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Outdoor pěstování - tipy, triky, zkušenosti

radvancan

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
A Google Earth pri hľadaní možných miestečok :D

Tak, tak ...este ze je okolie BB na Google earth zmapovane lepe jak ostatni casti svk...teda da se lepsie priblizit , lepsie se tak hlada a urcuje sa kde su kroviska o velkych rozmerov... :D:D
 

Gazda

Member
Tak, tak ...este ze je okolie BB na Google earth zmapovane lepe jak ostatni casti svk...teda da se lepsie priblizit , lepsie se tak hlada a urcuje sa kde su kroviska o velkych rozmerov... :D:D

ja myslim ze je vsade na SVK rovnake rozlisenie, ale ked tak na to prave pozeram tak sa mi vidi ze tu v okoli PN to mame ostrejsie ako tam u vas ;)
v kazdom pripade je to skvely pomocnik.

to berrea: ja by som asi travu pestovanu na vajgloch nefajcil. .jednak mi vajgle strasne smrdia a ten pach nemozem vystat. za druhe zopar vajglov vyluhovanych v malom pive, ci inom napoji je pre cloveka vysoko toxicky az smrtelny napoj a to nielen kvoli obsahu nikotinu.[smrtelna davku nikotinu je 60mg, viete kolko ho ma jedna cigareta?] a nakoniec a to co ma najviac odpudzuje je obsah radonu a tazkych kovov z pouzivanych chemickych hnojiv, ktore sa vo vacsej miere zachytavaju prave vo vajgly... a nasledne ich vstrebe tvoja rastlina.
ja si sem-tam tiez dam sulanu alebo zabafkam z fajky ako gandalf tak niesom ziaden anti-tabakovy puritan, ale myslim ze pridavanie vajglov do pody je pre kvalitu(nie kvantitu) vysledneho produktu kontraproduktivne. vzdy sa snazim dat mojim rastlinam to najlepsie a ak vajgle naozaj zlepsia fyzikalne vlastnosti substratu radsej by som im kupil balicek novych filtrov.

mier s vami
G
 
Growing in Great Outdoors

Spring is here and it is time to think about your future... your future stash of course. If you haven't grown outdoors yet, you should try it. An outdoor grow operation can range from a few plants in the park, slightly off the beaten path, to thousands of plants well off the beaten path. Anything is possible because the word "grower" encompasses all kinds of different people. Most of us grow for stash, some of us for cash.

By Breeder Steve of the Spice of Life Seed Co.

Well-Grown Organic Outdoor

Various systems and techniques are available indoors and out, depending on the wants and needs of the grower. For outdoor planting I especially stress no chemicals! The best bud you will ever have is well-grown organic outdoor, trust me.
In these northern latitudes it is tough to grow many fine cannabis strains outdoors, as sometimes the fall weather is a little too harsh on nearly ripe buds, creating disasters for cash-croppers and disappointment for the personal grower. It is therefore logical to try out a number of different strains. Besides, everybody likes a variety of flavours. A lot of one bud can get dull, even if it is "da best."
Don't get discouraged if your dream harvest doesn't materialize on your first attempt, every successful grower has had his or her share of disappointments from time to time. Work on improving your technique, and trying to minimize possible impediments to your plants' general well-being.

Herb Pirates

The number one problem planting outdoors in BC is herb-pirates who actively seek and steal the fruits of your labour. These are not the peace officers that serve and protect us, but genuine thieves. They are dealt with harshly when caught and rightly so.
I heard of one poacher that got caught by angry growers in their large plantation on Vancouver Island. They had probably invested a year to prepare the large crop and some thief came with bags. This was clearly a premeditated larceny, not a lost hiker taking a few flowers from a lovely plant. The thief was tied to a chair in a curing shack and forced to single-handedly manicure the entire harvest for two weeks. The growers kept masks on and freed him later.
He was a very lucky fellow, as many would not be so lenient. Don't even think about ripping off somebody else's creation, just plant your own. If you do get burned once in a while, be comforted that you still added a little pot to the world, probably to people that could use more peaceful feelings of understanding. Keep planting!

The Time is Now


If you haven't started yet the time is now to begin your outdoor patch indoors. If you can't start with reputable clones from a reliable friend then you can find quality seeds at any "complete" cannabis store. Start them as soon as possible so that by the time you take them outdoors they have already been "sexed" (males removed) and grown as large as planting logistics will allow.
Fluorescents provide adequate light for a few crowded trays of clones to stretch and stiffen, before they are transplanted into little containers that are light and transportable, such as little plastic pots, modified pop bottles, milk cartons, beer glasses and (yuck!) styrofoam cups. Whatever little pots you choose just make sure that they have adequate drainage holes. When I take that special spring camping trip I like my babies to be at least eighteen inches with a sturdy stem.
Plants that are started indoors must be hardened off for a few days in partial shade before being planted in a location that is fully exposed to the Sun. The Sun is stronger than any halide or sodium bulb and a lot less expensive. We'd be fools not to use it.
Here's the deal: the spring equinox is March 21, and from that time onward the days lengthen until summer solstice June 21, which is the longest day of the year. From then on the days get shorter until the fall equinox, you get the picture. When the daylight is long cannabis grows vegetatively, expanding its dimensions with leaves and stems. As the days get shorter the plants sense the change of the seasons and prepare to make seed, by flowering. In the absence of pollen from a male cannabis plant the female's flowers will be seedless; the choice of growers and smokers everywhere, if it is grown and cured well.

A Good Site


The most important aspect of planting outdoors is carefully choosing a good location. To get full exposure to the Sun in Canada your garden is best on a hillside facing South. You should have access to fresh water nearby. Some travel far, some plant close to home; a bit of both couldn't hurt. Remember what they say about eggs and baskets, it applies to guerrilla patches as well.
I should tell you to hide it well by planting in areas that easily camouflage your plants, such as near sumachs and cedars or a plethora of other foliage. But I'm getting old, lazy and righteously indignant about having to plant in secrecy. I've shamelessly grown forty plants on my balcony in Vancouver, completely open for all the world to see. They were easily visible from the busy street below, and you could smell their delicious fragrance on the sidewalk.
I grew over a hundred different plants in my back yard, just to see the different varieties. None of it was sold, it was all admired and shared. Several times a whirlybird would hover over my back yard and its occupants would watch me watering my plants. I routinely smiled, waved and gave them the finger. I am ready and willing to confront anyone that attempts to interfere with my basic human right to access any part of creation I can imagine. If you can grow it, it belongs to you.

Grow Crafty


If you're not as ornery as me then you should grow as craftily as you can manage. Some people are hanging plants in trees, and that old standby the cornfield is still popular, however it is probably the first place the spy planes check. Late planting is a great idea; the plants seem to mature earlier, yet are much smaller and harder to detect.
I had the pleasure of smoking from a record harvest of well grown Northern Lights #2. Three growers produced clones of an excellent specimen, approached a soya bean farmer they knew and told him that they would give him $10,000 to let them plant a bunch of their little plants in July in his beans so that they wouldn't get too big. After all, the searchers are looking for big Christmas trees in the cornfield, not two foot two ouncers. Thousands of plants in an unassuming bean field netted these good old boys seven hundred pounds!
They gave the old farmer another ten grand in the fall. It's been eight years and they are still on holidays. Dreams do come true, so take care of your ganja and it will take care of you.

Grow Organic


Regardless if you are growing a lot or a little you want it to be the best that it can be. Stick to a natural fertilizer program. Stay away from slow-release chemicals and other petro-trash products. Tasty bud is nutritious and delicious when without the harsh overtones of excess fertilizer.
Slow-release chemical compounds are cheaper and easier to use on large scale gardens, and I assure you they're a lot lighter than enormous quantities of compost. But chemical shortcuts are the devil's work. Real farming is hard work, but oh, so much more satisfying. The difference is astounding. Organic bud has more character, a bevy of flavours and earthy tones that are lost in the dead toxic soil of fertilizer salts. Over-fertilized bud burns the tongue and lips, organic bud gives them smokey kisses.

The Soil Mixture


The same mixture of soil used for balcony pots will work for bush doctors, except instead of a big pot with good drainage you will dig a big hole, or place a planting sack (burlap works well) where the digging gets tough.
My soil blends usually vary slightly depending on available ingredients. Basically, this is all you need:
Sunshine Mix, Pro-mix: or any fluffy potting mix with peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite.
Worm Castings: a very rich, black earth, especially high in nitrogen, and chock full of many things your plant needs. It is alive, and your roots will dig it. You want worm castings that aren't all humic matter (forest floor) so look for a bag that is pure silky smooth black worm shit. You already have peat moss.

  • Bone Meal: stir a few scoops of bone meal into the mix, approximately two cups in a five gallon pail. This is high in phosphorus, which is largely responsible for those beautiful, colourful phosphorescent flower tops that everyone is talking about. Bone meal also aids in root development. It is a natural slow release fertilizer along with hair and feather meal, which are also good additives.
  • Garden Lime: essential for raising the PH of acidic compost-based soils. Cannabis thrives in a fairly neutral soil, and so the lime helps the cannabis process the nutrients locked up in acidic soil. All compost is acidic, and I recommend a lot of compost.
  • Compost: use well-rotted compost that is not stinky, as if you use fresh manure your bud will smell and taste like it. Make your own if you are so inclined, or just buy some on your way to the bush. I recommend that you use as many different kinds of quality compost that you can get your paws on. Chicken manure, composted at least a year, works wonders. Add any or all of the following and stir it all up: kitchen compost, manure from cattle, sheep, horse, goat, pigeon, deer.
  • Bat Guano: two table spoons in a five gallon bucket will fill the soil with micro-organisms that enable the roots to feed vigorously.
  • Potash/Potassium: you can try and save the clean potash from your pipe and joints if you are fanatical, or you can scrape a burnt log for ashes. Don't use ashes from newspaper as they are toxic and will ruin your soil.
    Potassium is a major element in plants, important in all stages of growth. It is also very acidic and so is one of the few natural fertilizers that will kill plants if over fed. Use just two spoonfuls per five gallon pot. It can be mixed in water for a later feeding if necessary.
  • Seaweed Extract: a great source of micro-nutrients and other treats like cytokinins. It is excellent when added to the occasional watering or foliar feed.
  • Drain Rock: any rocks or stones that line the bottom of the pot will facilitate drainage. Lava rock is common but you can find your own little stones as well. Preventing compaction of the roots is essential as the roots need oxygen to thrive, so the soil is best kept loose.
Starting the plants

To start a potted pot plant, you begin with a layer of Drain Rock, about 5cm (2") will do. In the bush you may be better off to plant in a hole that will hold water if your area is particularly hot and dry, but if your area traditionally gets rain throughout the season then be sure to plant in well-drained soil.
Cover the rocks with an inch of potting soil, then add equal parts of castings and potting soil until the pot or hole is about 2/3 of the way full. Stir well, and while stirring add the rest of the ingredients. As a nice variety of composts is preferred, a handful of each will do. You didn't think you were going to avoid getting dirty, did you?
The purpose of all this biological activity in the soil is to create the optimum living environment for the roots of the plant. You will notice that I did not include fish emulsion (guts and shit), or a dead fish as many growers do. Yes there are nutrients in it, but it is absolutely odious. The foul smell and taste is locked into the bud. Sure, not everyone notices, but you will now that you are thinking about it.

An Idiot in the Bush


This is far from a comprehensive review of organic soil additives but it is definitely adequate to grow the kind. The above mixture will be dissolved by helpful bacteria and enzymes that convert the available nutrient base into substances that the roots can readily absorb. Water thoroughly and wait until the pot is dry before you water again.
When working an outdoor patch I dig the holes and mix them up the night before I bring my clones out. That way if I meet anyone I'm just an idiot that likes to bury good soil in the bush.

Polymer Crystals & Plastic Buds

If you go into a grow store these days and ask what's new for outdoor gardening, you will often hear about the amazing water holding capacity of polymer crystals. It is true, I have tried them. The plant was never watered all summer, and was a top yielder. Sounds great, looks great, makes your buds taste like plastic. Stay away! Some packages are clearly marked, "not intended for use in food crops, ornamentals only!" Other packages say nothing more than Polymer Crystals, $6.95. Don't even bother.

Rabbits, Deer, Humans

To keep rabbits and deer away from your plants simply cover them when young with dog hair. If you place it liberally around the garden's perimeter you won't see any signs of deer or rabbits. If you live in a wet coastal area where slugs are a problem then place a jagged tin can or broken glass collar around the base of the plant. To keep people away... you figure it out. It often seems like everyone, and everything, wants your plants.

Harvest '96


The fall harvest of 1996 was by-and-large a good one across the country according to everyone I talked to. In Ontario, Mike Harris' lean, mean governing machine kept the birds on the ground, no doubt helping their hurting economy. A bit of bad weather rotted some of the later harvest which is unusual for Ontario, but common on the West Coast.
On the West Coast, it was a typical year, everywhere you go to plant there is already plants. This coast is covered in cannabis. I hear tales from friends in the Kootenays of great respect among growers. Since nearly everyone grows, everyone knows the pain of rip-offs. They cross each other's driplines on their way to work in the morning, showing a casual trust in the basic goodness of other people which warms my heart. A far cry from the Gulf Islands, where methodical bandits rip-off almost entire islands. Let's make 1997 a record harvest Canada-wide.

A Mighty Force


Full sun, big pots or holes, water when it doesn't rain, and stay home when it does. Let the elements work for you. There is a mighty force at your disposal, believe it.
My loving partner's advice is: bring the dogs, don't wear shorts, don't wear camoflage. Wear "earth tones" of classic casuals, old shoes, and don't follow Steve.


Zdroj:

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]http://www.cannabisculture.com/backissues/cc08/growing/ggo.html
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picture.php


Edit: Pro přehlednost sem odkazy hodil na úvodní stranu.:witch:
 
M

Miris

http://www.pro-bio.cz/cms/clanek/28058/vysevni-dny-2010-jiz-v-prodeji

sou tam zajímavý informace. třeba tohle sem hledal marně...

Příznivá doba pro sběr preparátových rostlin
...
půda v noci vodu zachycuje mnohem lépe než ve dne a odpařování je menší. Při závlaze at už jakýmkoliv způsobem bychom se měli pokusit využít sil nadechování země , které jsou v noci rovněž aktivnější...ve dne, zvláště dopoledne země vydechuje a závlaha ztrácí na účinnosti...

...
závlaha postřikem (vodní děla a fotbalový hřiště) však přináší ještě jiné nevýhody:
horní vrstva půdy se snadno vymývá a je zde značná tendence k zesílené "tvorbě horizontu" v hloubce asi 30cm - tato vrstva může být natolik utužená že jí nepronikne žádný kořen a rostliny jsou odkázány na půdu nad ztvrdlým horizontem...

...
OKOPÁVKA
úžasným pomocníkem je okopávka...
při okopávce se půdou pohne a otevře se...tzn že se dostane do půdy vzduch. jelikož vzduch ale obsahuje především dusík, je tento prvek půdními mikroorganismy zachycen, poután...a tak je okopávka menší dusíkové hnojení. účinnější když se provede v kořenový den...
...
proto reaguje mnoho rostlin na okopávku pozitivně, což se odráží např. v sytější zeleni ...
..při srovnávacích pokusech byly rozdíly ve zbarvení listů tak velké že se všichni domnívali že zde provádíme pokusy s různými dávkami dusíkatých hnojiv...

...
jestliže se přes noc a ráno vytvoří rosa , můžeme počítat s tím že nebude pršet...pokud po ránu rosa není, můžeme počítat s deštěm...


___________________
no potom je tam měsíc , zvěrokruh a druhy kosmických sil a poměru planet... rozdělení kořen/květ/plod/list...rozdělení sil teplosucho/teplovlhko/...vhodný a nevhodný dny na sázení různých stromů a jinejch ... a taky o včelaření... tendence počasí...
 

MagicHerb

New member
Čau Miris, mám ty výsevní dny a chtěl bych se tě zeptat co si myslíš o rozdělení rostlin pro výsev a sklizeň a to do jaké skupiny patří konopí? Květové nebo plodové?:thank you:
 
M

Miris

Čau Miris, mám ty výsevní dny a chtěl bych se tě zeptat co si myslíš o rozdělení rostlin pro výsev a sklizeň a to do jaké skupiny patří konopí? Květové nebo plodové?:thank you:

určitě květové .) pokud by byl tvůj cíl semeno, tak sklízej daleko později a bylo by to plodový
 
M

Miris

tedka sem našel takovou zajímavou citaci od DDTeho(resp. přeložený):
Vegetatívne rastliny ohromných rozmerov môžu počas mesiacov rastu dlhej fotoperiody naakumulovať inhibítory kvitnutia. V období keď sa začnú dni skracovať tieto rastliny sa môžu zdráhať prejsť do kvitnutia pretože sa v ich vegetatívnych listoch naakumulovali inhibítory kvitnutia. A vďaka dobe kvitnutia 6 – 10 týždňov plus oddialeniu kvitnutia v dôsledku spomínaných inhibítorov sa môže obdobie zberu presunúť až na november či dokonca december.

ale asi to nechápu nebo co :D respective se to má týkat brzkýho vysazování??
 

berrea

Member
pravděpodobně jo... jakože když kytku vysadíš moc brzo, tak pozdějc nakvete... a zkušenost řiká, že je to pravda...

a skromně si myslim, že právě v tomhle může bejt dobrý masivní odlistění kytek před květem... odstraní se ty naakumulovaný hormony a kytka jede podle světla na květ...
 
M

Miris

pravděpodobně jo... jakože když kytku vysadíš moc brzo, tak pozdějc nakvete... a zkušenost řiká, že je to pravda...

a skromně si myslim, že právě v tomhle může bejt dobrý masivní odlistění kytek před květem... odstraní se ty naakumulovaný hormony a kytka jede podle světla na květ...

mě většinou kytka sundá dost listů sama ... masivní bych to nedělal , to zase bude moc velkej zásah ... tak akorát jak je potřeba...

a když sme načli toto téma - jaká je ideální doba pro sázení (semínko/řez) ?

imho semínko klíčit koncem března, řízek v dubnu...nejdřív
 
mě většinou kytka sundá dost listů sama ... masivní bych to nedělal , to zase bude moc velkej zásah ... tak akorát jak je potřeba...

a když sme načli toto téma - jaká je ideální doba pro sázení (semínko/řez) ?

imho semínko klíčit koncem března, řízek v dubnu...nejdřív

o měsíc pozdějc
 

berrea

Member
já sázim hlavně podle toho, jak která odrůda kvete... ty hodně rychlý věci sázim brzo (automatiky budu sázet tak za tejden dva) a to, u čeho čekam zralost třeba koncem října, vysazuju klidně v červenci... zatim se mi to osvědčilo
 

newhousegreen

-.-
Veteran
zduř
uvažuju jestli už vyrazit kopat jámy a navážet zem(na dno si představuju koňšký lejna,na to slámu,hlínu-ze zahrádky)..venku jsem amatér takže si nechám poradit:)

a kolem kytek,co budete dávat?vanishe se štítim)

před dvěma lety,nám to pěkně ožraly nějaký puklice bo co,možná housenky,bleee
..toho bych se taky rád vyvaroval

thaanks
 

Shaman

Member
pánové chci se zeptat jestli ty houby (symbvit) se sami na kořenech rozmnožujou? Jestli má smysl naporcovat je na více kytek s tim že se rozmnožej nebo spíš jedný pořádně..
 
NHS:no kolem jim sázim písek a osvědčilo se,lepčí jak chemik vanish:D
Nebo skořápky od vajec,je tohoasi víc,ale ten písek je takovej i estetickej:bump:
každopádně ty kobylince s tou slámou dobrej nápad + vlastní hlínečka
ze zahrádky...ideální,si budou rochnit:cathug::smoweed:
 
M

Miris

já sázim hlavně podle toho, jak která odrůda kvete... ty hodně rychlý věci sázim brzo (automatiky budu sázet tak za tejden dva) a to, u čeho čekam zralost třeba koncem října, vysazuju klidně v červenci... zatim se mi to osvědčilo

jo, taky pravda !

zduř
uvažuju jestli už vyrazit kopat jámy a navážet zem(na dno si představuju koňšký lejna,na to slámu,hlínu-ze zahrádky)..venku jsem amatér takže si nechám poradit:)

a kolem kytek,co budete dávat?vanishe se štítim)

před dvěma lety,nám to pěkně ožraly nějaký puklice bo co,možná housenky,bleee
..toho bych se taky rád vyvaroval

thaanks

vanish já dávám l...není to úplně nejvíc feer ale tak lepší než mít ožraný kytky .) písek nevim nevim tim prolezou ti snaživější imho...skořápky feer

jámu připravit můžeš ale tim stylem že bych dal jen na dno ty hnoje...hlínu ne at se nevytratí živiny ...ale jen rozpustí .)

pánové chci se zeptat jestli ty houby (symbvit) se sami na kořenech rozmnožujou? Jestli má smysl naporcovat je na více kytek s tim že se rozmnožej nebo spíš jedný pořádně..

jo, rozmnožujou se :) já dávám symbivit když přesazuju z kelímků a ušetří se tim
 
jo, taky pravda !



vanish já dávám l...není to úplně nejvíc feer ale tak lepší než mít ožraný kytky .) písek nevim nevim tim prolezou ti snaživější imho...skořápky feer

jámu připravit můžeš ale tim stylem že bych dal jen na dno ty hnoje...hlínu ne at se nevytratí živiny ...ale jen rozpustí .)



jo, rozmnožujou se :) já dávám symbivit když přesazuju z kelímků a ušetří se tim


Já jen k tomu písku- že to fuguje dobře. Možná přispívá i to, že vždycky používám netkanku. Kytku obsypu kruhem písku cca 15-30cm od stonku a slimáci maj velkej problém :laughing: .....

Jinak ale po loňsku je Vanish můj nejlepší přítel :)
 

Shaman

Member
zdravím kolegové :wave:
chci se zeptat co si myslíte o sušení pomocí silika gelu - a speciálně jestli je rozdíl mezi použitím silikagelu z chemických potřeb (cena cca 300 za 1000g) a Kočkolit Magic Pearls silikagel - "100% přírodní neparfemovaný silikagel" (cena 200 za 7,6l)?
 

CrTecekk

Member
tak logicky ten prirodni a levnejsi ne?? :) myslim ze 7,2 litru bude urcite vazit vic nez kilo ale myslim ze to nebude silikagekl a aby pak kdyz zasipes cerstve palky ti to nezhnilo ...ja to parkrat zkousel ale jen jako rychlo metodu za 2-3 hodky to mas suche ale neni na pomale suseni a pak to dat ulezet a pockat az se to vyskoli samo..
 
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