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Fertilizer strategy for fruiting tomato plants

ballplayer 2

Active member
Hi guys just wondering what a good fertilizer strategy for fruit bearing tomato plants would be.

I had been using the fertilizing strategy of feed, water, feed, water. Slowly raising the EC from 1.0 to about 1.6-1.7 once they got to be a couple feet tall.

At this point they started to flower cluster and I figured they might need more fertilizer, and so I quit with the plain water flushes in between, and just fed with every watering. EC was staying around 1.4-1.8 during this time.

Things progressed nicely, I have two 4 ft cherry tomato plants in a 4x4 space under 800 watts MH light. They have 3-4 branches of nice sized tomatoes which have set, and as many as 10 flower clusters waiting to set.

However, some of the bottom leaves have begun getting some brown/black spotting, and some (not many) of the leaf tips have some blackening. The problem is not particularly widespread, but it is moving up the plant a bit. I cannot tell whether the problem is a result of overfeeding or underfeeding. Because I have seen people say they feed their tomatoes at an EC of up to 2.5-2.8. I did not approach that level until my very last feed, which was yesterday (2.05-2.1). However, it has been about 3 weeks since I used the alternating feed, water cycle.

My setup has enough heat and good airflow to allow me to water until significant runoff. My runoff has basically matched my input, usually just about 0.1-0.4 EC higher than my input. The dolomite and worm castings I added to my Sunshine Mix seems to be keeping my pH steady at between 6.3-6.7.

For water I use a tapwater mix with rain/snow water or RO water to a starting EC of 0.2. I then add Earth Juice Microblast to bring the solution to 0.3. Then I add Liquid Karma until EC hits 0.4-0.5. Then I add some Cal-Mag Plus until EC reaches 0.6. Then I add Pure Blend Pro Grow until Ec reaches the desired level of between 1.5-2.0. Since the fruitload has increased I have been mixing in Pure Blend Pro Bloom as about 0.3 EC of the final total.

So like I said things have progressed, but seem to have slowed just a bit lately. I can't figure out if they are underfed or overfed. I think my next watering, which will take place on Saturday, will likely be plain water. If it helps, a couple of the very small sucker branches on the bottom of the plant have had their growing tip turn a black color and are crispy. Though none of the top parts of the plant show any of the symptoms. I would think that might suggest an overfertilized plant, but I dont know what an underfertilized tomato plant looks like.

I hope I have provided enough information to help with a proper estimated guess by those with more experience than me. I am appreciative of any advice, suggestions you might have. Thanks for your time.

BP
 

DocLeaf

procreationist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I had been using the fertilizing strategy of feed, water, feed, water. Slowly raising the EC from 1.0 to about 1.6-1.7 once they got to be a couple feet tall.

At this point they started to flower cluster and I figured they might need more fertilizer, and so I quit with the plain water flushes in between, and just fed with every watering. EC was staying around 1.4-1.8 during this time.

Things progressed nicely, I have two 4 ft cherry tomato plants in a 4x4 space under 800 watts MH light. They have 3-4 branches of nice sized tomatoes which have set, and as many as 10 flower clusters waiting to set.

However, some of the bottom leaves have begun getting some brown/black spotting, and some (not many) of the leaf tips have some blackening. The problem is not particularly widespread, but it is moving up the plant a bit. I cannot tell whether the problem is a result of overfeeding or underfeeding. Because I have seen people say they feed their tomatoes at an EC of up to 2.5-2.8. I did not approach that level until my very last feed, which was yesterday (2.05-2.1). However, it has been about 3 weeks since I used the alternating feed, water cycle.

My setup has enough heat and good airflow to allow me to water until significant runoff. My runoff has basically matched my input, usually just about 0.1-0.4 EC higher than my input. The dolomite and worm castings I added to my Sunshine Mix seems to be keeping my pH steady at between 6.3-6.7.

For water I use a tapwater mix with rain/snow water or RO water to a starting EC of 0.2. I then add Earth Juice Microblast to bring the solution to 0.3. Then I add Liquid Karma until EC hits 0.4-0.5. Then I add some Cal-Mag Plus until EC reaches 0.6. Then I add Pure Blend Pro Grow until Ec reaches the desired level of between 1.5-2.0. Since the fruitload has increased I have been mixing in Pure Blend Pro Bloom as about 0.3 EC of the final total.

So like I said things have progressed, but seem to have slowed just a bit lately. I can't figure out if they are underfed or overfed. I think my next watering, which will take place on Saturday, will likely be plain water. If it helps, a couple of the very small sucker branches on the bottom of the plant have had their growing tip turn a black color and are crispy. Though none of the top parts of the plant show any of the symptoms. I would think that might suggest an overfertilized plant, but I dont know what an underfertilized tomato plant looks like.

I hope I have provided enough information to help with a proper estimated guess by those with more experience than me. I am appreciative of any advice, suggestions you might have. Thanks for your time.

BP

Great info. on feeding :yes:

We following the above in bold,, then reduce to plain cold water feeding only as the fruits begin to set... mainly to avoid overloading the fruits with excessive nutrients.

We grow cherry toms. mainly so we like to keep them sweet.

Discoloured leaves are normal in older plants as energy is passed into the growing tips. An Alga or seaweed based fertiliser will help correct this by providing the soil/plants with added micro-nutrients :D
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
Good thread. I'm in. We got a contest on who can grow the best beefsteak amongst the fellows at the local cigar shop. If I don't place high at judging, i will be taking a lot of shit, since I have been farming my whole life.

We got some old guy who has been growing back yard tomatoes forever and he can't wait to beat me, and he probably will. but I have to make a good showing anyway.

My plan is to use an organic soil mix with organic nutes and teas. But I don't know fuck all about tomatoes, so I'm hoping for some posts here.

Always grown "early girl" or "Better Boys"out west here as the beefsteak does not do well in our high alkaline sandy soil, hence 5 gal pots and organic soil with all the regular stuff (dolomite lime, EMC, guano etc.).

I was going to just use an organic nute line as a base and augment with teas, but I'm here to learn.

Judging on June 1st, 2010.

I'm hoping some kick ass old time grower of beefsteaks chimes in here.
 

Wait...What?

Active member
Veteran
early girl was bred for earliness not taste, and better boy for disease resistance.

the heirloom varieties have a ton more taste but jack shit for disease resistance and yield.

cater to your judges. some people like a more tangy tomato. some like a more creamy tomato. taste is subjective.
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
early girl was bred for earliness not taste, and better boy for disease resistance.

the heirloom varieties have a ton more taste but jack shit for disease resistance and yield.

cater to your judges. some people like a more tangy tomato. some like a more creamy tomato. taste is subjective.

Yeah, I know. but they tolerate the sandy high alkaline soils/water we have here in the desert SW, while most all the "good" tasting tomatoes do not. Beefsteaks will not grow well at all in our native soil/water. They produce 1 or 2 tomatoes per plant. While EG and BB at least produce adequate amounts of fruit.
This is why I am making my own soil, growing organic and using RO water for this beefsteak competition grow. Never had the gumption to do all that before. It is a "Beefsteak? competition.
 

fart star

Member
grapeman, if you in a contest might as well grow the world record holder-

http://rareseeds.com/cart/products/Delicious_Tomato-320-33.html

I've been scanning the catalogs this winter looking for any new additions to my garden, there are tons and tons of varieties to choose from!

I build my container soils with compost, worm castings, and rock dust. Water them with compost tea and rely on the microbes to feed my plants. I may be able to do better with an active feeding program, but this method works well enough for me. I'm always playing around though. General Hydoponics was offering free quart sized bottles of their whole organic liquid nutrient line earlier in the winter (maybe even still?) so I picked up a box. I'm thinking about running a side-by-side this summer. adios
 

fart star

Member
well I've never grown it, was reading through the seed catalogs and ran across it. Thought since it has been known to produce large tomatoes that it might be of interest in a contest environment.
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
well I've never grown it, was reading through the seed catalogs and ran across it. Thought since it has been known to produce large tomatoes that it might be of interest in a contest environment.

Thanks - but for sake of fairness, we are all using the same palnts and growing the identical variety. So, It's gonna be all about the soil, nutes, water, pests and sun location.
 

geemail

New member
Is anyone familiar with the book:
Tomatoes:The multi-plant method by Leopold Klein..1974

"Up to a 100lbs from 4 plants in a single hole"
Hole is 20"x20"x20"

His method prunes to a single vine (up) my plants reached
8'-10' (1x2 stakes) before I could no longer manage them

"4 months of harvest starting July 4th"
(Seeds started indoors 3/15-4/1)

("quotes" are from the book)

He sinks a masonite box but I just dug the hole without the box.
He also makes the box as a container but I never tried that way

I won't go into it if it's been rehashed already, but I can vouch
that it's pretty easy (and cheap) and worked for me.

G
 

Wait...What?

Active member
Veteran
if you're going to train to a single stem, try pruning using the missouri method. i get better yields when i do. you can also take the stem that forms from the first fruit truss and turn that into a second main stem. from there, train the two into a big VEE. its all about maximizing yield per square foot of growing area.
 

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