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This appears to be the scientific arguement against a 24/0 light/dark cycle for veg

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
I would be interested,too. Tagged.

Edit: Found it.


Credits go to Gunnaknow who posted this on ICMAG:
Originally Posted by bounty29
I used 24/0 for the first and second grows, but then I saw someone that did a pretty good comparison of veg times. They used all the same clone, and did some with 24/0, some with 20/4, some with 18/6, and maybe one other timing. The ones that vegged with 20/4 yielded the most, so that's what I use. The only difference it is to me is I have to plug the timer in for veg too, not too big of a deal.

Sorry I don't have that comparison, I think it was on another forum somewhere and I have no idea where to start looking. If anyone else has seen it maybe they can post it.

Hi Bounty, perhaps you were referring to a post on another forum by Oldtimer1? He tested veg light cycles on different sativas. The best veg light cycle for indicas and crosses might be different, however. Here are his findings...

Quote(Oldtimer):
We did a lot of experiments with light times a few years back using known sat and sat dom clone lines.

With Vegging ie under hid lights.

20/4 produced the most sturdy growth and the most bulk. Best final yield, taken as 100%.
22/2 Less of both. yield 88%
18/6 Studier than 22/2 but slightly less bulk. yield 87%
24/0 Much lighter in all aspects than 18/6. Yield 79%
16/8 The weediest plants. yield 67%

Plants vegged to final pots under fluorescents at 20w per sq ft on 18/6 yield 49%

Have not tried 36 hrs dark but did try 48 hrs from 18/6 veg. The final yield was down between 15 and 20% by var the pure sats the biggest loss in final weight and caused the odd herm, [sats] it did reduce the flowering time by 5 to 8 days.

For the mum lines we have 20/4 to 12/12 gives the best crop weight and bud quality, really thats all I’m interested in.


ICMAG thread: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=64312&highlight=20/4+100%.

Original discussion was apparently on Overgrow, continued here: http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=35728&st=15&p=334916&#entry334916

thanks! i can see my % numbers were off considerably. i can remember everything that happened 30 yrs ago, but can't remember shit from yesterday. thanks for the links.
 
L

LJB

ISHS Acta Horticulturae 481: International Symposium on Growing Media and Hydroponics

SUPPLEMENTAL LIGHTING OF GREENHOUSE VEGETABLES: LIMITATIONS AND PROBLEMS RELATED TO LONG PHOTOPERIODS

Authors: D. Demers, A. Gosselin
Keywords: Tomato, Lycopersicon esculentum, Pepper, Capsicum annuum, chlorosis, growth, yields, starch, sugars

Abstract:

In northern regions, the major factor limiting winter greenhouse production is low natural light. However, it has been demonstrated that using supplemental light from high-pressure sodium vapor (HPS) lamps from November to March achieves increased growth, productivity and gaseous exchanges of vegetable crops such as tomato (Dorais, 1992; Dorais et al., 1991; Vézina, 1989; Vézina et al., 1991), cucumber (Turcotte and Gosselin, 1987, 1989), pepper (Demers, 1990; Demers et al., 1991) and lettuce (Gaudreau, 1991; Gaudreau et al., 1994).

Most research on supplemental lighting has concentrated on the effects of the amount of light on crops; little work has been done on the influence of the photoperiod. In practice, greenhouse vegetable growers generally use photoperiods of 14 to 17 hours. Greenhouse tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum Mill.) exposed to photoperiods of 20 and 24 h developed chlorosis on their young leaves (4th to 7th leaf from apex of plant) (Bradley and Janes, 1985; Vézina et al., 1991). Moreover, the productivity of tomato plants subjected to a 17-h period did not increase compared with a 14-h photoperiod (Vézina et al., 1991). Extending the photoperiod to 20 to 24 hours even reduced plant productivity (Vézina et al., 1991). Foliar chlorosis and reduced productivity also occurred among tomato plants exposed to a photoperiod of 17 h where the 7-h nocturnal period had been separated by a 3.5-h light period into two short nights of 3.5 h. (Vézina et al., 1991).

Extending the photoperiod to 20 h resulted in increased growth and productivity of greenhouse sweet pepper (Capsicum annuum L.) plants (Demers et al., 1991). Compared with a photoperiod of 15 h, continuous lighting (24 h) resulted in earlier flowering and fruiting of pepper plants, giving better early yields, while final productivity was identical for the two photoperiods (Costes and Milhet, 1970). In addition, continuous lighting resulted in smaller average volume of the fruit harvested (Costes and Milhet, 1970). Blistering of the leaves was observed in pepper plants exposed to a photoperiod of 24 h (Costes and Milhet, 1970) and even 20 h (Demers et al., 1991). Slight internerval discoloration of the leaves was noted among pepper plants receiving 24-h light (Costes and Milhet, 1970). Also, foliar chlorosis and loss of leaves was observed in pepper plants grown under uninterrupted light (Nilwik, 1981).

We found that exposing tomato and pepper plants to long photoperiods (tomato: over 17 h, pepper: over 20 h) resulted in negative effects such as chlorosis or blistering of leaves. In addition, long photoperiods also reduced growth and productivity. Where long photoperiods do not have negative effects on plant growth and productivity, the plants do not appear to benefit or utilize the additional light. Many questions arose from these early measurements: Why leaf chlorosis does appear? Why tomato plants cannot be cultivated using photoperiods exceeding 17 h, while pepper plants tolerate a photoperiod of 24? Which physiological processes are affected by long photoperiods?
 
L

LJB

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...nRiECg&sig=AHIEtbQnRMLYVMGvNBFmHNHVUqZ9DV9nHQ

7. Are trees affected because of the continuation if a minimum level of light, day-light and artificial, on a 24-hour basis with no opportunity to rest?

Growth responses that are due to photoperiod have no relationship to the concept of rest. This is a concept that mankind brings from its own way of living to the plant world. Plants live out-of-doors throughout 12 months and adjust their growth patterns in response to the light-dark signal from the environment. Their actions are modified by temperature, carbon dioxide, nutrition, water, and many other factors. Continuous lighting depresses the formation and maintenance of chlorophyll in leaves and promotes lengthening of the internodes of the branches and expansion of leaf area.
 
L

LJB

I would be interested,too. Tagged.

Edit: Found it.


Credits go to Gunnaknow who posted this on ICMAG:
Originally Posted by bounty29
I used 24/0 for the first and second grows, but then I saw someone that did a pretty good comparison of veg times. They used all the same clone, and did some with 24/0, some with 20/4, some with 18/6, and maybe one other timing. The ones that vegged with 20/4 yielded the most, so that's what I use. The only difference it is to me is I have to plug the timer in for veg too, not too big of a deal.

Sorry I don't have that comparison, I think it was on another forum somewhere and I have no idea where to start looking. If anyone else has seen it maybe they can post it.

Hi Bounty, perhaps you were referring to a post on another forum by Oldtimer1? He tested veg light cycles on different sativas. The best veg light cycle for indicas and crosses might be different, however. Here are his findings...

Quote(Oldtimer):
We did a lot of experiments with light times a few years back using known sat and sat dom clone lines.

With Vegging ie under hid lights.

20/4 produced the most sturdy growth and the most bulk. Best final yield, taken as 100%.
22/2 Less of both. yield 88%
18/6 Studier than 22/2 but slightly less bulk. yield 87%
24/0 Much lighter in all aspects than 18/6. Yield 79%
16/8 The weediest plants. yield 67%

Plants vegged to final pots under fluorescents at 20w per sq ft on 18/6 yield 49%

Have not tried 36 hrs dark but did try 48 hrs from 18/6 veg. The final yield was down between 15 and 20% by var the pure sats the biggest loss in final weight and caused the odd herm, [sats] it did reduce the flowering time by 5 to 8 days.

For the mum lines we have 20/4 to 12/12 gives the best crop weight and bud quality, really thats all I’m interested in.


ICMAG thread: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=64312&highlight=20/4+100%.

Original discussion was apparently on Overgrow, continued here: http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=35728&st=15&p=334916&#entry334916

Thank you very much for posting this. I also had ot1's test results saved after seeing them posted here, but never got a chance to read the source thread.
 

BonsaiBud

Member
We never tried to tell ourselves that is was "natural" for the plant.

However, we DID need just one more timer to volunteer for flower duty.
 

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