RAID bombs instead of Doctor Doom? and what is Imazalil?

[fyahfohigha]

I had a little problem with spidermites, and a little bigger one with blight/fungus issues this last run. And I thought alright, how am I going to knock this shit out once and for all? So.... RAID those bitches like a dirty pig!!!!!

I have in front of me a Raid Flea killer plus Fogger with the following mixture....
Pyrethins 0.500%
(S)-methoprene 0.075%
Piperonyl butoxide 1%
N-Octyl bicycloheptene dicarboximide 1.67%
and other ingredients (including sodium nitrite)

I know there are two similar products with one main difference. Some people use the other Raid with permitherins (spelling??) as the main ingredient report bad burn and death when plants where in the room), and the can warns you not to use it on plants, and remove them. However, the one I listed doesn't have the same warning (only for humans and animals). I know that Doctor doom bombs have the same base, and if not all, most of the ingredients listed in this one but it is 3 times more expensive and less potent. I was going to move all of the cuts out just to be safe and use the fogger on the room and equip. only to make sure I didn't have any critters sticking around for next time.

Does anyone have any objections, advice, or experience regarding using this instead of Doctor Doom. I'm not using it other than during veg, and I'm going to allow the room to vent well afterwards. However, I am curious how effective, and safe it would be to use this in the early stages even with the plants in the room instead of Doctor Doom?

I also have some Fungaflor brand fungus bombs for all fungus problems.
it only lists the active ingredient which is:
Imazalil 14.9%

I was told this this stuff is ok on plants, but I can't find any information on here, and can't decide if I should try and use it (even before some cuts have even rooted at all in the dome) to help them fight the virus before it causes damping off, and PM spores to form. While I am also scared it will kill the beneficial fungus I am using to promote root growth, and eventually cause them problems with rooting at such a young age. Any thoughts on this?

For those of you dealing with BORG or Fungus...
I have tried just about everything worth trying short of sulfur, and some of the harsh non organic products for control. taken all the steps to keep things neat, and clean and the only thing that really WORKS at getting them gone with my girls is dunking them in Zone/Penetrator and JMS stylet oil. Works wonders! I was going through the steps of sanitizing the room, and cleaning everything. I figured the best way to insure that I got everything in the walls, floors, and equip. was to do a total take down, bleach clean, bomb, clean some more, and bomb again, Maybe even sulfur burn once or twice to get it from all angles.
Just my 2 cents.
any change back is welcome. positive and negative.

keep life easy, and your girls SLEEZY! my friends! thanks.

 

[fyahfohigha]

no input...at all. cool.

 

[beer batter]

http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Chemical.jsp?Rec_Id=PC33040 -amazalil seems to be intended for citrus crops not in or around residantal areas (comercal greenhouse use only) -all tottal release say the same thing their, not for residental use but i feel safe with a pyrithrin only in first weeks of flower, and throught veg. my problem is crop density and that my veg cab is in the room next to the flower area, actually ventilates into the grow room wich exhuast outside.


The fungaflor bomb took out some young plants I had starting to flower in cups next to the sea of green trays- some of the sea of green has been effected but their older plants and the stems are mostly ok some foliage is effected and when I say stem problem is mean the stems on the young plants just shriveled up like they got hit by the amazalil and their was a toxic effect -at first the leaf stems weekend, kinked and just gave up -now I placed the can closer to this particular tray cause it next to the intake for my hydro hut but I haven’t had any problems beyond the tray of death and the plants in the sea of green closest to the tray of death

I think its very important to research active chemicals and their effectiveness before buying or applying them to a medical marijuana crop –this was a mistake I will never make again and I will recommend they hydro shop give stern warnings before recommending or even selling this product –its cheep so I know why I got it but this is a bad idea –don’t be so lazy you have to pick up products like this, even sulfur vaporizers can be hazardous to humans and plants if not used correctly but this is a Bad Actor Fungicide –meaning its nothing that should be used on marijuana EVER UNDER ANY
CIRCUMSTANCES I pray the carcinogen will somehow break down in the next 6-7 weeks cause this is our vital medication and that would be sort of a worst case senario***

the whole room fogged up and I imagine if it was going to work then it would have- I still have powdery mildew though, just not actively spreading or growing it seems -their still visual powdery mildew but its only even 3 days so I cant really tell if its active or not. I like the green cure better cause a spray will take away the visual powdery mildew and sort of wash the surface of the plant -this product is not safe for marijuana crops and I for one (whose grown for 5 years now) will never buy it again. Ill save up the 165 for a sulfur burner and use it carefully

now mind you I had my light turned off and my fans on my exhausts fans on so that the (toxic) treatment wont fog into the rest of my living space -its not intended for use in or around residential areas and I googled the active ingredient (best way to find info BTW) *it is a bad actor chemical
(1. PAN Bad Actors are chemicals that are one or more of the following: highly acutely toxic, cholinesterase inhibitor, known/probable carcinogen, known groundwater pollutant or known reproductive or developmental toxicant. NOTE! Because there are no authoritative lists of Endocrine Disrupting (ED) chemicals, EDs are not yet considered PAN Bad Actor chemicals. )
*Its registered for acute toxicity
*its a registered carcinogen in the state of California -their are specific rules to follow with worker exposure and stuff about safety window after application where workers are not to go in for 24 hours

I bet the hydro people didn’t tell you anything bout this? Id like to get my money back but the sad case is half of the clones from my seed stock that I was testing are dead and my crop was ill effected and it did little or completely nothing to rid the disease, don’t west 12 bucks on poison -safe and research sulfur burners. Green cure is the way to go, the total release pyrethrums is about the only total release ill ever use. (The fucking hydro people told me "they" recommend a second full release called attain when using the pyrethrin total release, another hydro store only sells the pyrethrum bomb and no fungaflor, no attain -their are unneeded products in my opinion and anyone who made the uneducated purchase should take it back before they rew their crop like the 12 clones I had to put down -they where the smallest and youngest of all my stock and closest to the fungaflor bomb -even a fan was blowing the chemical onto them i think, that’s the direction of the devastation. a big issue a have is popcorn ceilings and hard to clean areas like behind our hydro hut or inside the ducting for the hydro hut which is circulated in the grow room/flower area.

Personally a feel foolish for wasting $$$ on it when a should of saved more and more for the sulfur burner -crop density is increasing and manual sprays are a pain but so is finding what a found only knowing it never had to be this way~

Its probably good to keep in mind they sell products to grow "plants" and your looking for products to grow "medicine" so not everything that works on the nursery stock will or should work/ be use on medical marijuana plants (especially young delicate starters, bear in mind I have no clue if this will effect the yield of this crop being that some plants aren’t 100% anymore)

 

[guest121295]

I just popped a couple of Dr Doom bombs in 2 different grow rooms and they did not kill the mites or silverfish or funus gnats...They did burn the outer edges of some younger cuts and the plants had that "I'm not happy" look. The few mites I had were doing their business as usual the next day. I don't know about the raid bomb but it may be more powerfull and the plants may not like even more than mine did not like Dr Doom. I ended upjust blasting the plants with Capt Jacks Deadbug, this stuff killed the mites, I watched it work, then 3 days later I hosed the rooms down with floramite. Today there is not one live bug in either room.I guess in response to your question, the whole pest elimination is tediuos and toxic, maybe hold off on the Raid bomb? Best of luck to ya', Chaco.

 

[beer batter]

my buddy uses the pyrithrin bomb -small tottal release for spider mites, i had thrips and it cured them, i used the fungaflor in the same 24 hour period so that may of dont it BUT i beleave it was because of direct spray/conact with that bad actor chemical amazalil -fungaflor it only green cure in a pray bottle for me untill i get that 165 for sulfer burner

 

[beer batter]

i dip clones in green cure, my theory is that the powdery mildue can hide on any surface including ceilings and walls so a tottal release fogger would be ideal- not in this case, i was thinking about how it would effect the sol oganizms but this would only occure if it where during a drought period (or would only be sevier during a drought period because at this time oxigen is replaceing liquid mass in the soil/root zone) applying a sulfer vaporizer at this time may induce some sulfer to enter the soil.

you may prevent this by waiting to apply untill you have irrigated and the soil pushed out all the oxigen/air as liquid rushes in -its a big theory but i rarly have small thoughts/plots. the sulfer vaporizer will -in theory take out the hidden powdery mildue on your ceiling, in your carpets, and in the akward places mildew may hide in the room. -this can be done up to 4 weeks from harvest is my take (folks say the first 4 weeks but i tend to imagin their talking about an 8 week cycle not 9 or 10?

trust my and dont use that fongaflor or raid -use pyrithins if you have bugs and some sort of spray that you can dip small plants into for fungus untill a sulfer vaporizer can be had. i follow strict advice from my farmer budies and i dont think he's even heard of fungaflor he lives up in the 707 where spider mites are a bithc and the pyrithins tottal release is they way to go for sure (allways be safe and google active ingredeants and read the full lable befor useing any product)