HOW IMPORTANT IS TO ADJUST PLANTS WATER +FERTS WITH THE RIGHT PH5,5 - 6,2 ???

[rosskemp]

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE by watering THE CANNABIS-SKUNK PLANTS with fertilized water solution PH 7,0 - 8,0 ,instead of RECOMMENDED PH5,5 - 6,2 ???
My friend has nice looking flowering plants and he has water+bloom solution with PH8! WTF!!![grows in soil-mix,6L pots]
IS THAT ALL???
A PH LEVEL TOO HIGH STIMULATES THE CREATION OF INSOLUBLE COMPOUNDS!!!
A PH LEVEL TOO LOW DAMAGES THE ROOTS!!!
EC goes up, PH goes down = Plants require less nutes
EC goes down, PH goes up = Plants require more nutes
EC stable, PH goes up = can be all right
Budget Range pH Meters
pHTest1: 0.2 Accuracy (No automatic temperature correction)

-PH level scale from 0-14 picture
Advanced Range pH Meters
pHTest10: 0.1 Accuracy Automatic temperature correction, Double Junction Sensor
pHTest20: 0.0.1 Accuracy Automatic temperature correction, Double Junction Sensor
pHTest30: 0.0.1 Accuracy Temperature display, Automatic temperature correction, Double Junction Sensor

PH CORRECTORS

 

[Sleepy]

you will get answers on both sides on this one...

when pH is out of range, it locks out usable nutrients.

for me, it is more important than anything else.

got to keep it in range.

my pH hovers between 9.0-10.0

 

[Iron_Lion]

If growing with chemical fertilizers its pretty important to pH correctly. if you are growing organically with a soil mix well tuned with lime you can throw out the pH pen and forget about it, it becomes a non issue.

Certain essential nutrients become locked out at pH ranges above 7.0 and adversely below 6.0. That's why they say to pH to 6.0-6.9 this is the approximate range where the most essential nutrients are available to the plant. the is a good chart out there that will explain in further detail.

pH values also vary based on grow medium used, there is different sweet spot values for different mediums, hydro, coco, soil, etc...

Also, it is not that you plant might not grow ok with excessivly high ph values, but it may not be growing to its fullest potential. I try to get the most out of my plants by giving them the most stress free environment for them to live in.

 

[nnep]

very important. if you have an incorrect PH, the roots have a very hard time intaking specific nutrients.

Maybe this chart will help. Hydro is different.

 

[bigghead]

nice charts fellas

 

[Ronley]

I you are rowing in soil, then dont worry about the PH.
I have been growing in soil for over 10 years and never once measured the PH.

 

[rosskemp]

nutrients & water

nutrients & water

Nutrients and Water

There are many plant nutrients available and the choice can be confusing. Most are produced on a simple NPK formulation some are produced using a more complex formulation and or have built in growth enhancers.
Water quality can make a considerable difference to the quality of the food supplied to your favourite plants, and the first and most important factor of choosing your nutrient is “ are you in a Hard or Soft water area? “ ..this is important as Hydroponic nutrients are produced in either Hard or Soft water formulations, which will partially adjust your waters pH level to suit. Even so, some pH adjustment will still be necessary with the aid of pH Up & Down acids.
A quick ‘in house’ test to see if you are in a Hard water area is to look in your kettle to see if there is much limescale at the bottom!..if there is, then it is likely that you are in a Hard water area. We recommend asking your local grow shop or contacting your local water board just to be sure.

Keeping the PH of your nutrient solution within the ideal range will help your plants to take up essential elements contained in the nutrient solution.
In a re-circulating hydroponic system the ideal range is between 5.8 -6.4, keeping it around 6.0 will be fine.
For soil grown plants the ideal pH range is between 6.4 – 7.0, closer to 7.0 is optimum.
It is possible to grow without a conductivity meter but you will have no idea how strong the nutrient solution is when ‘topping up’ etc. This can lead to toxic nutrient feed problems which will harm your plants.
The strength of your nutrient mix is very much dependent on the age & variety of plant and at what time of year it is (seasonal adjustments). Experience will give you personal guidelines that suit your growing best.

General guidelines:

• Young vegging plants: E.C 1.2 – 1.6 or C.F 12 – 16
• Established vegging plants: E.C 1.8 – 2.2 or C.F 18 – 22
• Established flowering plants: E.C 1.8 – 2.4 or C.F 18 – 24

What if the Conductivity is too high?
Every aspect of plant growth will slow down, and visibly you will see the plants begin to burn out in the form of brown spots or brown, curling leaves.
What if the Conductivity is too low?
The plants will be weak and pale and yields will be lower.
What is Hard water?
Being in a Hard Water region means that your water supply is heavily laden with Calcium and Magnesium. This leads to pH instability in most cases and requires the grower to use a Hard Water formulated nutrient which will already be buffered to take this into account. A grower in a Hard Water region will generally have more pH maintenance of the nutrient solution and occasionally can experience Calcium and Magnesium feeding problems.
What temperature should my nutrient solution be?
The ideal temperature range is between 18-23C. Low temperatures cause a slowing in all aspects of growth, and higher temperatures will starve the solution of oxygen and can lead to root rot problems.
How often should I ‘dump’ my nutrient solution?
Ideally you should dump the tank every 7-10 days. Obviously there will be times when this is not possible, but every two weeks should be the absolute minimum. If you do not dump the tank, then a build up of salts left behind from the nutrient can cause serious problems for your plants.
Should I aerate the nutrient solution?
Always, especially in hot summer months when the heat will deplete the oxygen in the solution much quicker than other times of the year. Keeping oxygen levels optimum will enhance every aspect of plant growth and yield.
What causes leaves to turn yellow/brown/purple?
Unfortunately there are many reasons for this happening: Nutrient & pH related problems; Temperature related problems within the grow room or the nutrient tank; Disease or pest attack. We recommend contacting us as soon as you see the problem so that we can guide you through the process of elimination.
What is the creamy brown mould rotting my flowers?
Unfortunately this will usually be Botrytis or Grey mold. Keeping your grow room humidity down to a reasonable level during flowering, and using air movers will help to avoid this problem. But most gardeners will experience it at some point or another and will learn to deal with it by being extra vigilante in the last few weeks of flowering and or using suitable fungicides to help keep it under control.

 

[CrossEyedMary]

I you are rowing in soil, then dont worry about the PH.
I have been growing in soil for over 10 years and never once measured the PH.

I'm not discrediting you because you obviously have many more years experience than me but.
I'm not sure this is true for all soil. A while back I was growing in soil and for the first 45 days the pH was always 5.8 and my plants looked like shit. I corrected it to 6.5 from then on and the plants began to bounce back a couple weeks later. It ended up extending my flower time by a month. If you have the right soil mix everything should take care of itself. This was not the case in my grow.

 

[CrossEyedMary]

Nutrients and Water

There are many plant nutrients available and the choice can be confusing. Most are produced on a simple NPK formulation some are produced using a more complex formulation and or have built in growth enhancers.
Water quality can make a considerable difference to the quality of the food supplied to your favourite plants, and the first and most important factor of choosing your nutrient is “ are you in a Hard or Soft water area? “ ..this is important as Hydroponic nutrients are produced in either Hard or Soft water formulations, which will partially adjust your waters pH level to suit. Even so, some pH adjustment will still be necessary with the aid of pH Up & Down acids.
A quick ‘in house’ test to see if you are in a Hard water area is to look in your kettle to see if there is much limescale at the bottom!..if there is, then it is likely that you are in a Hard water area. We recommend asking your local grow shop or contacting your local water board just to be sure.
To create the perfect nutrient mix, you may wish to consider Reverse Osmosis which will strip 99.9% of impurities from your water supply.
Keeping the pH of your nutrient solution within the ideal range will help your plants to take up essential elements contained in the nutrient solution.
In a re-circulating hydroponic system the ideal range is between 5.8 -6.4, keeping it around 6.0 will be fine.
For soil grown plants the ideal pH range is between 6.4 – 7.0, closer to 7.0 is optimum.
It is possible to grow without a conductivity meter but you will have no idea how strong the nutrient solution is when ‘topping up’ etc. This can lead to toxic nutrient feed problems which will harm your plants.
The strength of your nutrient mix is very much dependent on the age & variety of plant and at what time of year it is (seasonal adjustments). Experience will give you personal guidelines that suit your growing best.

General guidelines:

• Young vegging plants: E.C 1.2 – 1.6 or C.F 12 – 16
• Established vegging plants: E.C 1.8 – 2.2 or C.F 18 – 22
• Established flowering plants: E.C 1.8 – 2.4 or C.F 18 – 24

What if the Conductivity is too high?
Every aspect of plant growth will slow down, and visibly you will see the plants begin to burn out in the form of brown spots or brown, curling leaves.
What if the Conductivity is too low?
The plants will be weak and pale and yields will be lower.
What is Hard water?
Being in a Hard Water region means that your water supply is heavily laden with Calcium and Magnesium. This leads to pH instability in most cases and requires the grower to use a Hard Water formulated nutrient which will already be buffered to take this into account. A grower in a Hard Water region will generally have more pH maintenance of the nutrient solution and occasionally can experience Calcium and Magnesium feeding problems.
What temperature should my nutrient solution be?
The ideal temperature range is between 18-23C. Low temperatures cause a slowing in all aspects of growth, and higher temperatures will starve the solution of oxygen and can lead to root rot problems.
How often should I ‘dump’ my nutrient solution?
Ideally you should dump the tank every 7-10 days. Obviously there will be times when this is not possible, but every two weeks should be the absolute minimum. If you do not dump the tank, then a build up of salts left behind from the nutrient can cause serious problems for your plants.
Should I aerate the nutrient solution?
Always, especially in hot summer months when the heat will deplete the oxygen in the solution much quicker than other times of the year. Keeping oxygen levels optimum will enhance every aspect of plant growth and yield.
What causes leaves to turn yellow/brown/purple?
Unfortunately there are many reasons for this happening: Nutrient & pH related problems; Temperature related problems within the grow room or the nutrient tank; Disease or pest attack. We recommend contacting us as soon as you see the problem so that we can guide you through the process of elimination.
What is the creamy brown mould rotting my flowers?
Unfortunately this will usually be Botrytis or Grey mold. Keeping your grow room humidity down to a reasonable level during flowering, and using air movers will help to avoid this problem. But most gardeners will experience it at some point or another and will learn to deal with it by being extra vigilante in the last few weeks of flowering and or using suitable fungicides to help keep it under control.

Good info, care to cite your reference?

 

[rosskemp]

I you are rowing in soil, then dont worry about the PH.
I have been growing in soil for over 10 years and never once measured the PH.

Hay!
What you mean don't worry about the PH!?

Look after you add the water with nutrients to the soil-mix plant pot, the roots start's pumping this water to the steam and to every corner of the fine skunk-cannabis plant!!!
If the PH LEVEL is high as 9 & the plant is sucking this high PH9 polluted water! It's clear that this plant can't be good as the others with correct PH!
PROBLEM#2 IS THAT PLANTS ARE NOT PRODUCING SWEET,BEAUTIFUL,BIG,ROCK-HARD BUDS!!!

 

[rosskemp]

xD! lol! xD!

xD! lol! xD!

Good info, care to cite your reference?

FUNNY AS A MOTHERFUCKER M8!!! YOU MADE MY DAY HOMEBOY!!!NOW YOU CAN FUCK OFF HOMIE!!!

 

[Castelvetro]

its totally important, even in organics but those guys think any time u do anything other then pray to the micro herd gods your going against life. u ph your nutes you use them most efficiently and actually save resources, plus in anything but dirt if your ph is off forget it your screwed.

 

[Laventille]

Tangy ph2.0 flush FTW

 

[desert fox]

your friend gets good results because his soil is already acidic. It is all about balance. I normally water with PH of 8. My runoff is in the high 6s and then goes into recirculation. I take notes about what goes in and out of the sump, and plan accordingly for the next watering or feeding. If I start to see crazy low numbers I dump some lime in and flip the switch a few times, till I get the PH that I want. My soil always goes acidic......why add acid? I got a bottle but it really isn't used much.

 

[rosskemp]

PH6,5 faster flowering!

PH6,5 faster flowering!

its totally important, even in organics but those guys think any time u do anything other then pray to the micro herd gods your going against life. u ph your nutes you use them most efficiently and actually save resources, plus in anything but dirt if your ph is off forget it your screwed.

yo! praying to the micro herd gods!!!lol

Tangy ph2.0 flush FTW

wtf you mean man with that post!?

your friend gets good results because his soil is already acidic. It is all about balance. I normally water with PH of 8. My runoff is in the high 6s and then goes into recirculation. I take notes about what goes in and out of the sump, and plan accordingly for the next watering or feeding. If I start to see crazy low numbers I dump some lime in and flip the switch a few times, till I get the PH that I want. My soil always goes acidic......why add acid? I got a bottle but it really isn't used much.

yes i know that he is using very good soil-mix, it cost over 20$/10gallon bag!it's with perlite and hydro kick! [PH5,5-6,5]!

-i have measured PH of water solution for my flowering plant's in week 2![PH6,5] i'm watering (water+bloom) plant's now 4day's & they are flowering like crazy! when i was using (water+bloom) with[PH8], plants had very slow flowering start & they stretched more i think then now!

-i read an article that plants normally start to stretch in the flowering phase! we can reduce this stretch-START adding PHOSPHORUS & KALIUM-POTASSIUM at beginning of flowering phase!starting with week#1! (dosage should be 1/2 as in week3 of flowering!)
-4soil,coco,hydro

Hesi Phosphorus Plus [soil][SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1]
Hesi Phosphorus Plus is used in combination with the Hesi Bloom Complex in the second half of the flowering phase. During flowering, the plant develops an increased need for phosphorus and potassium. Using Phosphorus Plus, we give plants the right means at the right moment: phosphorus for extra formation of flowers and potassium for a fast transport to the flowers.
Hesi soil nutrition has been balanced to the ratios in the soil environment and ensures that the plants are taken care of in an optimal manner. Thanks to the use of high-quality ingredients, the plants absorb all substances offered to them, so that no residues are left behind.
With Phosphorus Plus the formation of the flowers is more powerful!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphorus

[/SIZE][/SIZE]Hesi PK 13/14
[SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1] Plants have an increased need for phosphorus as well as potassium in the flowering phase, by applying PK 13/14 we completely fulfil this need. The flowering phase is the supreme point in the life of the plant. The metabolism is then working at full power and large quantities of enzymes are being produced for flowering. Furthermore, the plant gets bigger and therefore needs more components. The specific substances that are responsible for this are phosphorus (enzymes and hereditary characteristics) and potassium (for the transport within the plant). To ensure that the plant is not unnecessarily loaded with ballast or an excess of salt too early, Hesi PK 13/14 should be used starting from the second half of the flowering phase up to one week before the end of the cycle. The dosage is gradually increased over the final weeks of the flowering phase.[/SIZE][/SIZE]
:yay:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potassium

HESI BLOOM

Hesi Bloom Complex [soil]
[SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1] Hesi Bloom Complex provides all the necessary substances to flowering plants for their extra needs during flowering. Apart from the nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium, trace elements etc.), Hesi Bloom Complex has also been enriched with vital components (amino acids and vitamins) that stimulate the development of the plant in an optimal manner. The result of this is an exuberant bloom! In addition, Hesi Bloom Complex contains a pH corrector.
The pH level of the feeding water is corrected to a slightly acidic value. The plant can absorb all the administered nutrients optimally around a slightly acidic value. Bloom Complex contains no unnecessary ballast and is therefore fully absorbed by the plant.
[/SIZE][/SIZE]Hesi Hydro Bloom [hydro,coco]
[SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1] Hesi Hydro Bloom for the flowering phase.
Hydro Bloom contains a higher concentration of phosphorus and potassium components compared to the Hydro Growth. Plants have an increased need for phosphorus as well as potassium in the flowering phase in order to create strong and healthy flowers. During the first half of the bloom, this need is satisfied for 100% by Hesi Hydro Bloom. In the second half of the flowering phase, Hesi PK 13/14 is added together with Hydro Bloom in order to fulfill the needs entirely. Hydro Bloom contains a mix of vital substances that is particularly geared to the flowering phase.

Hesi Hydro supplement is available in a growth and bloom version.
In Hesi Hydro Growth and Bloom the usual A and B components have been united in one bottle. This provides a maximum of comfort along with optimal nutrition. Hesi Hydro contains complex-binding substances that keep the trace elements stable and make them tolerant to the nutritional components.
Because of this they remain stable until they are absorbed by the plant. Furthermore, the complex-binding substances make the trace elements independent of the pH-value, so that these remain available at every level.

All Hesi supplements are enriched with vitamins and other vital elements that take extra care of the plant and enhance its growth and flowering, but also encourage the development of micro-organisms in the medium. Especially in hydro systems, a healthy medium is important because the systems do not contain biological microbes in the beginning.

[/SIZE][/SIZE] later i will add some pictures of <greenhouse seeds> INDICA H-Mix:Great White Shark,Lemon Skunk,White Rhino,Train Wreck,Cheese & extra buy:The Church!

 

[oldgrayhair]

Are you here to sell HESI ?

 

[rosskemp]

homie...

homie...

Are you here to sell HESI ?

fuck off homie!!![SIZE=-1][SIZE=-1]In addition, Hesi Bloom Complex contains a pH corrector!!!
The pH level of the feeding water is corrected to a slightly acidic value. The plant can absorb all the administered nutrients optimally around a slightly acidic value. Bloom Complex contains no unnecessary ballast and is therefore fully absorbed by the plant.[/SIZE][/SIZE]
week2/day13

week8/day 60

 

[oldgrayhair]

Got my answer, good day sir