Molasses - Doses and times

[mexilandrace]

dried molasses is awesome, and even better is you can mix it into your soil mix like you would any other supplement and not worry about adding molasses to your feed water.

I had some great grows that way.

actually glad you said it was rye hulls, I always assumed it was little chewed up bits of sugar cane. learn something new everyday.

 

[*mistress*]

these may be helpful:
Canna Boost V Molasses - side by side comparison.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=136037

calculating npk/nutrient profile
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=134356

enjoy your garden!

 

[Krakatoa2009]

I use molasses (1 tablespoon per gallon), from start until 2 weeks before chopping, everytime I feed my plants. The rest, plain water. My plants love it. No more calcium or magnesium deficiencies, good bye to ph problems in peat, etc. Molasses rule.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Just a heads up...
Blackstrap molasses is what you want. Unsulphered blackstrap. The other grades have less nutrients and will not have the sugars that are as easily used by the plant.

Brer Rabbit is my BS of choice.
google BG Foods

another heads up, and not to start controversy, but dry feed grades of molasses can have things in it that are not real great for plants. It is also not very consistent and is not regulated near as closely as molasses cooked for human consumption.

 

[ReelBusy1]

I use molasses (1 tablespoon per gallon), from start until 2 weeks before chopping, everytime I feed my plants. The rest, plain water. My plants love it. No more calcium or magnesium deficiencies, good bye to ph problems in peat, etc. Molasses rule.

there is no reason to stop feeding liquid molasses during the last two weeks.
there is nothing in the molasses that needs to be flushed out.
i give right up to the end after cutting everything else out in the last week or ten days.

 

[Tony Aroma]

I was told to mix about a spoonful with one gallon of water and let it sit for a week.

NO! Do not let it sit after you mix in the molasses. It will start stinking and get worse the longer you let it sit. It gets pretty bad. Been there, done that. Mix it thoroughly into your water, then use immediately.

 

[NiteTiger]

NO! Do not let it sit after you mix in the molasses. It will start stinking and get worse the longer you let it sit. It gets pretty bad. Been there, done that. Mix it thoroughly into your water, then use immediately.

I couldn't agree more

 

[*mistress*]

another heads up, and not to start controversy, but dry feed grades of molasses can have things in it that are not real great for plants. It is also not very consistent and is not regulated near as closely as molasses cooked for human consumption.

?

disagree... but no controversy.
use feed grade molasses w/ no issues.

dry molasses is just grain scraps, that would be waste... coated w/ molasses that may have particulate matter.

maybe hoosierdaddy post about preservatives in feed grade...
?...

as far as regulation... probably regulated just as, or more than human consumption product... as feed grade molasses given to rumen that eventually reach human mouth. so, yes, very regulated...

why they can provide profiles like this, if/when acquire...
(see link)

Nutrient Name|Actual Dry Matter|Units
1 Weight......................1. 0000 1.0000 Lbs
2 Dry Matter...............70.0000 70.0000 %
3 Crude Protein............. 2.8610 4.0872 %
7 Ash % ....................10.4905 14.9864 %
8 Total Sugar Invert ....46.7302 66.7575 %
9 Moisture .................30.0000 42.8571 %
10 Calcium ....................0.5150 0.7357 %
11 Phosphorus ...............0.0477 0.0681 %
12 Salt .........................0.343 3 0.4905 %
13 Sodium .....................0.1431 0.2044 %
14 Chloride ....................2.2888 3.2698 %
15 Magnesium ................0.1907 0.2725 %
16 Potassium .................3.4332 4.9046 %
17 Sulfur .......................0.2956 0.4223 %
18 Cobalt ......................2.9645 4.2350 ppm
19 Copper ...................19.0736 27.2480 ppm
20 Iron ....................121.1029 173.0041 ppm
22 Manganese ..............28.5938 40.8482 ppm
24 Zinc ..........................4.91 13 7.0162 ppm
54 Cobalt ........................1.3447 1.9210 mg/lb
55 Copper .......................8.6517 12.3596 mg/lb
56 Iron .........................54.93 19 78.4741 mg/lb
58 Manganese ...............12.9701 18.5286 mg/lb
60 Zinc ...........................2.2 278 3.1825 mg/lb
71 NFE ..........................56.6 485 80.9264 %
72 TDN ..........................57.9 455 82.7793 %
73 DE ..........................115. 8865 165.5522 Mcal/cwt
74 ME ...........................95. 0270 135.7528 Mcal/cwt
75 NE (Lact).................. 60.5858 86.5511 Mcal/cwt
76 NE (Maint) ................64.2443 91.7776 Mcal/cwt
77 NE (Gain) .................43.3861 61.9801 Mcal/cwt
114 Organic Matter % .....59.5095 85.0136 %
117 NSC/TNC % .............56.6485 80.9264 %
119 Digest Protein % ........0.0163 0.0233 %
134 Molasses Factor % ..95.3678 136.2398 %
135 % Cane .................95.3678 136.2398 %
137 % Front .................11.2727 16.1039 %
153 Tag Protein % ...........2.7752 3.9646 %
156........................... .....0.4292 0.6131 %
157 Tag Phos % ...............0.0458 0.0654 %
158 Tag Moisture % .........30.9000 44.1429 %
159 Tag Sugars % ............44.8610 64.0872 %
160 Added Minerals % ........6.6757 9.5368 %
166 Sucrose % ...............35.4909 50.7013 %
176 NE (lac) Mcal/kg .....1.3357 1.9081 mcal/kg
177 NE (Main) Mcal/kg ....1.4163 2.0233 mcal/kg
178 NE (Gain) Mcal/kg .....0.9565 1.3664 mcal/kg
179 ME Dry Mcal/kg .........2.8516 4.0737 Mcal/kg
180 TDN Dry Basis% .............78.9448 112.7783 %
193 Brix 75.8174 .......................108.310 6 Brix
194 OM Factor ........................0.1127 0.1610
195 Anion mEq/100g ..............82.9516 118.5022
196 Cation mEq/100g .............94.2515 134.6450
197 CAB mEq .........................11.29 99 16.1428
199 Est Product RI .................69.4850 99.2643
201 Density .........................0.386 0 0.5514 lbs/gal
202 Water Activity ................0.0463 0.0662 units

as opposed to much limited data, on human type molasses.

either can be converted into actual ppms/ec, etc... by converting daily values (human) to either millimhos, or ppms... & vice versa.

enjoy your garden!

 

[hoosierdaddy]

disagree... but no controversy.
use feed grade molasses w/ no issues.

No room for controversy?

OK, but if I were to enter into a debate about this, it would be good to know that there are many things that can be added to feed grade molasses that do not have to be reported. Many of these things include mold inhibitors, color preservatives, flowability chemicals and glycols. Some may also include a surfactant to reduce dusting.
But, since there is no controversy, I say go for the feed grade and rest assured that you are fine in doing so....
But then...one could always just go to the grocery store and get a bottle of bs and feel fairly confident of the ingredients. Wonder if there are things they don't have to report in human consumption grade molasses?

You state no issues. -are you certain of that? Certain enough to recommend it without question?

 

[NickMode]

Dried molasses is a good alternative to using the liquid molasses products. Basically dried molasses is rye seed hulls sprayed with beet sugar molasses (sold at farm stores and livestock suppliers).

It should run about $20.00 (or less) for a 50-lb. bag.

If nothing else it's easier to clean-up if you spill it on the floor vs. liquid molasses.

HTH

CC

awesome im glad you said this. i think i am going to try and buy some and add it to my soil mix. Im growing outdoors and i live in a place where its normally pretty wet. so i dont need to water too much but i still want molasses in my soil. putting it in the soil would be perfect.

would you think 1/2 cup per sq. ft would be a alright measurement?

 

[skunktoker]

I use nature's guide Horticultural molasses buy it from feed store 1-2 tablespoons a Gallon as bottle states...I start using molasses in early veg about week 2 all the way flowering.

 

[transplant]

DITTO!

DITTO!

1 TEASPOON per gallon. And a precise measurement is as easy as pouring into a marked spoon.
Molasses should be used at the very first feeding in veg, and continued through until flush.
Molasses can indeed make a harsh smoke if used up till chop.
What molasses does is feed usable sugars and nutrients to the plant and feeds microbes, and most importantly serves as a chelating agent for good nutrient uptake. The plant needs these things for optimum health all through it's life, and it makes no sense to wait until flower to start it.
So in my opinion, the poll is flawed.

The same for me...

 

[transplant]

Yes, Brier Rabit HAS MORE nutes

Yes, Brier Rabit HAS MORE nutes

Just a heads up...
Blackstrap molasses is what you want. Unsulphered blackstrap. The other grades have less nutrients and will not have the sugars that are as easily used by the plant.

Brer Rabbit is my BS of choice.
google BG Foods

another heads up, and not to start controversy, but dry feed grades of molasses can have things in it that are not real great for plants. It is also not very consistent and is not regulated near as closely as molasses cooked for human consumption.

Brier rabbit brand has twice as much cal/mag + iron!

 

[potheadmd]

I totally agree with hoosierdaddy I use from day 1 until the end even through flush cycle but I might start using straight water for the final 14 days or so.

 

[*mistress*]

No room for controversy?

OK, but if I were to enter into a debate about this, it would be good to know that there are many things that can be added to feed grade molasses that do not have to be reported. Many of these things include mold inhibitors, color preservatives, flowability chemicals and glycols. Some may also include a surfactant to reduce dusting.
But, since there is no controversy, I say go for the feed grade and rest assured that you are fine in doing so....
But then...one could always just go to the grocery store and get a bottle of bs and feel fairly confident of the ingredients. Wonder if there are things they don't have to report in human consumption grade molasses?

You state no issues. -are you certain of that? Certain enough to recommend it without question?

if they did not have to be reported, member hoosierdaddy wouldnt be aware of them... the potential additives mentioned.
also, same certainty of these items not being in human food variety?
most foods (especially foods susceptible to mold, such as molasses) will include a benign 'preservative'.
obviously, if not preserved properly, as soon as open & air make contact... may go bad...

even regular nutes, like floralicious & supertea have shelf-life...

didnt this back/forth already take place? between hoosierdaddy & *mistress*?... here:

Molasses ~ When & Why ?
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=2742995&postcount=293
&
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=2743683&postcount=297

then
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=2743980&postcount=300
&
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=2744670&postcount=302

yes... feed grade fine.
animals that make way into food chain fed it... this mean that if consume animals, consuming this, too.

animal feed just as, if not more, regulated than fertilizers... there are farmers & pet owners that are strong advocates for their livelihood, or close pet.
most everyhting made, anywhere, is regulated in some fashion.

molasses does have a shelf life (~2 yrs). whether human or animal grade. is susceptible to mold, & should be kept in cool dark place.

the nutrient profile for 1 tbsp of wholes0m sweEEtnrs molasses in link in sig.

enjoy your garden!

 

[dakin3d]

Heres a couple links on molasses:

1) Lots of Molasses info:

http://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/186821-molasses-every-thing-u-need.html

2) Soil Scienc/Horticultural PhD's arguing w/ farmers and gardners regarding whether Molasses is even useful as an amendment:

https://sharepoint.cahnrs.wsu.edu/b...re-they-and-what-do-they-do.aspx#postComments

Hope this is useful for everyone.... Cheers, dak

 

[Painfull]

Is there a good product that i can use in my aero system that will not gum up the works?

 

[hoosierdaddy]

mistress, you will notice in our first encounter in this debate that I simply dropped out of the conversation. This is for a couple of reasons. First off, I find you to be a bit condescending and tend to make assumptions. I was raised around farm life. I have taken care of livestock since I was old enough to even have a memory. So, don't invite me to visit my local feed store...I have visited many a feed store in my day.
Besides, if you think the folks at the feed store know what is in their molasses, besides what they can read on the label, you would probably be mistaken. Most won't have any clue, and all they could tell you is who they bought it from.

It is also a bit bold of you to make the statement that if products used weren't supposed to be listed, that I wouldn't know about them. Well, there are ways to find out about things that aren't on the labels.

If a preservative is used in a food grade molasses, it will be listed in the ingredients.
Are you making the assumption that since you feel it will go bad that there are certainly preservatives used in the product, and they simply aren't listing them?

The bottom line is this...feed stock molasses can and will be cut with things that may or may not be good for horticultural uses. Including preservatives and things like oils to keep the molasses from clumping when mixed with grain, and soap to keep dust down.
Most feedstock molasses that says "Pure Cane" or similar are often times nothing but straight up molasses that does not meet food grade restrictions and will be a fine source of molasses for our uses, although be warned that many of these bulk suppliers cut the stock with water and things, like lesser and cheaper cuts of cane or other sugars, so that you really don't know how accurate the report from the mfg is.

It is just a gamble that I don't think folks who invest a lot of time and money in, should have to put themselves through. It is just so easy to buy quality blackstrap molasses from the grocery and be done with worry.


And I have never backed up the molasses we get at the grow store. That is a racket sales. And no, they don't have to list ingredients either. But that should be obvious since it isn't produced for consumption.

You say it is fine to use, I disagree.
No way can I recommend anyone use feedstock molasses when there is a chance it could contain things that may not be so good for my grow.
But, perhaps you can show us how feedstock molasses is fine to use, rather than just tell us? Can you show us why there is a distinction between food grade and feedstock grade molasses? I would think following your logic that we wouldn't need any distinctions.

On a side...
Folks be careful when using other cuts of molasses and sugar syrups. They can and will play havoc on your pH, and the sugars are not as usable as in the blackstrap cut.

 

[FinestKind]

Well, I hope that clears it up for you... according to the results (so far), it's either 1t per gallon or 1T per gallon...

And a gallon (yes, a gallon) of Hi-Brix pure horticultural grade molasses from Earth Juice is 16 bucks. That's 8 pounds. Not too shabby.

FK

 

[*mistress*]

@ hoosierdaddy...

there is just a general disagreement about the topic.

agree to disagree?
as w/ any material, the user should look to find what suits them. beforehand...

whether that be food grade, or feed grade, or anything else.
it simple matter to get this data before selecting final type/kind/brand.
fortunately, the type selected above... does not contain preservatives.

if there are preservatives, they must list them.
if there are preservatives, the mfg has to say so, when asked.
simple. end.

they cannot claim that there are no preservatives, when theyre ingredients.
they cannot claim blackstrap when it is not.
that is how comps get into issues.
not that something is there or not, but failing to disclose such.

even if there are preservatives in food, or feed grade, they are harmless to plant and final consumer. no ill effects noted, no taste variations, no issues...
though fairly certain there no preservatives...

as for the concept that they a gardenr wont know what is in there... view the comprehensive list of ingredients, etc above... this is far more than any food grade label will provide.

no preservatives listed, none present.

gardeners can/should draw own conclusions & select that which suits there garden.