soil remineralization: process and discussion
- Thread starter jaykush
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vonforne
I have a lot of customers who I noticed using small stones in their gartens. Mostly older people. There are a lot of granite walkways here and that makes for a never ending supply of granite dust and chips.
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Wow, this shit really hit me. You're still a carrot to me, maryjohn.
Green Smoke
Member
No one baited you. You get all the credit. Leave me out of your excuses.
Okay now...When I cut quartzite all that dust up my nose, I should be saving. It seems more than a tiny bit will weight my soil down and make it gummy. My natural soil is down stream from an old volcanic area. Lava rock surfaces in my backyard. The sand really packs hard a few feet down with a lot of caliche. Too many minerals. Sand in potting soil is a cheap trick with little benefit. I add tons of organic material and that is where the roots stay.
My argument with much of what is organic is in the way it is derived. Not always earth friendly. I am guilty myself of using different products where the harvest may be harmful.
My argument with much of what is organic is in the way it is derived. Not always earth friendly. I am guilty myself of using different products where the harvest may be harmful.
anyone here read Secrets of the Soil? A mighty interesting read imo! and if remineraliztion/compost teas interest you then so will this book. taken with a grain of salt (or sand?) of course.
Anyways the key factor in azomite or glacial rock dust etc... IMO is the finer it is the more useful it will be. Granted its usefulness is in the trace minerals that the rock dusts contain, but the smaller the particles ( clay sized and smaller) the more surface area (and electric charge) available. We are looking to increase the negative charge in the soil with rock dust and soil humus.
So my question is, if I lived in an area that had extreme clay soils- couldn't I dry them out and crush it into dust and mix this with my soil mix to increase the CEC?
Rock dusts and soil humus need to be both in the soil for a balanced healthy soil. Not to mention micro organisms. They are the key to making everything work together. Just rock dusts or just organic matter is not enough.
Anyways the key factor in azomite or glacial rock dust etc... IMO is the finer it is the more useful it will be. Granted its usefulness is in the trace minerals that the rock dusts contain, but the smaller the particles ( clay sized and smaller) the more surface area (and electric charge) available. We are looking to increase the negative charge in the soil with rock dust and soil humus.
So my question is, if I lived in an area that had extreme clay soils- couldn't I dry them out and crush it into dust and mix this with my soil mix to increase the CEC?
Rock dusts and soil humus need to be both in the soil for a balanced healthy soil. Not to mention micro organisms. They are the key to making everything work together. Just rock dusts or just organic matter is not enough.
happyhi
Member
when the herd breaks down things like azomite and glacial rock powder what nutrient does it provide? or does it provide better
facilitation of nutrient uptake?
what is the difference between glacial rock powder, azomite and rock powder? i see all three at the local feed store?
sorry if these have been asked and answered.
thanks, hh
facilitation of nutrient uptake?
what is the difference between glacial rock powder, azomite and rock powder? i see all three at the local feed store?
sorry if these have been asked and answered.
thanks, hh
happyhi
Member
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vonforne
azomite (Azomite stands for "A to Z Of Minerals Including Trace Elements.") is volcanic rock dust and glacial rock powder is various rock powders gathered and stored in the ice forever..
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happyhi
Member
v- so if amending with azomite is it a waste of time to add
other rock powders or minerals? if the azomite has everything from Ato Z is there any need for others.
thanks, hh
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vonforne
I do not think it is a waste of time. I try and add as much diversity in my mix as I can. I do not have Azomite here but do have various forms of rock powders alone and addeed to my guanos.
You can use what ever you have in your area. That is the way I generally grow......local products and home made.
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You can use what ever you have in your area. That is the way I generally grow......local products and home made.
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CannaDestroyer
Member
i have read this thread twice now. in fact i was thinking of starting the same thread only days before jay started this one. i didn't because i assumed there would be no real beneifit to mineralizing soil for marijuana. after researching the subject some more, it seems mineralization can be quite beneifical. what i havn't found in all my reading is a usuable appilcation rate for someone who recycles soil. one member mentioned using 1 cup per 5 gallons of soil, but didn't mention if this was done everytime the soil is recycled. so jay, vonforne, anybody who recycles, how much rock powder are you adding per gallon of soil? i am fine with just some approximation if exact measurments aren't known. it doesn't seem like there is much chance of burning your plants by adding too much, within reason of course.
like you said, its pretty hard to burn your plants with rock dusts. i personally just add it to my composting process. and add that mineral rich compost to my soils. when stacking a pile about 4x4x4 i use about a half gallon of rock dusts. you only need to add the powders for a few runs if you recycle, then skip a few because they last a while, then you can slowly add some more. for example i have tested plants in beer cups, some going as high as 40% rock dusts, the plants grew fine. the plants that got 10-15% grew better but the 40% still grew well and better than the control. it also depends on the powders you get. if its micronized like azomite. its used up faster. if you collect your own like i do it includes powders, small sand, sand and larger pieces. this gives a long range of minerals for some time. as the soil ages the bigger particles are processed by the micro life. this is more of a long term effect. if one was using azomite. i dont measure but i would use about a few tablespoons to 1/4 cup per every gallon of soil. as always start low and work your way up. every other grow. then work from there what works best for you. but like i said, if you compost yourself at home. add the powders to the composting process instead, you will be much happier, less work, creates diverse compost, selects for microbes that process the minerals. i always add some to my wormbins too, just a sprinkle on top every now and then.
imo minerals and trace elements play a key role in those functions of the plant we usually dont notice. filling in those tiny gaps. i personally have noticed healthier plants, more resistance to pest and disease, as well as helping with the quality of the high.
imo minerals and trace elements play a key role in those functions of the plant we usually dont notice. filling in those tiny gaps. i personally have noticed healthier plants, more resistance to pest and disease, as well as helping with the quality of the high.
CannaDestroyer
Member
well jay i don't think you could have tailored a more perfect answer for me. it just so happens my compost pile and yours are the same size. i will be collecting my own rock powder. i was thinking the different sized pieces would be good for soil texture, but you make a good point about them having a longer lasting effect also. interesting about helping out with functions we don't normally notice. my well water was full of sediment for a long time after drilling the well, i assume this is mostly rock bits/dust from drilling. i can't say that it alone is the reason for higher disease/pest/stress in general resistance, but i have noticed a difference with the water change. i assumed it was more just my soil maturing, but now i think the rocks/dust had more of hand than i previously thought. the quailty of the high and end product in general seems to improve as we are better able to assemble nature indoors.
lol well actually i have about 5-8 4x4x4 piles going at the same time. in mid winter i at least have 2 going. but they all get as diverse materials as possible, rock powders and biochar.
yes the different particle sizes gives you a long term effect with minerals release, as well as a long term effect on aeration and drainage. its a little heavier than pertlie but imo all worth it. there are tons of tiny functions filled by the trace elements that i am still just barely scratching the surface on. one thing i am getting towards confirming is the rock powders effect on the high length, it just seems to last longer. thats not even taking into account what and which trace elements/minerals the micro organisms are using to there advantage. and one thing i am certain of is there effect on seed production. best damn seeds i have ever made came from rock powder or mineral rich soil. yea its hard to say without a doubt that its causing the plant to resist disease and pests more. but its hard to ignore as well.
yes the different particle sizes gives you a long term effect with minerals release, as well as a long term effect on aeration and drainage. its a little heavier than pertlie but imo all worth it. there are tons of tiny functions filled by the trace elements that i am still just barely scratching the surface on. one thing i am getting towards confirming is the rock powders effect on the high length, it just seems to last longer. thats not even taking into account what and which trace elements/minerals the micro organisms are using to there advantage. and one thing i am certain of is there effect on seed production. best damn seeds i have ever made came from rock powder or mineral rich soil. yea its hard to say without a doubt that its causing the plant to resist disease and pests more. but its hard to ignore as well.
From the 'For Whatever It's Worth' department at the home office in Butt Crack, Texas there is a 'theory' outlined in Darwin's Root Brain theory that plant roots grab to a piece of mineral and surround that deal with 'root slime' which works on the gravity reality which forces the root 'down' regardless of how the plant is growing, i.e. if the pot is turned 90 degrees and the plant if forced to grow upwards towards the light and the roots push down.
What this means to some is that plants have a 'neurobiology' factor which plays into some of the basic principles of the Soma Table with regard to the exchange of nutrients between plants meaning that plants actually talk to each other.
Interesting theory and not fully supported by all plant scientists and yet it remains a viable point of discussion with regard to growing plants.
CC
What this means to some is that plants have a 'neurobiology' factor which plays into some of the basic principles of the Soma Table with regard to the exchange of nutrients between plants meaning that plants actually talk to each other.
Interesting theory and not fully supported by all plant scientists and yet it remains a viable point of discussion with regard to growing plants.
CC
CannaDestroyer
Member
i was gifted a large jar of ash from the mt saint helens volcano expolsion in the 80's. could this be of use for remineralizing soil? i am looking more into what it might contain, but i assume it is mostly rock powder and some ash from burnt trees etc.
i would look into it further and see if you can find its makeup, maybe even call some volcano expert or email them.
or
do your own testing, you dont even have to do it with cannabis unless you dont mind numbers and the chance of failure. have a control( preferably a few of each actually) then the same number with a low dose, same number with a medium dose, and a high dose. watch and observe. take note on the amounts used and fine tune from there.
i use local lavarock in my soil though, it adds great aeration when broken up to a good size.
or
do your own testing, you dont even have to do it with cannabis unless you dont mind numbers and the chance of failure. have a control( preferably a few of each actually) then the same number with a low dose, same number with a medium dose, and a high dose. watch and observe. take note on the amounts used and fine tune from there.
i use local lavarock in my soil though, it adds great aeration when broken up to a good size.
