light proofing hinges?
- Thread starter severian
- Start date
Some have luck with bicycle inner tubes
Weather stripping is another choice. Perhaps a frame of furring strips inside the door. Greater surface area to attach tubing or weather stripping plus, it forces the light to bend twice at 90º and light doesn't like to bend.
Weather stripping is another choice. Perhaps a frame of furring strips inside the door. Greater surface area to attach tubing or weather stripping plus, it forces the light to bend twice at 90º and light doesn't like to bend.
severian
Member
Thanks freezerboy. I figured there was something out there, but I didn't get any returns in my search.
I have a feeling the gorilla tape will also help - not being able to staple creates its own set of problems.
I was also thinking of attaching a 3" piece of trim to the sides of the cabinet that would stand out parallel to the door. If I put foam weather strip on the end of it, it would almost create a seal when the door closed. Kind of hard to explain without pictures.
thanks again.
I have a feeling the gorilla tape will also help - not being able to staple creates its own set of problems.
I was also thinking of attaching a 3" piece of trim to the sides of the cabinet that would stand out parallel to the door. If I put foam weather strip on the end of it, it would almost create a seal when the door closed. Kind of hard to explain without pictures.
thanks again.
That's where I was going with the furring strip frame. As you say, hard to describe without a pic.
Recess the frame 1/8 inch and cover it's face with 1/4 inch thick weather stripping and the compression (along with 90º angles) should block your light. Consider a lip inside one of the doors for the same reason.
severian
Member
Yes, because it is metal I am going to look for a metal T or L shape channel that I can bolt on.
For the middle I am using a sheet of plastic that rolls down from top to bottom. It is cumbersome so a door lip would be preferable. But so far it does the best for the middle gap.
The shelf adds complications because it is flush with the door stop.
For the middle I am using a sheet of plastic that rolls down from top to bottom. It is cumbersome so a door lip would be preferable. But so far it does the best for the middle gap.
The shelf adds complications because it is flush with the door stop.
T
THC_Decapitator
I had a metal cabinet before . It was a pain in the butt to light proof .I got all the various weather king weather stripping from the depot , before you no it some would peel back .I tried the duct tape etc etc . I just ended up putting some black vinyl over the door with velcro and I was done .Roll up style , its not as stealth anymore but you can put any kind of cover over the front to blend in
Great advice here. The inner tubes have worked for others in your boat.
i abandoned trying to make doors lightproof and just get a piece of 2 inch Styrofoam and cut it to fit and wrap it in panda plastic plus two pieces of 1/4 inch plywood one on either side to bolt a handle to,that and a 2 inch lip around the door opening and problem solved for me,been using the same door plug on two different rooms it works so well
door in place
door removed
curtain up
the same principles should apply to your cab.
door removed
curtain up
the same principles should apply to your cab.
Couple of threads you may want to poke through.
FullMetalJacket is gone now but, was doing the metal cab thing.
HoosierDaddy isn't doing metal but, he's still around to ask.
FullMetalJacket is gone now but, was doing the metal cab thing.
HoosierDaddy isn't doing metal but, he's still around to ask.
