Need help with 220v and 120v wiring

[Inkster]

Right now i have my 220 wired (previously set up for a hot tub... 40a) to my intermatic 104 timer. Off of the 220v intermatic timer i am running my 220v lights and wired one outlet for 110 for my fans and light mover and what not..

How can i make a panel from the 220 wire that will run my intermatic timer... but also wired 110v that is not on the timer but has a constant connect with the 220 line. that way i will be able to use that line for my dehumidifier and room controller/fans and whatnot that cannot just be functional just the 12/12 cycle that the timer is on


thanks for reading this... i am going to do some searches to see if this question has already been asked... so much info to go through!

 

[dominicangreen]

i have this set up i can take pics tomorrow and give you full details
take a look at the first page
new grow room 36 silver haze

 

[Inkster]

i have this set up i can take pics tomorrow and give you full details
take a look at the first page
new grow room 36 silver haze

thanks! that would be a huge help. took a look at your set up (really nice btw.. im going to have go back and read it) and it looks like you have 2 timers one set to v110 and one to 220...


would i be able to put 220 on the timer and my 110v just outlet and no timer?

 

[PharmaCan]

It sounds to me like what you want to do is install a sub-panel. This would allow you to take either 120v or 240v (same as 110v/220v) off the panel, however you wanted, up to the capacity of the sub-panel. (For a continuous load, such as grow lights, capacity is defined as 80% of the sub-panel's rating.) In other words, yes, you could have timed 240v and un-timed 120v, up to a maximum of 32 total amps.

Here's a link to a diy I posted on sub-panels:

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=88896&highlight=sub-panel+diy

You can check that out and get some ideas from there. If you need something more specific, post some photos and/or the specs on what you want to run and you should get plenty of good advice on how to do it. There are 5-6 electricians posting on this forum and they are all very helpful.

PC

 

[gardenlover]

I will be finishing my sub-panel installation later today I will post some pics for you. If you want to run 110 off a 220 just take only one 110 leg from the two running into your timer. Obiousluly leave both runs hooked up to your timer but make sure you a good connections and grounding (don't try and screw in more that one wire to the screw securing the wire. I would just run one sort wire to the hot contact point the wire nut to the actual hot and to your now always hot plug. PM me if you need more help, I have a hrd time with words but I can do pics.

 

[Inkster]

It sounds to me like what you want to do is install a sub-panel. This would allow you to take either 120v or 240v (same as 110v/220v) off the panel, however you wanted, up to the capacity of the sub-panel. (For a continuous load, such as grow lights, capacity is defined as 80% of the sub-panel's rating.) In other words, yes, you could have timed 240v and un-timed 120v, up to a maximum of 32 total amps.

Here's a link to a diy I posted on sub-panels:

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=88896&highlight=sub-panel+diy

You can check that out and get some ideas from there. If you need something more specific, post some photos and/or the specs on what you want to run and you should get plenty of good advice on how to do it. There are 5-6 electricians posting on this forum and they are all very helpful.

PC

okay great, i am going to check out that link right now and see if that gives me an idea on what i should be doing... if not i will post up the spec for sure!

 

[Inkster]

I will be finishing my sub-panel installation later today I will post some pics for you. If you want to run 110 off a 220 just take only one 110 leg from the two running into your timer. Obiousluly leave both runs hooked up to your timer but make sure you a good connections and grounding (don't try and screw in more that one wire to the screw securing the wire. I would just run one sort wire to the hot contact point the wire nut to the actual hot and to your now always hot plug. PM me if you need more help, I have a hrd time with words but I can do pics.

are you saying that i can run a constant 110v via the timer if i wire the hot on Line 1 instead of load one and that would bypass it going through the timer?

 

[dominicangreen]

thanks! that would be a huge help. took a look at your set up (really nice btw.. im going to have go back and read it) and it looks like you have 2 timers one set to v110 and one to 220...


would i be able to put 220 on the timer and my 110v just outlet and no timer?

both timers are 240v and have two 30 amp brakers one for each timer then in the sub pannel theres a 15amp 115v braker in the same braker box

 

[dominicangreen]

let me know if your allset its like i said a sub pannel is what you need wired from your main braker box..in my thread what you see is a sub pannel

 

[PharmaCan]

are you saying that i can run a constant 110v via the timer if i wire the hot on Line 1 instead of load one and that would bypass it going through the timer?

What you would do is take one of the 120v lines going into the timer and, instead of connecting that wire directly to the Line lug, you would wire-nut two other wires to it. One would be a short wire to go to the Line lug, the other would be a longer wire going to your receptacle.

You might need to repeat the process with your neutral and ground wires, or just add additional wires to the bundle if your neutrals are just passing through the timer - but I think you get the idea.

Personally, I prefer a sub-panel - it gives you a lot more flexibility and it distributes the load better than taking power from one side of 240v circuit. If you mount all this paraphernalia on a piece of plywood, it's portable, which is a big plus if you are renting.

PC

 

[Inkster]

i have a sub pannel but its supplying power to the rest of the house.. would i need to make another subby?