This is my 1st go round w/ growing and I am very near my 1st harvest, I was wondering if this is something that should be done in the last 72hrs? I remember my friend who recently harvested mentioned it. My search turned up nada, but i may just be a dumbass. in any event sry if there is a post like this out there somewhere.
24hrs light then 48hrs Dark before harvest?
- Thread starter mrblack03
- Start date
MickTheBrag
Active member
i might do 24 hours light for one day then harvest. but theres no way id do 48 hours dark before harvest.
MrBubbakush717
Member
Shock ripeining is very effective and i have done this on my last grows , The last 2 weeks i flush with plain water ph 5.8-6.2 and have zero-20 ppm in the water i hate harsh smoke that burns my throat etc... Then you take very cold water and for the last 3 days keep them in total darkness and water them the ice cold water and you will be amazed at the increase in aroma potency and heavy resin 
reckon
Member
I think they get stinkier in the dark, and that long dark period without any light, I think concentrates the "aroma".
I still do it after reading about it YEARS ago in a "ask ed" reply in HT, but I just go 48 hours of dark, then cut em down.
I REALLY love doing it with the purples, as I think it really brings out that "blueberry pancake syrup" taste you can get once they've cured long enough.
I still do it after reading about it YEARS ago in a "ask ed" reply in HT, but I just go 48 hours of dark, then cut em down.
I REALLY love doing it with the purples, as I think it really brings out that "blueberry pancake syrup" taste you can get once they've cured long enough.
MrBubbakush717
Member
I read here that if you go dark before harvest it will make the plant put out more resin. I dint do it on my first harvest but i'll be doing it on the second on.
Yes your correct i refuse to do it any other way if you want medical quality and bomb dank you gotta take every step possible to insure a potent crop even down to the last 3 days before harvest
This is how i do. And sometimes i have let plants dry still on the stem in dry soil before curing. When they are done just kill the lights and stop the watering for however long you want before cutting.
LUDA.
S
sparkjumper
I've tried it and have seen no difference except the hairs may get a little redder.What I find effective during harvest time is to water the night before and cut and hang fully hydrated plants.This ensures a slower drying and curing time and makes for a btter smoke.I like to use a dehumidifier when hanging fully hydrated plants to avoid any mold issues.On the other hand if you want a fast dry for some reason,harvest and hang a dehydrated plant.I just have never seen the effectiveness except of 48 hours dark and I have tried many times. Maybe cosmetic changes but no changes in potency.I dont believe after taking great care to grow out the plants perfectly in the last 48 hours of darkness a greater amount of resins will magically appear. It would be nice though!Neither Bog or god could make me think otherwise from my experience and common sense if you ask me
^^^^^ couldnt have said it better
By. MisterJ.P Last edited by:MisterJ.P Viewed: 3554 times Rated by 2897 users.
GROWLINQ
Keep the drying area dark, the air well circulated and exchanged with fans, the temperatures in the lower 70's and the humidity between 50-60% with a dehumidifier, if necessary. The bud will smoke smoother if it takes around a week for the moisture to evaporate, quicker drying will harshen the taste and degrade the burning properties.
After drying, any variety benefits from a slow cure. Curing involves atmospheric oxygen to metabolize cannabinnoids and terpenes into more desirable forms. After the harvest is dry enough to create a snapping sound when stems are bent, the material is placed in sealed glass containers. Once the oxygen is consumed within them, the process slows to a halt.
The jars should be opened and aired out once or twice every 24 hours. If you smoke a bud as soon as it is drys, it is nothing like it becomes after a nice slow dry and cure. The buds must remain dry with no moisture from inner stems still dispersing, kept out of direct light and the ambient temperature/humidity should be comfortable for humans. I usually vacuum seal and refrigerate after 3 weeks, but have extended the curing time to 5 weeks, if discernable improvements were still occuring. No bud should be smoked before its time.
Peeling stems for a faster drying period.
Peeling stems is a much quicker way to dry the product. The first day of drying i would normally cut all fan leaves off and score the main stem with a sharp knife. Peeling the stem exposes the inside of the stem to air, cutting drying time by 20%. You can do this scoring ritual everyday for 5 days until all is dry.
LUDA.
GROWLINQ
Keep the drying area dark, the air well circulated and exchanged with fans, the temperatures in the lower 70's and the humidity between 50-60% with a dehumidifier, if necessary. The bud will smoke smoother if it takes around a week for the moisture to evaporate, quicker drying will harshen the taste and degrade the burning properties.
After drying, any variety benefits from a slow cure. Curing involves atmospheric oxygen to metabolize cannabinnoids and terpenes into more desirable forms. After the harvest is dry enough to create a snapping sound when stems are bent, the material is placed in sealed glass containers. Once the oxygen is consumed within them, the process slows to a halt.
The jars should be opened and aired out once or twice every 24 hours. If you smoke a bud as soon as it is drys, it is nothing like it becomes after a nice slow dry and cure. The buds must remain dry with no moisture from inner stems still dispersing, kept out of direct light and the ambient temperature/humidity should be comfortable for humans. I usually vacuum seal and refrigerate after 3 weeks, but have extended the curing time to 5 weeks, if discernable improvements were still occuring. No bud should be smoked before its time.
Peeling stems for a faster drying period.
Peeling stems is a much quicker way to dry the product. The first day of drying i would normally cut all fan leaves off and score the main stem with a sharp knife. Peeling the stem exposes the inside of the stem to air, cutting drying time by 20%. You can do this scoring ritual everyday for 5 days until all is dry.
LUDA.
Makes no difference.
reckon
Member
your TOTALLY misunderstanding the trick here,........
POTENCY INCREASE?!? who ever said THAT? (in this thread or otherwise) potency is inherent in the genetics of THAT STRAIN.
48 hours of darkness, LIGHTENS the "green" taste, sort of like blanching leeks or belgian endive before harvest, all this is going to do is make it taste and smell more intense, and to lessen the "green chlorophyll taste"
more resin? or an INCREASE IN RESIN PRODUCTION??,...again, who ever said this?
by blanching the plants (48 hours of darkness), and not watering, you are dehydrating the plant, which will bring out lipid based flavors and aromas, and reduce water based flavors and aromas.
"PURELY ESTHETIC"?,...well yeah, who wants to drink shitty wine or beer, when you can get "CRAFTED" stuff for the same price? (or amount of effort)
so I go 48 hours of dark before every harvest, purely because I think it makes the buds taste, and smell better then when I don't do it.
no one ever said this makes it more potent, or have more resin,....................not when ed rosenthal first mentioned the technique over 30 years ago, and not now
S
sparkjumper
Haha I'm totally misunderstanding the trick huh?Did you read the second post before you decided to take charge and set me staright?Haha man I'll tell you a little advice around here anymore and there has to be SOMEBODY to slap it around.Notice I capitalized a word since you like that apparently
MrBubbakush717
Member
I said aroma potency not the overall potency of the plant just to clarify and yes it does work for those who are against it or see no difference then go for what you know ...
BY EDD+B ROSE.
Curing
Curing is a process employed to naturally enhance the bouquet, flavour, and texture of marijuana. Curing does not lower potency when done correctly, although poor curing methods often result in some less of THC.
Curing is not an essential procedure, and many growers prefer the "natural" flavour of uncured grass. Sweet sinsemilla buds usually are not cured.
Curing is most successful on plants which have "ripened" and are beginning to lose chlorophyll. It is less successful on growing tips and other vigorous parts which are immature. These parts may only lose some chlorophyll.
Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.
LUDACRIS.
Curing
Curing is a process employed to naturally enhance the bouquet, flavour, and texture of marijuana. Curing does not lower potency when done correctly, although poor curing methods often result in some less of THC.
Curing is not an essential procedure, and many growers prefer the "natural" flavour of uncured grass. Sweet sinsemilla buds usually are not cured.
Curing is most successful on plants which have "ripened" and are beginning to lose chlorophyll. It is less successful on growing tips and other vigorous parts which are immature. These parts may only lose some chlorophyll.
Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.
LUDACRIS.
