Red Spidermites?

[superpedro]

The normal two-spotted spidermite, "Tetranychus urticae" aka "the Borg" comes in both red and green/yellowish. The cold half of the year they often appear in red.
From my last grow, ordinary color:

I found this picture on the web of a red spidermite on the left, and a predator mite in the right side of the picture for comparison.

This is a close up picture I took of a predator mite in my last grow.

BTW, I found a short treatment of high level CO2 with no light, to be as effective as any spray I ever tried. Predator mites was released as protection afterward and I haven't seen them since.

 

[CalBear4Life]

The normal two-spotted spidermite, "Tetranychus urticae" aka "the Borg" comes in both red and green/yellowish. The cold half of the year they often appear in red.
From my last grow, ordinary color:

I found this picture on the web of a red spidermite on the left, and a predator mite in the right side of the picture for comparison.

This is a close up picture I took of a predator mite in my last grow.

BTW, I found a short treatment of high level CO2 with no light, to be as effective as any spray I ever tried. Predator mites was released as protection afterward and I haven't seen them since.

Thanks for the information...that last one you took looks to be similar to the coloring of mine. The treatments I have been using seem to have made a world of difference. I do not see any adults whatsoever, but I haven't checked the leaves with the microscope for eggs (the Radioshack microscope is kind of a piece). They'll be back though, they always COME BACK. I am going to pick up some Azamax today as most people seem to say that it is amazing. I have been keeping my temps at 65 degrees to inhibit the mites, I am taking every possible precaution, seems to be the only way!

 

[TheGreenReaper]

Greanreaper, you have used azatrol? like in the resivoir? i come from the school of thought that no matter what and if you cant see them they are still there, so basically keeping populations to a minimum is the key here. most IPM (intergrated pest manamement) that industrial farmers use are almost always a foliar spray, water treatment and a natural predatory insect, relying soley on one product is futile i believe and the only way to go is a multi-pronged attack

Yeah, Morrisgreenberg, I have tried drenches. I dont use a recirculating rez..handwater coco. But I have used neem on a weekly basis before (both drench, spray, and both), azatrol, floramite (this shit works, but why spend $$ unless LAST resort), ZT, numerous oils, pyrethrum, sprays, gases, drenches, predator mites, etc. I found everything was just playing games with them except for my current process. Floramite works too, I just try to use less toxic and cheaper measures if I can. I do agree on a rotation of different measures to really weaken them though Morrisgreenberg. I have found certain genetic lineages of mites to have varying degrees of tolerance to different things depending upon geography. Where I live, seriously...it is pretty well know any neem product isnt going to kill em, might know em back a little...but then..sigh...they just come back stronger.

I know I toot the spinosad horn loud and alot. But I really found it kills these things fantastically. It is cheap, organic, and they dont seem to have any tolerance at all. It kills on contact, and if they ingest to feed it kills em.

Good job on lowering temps. That will help ALOT to slow the F*&%^$& down.

I dont care how you get rid of 'em, just do it. If Morrisgreenbergs method works, do it. If mine works, do it. If another local grower is doing something that works, just do it. Please, treat this almost like an antibiotic treatment. If you arent going to finish it out (spraying/drenching/fogging on strict schedule till battle is won), it only hurts you next time around when new generations are immune to your methods.