently install a light circuit, not run an extension cord for temporary use. I can't see where the OP said anything about wanting to use the cord in an application where it will be moved.

Yeah he says through the attic into the bedroom, says its for running a light, doesn't mention any sort of enclosures or boxes, mentions he wants to use an extension cord...

Considering the nature of this forum, I think the safe thing to do would be to assume it's for a temp situation. He didn't say anywhere it wasn't going to be moved.

Since he mentioned temp side by side with long term use, I was thinking long term in a thermal failure sense which could be anywhere from a few hours to a week.

 

[renz]

But cant the same be said for the ballast terminals and prongs? Are you just basically saying to make sure all my connections are connected properly? That would make sense.

Ballast cables are usually IEC cables or similar; they tend to be higher quality, the prongs are thick and made of corrosion resistant material.

Old or cheap outlets can have terminals that don't grab the prongs very well, cheap plugs will be made kind of thin, they oxidize, sometimes they will wear away wires inside and melt internally until they short.

It's usually a bad idea to use anything that looks old or worn out for high current.