How much is too much spraying?
- Thread starter rr14
- Start date
Pretty sure neem oil works on both, that would save you a spraying. It's probably the most effective against the borg, which will be harder to control than the PM.
happyhi
Member
teaspoon of einstein oil few drops of soap bio deg to spread.
in one litre, mix it well and use it all, don't let it sit around.
should work for both problems. do it every 3 days for a bit you
will see the magic.
peace/hh
make sure the soap isn't antibacterial.
rr14
I use Dyna-Gro Neem Tree Seed Oil @ 1 tsp. per quart. For an emulsifier and surfactant I would recommend using human food-grade yucca extract [http://www.tandjenterprises.com/yucca.htm] because it does not contain any preservatives that would interfere with the microbes on your leaves and plants. You mix 1 tsp. of yucca extract to the 1 tsp. of neem oil and mix completely and mix with 1 quart of tepid water (i.e. less than 70F)
An easier method is to use a liquid silicon product. I use Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt but any of them will work (i.e. Silica Blast, et al). You mix the same amount of liquid silicon as you do the neem oil, i.e. 1 tsp. of each, mix, add 1 quart of tepid water.
Both yucca extract and liquid silicon provide added defenses against PM and spider mites.
I spray the plants in the veg room 2x per week and follow the same through the 3rd week in flower.
The benefit of using neem oil in conjunction with either yucca extract or liquid silicon is that it is not invasive. You're actually feeding your plants as well as providing them with the ability to eradicate and provide defenses against a return.
HTH
CC
El Toker
Member
I wouldn't spray neem oil on flowering plants, it kills a lot of the pistils. I found out the hard way. You could get away with wiping the underside of the leaves with a cloth damp with neem oil just before lights out, keeping it away from the flowers.
However, that's just fire-fighting, you need to make your plants as uncomfortable as possible for the little f....s. Keep your temps low, particularly during lights out. Less importantly, but still worth doing, is to keep your humidity between 40 and 60%. The borg like it warm and dry 24 hours a day that's why they destroy house plants but generally aren't a problem for outdoor plants, make it uncomfortable for them and they simply won't thrive. A few hours a day below 15C will definitely slow down their life cycles and allow you to manage them before the harvest.
When you harvest, completely remove all vegetable matter from the grow area, clean it from top to bottom with detergent and then again with neem oil. Then leave a light and some heat on. That way it will encourage all the eggs that are hibernating to hatch and find that there's nothing to eat.
I've heard that Ivermectin is a good miticide and can be used up to a couple of days before harvest. I've got some sat on a shelf somewhere, never used it, because once I sorted my environment out they never came back.
However, that's just fire-fighting, you need to make your plants as uncomfortable as possible for the little f....s. Keep your temps low, particularly during lights out. Less importantly, but still worth doing, is to keep your humidity between 40 and 60%. The borg like it warm and dry 24 hours a day that's why they destroy house plants but generally aren't a problem for outdoor plants, make it uncomfortable for them and they simply won't thrive. A few hours a day below 15C will definitely slow down their life cycles and allow you to manage them before the harvest.
When you harvest, completely remove all vegetable matter from the grow area, clean it from top to bottom with detergent and then again with neem oil. Then leave a light and some heat on. That way it will encourage all the eggs that are hibernating to hatch and find that there's nothing to eat.
I've heard that Ivermectin is a good miticide and can be used up to a couple of days before harvest. I've got some sat on a shelf somewhere, never used it, because once I sorted my environment out they never came back.
El Toker
You're joking, right?
Ivermectin is an agent used to rid mammals of worms. You want to smoke this sh*t? Seriously?
For me I'm into growing medicine and not so much about growing dope.
But take a certain peace because there are other clowns on this board who advocate using Avid and/or Floramite because as they will tell you that growing 'dope' is what it's about. F*ck health. F*ck integrity. F*ck honesty.
It's just about growing 'dope' - as expected.
Thanks for sharing regardless.
CC
El Toker
Member
It's used as a medicine for humans, so has been extensively tested for toxicity. I'd hazard a guess that there aren't any other miticides on the market that have been passed for use on humans as well. I know it's not perfect, but then neither is smoking a cocktail of Carbon Monoxide and thousands of other chemicals to get a hit from the THC and I'm happy to do that.
If you keep mites beat down to a level, they'll happily live out their lives on the bottom of one sunleaf. They only move when there's no more room. They don't even really like the topside of the leaf. I don't even think they really like buds much. They prefer sunleaf undersides more than any other part. My point is, you can concentrate the 'fight' there on those sunleaf undersides without ever spraying (or rubbing, or dipping) any other part of the plant, providing you don't let the population get it's momentum going. If plants are large and in flower, individual leaves can still be dipped in a bowl of neem solution and rinsed a few minutes later. Dipping in neem really sets the little basterds back quite a bit, even maybe killing some eggs in the bargain. Also, a leaf can be tipped sideways by cupping it in your palm and sprayed. That way the underside can be completely soaked and the overspray directed to the side where it won't get near the buds. When you don't soak leaf tops, it seems like the leafs ability to transpire is not so comprimised, and damage is kept to a minimum. When I use the bottom only spray method, I don't rinse afterwards like I do with a dip.
I guess I don't need to mention that I'm obviously with CC on this issue, and not about to start using ivermectin soon.
I guess I don't need to mention that I'm obviously with CC on this issue, and not about to start using ivermectin soon.
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