Wow Hugeblunts!!! That second picture is even more impressive than the first one! That's not possible organically!!! hehehe Again... root space makes ALL the difference.
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Fox Farm makes beasters
- Thread starter Maijah
- Start date
Mr. Hugeblunts
Member
Look at the quote above it- no synthetic nutes
It just shows you what a master grower can do with the same plant we all have.
And BTW.. If Krusty needed 30 square feet to make one plant yield 2 lbs... Guess what? You can get the same from several plants in the same space. One plant's yields mean nothing, just bragging rights. It's about yields per square foot. An organic soil, indoor grower's only downfall is root space. Hydro systems often provide free access to tons of root space without having to push through a medium or compete with it's own roots.
And Hugeblunts... I was being facetious, playing around. I know organics can yield the same as synthetics, I was just making a point where it was obviously not already understood. Synthetics area easier to work with, easier to get the right dose with, but that style of growing leaves very much to be desired.
And Hugeblunts... I was being facetious, playing around. I know organics can yield the same as synthetics, I was just making a point where it was obviously not already understood. Synthetics area easier to work with, easier to get the right dose with, but that style of growing leaves very much to be desired.
I agree with Crazy Composter he has the right idea about organics. I used to grow mshrooms and coco coir was what i used to pull off an oz of mushrooms every three days. The biggest thing about organics is supporting the microlife since they help supply the root zone greatly.
Beneficial bacteria for nitrogen fixation and delivering enzymes to break down nutrients/organic matter. Beneficial Protozoa which destory older dead bacteria and older cells/organic matter, which also provides nitrogen fixation. Nitrogen fixation is what breaks down non-soluble nitrogen forms. In my eye's these act almost as enzymes breaking down older material and turning it into humus, something people spend money on for a chemical subsitute.
Beneficial fungi which can increase the root mass and substantially increase nutrient uptake while providing better resistance against heat,drought and sicknesses. They provide aeration to the root zone, bring in nutrients to the plants more easily. Not to mention they provide a surface barrier against non beneficial soil organisms.
Remember theres a reason why some of the fertilizer's are semi organic, theres some beneficial trace elements and hormones that can only be found in organic items. Unless of course you wanted to isolate that one chemical/hormone all by itself.
Sorry for my ranting i just believe that organics can yield just as much as any good grower can produce. It takes time and skill to understand how your plant reacts to different things. All of us have our different ways and were taught differently. I learned growing vegetables and will continue to grow organically because of its ease of use and less prone to burn.
Big yields can be accomplished using synthetics or organics if you know what your doing. The benefits of organic can only truly be seen by the grower and anyone else who participates in organics. I myself use organics because i believe that synthetics try to do what organic fertilizers do naturally. No need for marketing when it comes to organics because they supply most everything necessary.
Beneficial bacteria for nitrogen fixation and delivering enzymes to break down nutrients/organic matter. Beneficial Protozoa which destory older dead bacteria and older cells/organic matter, which also provides nitrogen fixation. Nitrogen fixation is what breaks down non-soluble nitrogen forms. In my eye's these act almost as enzymes breaking down older material and turning it into humus, something people spend money on for a chemical subsitute.
Beneficial fungi which can increase the root mass and substantially increase nutrient uptake while providing better resistance against heat,drought and sicknesses. They provide aeration to the root zone, bring in nutrients to the plants more easily. Not to mention they provide a surface barrier against non beneficial soil organisms.
Remember theres a reason why some of the fertilizer's are semi organic, theres some beneficial trace elements and hormones that can only be found in organic items. Unless of course you wanted to isolate that one chemical/hormone all by itself.
Sorry for my ranting i just believe that organics can yield just as much as any good grower can produce. It takes time and skill to understand how your plant reacts to different things. All of us have our different ways and were taught differently. I learned growing vegetables and will continue to grow organically because of its ease of use and less prone to burn.
Big yields can be accomplished using synthetics or organics if you know what your doing. The benefits of organic can only truly be seen by the grower and anyone else who participates in organics. I myself use organics because i believe that synthetics try to do what organic fertilizers do naturally. No need for marketing when it comes to organics because they supply most everything necessary.
tokerofdakill
Member
Im new to fox farm products and indoor..im feeding with fox farm p.o.m..but feeding in tea form..so im now getting the picutre, its gunna be real harsh and taste like crap? these are mdanzig blue streak auto's...thanks
G
good drown
yea man, just pull them, flush your nutes down the toilet and start over. can't you see, if you don't go organic its going to be unsmokeable
Nobody ever said that. As long as you flush the plant in the end your good. To take information and misuse it like that is terrible. To a new grower of any form(trying anything out) it shouldn't matter whether its the harshest smoke ever or the best smoke. One thing i think helps during flowering is using molasses this will help give some sugars to the plants, some believe it helps flavor.
Once you get your first indoor grow down and see how the plant grows, try new techniques. That's what the growing is about, experimenting and learning new things/ways.
Next time try mixing in some rainbow mix(I like it for the myco and guano) or some other type of dry organic fertilizer and try it out. For me i like using the Rainbow mix as a PK booster as well for microherd. Than supplement with liquid ferts i like PBP and liquid kelp but you can make your own.
If your a person who likes constant feeding though, it may take some adapting since all the nutes are available and if you supplement to often you can burn or neutralize chemicals causing lockout. Just a thought if you wanted to try some organics
Once you get your first indoor grow down and see how the plant grows, try new techniques. That's what the growing is about, experimenting and learning new things/ways.
Next time try mixing in some rainbow mix(I like it for the myco and guano) or some other type of dry organic fertilizer and try it out. For me i like using the Rainbow mix as a PK booster as well for microherd. Than supplement with liquid ferts i like PBP and liquid kelp but you can make your own.
If your a person who likes constant feeding though, it may take some adapting since all the nutes are available and if you supplement to often you can burn or neutralize chemicals causing lockout. Just a thought if you wanted to try some organics
HossCartwright
Member
Wow those are some nice outdoor plants, great work.
tokerofdakill
Member
G
good drown
i was joking dude, i think most people understood that
this thread in this forum is the equivalent to going to a religious forum and asking its members what it thinks about the devil or another religion. Im not saying organic is isn't good, its great, BUT in this forum you will most likely just get a biased, one sided argument. This post would be better in an open forum where people from both worlds can chime in
tokerofdakill
Member
tokerofdakill, No no no... I've been able to pull off killer grows of very smokeable pot from most of the commonly available liquid organic and non-organic ferts on the market. To get good results, you need to be able to know when to feed, and when you DO feed... make sure you don't give them too much. It's always better to underfeed than to overfeed... You can make up for underfeeding with a little more fertilizer... but overfeeding is a much more difficult thing to overcome.
In my opinion, the VERY MOST IMPORTANT SKILL for a connoisseur-quality cannabis grower is to be able to read the plant. What I mean is... you need to be able to know what the plant is asking for... Don't worry about all these mysterious deficiencies, no need to wonder what deficiency you're facing. Fact is... If you feed with a good fertilizer and the plants are doing well... don't feed again until you notice signs that the plant is about out of nitrogen. Nitrogen is the first nutrient to be used up after most regular fertilizer applications. So, if you know what the very first signs of nitrogen deficiency looks like, you know when to feed again. Simple.
I've written about this in magazines, on this site, many times over the years... but here it goes again... How to tell when your plants are experiencing the very first symptoms of early nitrogen deficiency: Leaf stems become a darker shade of red or purple. In more advanced cases, leaf veins also go red/purple, and eventually, if no nitrogen is added, the leaves themselves begin to go yellow, some may even die off as the plant decides which parts can be sacrificed during the famine. In this way, a cannabis plant acts like a corporation... if there are not enough resources to run at full capacity, the least important departments of the corporation will be sacrificed. This is what happens when you see leaves falling off during an aggressive flush, leaves are dropped because they're more valuable dead than alive. Notice... the buds are ALWAYS treated like VIPS because the plant's entire life is dedicated to one thing... making seeds, and of course, the buds are where seeds happen. So, even during nitrogen deficiencies, buds will continue to grow. I'm growing buds, not leaves, so keeping N levels so low that some leaves are sacrificed during mid-late flower is a sacrifice I'm totally comfortable with.
Here's a nitrogen-deprived Chemdawg D. The buds tasted like nothing but essence of Chem D, and the burn was as clean as it gets. A blunt burns right down to ashes in your fingers, never harsh at any stage, and the taste of Chem D was present and in the foreground with every single toke. The best smoke in my life has always come from plants that look like this for the right reason. There are reasons plants can look like this that are not good, but if you do this by depriving the plant of enough nitrogen to stay green, the result looks like this, and smokes better than most Cup winning herb.
In my opinion, the VERY MOST IMPORTANT SKILL for a connoisseur-quality cannabis grower is to be able to read the plant. What I mean is... you need to be able to know what the plant is asking for... Don't worry about all these mysterious deficiencies, no need to wonder what deficiency you're facing. Fact is... If you feed with a good fertilizer and the plants are doing well... don't feed again until you notice signs that the plant is about out of nitrogen. Nitrogen is the first nutrient to be used up after most regular fertilizer applications. So, if you know what the very first signs of nitrogen deficiency looks like, you know when to feed again. Simple.
I've written about this in magazines, on this site, many times over the years... but here it goes again... How to tell when your plants are experiencing the very first symptoms of early nitrogen deficiency: Leaf stems become a darker shade of red or purple. In more advanced cases, leaf veins also go red/purple, and eventually, if no nitrogen is added, the leaves themselves begin to go yellow, some may even die off as the plant decides which parts can be sacrificed during the famine. In this way, a cannabis plant acts like a corporation... if there are not enough resources to run at full capacity, the least important departments of the corporation will be sacrificed. This is what happens when you see leaves falling off during an aggressive flush, leaves are dropped because they're more valuable dead than alive. Notice... the buds are ALWAYS treated like VIPS because the plant's entire life is dedicated to one thing... making seeds, and of course, the buds are where seeds happen. So, even during nitrogen deficiencies, buds will continue to grow. I'm growing buds, not leaves, so keeping N levels so low that some leaves are sacrificed during mid-late flower is a sacrifice I'm totally comfortable with.
Here's a nitrogen-deprived Chemdawg D. The buds tasted like nothing but essence of Chem D, and the burn was as clean as it gets. A blunt burns right down to ashes in your fingers, never harsh at any stage, and the taste of Chem D was present and in the foreground with every single toke. The best smoke in my life has always come from plants that look like this for the right reason. There are reasons plants can look like this that are not good, but if you do this by depriving the plant of enough nitrogen to stay green, the result looks like this, and smokes better than most Cup winning herb.
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razor ridge
Active member
Here is Snowcap @ 10+ pounds
remarkably similar to a pic from a Tom Hill grow...
tokerofdakill
Member
tokerofdakill, No no no... I've been able to pull off killer grows of very smokeable pot from most of the commonly available liquid organic and non-organic ferts on the market. To get good results, you need to be able to know when to feed, and when you DO feed... make sure you don't give them too much. It's always better to underfeed than to overfeed... You can make up for underfeeding with a little more fertilizer... but overfeeding is a much more difficult thing to overcome.
In my opinion, the VERY MOST IMPORTANT SKILL for a connoisseur-quality cannabis grower is to be able to read the plant. What I mean is... you need to be able to know what the plant is asking for... Don't worry about all these mysterious deficiencies, no need to wonder what deficiency you're facing. Fact is... If you feed with a good fertilizer and the plants are doing well... don't feed again until you notice signs that the plant is about out of nitrogen. Nitrogen is the first nutrient to be used up after most regular fertilizer applications. So, if you know what the very first signs of nitrogen deficiency looks like, you know when to feed again. Simple.
I've written about this in magazines, on this site, many times over the years... but here it goes again... How to tell when your plants are experiencing the very first symptoms of early nitrogen deficiency: Leaf stems become a darker shade of red or purple. In more advanced cases, leaf veins also go red/purple, and eventually, if no nitrogen is added, the leaves themselves begin to go yellow, some may even die off as the plant decides which parts can be sacrificed during the famine. In this way, a cannabis plant acts like a corporation... if there are not enough resources to run at full capacity, the least important departments of the corporation will be sacrificed. This is what happens when you see leaves falling off during an aggressive flush, leaves are dropped because they're more valuable dead than alive. Notice... the buds are ALWAYS treated like VIPS because the plant's entire life is dedicated to one thing... making seeds, and of course, the buds are where seeds happen. So, even during nitrogen deficiencies, buds will continue to grow. I'm growing buds, not leaves, so keeping N levels so low that some leaves are sacrificed during mid-late flower is a sacrifice I'm totally comfortable with.
Here's a nitrogen-deprived Chemdawg D. The buds tasted like nothing but essence of Chem D, and the burn was as clean as it gets. A blunt burns right down to ashes in your fingers, never harsh at any stage, and the taste of Chem D was present and in the foreground with every single toke. The best smoke in my life has always come from plants that look like this for the right reason. There are reasons plants can look like this that are not good, but if you do this by depriving the plant of enough nitrogen to stay green, the result looks like this, and smokes better than most Cup winning herb.
thanks for all the info..ive flushed a few in my day..here is an alaskan ice from over the summer
Attachments
Mr.Meds
Member
Screw fox farms everything. If you want to buy prepackaged soil then try out CANNA or ROOTS. Or just buy COCO! Of course you can grow huge plants with organics. Fox Farms is not OMRI certified btw. My buddy grows consistent 5 pounders outside on the east coast of the U.S like 1,100ft above sea level. It's very achievable, it's about genetics and skill/know-how.
EDIT/P.S - and do you really think that those 10+ pounders are not producing as much product per square foot? I think you should do some more calculations.
EDIT/P.S - and do you really think that those 10+ pounders are not producing as much product per square foot? I think you should do some more calculations.
tokerofdakill
Member
not saying ur a liar..but what strain is ur buddy getting 5 pounder's with.sure isnt anything from the boo or bay i bet?..is he vegging them for a year , like the plants in pics here?
Mr. Hugeblunts
Member
thank you, i forgot to quote him. It's his pic
tokerofdakill
Member
Mr. Hugeblunts
Member
Those huge plants I posted were from clone, planted in spring. Nothing was vegged forever
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=134271&highlight=tom+hill+outdoor
Check out that thread for more pics/info
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=134271&highlight=tom+hill+outdoor
Check out that thread for more pics/info
