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Cooling 10kw
- Thread starter Decisive
- Start date
My best guess is yes, but I don't think there are too many people qualified to answer that question with confidence.
What will you do next spring and summer?
What will you do next spring and summer?
add more 8" fans to it or install a 12" on a manifold
10,000 watts, I'd be looking into AC.
Even with freezing air temperatures being pulled through the hoods along with outdoor ambient temperature freezing when the lights are on? lets say hypothetically running in a garage with all walls except 1 directly in contact with the outdoors.
its a sealed room with 1x 6" fan connected to a 6" carbon filter constantly recirculating and a dehumidifier also with a carbon filter built in also recirculating. Yea i was thinking the same thing, if the last hoods in the series are too warm we can just throw another 8" in there. Those XXXL hoods have the nice big 8" flanges. I guess i was hoping that if the hood cooling is reasonably efficient whatever heat leaks into the room wont be too bad and will equilibriate with the outdoors quite quickly since its just so cold out there (freezing). Of course i have no practical basis for this assumption except for what i've learned from thermodynamics.
Are you going to shut down in the summer when the garage temps top 100ºF?
Winter temps can fluctuate wildly. One day it's snowing, the next it's 80º.
I'd at least check it out.
No actually for the summer a split AC would definitely be installed, however at the moment electricity limitations are forcing us to not use that. In the summer some major electrical upgrades would be made that would allow running that. At the moment though we are forced not to use an AC. In this general region there are very few fluctuations in winter temperatures and night temperatures are basically the same until March-April and since lights are only run at night I am confident temperature fluctuations wont be a huge problem.
ilovethewest
Member
also you could hook up a thermostat to half your ballasts, that way if temps max out, half your light stops, half your heat goes away, and the plants live.
Youd be better off splitting the bank up in half.Thats a whole lot of heat for 2 fans in line not to mention that the airstream inside the fans are usually rated for 140 degrees.Do a dry run. Set up the lights,and meausure the outgoing airstream with a hand held temp gauge.Also take a reading under the glass lens where the babies will be anything hotter than 80 is way too much.Try 3 lights in a bank and add a light and measure the temp as you add a light.
A 6" carbon filter is good for about 2 lights. You need 3 X CAN150 with a Vortex 12" fan on each one, with speed controllers.
For inline hood cooling, I use 1 6-8" fan per four hoods, pushing not pulling. Pull the air in from outside into the fan, then thru the hoods and back outside. Supplemental cooling will be needed, a 3-4 ton AC should be about right with well-cooled hoods. Are you running CO2?
BTW, I use a drafty old tin outbuilding for my 8000w grow, and this time of year I have ZERO cooling. My day temps are in the fities and nights are in the upper 30's to low 40's. Windows are shut, no air cooled hoods, and no AC. Just dehueys and oscillating fans and 2 big scrubbers recirculating the air in the room. DayLights on the temps are in the mid seventies, lights off in the low 60's (with 2 1500w heaters on, I also have a 15K BTU propane heater in there for really cold days/nights if needed.)
Why are you recommending such massive cooling for me when you are using none in winter yourself? Just cuirous as to your reasoning. I see your setup is vented I'm running a sealed room with co2 i have just about the same day night temps as you and the solution I'm looking for is just for winter and into early next year after that a split ac will be put in. So in your opinion too much heat would be leaking into the room even though its freezing outside when the lights are running?
Because it's doubtful you have as many air leaks or as little insulation as I have (none.) I'm basically growing outdoors without sunshine! lol
I also tell you this because this was my first full year in my current spot, and I learned that my AC's were inadequate, as is my insulation, sealing, and heating.
To be properly prepared for a year round operation, you need to be able to cool on the hottest heatwaves, and the coldest cold snaps.
Sorry if I confused you, I should have explained better. my room is an anomaly, but I guess the point is there WILL be trial and error in your room, whatever we figure on paper is just a starting point.
Yes if your room is sealed and with CO2 you'll almost certainly need cooling, the cold air running through the hoods will not cool the room effectively. How big an AC you need is a tough thing to decide in the winter though! I'd say try it without and see how it runs.
Although, with CO2 you want it at 85*F with the lights on, hell in the winter you may need to disconnect your hood ducts so you keep the heat. Trial and error my friend!
I also tell you this because this was my first full year in my current spot, and I learned that my AC's were inadequate, as is my insulation, sealing, and heating.
To be properly prepared for a year round operation, you need to be able to cool on the hottest heatwaves, and the coldest cold snaps.
Sorry if I confused you, I should have explained better. my room is an anomaly, but I guess the point is there WILL be trial and error in your room, whatever we figure on paper is just a starting point.
Yes if your room is sealed and with CO2 you'll almost certainly need cooling, the cold air running through the hoods will not cool the room effectively. How big an AC you need is a tough thing to decide in the winter though! I'd say try it without and see how it runs.
Although, with CO2 you want it at 85*F with the lights on, hell in the winter you may need to disconnect your hood ducts so you keep the heat. Trial and error my friend!
Because it's doubtful you have as many air leaks or as little insulation as I have (none.) I'm basically growing outdoors without sunshine! lol
I also tell you this because this was my first full year in my current spot, and I learned that my AC's were inadequate, as is my insulation, sealing, and heating.
To be properly prepared for a year round operation, you need to be able to cool on the hottest heatwaves, and the coldest cold snaps.
Sorry if I confused you, I should have explained better. my room is an anomaly, but I guess the point is there WILL be trial and error in your room, whatever we figure on paper is just a starting point.
Yes if your room is sealed and with CO2 you'll almost certainly need cooling, the cold air running through the hoods will not cool the room effectively. How big an AC you need is a tough thing to decide in the winter though! I'd say try it without and see how it runs.
Although, with CO2 you want it at 85*F with the lights on, hell in the winter you may need to disconnect your hood ducts so you keep the heat. Trial and error my friend!
I really appreciate all your input, thanks very much. So you think with CO2 in winter i'd be fine with the cooling setup i had in mind, but in summer or any other warmer months i would have major problems then? I pretty much expected this and like I said earlier in the thread a split AC unit is definitely definitely getting put in in April along with upgrades to the hood ducting. I am positive you are right that AC will be necessary but for now i just want to stick to winter- april as a scenario then do the necessary upgrades after that.
