Thought I read that many guys are going to HPS right away at flower then bringing in some blue light in the second half or so of flower to add trich production. I may be wrong but that's what I remember. Might have read it in this thread.
Thought I read that many guys are going to HPS right away at flower then bringing in some blue light in the second half or so of flower to add trich production. I may be wrong but that's what I remember. Might have read it in this thread.
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whatissixbynine
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whatissixbynine
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Shipping was only $10 for me. 
Edit: I see it's changed for you too.
Edit: I see it's changed for you too.
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whatissixbynine
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whatissixbynine
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hoosierdaddy said:
Ya...that seems to be the consensus. But, in my convoluted thinking, the thought entered my head that I could use HPS (suplemented with UV) for the last two weeks of flower, to improve yield. But, thinking about it again, leads me to think it will only stretch the last stages of bud growth instead of fattening up.
stink. whistler said:
The warning is required by the effdeeay on any MH lamp sold in the US and technically the CMH is a MH lamp. Still, I think the operative word here is...attenuated. Although, the materials and/or coatings used, might reduce the incidence of UV light, it is going to be considerably less than it potential output.
However, and something to consider, I have a report somewhere that mentions, almost in passing, that less than 1 mmol/m2/s of UV is enough to trigger a plants defense response.
Sparky 6 said:
lol...That is just the way my brain works. I figured that if HPS was better at quantity and CMH was better at quality, I could go counter to conventional wisdom and add a bit of size to quality buds. Rather than a bit of quality to quantity of bud. I may still do it to see what's what (but, add some UV and eliminate EOD treatment), but, i have time to think about it until then.
whatissixbynine said:
I've got about 4500 hours on mine so far. Three or four more grows and I should be about due for new.
Oh absolutely- no one has all this figured out. I don't mean to inhibit your experiments at all- the more you all experiment and post the results the bigger database we all have to work with.
It is seriously aggravating they don't make a 1000w.
treewizard
Member
While the higher watt lights are better at converting raw power into usable light, you can still get better light coverage from multiple light sources. I saw a post where a guy was running 4 cmh and the plants under it were huge and didn't seem to be left wanting. Plus I'll bet that 1,200 watts of cmh would still throw less heat than a single 1000 watt hps.
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w.wonka
had some probs with my 400 and had to return it and told the lady that i would get back to her on what new ballest i wanted to pick up.. saw they had a power house 430 and was thinking about it but was leaning more too the switchable 400... then she said if i got the 430 that i could use the cmh 400 in the 430 ballest without a prob.. i know u can use 430 bulbs in a 400 but what she said true.. could i use the cmh 400 in that 430?? w.wonka
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w.wonka
anyone with any knowledge purtaining too using a 400 bulb in a 430 ballest?? w.wonka
So would one of these work?
http://htgsupply.com/viewproduct.asp?productID=47994
I'm looking to use a 250 for veg and would like to give the cmh a shot.
Thanks!
http://htgsupply.com/viewproduct.asp?productID=47994
I'm looking to use a 250 for veg and would like to give the cmh a shot.
Thanks!
SweetIndica2
Member
I highly doubt 3 - 400W CMH would put out less heat than one 1000W. I've owned several 400W's and 1000W's and there isn't nearly as big of a difference in heat as people make it out to be. Sure, the 1000W gets damn hot but the 400W's aren't exactly cool. They still are very hot themselves. One other reason i prefer the 1000W is because of light penetration and the pure light strength. My main colas are usually 11-13 Inches tall and 6-7 Inches thick, and even my lower budsites are nice, it will penetrate several feet into the canopy. I never got colas like that when i used 2 - 400W HPS.
Hello everybody, and hello Simba if you are still here
I use CMH 400W since 2007, and I love this bulb.
On the last run I tried to flower under HPS 600W to boost the yield, because there is not any CMH 600W.
And I had a very bad suprise : when I switched the bulb from CMH to HPS, around 3/4 weeks of 12/12 (at the end of the stretch), all my plants became hermies !
Of course I always use regular seeds from serious breeders, or well known clones like UK Cheese (Exodus cut), so the genetics are not the problem.
A friend explains me the exact problem :
When I switched from CMH to HPS, the amount of UV decreased very much. The plants use UV rays to estimate the power of the sunlight, so when the amount of UV decrease a lot, they think winter is already there, so they turn hermies to maximise chances of pollinisation.
In fact this changment of light caused an important abiotic stress, and a forced reproduction !
This problem does not happen when you swith from MH to HPS, because there are vey low UV, both in MH and HPS, and their spectrums are different but very poor.
So I have two solutions :
- to do all the cycle under CMH 400W, like on my previous runs, but the yield was not enough for me
- to do the grow cycle and stretch cycle under CMH 400W, then to switch to HPS 600W, BUT with adding 2 or more neon lights to improve the spectrum.
I hesitate between these neons lights, so I ask you, what do you think is the best between :
* néon "Purple" (25 000K), like this one (55W, T5HO) :
* néon for reptiles, very rich in UV, like Reptisun or Arcadia 12% (12% UV(B) and 30% UV(A)), like this one (T8, 30/36W) :
Thank you very much !!
Marcel
ps : I have a lot of pics under CMH 400W, I will add them to this thread soon !
I use CMH 400W since 2007, and I love this bulb.
On the last run I tried to flower under HPS 600W to boost the yield, because there is not any CMH 600W.
And I had a very bad suprise : when I switched the bulb from CMH to HPS, around 3/4 weeks of 12/12 (at the end of the stretch), all my plants became hermies !
Of course I always use regular seeds from serious breeders, or well known clones like UK Cheese (Exodus cut), so the genetics are not the problem.
A friend explains me the exact problem :
When I switched from CMH to HPS, the amount of UV decreased very much. The plants use UV rays to estimate the power of the sunlight, so when the amount of UV decrease a lot, they think winter is already there, so they turn hermies to maximise chances of pollinisation.
In fact this changment of light caused an important abiotic stress, and a forced reproduction !
This problem does not happen when you swith from MH to HPS, because there are vey low UV, both in MH and HPS, and their spectrums are different but very poor.
So I have two solutions :
- to do all the cycle under CMH 400W, like on my previous runs, but the yield was not enough for me
- to do the grow cycle and stretch cycle under CMH 400W, then to switch to HPS 600W, BUT with adding 2 or more neon lights to improve the spectrum.
I hesitate between these neons lights, so I ask you, what do you think is the best between :
* néon "Purple" (25 000K), like this one (55W, T5HO) :
or :PURple™ ? YES. Introducing the Nlite™ PURple™
PUR stands for Photosynthetically Useful Radiation.
Humans are most sensitive to green light (green curve below). Wide spectrum light with lots of green appears to us as white.
Plants use a part of the sun's spectral range to grow. This is known as the PLANT ACTION SPECTRUM. (yellow curve)
Plants look green because they reflect most green light, and absorb most red and blue.
Plants therefore respond more to light from the RED and BLUE ends of the plant action spectrum.
PURple™ lamps have this ideal spectrum shaped the way plants "see" the light. (white curve) ( a little spike of green is left to allow US to see plants lit by PURple)
Nlite™ lamps are made in 3 PUR colours. Plants change their growth response to different levels of these PUR colours :-
PURple (25000K) - The Ultimate 100% PUR. Purple is perfect for all stages of plant growth, germination, root development, tuber and bulb formation and gives lots of internodal growth, and budsites. Great for orchids, cacti, ethnobotanicals, coral, sea plants etc. A small amount of NEAR UV ensures good production of essential oils - Great for Basil and other aromatic herbs.
* néon for reptiles, very rich in UV, like Reptisun or Arcadia 12% (12% UV(B) and 30% UV(A)), like this one (T8, 30/36W) :
What is the best choice to add to HPS 600W, according to you ?? Purple bulb or reptile bulb ?!Arcadia D3 Reptile Light 12% Tubes are designed to ensure your reptile receives the UVB & UVA rays he needs for vitamin D3 synthesis and ultimately help avoid health problems such as metabolic bone disease. They are suitable for desert type set ups as they provide high level UVB rays equivalent to those experienced in cloudless desert environments.
The Arcadia tubes provide full spectrum lighting, meaning they simulate sunlight and will enhance your reptiles colourful appearance.
The Arcadia 12% D3 bulb will produce significant UVB rays at up to 20" away from your reptile. The light should be on for around 10 - 12 hours per day.
Arcadia UV tubes should be replaced around every 8 months to ensure optimum UVB levels are maintained.
Thank you very much !!
Marcel
ps : I have a lot of pics under CMH 400W, I will add them to this thread soon !
Are you sure you didn't get a bunch of hermie plants because of the change in heat stress from the 600w vs. the 400w?
I switch from my 400w CMH to my 400w HPS all the time and not a single hermaphrodite
I switch from my 400w CMH to my 400w HPS all the time and not a single hermaphrodite
Yeah I'd like to get some more info about that... I was planning on switching from CMH to HPS a few weeks into flower... this is the first I've ever heard of it causing hermies.
Last year I gave a CMH 400W bulb to a good friend, he switched to HPS 400W after 4 weeks of 12/12, and all his plants turned hermies, too. At this time I did not understand the cause was the difference of spectrum and UV amount.
And now I tried switching and I had exactly the same problem !
> MrBomDiggitty > When do you switch from CMH to HPS exactly ? have you tried on numerous strains ? because not 100% of the plants turned herm, but the majority was....
In fact, switching from CMH to HPS, is the same as switching from the outdoor sun to indoor HPS.... very important abiotic stress for the plant.
And now I tried switching and I had exactly the same problem !
> MrBomDiggitty > When do you switch from CMH to HPS exactly ? have you tried on numerous strains ? because not 100% of the plants turned herm, but the majority was....
In fact, switching from CMH to HPS, is the same as switching from the outdoor sun to indoor HPS.... very important abiotic stress for the plant.
