Is it safe to use floramite on day 25 of flowering. Have decent size garden found mites on a few of the plants. Plan is to drop a fogger or 2 in the room. Then treat with einstien oil. Then in a few days when the flora mite comes I will treat all plants withh that to. I need to get rid of or hold them off until flowering. I won't harvest early and will a dual arc bulb I have to help degrade the floramite. I am running in a tight space with alot of plants and light. I have AC and a dehumidifier. What enviromental conditions are best to slow down the mites? Any and all help is appreciated. I am growing medicine for my patients so I need to do what is best for them. They need there medicine so I need to kill the bugs. Please help Thanks.
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Can I use floramite on Day 25 Flower?
- Thread starter mtn121
- Start date
I would be surprised if anyone here said you should use floramite that late into flowering. Honestly, you probably could with residuals around 21 days, however, i would seriously recommend using Azamax (or like product) with a wetting agent.
This will eliminate your need for the fogger, the einstein oil and any other product. You can spray up until day of harvest and I believe it works better then Floramite at this stage. I had a serious infestation pop up on me when i vacationed this winter and it saved my ass. The bottle is like $80 but much more effective then foggers. Good luck.
This will eliminate your need for the fogger, the einstein oil and any other product. You can spray up until day of harvest and I believe it works better then Floramite at this stage. I had a serious infestation pop up on me when i vacationed this winter and it saved my ass. The bottle is like $80 but much more effective then foggers. Good luck.
I agree, azamax is a good product, but did you buy a huge bottle or something? I got my bottle for 19.99 and it dilutes into over 256 oz of foliar spray.
OC80,
I bought the larger bottle. I flower 72 plants and the small bottle would not have cut it.
mtn121,
Regardless if you use floramite or azamax you are going to need to treat regularly until you chop. Floramite only works if you get every single egg in the entire room which usually requires a dunk. Floramite also builds up a supermite that becomes resistant to most treatments. Mites can not build up a tollerance to Azamax. I dont know the scientific/biological reason other then ive seen it first hand.
The regiment i used was. 3/4 oz of Azamax to a one liter spray bottle with 6-10 drops of a wetting agent. The water i used for the bottle was RO with a PH of 5.6 which is close to the optimal level you supposedly want for miticides (thats what the GH people say). For the first week i sprayed every 3 days and once every 5-7 days there after. You definetly need to keep up with the spraying no matter what. One egg quickly turns into 1000. But you wont need to spray every 3 days for 45 days.
I bought the larger bottle. I flower 72 plants and the small bottle would not have cut it.
mtn121,
Regardless if you use floramite or azamax you are going to need to treat regularly until you chop. Floramite only works if you get every single egg in the entire room which usually requires a dunk. Floramite also builds up a supermite that becomes resistant to most treatments. Mites can not build up a tollerance to Azamax. I dont know the scientific/biological reason other then ive seen it first hand.
The regiment i used was. 3/4 oz of Azamax to a one liter spray bottle with 6-10 drops of a wetting agent. The water i used for the bottle was RO with a PH of 5.6 which is close to the optimal level you supposedly want for miticides (thats what the GH people say). For the first week i sprayed every 3 days and once every 5-7 days there after. You definetly need to keep up with the spraying no matter what. One egg quickly turns into 1000. But you wont need to spray every 3 days for 45 days.
M
mexilandrace
mites sure as heck do get resistant to azamax.
I use DM Saturator(Penetrator) with FLoramite to make it into a systemic product, it's an ovacide (unlike any other miticide out there) and I use up to week 5 of flower , each application last about 3 weeks at 1.2ml/gallon. THat way the last few weeks they are protected but should be washed out before chop.
Lazy, Ghostly, Grape thanks for the support I was looking for.
LAZYMAN- Do you know for sure that the floramite kills the eggs? Lot of peeps say nothing can kill the eggs. I will add the penetrator. What rate do u mix the penetrator at.Have you used this combo around week 5 with a mite population or do u do it as a preventive maintenance? If so did it take them out completely. Have you ever noticed any flavor or smell issues with the end product.
LAZYMAN- Do you know for sure that the floramite kills the eggs? Lot of peeps say nothing can kill the eggs. I will add the penetrator. What rate do u mix the penetrator at.Have you used this combo around week 5 with a mite population or do u do it as a preventive maintenance? If so did it take them out completely. Have you ever noticed any flavor or smell issues with the end product.
yeah floramites the shit. but i wouldnt use it passed week 2 at the latest. its very residual, an i recommend 60 days for it to be completely gone.
edit: mites like humid warm temps. due the opposite an they'll slow down alot. dry an cold.. : )
edit: mites like humid warm temps. due the opposite an they'll slow down alot. dry an cold.. : )
ghostly
Member
things to weigh
things to weigh
this info is correct. spot on
i innoculate my babies at about 2 weeks (they are already 6" clones when i get em) then again just before flowering and i never see them. ive had em bad. (i do the same with sulfer burner, usually a week later. i try never to spray anything once hair have formed but there is the exception.
i once had a bad mite infestation during week 2-3, it would have killed the entire crop. i hit em with the avid, (light) and within a week the mites were gone and green returned to the leaves, it finished with out a hitch. I let it go a bit extra to give it time to flush the toxins, and i also used a wash called "that stuff"- out of oregon which is a great product. you can use it any time, its 99.9% ionized water that has gone through some kind of process that imprints the water and it stuns the mites enough to get through a crop without using anything like avid or azamax (good too but not avid good) (i also fushed extra, hydro set up)
cold temps and humidity also slow mite breeding.
dont fogg with plants in a room, IMO its bad, ive killed crops that way.i only fog inbetween crops to sanatize the room.
if you have a sealed room and co2, you can kill bug, by eleating the co2 to 10,000ppm for 2 hours, do it every other day for 3 days. done. becareful though, 10,000ppm and up will kill you too.
even 5k is dangerous.
(i believe its ok to use sulfer for powdery mildew up to 2 weeks before harvest, but if you prevent it, you never have to do that. less stress equalls better crop and yeild, stress will stunt plants quick!)
things to weigh
this info is correct. spot on
i innoculate my babies at about 2 weeks (they are already 6" clones when i get em) then again just before flowering and i never see them. ive had em bad. (i do the same with sulfer burner, usually a week later. i try never to spray anything once hair have formed but there is the exception.
i once had a bad mite infestation during week 2-3, it would have killed the entire crop. i hit em with the avid, (light) and within a week the mites were gone and green returned to the leaves, it finished with out a hitch. I let it go a bit extra to give it time to flush the toxins, and i also used a wash called "that stuff"- out of oregon which is a great product. you can use it any time, its 99.9% ionized water that has gone through some kind of process that imprints the water and it stuns the mites enough to get through a crop without using anything like avid or azamax (good too but not avid good) (i also fushed extra, hydro set up)
cold temps and humidity also slow mite breeding.
dont fogg with plants in a room, IMO its bad, ive killed crops that way.i only fog inbetween crops to sanatize the room.
if you have a sealed room and co2, you can kill bug, by eleating the co2 to 10,000ppm for 2 hours, do it every other day for 3 days. done. becareful though, 10,000ppm and up will kill you too.
even 5k is dangerous.
(i believe its ok to use sulfer for powdery mildew up to 2 weeks before harvest, but if you prevent it, you never have to do that. less stress equalls better crop and yeild, stress will stunt plants quick!)
Yeah Floramite is the only ovacide out there that kills mite eggs, google "Floramite Ovacide" for more info. I use Penetrator/Saturator at 60ml per gallon, this also allows you to spray with lights on, the light helps it work better according to DM, don't use it in the dark!
I've used it at week 5 on an 8-9 week strain, it takes about 3 weeks to stop working (according to the mite populations!) so i figure if its gone enough that they can't taste it 3 weeks later neither will i. Never had any problems with the finished product, everything comes out normal, just no mites!
According to the Dahlia.org floramite is unreliable as a ovicide. Hexygon is what the say the most effective ovicide is. I don't know if there right just trying to sort through the info I can find out there. Hexygon is to toxic for my application. They say floramite has ovicidal properties.
