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Questions (4k open bulb)

tweezy

Member
I'm planning on copying this room pretty closely:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=151370

I'm planning on 4k in a 9x9 room with about 36 plants. I have a 1200cfm vortex with a 1700cfm carbon scrubber for exhaust (exhausting outside). I'll use a couple box fans on the floor aiming up towards the lights and two more for circulation.

I have a basement window that I can build a box around for a passive intake, will passive be enough for this room or is an intake fan crucial?

Another question, I'll be running this room during the night time. Overnight temps in the summer can get close to 70, will I have an impossible time cooling this room during the warm months with passive intake and no air conditioning?

Thanks guys.
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
I'm planning on copying this room pretty closely:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=151370

I'm planning on 4k in a 9x9 room with about 36 plants. I have a 1200cfm vortex with a 1700cfm carbon scrubber for exhaust (exhausting outside). I'll use a couple box fans on the floor aiming up towards the lights and two more for circulation.

I have a basement window that I can build a box around for a passive intake, will passive be enough for this room or is an intake fan crucial?

Another question, I'll be running this room during the night time. Overnight temps in the summer can get close to 70, will I have an impossible time cooling this room during the warm months with passive intake and no air conditioning?

Thanks guys.



ya, you should copy that room, it yielded great with outstanding quality.

your passive intake could suffice for the winter, but not knowing where you are, not sure if it will work for the summer. i have a passive intake in 2 5k open bulb rooms, no ac needed during the summer at all. a portable 12k ac should work fine in your setup.

good luck!
 

Vindie$el

Member
Active intakes don't help cooling more, they just create more turbulence.

A rough figure that has worked for me over the years is 500cfm of fan per 1K watt of HID. Or with A/C I use about 5000btu's per 1K watts of HID. Anyway you shake it you still need an exhaust whether you run co2 or not. If you were to run a sealed room with A/C and co2 you would need to use a more powerful fan because it would need to move a lot quickly and shut off for the next co2 emission. I use a 9000btu portable A/C on one side of the room and a 850 cfm fan on the other side of the room. My passive intake is right next to my A/C so it draws a warm and humid ambient air across my A/C blower dropping the temperature and humidity of the intake for the room. The exhaust fan brings the cool air across my room. My room runs between 75F and 80F and around 50rh to 60rh.
 

redspaghetti

love machine
ICMag Donor
Veteran
hiya tweezy,

i've ran vert open bulb before but not 4k
mine was in a tent 2k open bulb 8x8
i had a vortex + scrubber at 500 cfm
800 watts portable ac and i can keep my tent at 75 - 78

i've also ran a larger open bulb scale but i did not set up but so i cant give you much info, i can give you what we had in there

6k in a 12x15 room
portable ac i think its 12 or 15k btu
we had 1 vortex fan hook up to a scrubber at 1200 cfm
it does get a little warm after the lights on for a while 85+ sometime 90 ?

both of these are not sealed, each one get an intake from the window,
hope that helps and good luck with ur project.

ps. if krunch give you advices you should listen hes pimp at vert.
 

tweezy

Member
Thanks for the input guys.

krunch, good idea on the portable 12k a/c, i'll feel much more comfortable having one around just in case.

vindiesel, i'm not going to be running CO2 yet. this is a brand new room with brand new genetics, i have way too much on my plate to try and tackle CO2 considering my lack of experience with it. im keeping everything as basic as possible and just hope i can get enough fresh outside air to keep CO2 levels semi acceptable.

shcrews and redspaghetti, thanks for the input, you and krunch have me sold on a portable unit. better safe than sorry.
 

Vindie$el

Member
Environment is the most important part to indoor growing. Ditching the reflector and going vertical helps a lot with keeping the temps down and getting the most out of a light. There is a lot of great advice on this thread and site use your best judgment and you will do fine. You already know the importance of environment otherwise you wouldn't be asking questions. Your on the right track.
 

tweezy

Member
Environment is the most important part to indoor growing. Ditching the reflector and going vertical helps a lot with keeping the temps down and getting the most out of a light. There is a lot of great advice on this thread and site use your best judgment and you will do fine. You already know the importance of environment otherwise you wouldn't be asking questions. Your on the right track.

Well I appreciate the kind words man.

Now back to the good stuff - I have absolutely no intentions of wiring anything myself, I'll feel better sleeping at night with some real electronics.

http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cap-mlc8dx-light-controller-dual-trigger-cables-p-2496.html

This is a 40 amp controller with two timers - I have a 30 amp dryer plug. Assuming I never exceed 23-24 amps at one time this should work just fine, shouldn't it?

I ask because I'd like to set the lights to power on two at a time about five minutes apart to avoid any sort of real heavy power spike. (I'm doing this solely because I've heard it's a good idea, can anybody elaborate and/or disprove this? thanks)

One timer would include two lights and my 400w 12" fan, the other timer would run the other two lights starting a few minutes later.

Also, will I have enough amperage left to power a 12k btu air conditioner with all four lights + 400w fan running?
 

250wscrogger

Active member
Just run a 20 amp 120v circuit for the a/c and fans so you can have the 30 amp circuit dedicated to lights only. :2cents:
The lights will pull 20 amps, 4 amps for the vortex and 10-12 amps for the ac = more than 30 amps.
 

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