ATTN: Chamba, HMK !

[Baron Ambrosia]

Whats up all! This is my first post here on IC (long winded I know, apologies) it took almost three days actually to recieve my confirmation email

Either way, i've done ALOTT of reading here over quite a longg time (O.G days even) and have seen tonns and tons of great information from everyyone the world over

But I have a few quick questions and figured i'd aim them at the both of you (if thats alright)


Chamba, love your threads very educational, never biased!

I like my dry sifting, i've always done it and gotten an enjoyable product, only as of more recently have I learned about using multiple screens. Always used one screen, (I believe a 120) with great result, nice blonde stuff but i'd like to try refining that with two.

But after all that reading, I am still left wanting to know, which mesh would give me a full melt substance? 150 and 125? 125 and 110? It it based on the resin content of my product? Or just the technique of the sift? Both?

Here you said,

I, like most dry sifters are very happy with the kif I get from working it through a 150 micron and then a 125 micron mesh

But in the Dry Sift Fan Club thread you mentioned that

an ideal combo is Gypsy's latest stash box, 120 mesh and 145 mesh..and will produce hash that is too sticky, too blonde and that is high octane rocket fuel for the brain.

And of course... That is what i'm looking for!




HMK, if you are reading, I know most of that wasn't aimed at you, yer an oil dude!

I read most of Chiefsmokingbud's BHO tutorial, great read verry informative, made me learn alot but one quick question about that realm, as i've never ever done a BHO run, but have an okief tube coming..

Per full tube of ground bud, how many cans of butane do you use per product filled tube and which size(mL)? Less than 300 I would assume? Does this change if I use trim? Or would I always use the same amount of tane, regardless of dry product inside?

When you purchase the butane make sure you find the largest size of can you can. I use the 300ml/167g (6oz) cans of Colibri. Most places only carry the little 2oz cans, these are not enough. You will need at least 8oz of butane for every 1oz of plant material.

I read this but throughout the thread there seems to be variations, I saw you mention that you recieved almost 90% using 3/4 of a tube or something? Does this ring any bell or am I crazy lol? if 8oz to 1oz material is true, how much fits into one okeif tube? Doesn't look like very much.. half oz or so?


Also, is it the purge and temp that makes it oily or hard? I prefer the soft oil as opposed to rock candy, but am not sure what creates this effect.

Finally (*takes deep breath*) i'd like to inquire about the BEAUTIFUL (and ingenious) bubbler/ti pad combos you & your sister create, I understand there is an infinitely long waiting list, but is there a fee or a way to attain a spot on this legend? It would be an honor to have one on my shelf



I appreciate any and all responses guys, i've learned a hell of alot over time, just hope I can get these few quick Q's answered and stop ranting hahah time for another snap....

 

[Hashmasta-Kut]

extracting from an ounce of buds( i recommend you dont grind up bud or leaf b4 extracting), the first can got over 90% of the oil from it. using a second can got like very close to 10% more, so its your call where you draw the line.

if you want your oil softer, always do large runs. thinner oil thickness in the dish hardens up much more quickly.

i am actually making my own oil pipes now too

 

[Baron Ambrosia]

So 8oz tane/1oz plant material is universal, cool

I can get up to 90% of the oil WITHOUT grinding, using one can of tane? And using whole bud? I assume smaller size nugs/popcorn ? I feel like NOT grinding would cover less surface area resulting in less product? As opposed to using ground material which would be saturated easier?


As for the pipes, definitely interested PM me if you like

 

[Hashmasta-Kut]

grinding generally gives maybe 5 percent more yield, and then you get crappy darker oil. the 5 percent you will extract is not thc, its something thats exposed from grinding. i never grind buds up, BUT, if they are super hard and tight, i may break them up some. not ground tho, just loosened.

 

[Baron Ambrosia]

Thanks, i appreciate the advice definitely

When I do my run i'll use whole, slightly crumbled buds. Most of the time I have nice solid rock buds on the upper colas and a little light popcorn on the bottom, the pop i'll toss in whole as-is the regular nugs i'll crumble a little

Any word on the screens? I found a screenprinter that sells them prestretched, same micron and size as the bubbleman screens, probably 75% cheaper just not sure which I should pick up. Usually working with indicas if that helps, some hybrids too but never really sativa dom stuff

 

[Chamba]

But after all that reading, I am still left wanting to know, which mesh would give me a full melt substance? 150 and 125? 125 and 110? It it based on the resin content of my product? Or just the technique of the sift? Both?

one, none, three...it all depends on many factors...do some reading through my posts and you should learn lots from all the info I and others have posted...that and experience will help improve your purity.

check out Bubbleman's set of dry sifting screens that are available from ICmag sponsor AquaLabTech....it's probably cheaper to buy screen printing screens if you could get the correct mesh sizes, but Bubbleman set of 4 screens are purpose built for dry sifting, the top screen is a durable stainless steel and the other 3 finer screens are synthetic and are just right for producing melty dry sift. The frames interconnect together, the LPI and micron mesh sizes are engraved on the Australian pine wood frames and are well built. I use a stash box for day to day bowl packing and rolling jays, but when I have enough bud, I work a few handfuls of it through the BM dry sift set of frames.