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How much weight should i expect

Im trying to figure out how much weight should i pull out of this setup. I know alot can depend on the outcome. But what should i expect so i can have a number to hold up against.

Ill have it in a 2x4 and 8ft in height....Ill have about 6 plants in 3gal containers under 400w hps light...

I've heard a few different yield outcomes...I should get about 2-3z per plant and ive hear 1/2z per plant....
 

Kcar

There are FOUR lights!
Veteran
6 plants is 3 too many, but it could go either way!
Depends on: How long you veg, how much you top, what your medium is, which strain
your running, what your RH/PH/PPM is, etc and so on.

How about a little more info?
 

NiteTiger

Tiger, Tiger, burning bright...
Veteran
I'm not sure where K is getting his numbers, but there is absolutely no reason why you can't have 6 plants in that space. In fact, many growers use a 1 plant per sq ft rule, which would mean you could fit 8 in there comfortable.

The main thing that will make that determination will be plant size. For instance, in a SOG type grow, you would aim for 4 or more plants per square foot. If you were doing bushes, you'd want maybe 1 plant per 2 sq feet.

That being said, under a 400w, you'll want to keep the plants relatively small, since a 400 doesn't have the penetration to effectivvely light tall plants. I'd say 6 is a good number, as long as you're keeping them short :yes:

As to yield, expect nothing. Zero. Assume you're going to kill them all.

The odds of you hitting 2+ zips per plant are nil. 2 oz per plant would mean you're getting 1 gram per watt, and that is something even experienced growers have trouble attaining. New growers will often get less than a quarter gram per watt.

Yield estimates have no basis in reality, and all it does is set you up for disappointment. Yield is most effected by skill, and there is no way to quantify that ahead of time.

Your goal as a grower is to grow healthy plants. Do that, and the yield will follow. Don't focus on the yield. Focus on the plant. Just getting to harvest means you're successful as a grower, and have accomplished something many in this world never will.

Don't let false yield expectations ruin that for you.
 
That calculation is extremely difficult considering it consist of a lot of unknown future environmental factors. And considering each garden and location is different, other peoples experience are not really going to help you determine what you will yield.

Best advice: go through a few harvests and keep good record of everything. Then after a few harvests you can have a better idea making yield predictions.
 
I have 2 types of seeds(grown at seperate times)...one is white widow AF....so no veg.
2nd batch is haze mist, am planning on veg for about 4 weeks and flowering for 8-9weeks..
Will be using Foxfarm OF soil and nutrients.
 

ginoberde

Member
Like the tigerman said...focus on growing, no need to stress on yield right now.

There is no way a person can guess what YOU can yield without knowing you skills, strains, temps, nutes,....see how many variables? and the list can go on and on

It should start with love for the plant and the new hobby you chose, yield will follow then
 

Kcar

There are FOUR lights!
Veteran
The seeds you have are at either end of the growing spectrum.
The WW AF can flower in 24/0 and the Haze Mist is a longer haze at
prob 9 weeks flowering. Not to say you can't flower them together at 12/12 but
it's a waste for the AF's.

Really, any number of plants will grow into your space. The more you jam in, the more
you chance powdery mildew and other diseases. For SOG you need alot of clones with
very little veg time.

In the end, I believe you could get 1/2lb per rotation in your setup. But you need to read alot first. Good Luck!!!

Kcar
 

Kcar

There are FOUR lights!
Veteran
In the forests of the night...

my second favorite poem.

Something there is that doesn't love a wall...
 

Euphrates

Member
Not to change the subject, but what exactly is the cause of powdery mildew : I am taking a guess and saying poor ventaltation, and high high heat.
edit: High humidity - is that the only way this could occur ?
Also take into consideration that some phenotypes yield less than others.

But I agree with not worrying so much about yield as the project it self. Though it is hard not to ponder.
 
Not to change the subject, but what exactly is the cause of powdery mildew : I am taking a guess and saying poor ventaltation, and high high heat.

Also take into consideration that some phenotypes yield less than others.

But I agree with not worrying so much about yield as the project it self. Though it is hard not to ponder.

Humidity is a big factor in mildew, which is in part effected by temperature. Good ventilation is important in general. Though an entomologist told me that higher humidity may help suppress spider mites.

I was told you could get rid of it using a milk/water spray. I hear good things about the effectiveness. I haven't done it myself and I buy almond milk so I have to go out of my way - but I have some powdery mildew on a plant given to me so I am going to try it out.
 
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Euphrates

Member
Thanks carbonskeleton, yeh this would diffenently be something to watch out for.. I also just read the spraying hydrogen peroxide works well too.


I'll copy and paste what I found, the person is no longer around, so i don't know who to give credit too, but seems reliable.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=43220&highlight=powdery+mildew

"just spray ur plants top to bottom with hydrogen peroxide. completely harmless to ur plant. It breaks down the PM to nothing then drys off completely while leaving ur buds and leaves looking lush and green again. U can repeat this process serveral times a week. once the PM is gone u can stop treatment. This method only kills the PM but doesnt prevent it from coming back if the conditions are right. With that said, this was the safest and easiest way to get rid of my PM problem. And i had it bad trust me."

"the 3% (hydrogen peroxide) is what u use to rid ur plants of PM. Straight up. no diluting. once the bubbles oxidize it turns into plain old h20. the bubbles is what kills the pm. Ur plants may need several treatments however depending on ur grow environment and how severe ur PM is. I had it real bad. it was everywhere. i was gonna just chop em down and start all over until i heard of this treatment. It was my last resort and it worked like a dream. I spray em down once a day until harvest cuz i let them go for 4 days after i thought the PM was gone and then it started to show up again in some places so now i just spray em once a day and it hasnt come back yet. During the summer time I never get PM but its during the cold winter months that PM becomes a problem because its the cold air outside mixing with the warm air inside that causes moisture and allows the PM to form. Hope this help u".

GL with that.
 

facelift

This is the money you could be saving if you grow
Veteran
If you can grow as well as my last grow, I saw 82 grams from 3 plants dried. Wet was well over 250 grams. Close to an ounce per plant with 1200 watts of CFL. Plants finish at 3.5 feet.

I wouldn't use any numbers here unless if separates wet/dry weight. Another reason is people put a lot of work into their grows and although I would and have posted embarrassing harvests, some people have a reputation to uphold.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
"the 3% (hydrogen peroxide) is what u use to rid ur plants of PM. Straight up. no diluting. once the bubbles oxidize it turns into plain old h20. the bubbles is what kills the pm.
Please be sure to use clean H2O3, 3%..... not the stuff from the local market. That stuff has a chemical stabilizer that's not good for people.

Beauty supply shops carry 30 to 40% H2O3 that's stabilized with phosphoric acid. Clean.


Just don't go in and look suspicious... like you're cooking crack or something. Keep in mind that this stuff can be used to sterilize a lot of stuff, quite quickly and safely.... it breaks down into water. :D

Stay Safe! :tree:


p.s. WEAR GLOVES, Eye-Protection... and be extremely careful with 30% and 40% hydrogen peroxide! It's very concentrated and will oxidize organic material quite quickly. (It emits thick vapor!) I mix one capful from a quart container into a 1 gallon container of RO water. That makes me a gallon of approximately 3 to 6% peroxide. Works great. :D
 
I

Iron_Lion

I have 7 plants just like these 2 under a 250 in 3 gal bags. With the right training anything is possible.



Here is a group shot of 11 plants 500 watts
 
T

Tarus Bulbar

Nice work Iron Lion,dont be surprised if you get
some PM's about your set-up!! LOL!
You should be able to pull at least 2lbs with a 400watter!!!
A guy a know,has a cousin whos friend can do this no problem!!!
LOL! JK. Sorry
Id spend my time searchn 400 watt grows and use the knowledge
to gain experience!!! After some time and hard work you will be
laughing!! Goodluck bro
 

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