L
LJB
Thank you a-dam. That style of training has worked well here on blooming plants of all sizes. I don't mind doing it or redoing it as late as three weeks in. The pistil whipped pruning method is almost always used too.
I ran out of PBP over the weekend and decided to try a different nutrient, something with a little bit more muscle in the forms of P and Mg.
After comparing the ratings of about fifteen nutrient lines that can be purchased locally, FNB was selected. Another winning point was it's cost effectiveness. The tap water here is great, but it's soft. For plants in veg and until late bloom, MagiCal (less expensive than Cal-Mag Plus) is supplemented. I also selectively use Pro-Silicate and Thrive Alive B1 Green.
Speaking of CaMg supplements, it's not found locally, but CalMax can be purchased online for about 33% less than Cal-Mag Plus and 15% less than MagiCal. What's up with that, especially given that the Canadian and American dollars are almost at par? They were at par in 2008 and I highly doubt that the prices of all of these Canadian products dropped in 2009.
Currently in the veg chambers:
- 2 potential Trainwreck (allegedly) mother plants. Cuttings were taken for the first time a couple of days ago.
- 2 potential Jah Herrer (Homegrown Fantaseeds) mother plants. Awesome f'n herb.
- Australian Blue (also HGF) seedlings
- Blue Haze cuttings
At some point the Frozen Buddha seeds that my buddy created have to be started too. That's Nirvana Ice x HGF Shiva.
I ran out of PBP over the weekend and decided to try a different nutrient, something with a little bit more muscle in the forms of P and Mg.
After comparing the ratings of about fifteen nutrient lines that can be purchased locally, FNB was selected. Another winning point was it's cost effectiveness. The tap water here is great, but it's soft. For plants in veg and until late bloom, MagiCal (less expensive than Cal-Mag Plus) is supplemented. I also selectively use Pro-Silicate and Thrive Alive B1 Green.
Speaking of CaMg supplements, it's not found locally, but CalMax can be purchased online for about 33% less than Cal-Mag Plus and 15% less than MagiCal. What's up with that, especially given that the Canadian and American dollars are almost at par? They were at par in 2008 and I highly doubt that the prices of all of these Canadian products dropped in 2009.
Currently in the veg chambers:
- 2 potential Trainwreck (allegedly) mother plants. Cuttings were taken for the first time a couple of days ago.
- 2 potential Jah Herrer (Homegrown Fantaseeds) mother plants. Awesome f'n herb.
- Australian Blue (also HGF) seedlings
- Blue Haze cuttings
At some point the Frozen Buddha seeds that my buddy created have to be started too. That's Nirvana Ice x HGF Shiva.
Hey LJB, I never heard of the pistil whipped method of pruning. After looking around a bit I found a small description:
"Pistilwhipt is the prune method that Lucas uses , basically you top at the 7th node , and remove the 3 bottom branch pairs. that gives it a dominant 6 tops to even out canopy and go into flower. It's a little bit beyond that but that's the jist of it."
Sound about right to you?
So you're going to be done with PBP for good? Good luck with the switch to FNB.
"Pistilwhipt is the prune method that Lucas uses , basically you top at the 7th node , and remove the 3 bottom branch pairs. that gives it a dominant 6 tops to even out canopy and go into flower. It's a little bit beyond that but that's the jist of it."
Sound about right to you?
So you're going to be done with PBP for good? Good luck with the switch to FNB.
Is that where you cut the budsites on the lower branches away but leave the fan leaves?
L
LJB
I was under the impression that "Pistil Whipped" was what GeorgeSmiley described in the next post:
Maybe there is no special name for it.
I think so. It's not a bad product, but certainly less complete and at least around here a little bit more expensive than the competition.
L
LJB
day 25:
Crystals have just become visible to the naked eye in the last couple of days. I should have a better camera finally back up and running this week... Will attempt macro shots, although in the past those have failed completely. For someone that knows their way around a computer, I should be able to take a decent photograph, but in the past not even close.
Crystals have just become visible to the naked eye in the last couple of days. I should have a better camera finally back up and running this week... Will attempt macro shots, although in the past those have failed completely. For someone that knows their way around a computer, I should be able to take a decent photograph, but in the past not even close.
I don't doubt you yielded 14oz, but dry weight is inaccurate anyway.
http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/yor/3things.htm
phatboyfromla
Member
For 400W that's great. Love seeing the smaller grows with good results. Gives you a good idea of the possibilities 
L
LJB
Now that's an interesting page, if not a little bit confusing.
Is this aimed more at high volume growers? I do a "high quality" manicure and really don't mind spending the time on it. Sweat leaf gets saved and I am looking forward to getting one of these soon:
THE ULTIMATE PERSONAL PROFESSIONAL HASH PRESS FOR UNDER 20 BUCKS !!
L
LJB
Hey! Nice looking plants you got!
I have this round tried no run off to, but i watering with runoff every third time. Good results this far
What nutes you use and at what ec level?
Keep it up!
Hi Eyyo, thank you for the kind words. I had been alternating feeding from the top and bottom and when it's from the top, there is a little bit of runoff, but it's left in the tub for the plants to drink up and never removed by artificial means. I have noticed that the containers fill with moisture much more evenly when watered from the bottom and am thinking about only doing that from now on with this particular grow. This thread would have been more appropriately titled as 'no-water waste'.
I ran out of PBP Bloom in the middle of this grow and after comparing the nutrient profiles and prices of a short of list of commercially available products available in the local area, I decided to switch to the FloraNova Bloom. These Blue Haze are on their first res. of the FNB. For coco, the PBP profile isn't quite what I'm looking for, but it's still (and the Grow) a good product.
The tap water here is soft, but these plants have not required any Ca / Mg supplementation since early veg. The Blue Haze have so far been fed a total of EC 1.2 - 1.3 (including .1 - .2 from the tap water) since about halfway through veg. Total veg time was four weeks from seed popping, using CFLs.
Pro-Silicate at 2ml / gallon is used until about halfway through the bloom or when the stems feel very strong, whichever comes first.
cancollector
Member
been running coco w/ no run-off for a few rounds , I like it more compared to having run-off , I use weaker nutes and dont have to deal with dumping water, I use to do run to waste.
L
LJB
Hi!
I would really love to have that soft water. I have 0.69 ec in start from tap.
Keep it green!
I think that is soft.
Soft water: <150 ppm CaCO3 (1,5 mmol – 150 mg per litre)
Medium water: 150 ppm ≤ CaCO3 ≤ 250 ppm
Hard water: > 250 ppm CaCO3
General Hardness
0 - 4 dH, 0 - 70 ppm : very soft
4 - 8 dH, 70 - 140 ppm : soft
8 - 12 dH, 140 - 210 ppm : medium hard
12 - 18 dH, 210 - 320 ppm : fairly hard
18 - 30 dH, 320 - 530 ppm : hard
Your numbers dont add up. 150 > soft??? i dont get it!
Your General Hardness(kh) numbers are correct, you got those from Bigtoke's Thread if i'm not mistaken!? 150ppm's = Medium hard. KH is carbonate Hardness or general Hardness(GH).
What is dH Buddy?
It would have to be 139ppm's or under to make it just Soft if i'm not mistaken! Thats (Kh).
0.69 ec Tap is like Very Hard if i'm not mistaken! Whats that in PPm's?
its a confusing subject sometimes ah. Good Luck..
(edit-kH is dH they are one in the same thing) dH stands for degrees of hardness-ok)
Peace......Scroger
Here's Bigtokes Thread:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=23357
I would just like to say thanks because you made me drop back & read this facsinating thread again! for about the 10th time now!
Your General Hardness(kh) numbers are correct, you got those from Bigtoke's Thread if i'm not mistaken!? 150ppm's = Medium hard. KH is carbonate Hardness or general Hardness(GH).
What is dH Buddy?
It would have to be 139ppm's or under to make it just Soft if i'm not mistaken! Thats (Kh).
0.69 ec Tap is like Very Hard if i'm not mistaken! Whats that in PPm's?
its a confusing subject sometimes ah. Good Luck..
(edit-kH is dH they are one in the same thing) dH stands for degrees of hardness-ok)
Peace......Scroger
Here's Bigtokes Thread:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=23357
I would just like to say thanks because you made me drop back & read this facsinating thread again! for about the 10th time now!
L
LJB
I totally misread that post, thinking that .69 was in fact .069.
These numbers are readily available on the internet. Here is another source.
GH = General Hardness
DH = Degrees Hardness
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/khgh.html
GENERAL HARDNESS
General hardness is primarily the measure of calcium (Ca++) and magnesium (Mg++) ions in the water. Other ions can contribute to GH but their effects are usually insignificant and the other ions are difficult to measure. GH will not directly affect pH although "hard" water is generally alkaline due to some interaction of GH and KH.
GH is commonly expressed in parts per million (ppm) of calcium carbonate (CaCO3), degrees hardness (dH) or, more properly, the molar concentration of CaCO3. One German degree hardness (dH) is 10 mg of calcium oxide (CaO) per liter. In the U.S., hardness is usually measured in ppm of CaCO3. A German dH is 17.8 ppm CaCO3. A molar concentration of 1 milliequivalent per liter (mEq/l) = 2.8 dH = 50 ppm. Note that most test kits give the hardness in units of CaCO3; this means the hardness is equivalent to that much CaCO3 in water but does not mean it actually came from CaCO3. Water hardness follows these guidelines:
0 - 4 dH, 0 - 70 ppm : very soft
4 - 8 dH, 70 - 140 ppm : soft
8 - 12 dH, 140 - 210 ppm : medium hard
12 - 18 dH, 210 - 320 ppm : fairly hard
18 - 30 dH, 320 - 530 ppm : hard
These numbers are readily available on the internet. Here is another source.
GH = General Hardness
DH = Degrees Hardness
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/khgh.html
GENERAL HARDNESS
General hardness is primarily the measure of calcium (Ca++) and magnesium (Mg++) ions in the water. Other ions can contribute to GH but their effects are usually insignificant and the other ions are difficult to measure. GH will not directly affect pH although "hard" water is generally alkaline due to some interaction of GH and KH.
GH is commonly expressed in parts per million (ppm) of calcium carbonate (CaCO3), degrees hardness (dH) or, more properly, the molar concentration of CaCO3. One German degree hardness (dH) is 10 mg of calcium oxide (CaO) per liter. In the U.S., hardness is usually measured in ppm of CaCO3. A German dH is 17.8 ppm CaCO3. A molar concentration of 1 milliequivalent per liter (mEq/l) = 2.8 dH = 50 ppm. Note that most test kits give the hardness in units of CaCO3; this means the hardness is equivalent to that much CaCO3 in water but does not mean it actually came from CaCO3. Water hardness follows these guidelines:
0 - 4 dH, 0 - 70 ppm : very soft
4 - 8 dH, 70 - 140 ppm : soft
8 - 12 dH, 140 - 210 ppm : medium hard
12 - 18 dH, 210 - 320 ppm : fairly hard
18 - 30 dH, 320 - 530 ppm : hard
L
LJB
Which plants, the Jah or the Blue Haze? The measurement from the top of the 2 gallon containers to the Jah canopy was roughly 3.5 feet. It's 2.75 feet for the Blue Haze canopy (1 gallon containers).
It's not a cab, but a closet, built in under a staircase. So the ceiling slopes down at a 45 degree angle. It's something to work around.
