My Seedlings Have Leaf Problems..pics

[BudSiteBob]

Hey Doc. All my seedlings are looking alright. a bunch of them have this leaf problem goin on though.

the problem seems to be workin its way from the bottom up, most the newer growth seems healthy but im a little worried.

some of them look like a nute or ph problem and others just have a gray/brown(Dark) thing going on and theyre cripsy/dead i dont know what it is.

related or not i do have tiney gnats flying around... i killed like 3-4 in the room so far.. they look like tiny mosquitos with out blood suckin tubes.

this is a good pic of the dark colored dry crispy leaves... i dont know why there doin this. temps were low at 69/70f i just got them up to a steady 77 though.



These are both pictures of the more nute/ph problem lookin thing going on. again i dont know it. the soil mix is 1/3 top soil 1/3 sphagnum peat moss 1/3 perlite... has always worked well for me.

im feeding/watering every 3-4 days with 24hour tap water... pbp grow at the instructed seedling dose of 7ml/gal but have recently doing 8ml and last watering i went 10ml/gal as there starting to get bigger and are a good 3 -4 weeks old at least.

i also put a drop or two of superthrive and like 2-3ml calmag (half rec dose) since im using 24h tap water.





A few of them also have this going on... im not sure if its just new growth color or if its too light green. or even what too light green would mean.



Thanks for looking i hope some one can tell me whats going on.

 

[Pistil_Party09]

i think im having the same problem....but i just transplanted...im about 4 weeks into veg now...

 

[EvilTwin]

Hi Bob,
They sure look burnt to me. The variation could be related to different strain response. Flush and back off the feeding. Isn't there nutrition in the soil?

Also, you made this comment: "also put a drop or two of superthrive and like 2-3ml calmag (half rec dose) since im using 24h tap water."

Shouldn't need calmag with tap water...it's when you're using RO that you need to supplement. Looks to me like an example of the classic "noob overdoing it syndrome" lol
ET

 

[BudSiteBob]

one said overfert and one said under fert... one said flush and back off nutes and one sais they need phosphorus.

any body got anything on the light lime green thing? is that just new growth light green or is that some kind of deficiency or lock out?

i went looking in the guide to sick plants and the dark crispness on the leaves looks an awful lot like the phosphorous deficiency pictures in there.

i never rinse or flush any of my soil or admentments..... could this be causing a problem?

i think ill sort of take advise from both of you and flush them.... then the next time i water ill add a lil bloom ferts or something.

 

[EvilTwin]

Hi Bob,
P deficiency and nute burn can look similar. Making a diagnosis is more complex then just looking at the leaf. It also involved the history of what's been going on. You've provided scanty info so there's a certain amount of guesswork involved.

P gets locked out in acidic soils. Any idea where your ph sits? Perhaps you could measure runoff water and measure the ph there. You do have 1/3 peat which is a fairly acidic media. But you'd have to be way low to lock out P.

Also go over to the guide...
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688

...and read about P deficiency. See if anything there fits with how it developed. Part of why I felt it was nute burn is that they are seedlings and as immature plants, they'll burn easier.
ET

 

[BudSiteBob]

Thanks evil twin. I appreciate your time and insight on the subject.

I will measure and run off and post back on that.

peace

 

[MynameStitch]

Hi Bob,
They sure look burnt to me. The variation could be related to different strain response. Flush and back off the feeding. Isn't there nutrition in the soil?

Also, you made this comment: "also put a drop or two of superthrive and like 2-3ml calmag (half rec dose) since im using 24h tap water."

Shouldn't need calmag with tap water...it's when you're using RO that you need to supplement. Looks to me like an example of the classic "noob overdoing it syndrome" lol
ET

:fully agrees with:

Also get rid of the pests; only causes more stress on your babies.
Get some sand on the top soil and get some no pest strips as long as you are not living in the space with your grow.

Why are you so heavy with nutes? You also burned your flowering gals very badly.....

 

[BudSiteBob]

:fully agrees with:

Also get rid of the pests; only causes more stress on your babies.
Get some sand on the top soil and get some no pest strips as long as you are not living in the space with your grow.

Why are you so heavy with nutes? You also burned your flowering gals very badly.....

i dunno why i started doin that... for some reason i thought cause i was using pbp the 1/2-3/4 strength rec dose rule didnt apply.

some kinda greedy disorder. i didnt even think of it till u called me on it.

this is like an intervention.

lol thanks guys i appreciate it. ill flush them, measure run off for ph n ppm and ill back off the nutes.

take my 10 steps, it starts with admittance.

 

[mrjohn64s]

hey bob do u have good drain holes in those pepsi bottles? and did they just come out of a clone box and rite under the hot lights?

 

[jim_browsky]

Looks like pH issues causing lockout, coupled with overfeeding.
pH your nute /water mix to 6.0-6.5. If you feed them like you feed
your flowering ladies, they will soon die. As far as fungus gnats,
they are easily controllable with the sticky traps that unwind. Catch
the adults, no more eggs eventually. They work for me in about 2
days. The gnats aren't really that bad, annoying though.

 

[BudSiteBob]

hey bob do u have good drain holes in those pepsi bottles? and did they just come out of a clone box and rite under the hot lights?

yes i poke a nice triangle in 5 different places ( on the bottom side of the 5 triangle shapes that are on the bottom. good drainage for sure.

and they're seedlings, and they've been vegging in those pics for a good week or two.

 

[BudSiteBob]

Ive been overfeeding and not watching PH. Thanks to everyone for helping me realize it. I will fix this immediately. My plants will my happier and healthier thanks to everyone's help here.

 

[boroboro]

That's good to hear BudSiteBob! Could you update with happier pics in a week or two? It's good to see an overfeeding problem fixed, especially with your quality photos. Thanks.

 

[MynameStitch]

You could also get some mosquito dunks and use 1/2 dunk per gallon of water and by by larva.

The sticky traps only use them if you are not around your plants for more than 4 hours at a time, cause they are toxic.

 

[mrjohn64s]

cool keep us up to date

 

[jim_browsky]

The sticky traps only use them if you are not around your plants for more than 4 hours at a time, cause they are toxic.

These are what I was talking about. They are non-toxic and I keep
them up all the time. The no pest strip on the other hand. . .

 

[MynameStitch]

The ones you spoke of are indeed different
SHould have been in more details

 

[BudSiteBob]

I wont promise anything cause i don't wanna upset any one if i forget or become too busy but i will certainly try and remember to post happy healthy pics in a week or two... they might be in there final home by then too! very exciting.

 

[BudSiteBob]

STITCH - hey will you elaborate a lil bit on the mosquito dunks, i dont know what your talking about. sounds key though.

 

[BudSiteBob]

Jim Browsky - im having a lil trouble finding it... so if you happen to know it i would love to know how much ml of each part... grow bloom calmag i should be using for each phase.. veg / early flower/ flower/ late flower.

ill also try to figure it out with the calculator but its gonna be a little hard for me as im new with a tds meter and am not sure how to tell the difference between ppms of the diff elements because each part (grow/bloom/cal mag) all have N P and K in them.. well for the most part any ways. u know what i mean.. and that chart instructs me to measure for example during mature flowering 100 N 100 P and 200K ... i guess maybe GH comes in those elements or something... i dont know anything about GH.

my guess right now would be like 4-8 ml grow for the veg cycle depending on they're maturity. and 5-15ml bloom for flower depending on hydro/soil and they're maturity... all im sure of right now is that i need way way less then what i was givin them.

so if you either have a good amount in ML/gal already figured out for each phase or a helpful tip in figuring it out that would be great. thanks again. peace.

OK literally 5 minutes after posting this i figured out how to use that calculator... im good now... please feel free to post good pbp ml/gal amounts for the diff phases if you know each one so i can compare thank you.

ok ive used the calculator in the link you provided me with and these are the ml/gal it suggests i use for each phase and the npk brake downs that those give me.

1st two weeks- 4ml/gal pbp grow and 6ml/gal pbp bloom = 72ppm- N, 34ppm -P and 115ppm-K

Veg Cycle - 12ml pbp grow and 12ml pbp bloom (whoa seems like alot!) = 180ppm-N, 78ppm-P and 269ppm-K

Flowering- 15ml pbp bloom... just like u said. = 96ppm-N, 63ppm-P (should be 100, can be made up with additives/bloom boosters right?) and 199ppm-k just 1 ml below targeted min. also raised by boosters.

well.... i hope i did it right... tell me if that sounds kosher to you.... 12ml of grow and bloom for veg seems like a lot and i had no idea veg required more nutes then flowering... thought was other way around. (except for a little less phosphorus).

maybe my seedlings have a phos deficiency after all as i'm not using any bloom ferts and apparently i should be using equal parts.