TheGreenReaper
Member
Hey IC Mag family. I have a thread going about the various opinions and discrepancies on pH meters vs. Strips and some ideas have come up that we dont want to continue discussing as it will derail the thread. http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=160081
A few of us want to have the discussion as to which is better: Constant pH throughout a grow, or some type of either systematic or random fluctuation for different nutrient uptake.
There are numerous opinions and experiences with this one. This is one of those aspects of growing like religion...everyone has a different take. I think as growers we can all agree pH is important, and to neglect it indicates either extreme luck, extreme ignorance, or extreme expertise in the case of the masters of buffered soil. In addition, water quality has an effect upon pH. Heck, the inhibition of the potential uptake of nutrients at the proper pH due to things like calcium binding to other elements is possible even if you try to get the pH "right".
In my experience, when I have tried a dynamic pH regiment as opposed to a static regiment, I get problems. They problems show up 3-5 days after h20/feed. I start to get the spotty leaves, then the unhappy plant, etc. Grow enough and you can tell in 4 seconds whether or not the plant is happy even if "visible" damage is not yet evident. Am I alone in this or do others agree?
I have found better results, after years of fiddling with it, to start at 5.8 at clone, run 5.8 till about week 6 of flower. Then go 5.9 week 7, then 6 for weeks 8&9. I have found a little better flush by rising slightly at the end (I guess I am pulling some things out of the media that were lightly inaccessible (locked) at the 5.8 range.)
I do understand the role media will play in this discussion. The buffering capabilities of hydro are much less than say...soil. I personally grow in 100% unamended Coco. I apply within 30 min of mixing a batch, so the plants receive a pH of what I give them at the time. I used to measure run off, but dont anymore...I dont know, you just get where you dont need to...you can tell what is going on. In addition, I have a pretty basic and dialed nute regiment so I am not recreating the wheel often.
So, lets hear all about the different results and reasons for your pH method of choice. Lets even explore things like the chelating abilities of humics, the outlier properties of coco in its CEC properties, the ease with which hydro naturally fluxes due to aeration and nute usage, etc. Please keep it clean and civil, again pH is like religion, no right answer...but if it works for you...then it works for you..period.
Let the games begin!
A few of us want to have the discussion as to which is better: Constant pH throughout a grow, or some type of either systematic or random fluctuation for different nutrient uptake.
There are numerous opinions and experiences with this one. This is one of those aspects of growing like religion...everyone has a different take. I think as growers we can all agree pH is important, and to neglect it indicates either extreme luck, extreme ignorance, or extreme expertise in the case of the masters of buffered soil. In addition, water quality has an effect upon pH. Heck, the inhibition of the potential uptake of nutrients at the proper pH due to things like calcium binding to other elements is possible even if you try to get the pH "right".
In my experience, when I have tried a dynamic pH regiment as opposed to a static regiment, I get problems. They problems show up 3-5 days after h20/feed. I start to get the spotty leaves, then the unhappy plant, etc. Grow enough and you can tell in 4 seconds whether or not the plant is happy even if "visible" damage is not yet evident. Am I alone in this or do others agree?
I have found better results, after years of fiddling with it, to start at 5.8 at clone, run 5.8 till about week 6 of flower. Then go 5.9 week 7, then 6 for weeks 8&9. I have found a little better flush by rising slightly at the end (I guess I am pulling some things out of the media that were lightly inaccessible (locked) at the 5.8 range.)
I do understand the role media will play in this discussion. The buffering capabilities of hydro are much less than say...soil. I personally grow in 100% unamended Coco. I apply within 30 min of mixing a batch, so the plants receive a pH of what I give them at the time. I used to measure run off, but dont anymore...I dont know, you just get where you dont need to...you can tell what is going on. In addition, I have a pretty basic and dialed nute regiment so I am not recreating the wheel often.
So, lets hear all about the different results and reasons for your pH method of choice. Lets even explore things like the chelating abilities of humics, the outlier properties of coco in its CEC properties, the ease with which hydro naturally fluxes due to aeration and nute usage, etc. Please keep it clean and civil, again pH is like religion, no right answer...but if it works for you...then it works for you..period.
Let the games begin!