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initial potassium deficiency

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
The coco products we use are prepared differently. Some have a high salt (na) content. Some have been rinsed for salt by the manufacturers or taken from more inland sites. Some have been pre-loaded with nutrient ions to satisfy the cation exchange capacity, some have not. Some probably have initially higher or lower cec's. Some will have different initial medium ph's. Some folks use tap waters of varying content. Some folks use ro water. These factors and others affect the rate of coco's adsorption of specific ions. Until these factors are balanced and in proportion the cec may not be satisfied.

All over the coco forums there are photos of plants showing what looks like either mg or k deficiencies. Occasionally a nitrogen problem. Some are severe, some are less pronounced. This seems to be occurring in the face of high quality nutrients.

Some, like mine, show up only immediately after transplant into coco, some plague the unfortunate grower for the duration of the grow.

I'm using the atami b'cuzz product. I rinse thoroughly with lots of tap water. Let that drain. Then pre-charge the medium with a solution of 750 ppm flora nova bloom, 100 ppm yara viva brand calcium nitrate, and 50 ppm magnesium sulfate, all at the .5 conversion. So ec 1.8 total. I water with this solution immediately after transplant and throughout veg so far. My reservoirs are filled with the same solution (passive plant killer thread in hydro forum). My oldest plant in 100% coco is still only 5 weeks.

What happens to my plants is that they show what looks like a slight k deficiency within 3 days on the lower leaves only. With mine it's not too bad, just a little but noticeable. By the end of the first week it's not happening anymore. The damaged leaves are still showing, of course, but all new growth is fine. And then the plants grow aggressively with no further displays. Very nice, healthy looking plants.

I am running multiple media experiments and have plants in 100% turface, turface/coco mixes with light amounts of coco, perlite/coco at 70/30, perlite/turface/coco at 40/40/20, and now the last 5 plants in 100% coco only. Only the 100% coco plants do this, so I feel it is a coco specific problem.

Coco has a lot of k inherent in the tissue fiber itself. This is bound in the fiber and is released slowly over the course of the grow. Coco also has an affinity for adsorbing k, ca, and mg, especially.

I have noticed most folks using a calmag supplement of some kind. When we add calmag we are usually adding quite a bit of n as well.

Recently I broke out an old chart I have showing nutrient antagonism and stimulation reactions. From studying this chart I think that we are a little short on potassium initially but with repeated watering with a stronger solution this corrects as the medium adsorbs nutrients.

So perhaps the severity of these displays is dependent upon all the variables listed above. Type of coco, base nutrients, supplements, etc. all play a role.

What I think we need is an initial k boost. The atami product may already have it and I could be washing it out with heavy rinsing. When I loaded the first coco plant I watered all of my solution through the medium to fill the reservoir below. My input solution was 950 ppm, when I had run approximately 4.5 gallons into the reservoir I checked the res ppm. It was around 1550 at .5. so it obviously picked something up passing through the medium.

I have also read a maximum yield article recently about how potassium may be the most critical element and that most nutes are lacking the proper ratio.

This is all theoretical of course and i'm sure I have missed some important aspects, but there are a lot of very good gardeners here and I think between us all we can solve this little puzzle.

The first link is to the chart I mentioned, please take a long hard look at that, especially the relationships between n,p,k, ca, and mg.

The second is the max yield article.


http://www.apal.com.au/site/Default.../APAL PLANT NUTRIENT INTERACTIONS July 08.pdf


http://www.maximumyield.com/article_sh_db.php?articleID=464&yearVar=2009&issueVar=August
 

chr0nicxs

Member
Nice post, Thanks for info. I've read if you vary your PH level throughout the whole grow you can allow your plants whatever it is deficient in at the time? from 5.7-6.1. The post I read could be wrong but it sure makes sense..
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
well, i may have found the answer in the thread by member onegreenday.

Originally Posted by wygram
"To prepare the husk we first hydrate the bale in two 32 gallon containers at least overnight , and then transfer the hydrated husk and excess water to a second container that has had a large number of holes drilled into the bottom, and about six inches up the sides. After the husk drains, a steady stream of water is washed through until it appears to run clear from the container. Then the husk is again transferred back to the solid container and again covered with water with a few ounces each of Calcium Nitrate and Magnesium Sulfate (Cal-Mag in our case) added at least overnight. The draining and washing procedure is repeated again using pure water, with the final rinse being extensive. At this point measurements have revealed virtually no significant leachable salts and a pH just slightly below neutral. The conditioning with calcium and magnesium is done because of the moderate Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the coconut husk. Sodium (Na) and Potassium (K) ions are strongly bound to the CHC. Laboratory comparative analysis of extracts of coconut husk products using distilled water versus a barium chloride solution demonstrate that as much as 2/3 of the Na and K may not be leached by water alone. What then happens is that you cation exchange calcium and magnesium for sodium and potassium in your early fertilized irrigations, creating possible calcium and magnesium deficiencies and sodium and potassium excesses. If you irrigate heavily as we recommend, the problem is quite temporary and limited. Unfortunately, it seems to be more and more common to hear about people using less extensive irrigation practices, and under these circumstances problems may arise. The addition of calcium and magnesium in the wash stages allows for cation exchange to occur then, creating a more balanced state from the start."

if this is correct the problem is corrected, at least for atami products, by more watering, because i rely on sub-irrigation for most of the plants needs i may not have been top watering enough initially.
 

EddieShoestring

Florist
Veteran
tx for the info, Delta, that diagram is interesting.
For what it's worth -i've been using minimal pk13/14, if any at all, in coir over the past couple of years as it often seems to do more harm than good

eddieS
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
thanks for the input, folks! i put a large clone (8-9") in another 5 gal container two days ago and have been watering heavily about every 4 hrs while i'm awake so we'll see if it starts again. i'm recycling the solution described above from it's own res with a baster, so it's getting hit pretty good with N, Ca, and Mg.

it looks like a potassium deficiency but if the above statement is correct it is actually an excess so i would have just aggravated the problem by adding any K.

if it is going to happen it should start any time now. so we'll see.
 

BigTop

Member
Nice post bro... thanks for the clips by wygram...

Basically found that w the preflushing/precharging, can get the plants to hit the ground running... worst case, you lose a week during the initial d2w sessions. Just finding the balance to your room/girls. Peace bro!
 
i fertilize from the first few days onward with a mild 6/9 modified lucas cut in half with water. no more problems, before i did this always had a little early yellowing that u just never see in a soil grow if u have any clue as to what your doing. it usually goes away via tap water and the nutes within it in about a week but i skip the wait now and just fert right of the bat, plants can take it, so i give it.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
well, i can report that the increased frequency of watering seems to have worked. i have only one bottom leaf showing a problem and it is very slight.

maybe a more thorough rinse is called for. i'll try that next.
 

*mistress*

Member
Veteran
well, i can report that the increased frequency of watering seems to have worked. i have only one bottom leaf showing a problem and it is very slight.

maybe a more thorough rinse is called for. i'll try that next.
potassium very available to plant & very high amount in most hydro ferts...
however, high potassium may inhibit magnesium absorption, which shows 1st in lower leaves...

maybe not K+ deficiency, but too much K+, which not letting enough mg+ thru?

maybe try media drench (1/2-1 volume of container) w/ only epsom salts... see if condition change...?

enjoy your garden!
 

therootsofwisdo

New member
Ya I am having this problem too. Some just took off and some are looking K deficient. The ones that took off have a little burning. I initially thought this was because I switch them from hydroton to coco. It has now been over two weeks. The first wave I planted look amazing. Another variable is I have two different brands of coco (botanicare and optimum). A few I potted in each and some I mixed. I didn't label them as I think both are reputable brands that would not sell inferior products. Another variable is temperatures have been high and humidity low. With all these variables it is hard to figure it out. The one thing is one was a cutting planted directly after rooting and it looks amazing! So it could just be the transplant shock and the plants still no liked being switched. But does it ever look exactly like potassium deficiency. Oh I was using Canna coco A and B (250ppm) up till a few days ago and have just run out. Now I have switched to PBP just because I have a lot of it kicking around.

I find it interesting that canna recommends that you only water with rhizotonic for the first water or very low nutrients. Maybe they know that there is a lot of salts still left in the coco no matter how well they process it and they need to be washed out. Just K deficiency is so odd as one greenhouse supplier of coco recommends not even using potassium for the first week of use of their slabs.
 
C

Carl Carlson

botanicare suggests to use camg+ for two weeks after transplanting with the cocogro
 
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