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grumblez
I noticed that was gone! Also, having issues posting original sized pix....thumbnails only for now...
150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......
- Thread starter Pipedream
- Start date
HOODOOBLUESMAN
Member
using a 150 watt hps [self contained -with reflector-store bought]
keeping in mind that im talking about 1 plant---
how tall off media can i most effectively grow 1 plant???
how wide can i effectively grow 1 plant???
how far from top of plant do i place lite?????
keeping in mind that im talking about 1 plant---
how tall off media can i most effectively grow 1 plant???
how wide can i effectively grow 1 plant???
how far from top of plant do i place lite?????
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HOODOO, your lamp is good for about 3 square feet of footprint, it has about a foot of penetration and you can get the bulb as close as a couple inches from the canopy (with good air flow and proper temp range.)
hgl
Active member
Here is a video of my box guys!
The 150w HPS is not plugged in yet... but will be soon enough!
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=124cynt&s=6
The 150w HPS is not plugged in yet... but will be soon enough!
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=124cynt&s=6
overgrownlurch
New member
D.B. - That grow wasn't at my place. I told him it wasn't really enough light for his space, though. At any rate the plant died of neglect and heat stress about a month into 12/12. But since I sold him my old lights, I'm thinking about putting together something of my own. I've still got a couple of 100 mh sitting around, and I'm on the lookout for another 150 hps. I have friends in various building trades, so with some patience I generally get my lights for free, or maybe buy 'em a six-pack in trade. Found a decent old dresser at the curb a couple of weeks ago and dragged it home, so it will eventually be converted into a cab. But first I have to refinish the damn thing so it will look like something that belongs in the house anyway. Having a ratty old piece of furniture when everything else is fairly nice would kill the stealthiness of the whole thing. I'm not in any great hurry, so I'll just take my time and do everything right. I want to have the whole cab dialed in as close to perfect as I can get it before putting it to work...maybe even do a test run of basil and cilantro, lol.
ogl, if you plan to take the finish down to the wood, Kutzit it a good finish remover. You paint it on with a brush, let it sit until a day or two, the finish will soften and you can scrape the majority off with a putty knife. Makes sanding lots easier. I used it to remove 10 or 12 layers of paint and the original lacquer finish. You need good venting for it, might be better to do it outside.
KolorBlind
Member
I can totally understand that OGL, but here's my 2 cents for ya.
I read, read, and read some more years back about growing. I got hundreds of ideas and lots of blueprints on notebook paper. I decided it wasnt worth the risk, and 5 years later decided it was
i went back to reading and reading and reading, got everything just how I wanted it, spent hundreds at home depot and walmart, etc. I got my closet all setup and "perfect". After starting my beans and planting, 3 weeks went by and they hadnt grown more than 2 leaves....I way over watered them
After all that reading I made such a noob mistake, I was watering 1 to 2 times a day HAHA!The moral of the story is that your plants growing will be the best teachers you have ever had. Im not saying jump right in with nothing ready, but at least try it out with the real deal when you think youre close. There is nothing like the life cycle of a plant to keep you motivated. You cant pause their growth so you must keep up
Do what you want, and get things as precise as you feel necessary, but just know that you wont start learning the important stuff till you take the real plunge.
Best of luck man, keep us updated!!
KB
sito007
Member
guys johnny has a question,,, he flush the plant and a lot of little micro white worms came up out the pot what the fuck is that?? not sure if its called fungus nats ?? J notice it happened when he feed it with fox-farm bloom i think its the guano anyone knows??
how to stop it. the plant looks fine but not sure what to think about this???
he'll post some pics later when the lamp is on
If I were Johnny, I would first treat the plant and soil with neem oil. Then I would prepare 30ml(1oz) of 3% drugstroe hydrogen peroxide in a gallon of good feed water. That solution should kill fungus gnats as well as provide a good shot of oxygen to the roots.
Some diatomaceous earth could help that soil as well.
Some diatomaceous earth could help that soil as well.
200$ sounds like a very lot to me, especially considering that you don't need to cover the whole grow room, lamp is enough !
here some French-made anti-detection covering : http://www.cultureindoor.com/catalog2/heat-reflect-xtracool-150-p-2906.html
Irie !
The medium is only 4'' tall with a 3'' diameter on em.
wow, looks pretty nice for such small pots, great work !
Here me box at 7.5wk 12/12
Irie !
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sito007
Member
THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK , JOHNNY WENT TO TOWN AND GOT SOME NEEM OIL AND THEY ALMOST GONE.
HOPE THIS DOES MESS THE LEMON SKUNK WHEN J IS CHOPPING THEM IN TEN DAYS?
sito007
Member
HERE'S JOHNNY UPDATE AND LAST RUN ATTEMPT , DIDNT WANT TO PUT ALOT OF PICS ON HERE FOR RESPECT OF TAKING ALOT OF SPACE ON THIS THREAD. MY FELLOW GROW FRIENDS CAN CATCH THE ACTION HERE:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=3220849&posted=1#post3220849
PEACE.
If you were only ten days from harvest, probably best to have done nothing.
Don't spray neem on your buds.
If you have already, dunk them in a bucket of water and clean them off real well just after trimming and before drying. Don't leave the neem on the buds.
Don't spray neem on your buds.
If you have already, dunk them in a bucket of water and clean them off real well just after trimming and before drying. Don't leave the neem on the buds.
sito007
Member
i just mixed the neem oil with water and used it as flushing i didnt spray the leafs.
but i only did this one time. so far it doesn't look stress or look like the gnats did harm to it. i will finish her off with gnats if any are still in the pot.
i will use the neem oil regularly in the next cycle to prevent any gnats comming again.
but i only did this one time. so far it doesn't look stress or look like the gnats did harm to it. i will finish her off with gnats if any are still in the pot.
i will use the neem oil regularly in the next cycle to prevent any gnats comming again.
sito007
Member
This is the last monstersito experiment" three plants sog style in one gallon pot" .
HERE'S JOHNNY UPDATE AND LAST RUN ATTEMPT ,
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.p...=1#post3220849
PEACE.
_________
HERE'S JOHNNY UPDATE AND LAST RUN ATTEMPT ,
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.p...=1#post3220849
PEACE.
_________
GlassHoler
Member
Small cab Pron 
EasyRyders Day 25
DieselRyders Day 42
Small but super dense
EasyRyders Day 25
DieselRyders Day 42
Small but super dense
overgrownlurch
New member
D.B.- Yeah, I'm planning on taking it down to bare wood. I've got a product similar to what you described, called Citristrip. Sounds like about the same thing, according to the directions, anyway. Even with stripper, it's still gonna be a bitch to sand some parts. It's got some carving at the bottom that I might have to use the Dremel on. Then I'll stain it a nice pecan or honey oak color and put on about 3 coats of polyurethane. And I have a buddy doing a demolition job on an old school building, says he can score me one of their old 150 hps security floods, just owe him a sixer for it- can't beat a deal like that!
ogl, I'd get some lacquer thinner too. The Citristrip will help remove the finish and L thinner will wash off the gunk. Use a stiff brush on the carving and wash/wipe-down with L thinner, it should clean up as easy as the rest. L thinner is one of the most flammable solvents. Extinguish all ignition sources before using. Fumes are powerful so keep ventilation up. I wouldn't recommend it if it wasn't necessary and in responsible hands it's no more dangerous than gasoline.
This is just my opinion but I'd avoid the dremel.
You can refinish an L thinner wash/wipe-down without sanding. This allows you to sand only the necessary spots and saves long hours of prep. Too much sanding may alter the natural patina and blending varying stain colors to match is a pain in the ass. I wouldn't worry about imperfections as much as having to blend light spots due to sanding through the patina.
If you select a penetrating stain, you might want to consider a pre-stain sealer. Sanding sealer seals the wood surface and prevents over staining. If you use non-penetrating die stain, a sealer isn't necessary. Best wishes with the project.
This is just my opinion but I'd avoid the dremel.
You can refinish an L thinner wash/wipe-down without sanding. This allows you to sand only the necessary spots and saves long hours of prep. Too much sanding may alter the natural patina and blending varying stain colors to match is a pain in the ass. I wouldn't worry about imperfections as much as having to blend light spots due to sanding through the patina.
If you select a penetrating stain, you might want to consider a pre-stain sealer. Sanding sealer seals the wood surface and prevents over staining. If you use non-penetrating die stain, a sealer isn't necessary. Best wishes with the project.
overgrownlurch
New member
Yeah, the instructions said to wipe down with mineral spirits after scraping...L thinner would accomplish the same thing. Using the dremel would be a last resort, but I know to be careful sanding in general, as I don't want to sand right through the thin veneer. Hopefully the stripper wash will be sufficient. Depending on how it looks after stripping, I may just use linseed oil instead of stain.
