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Reverse Osmosis Questions

Balazar

Member
I haven't seen a thread for RO so I'm gonna start one.

I have a Hydrologic Stealth RO 100. It has done me well, but is starting to give me some problems. I tapped off of my washing machine cold water line to install it. It has been working good until I noticed that it has just slowed to a drip and the waste water line is just spewing like a waterfall. Is the membrane used up? wtf is going on here?
 

Balazar

Member
no pre filters :( except the ones that come on there a charcoal one and a sediment filter. I guess I should have been using some kind of pre filter to take the majority of the gunk out. How do I backflush the membrane?
 

Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Veteran
I'd go on Ebay and look for Dvon-b RO filters, I got a 125GPD 6-stage RO from him for like $80. Cheaper than buying replacement filters for it, actually. Better units have a valve you can open for backflushing, but if the filters are clogged up it's probably better to toss the whole thing and start over if you can.
 

GrowGeek

Member
IMG_0661.jpg


Here is a pic of my RO filter setup. I took the filter canisters from an old Ro setup I had laying around, replaced the filters (carbon / 5 micron) and made it the prefilter for the new system.

Like Lazyman pointed out 6 stage systems can be had on the bay for less than 100 bucks. Mine is such a system. I did add a booster pump, dual inline ppm meters, uv filter, and a permeate pump to the base 6stage system. I removed the de-ioniser filter mine came with. Both the pumps keep the pressure correct for the membrane to function best. I try to get the water as clean as I can before it gets to the membrane, and try to keep the membrane happy by applying just a bit of loving pressure. About 90psi (from 45psi). :) My filter chain is carbon/5micron/carbon/1micron/1micron/uv/membrane/polisher.

The prefilters get changed every six months, the membrane and uv bulb once a year. Once you have the setup, you can buy your filters in bulk and save a ton. I picked up 5 160gpd membranes for less than 50 bucks. That's 5 years of filters. The pre-filters cost about the same a year when you get them by the case or lot. Uv bulbs are about 12 bucks each.

Backflushing the membrane on newer systems is just opening a valve and letting water flush by the filter without going through the filter itself. washing the buildup off the outside of the filter.
 
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BonsaiBud

Member
OP: I've got a 6 stage job like in the pic on the right. 2 prefilters, 1 carbon block, R/O membrane then 2 deionized in series.

One thing that the directions said was important was that you need to remove IRON! Iron will clog the membrane. You can run it in a home with a water softener (removes iron) the R/O will remove the salt.

I would guess that some place makes a special pre-filter for iron. I've never lived in such an area and suffered that problem. You may need a water softener upstream.
 

Bunz

Active member
Sounds like the membrane is clogged. If you don't keep up with your sediment/charcoal filter maintenance, you will clog the membrane. I put a pressure gauge in line on my ro/di setup and it lets me know when the filters need changing. About every 3 months here, but I use 3 gallons a day topping off my saltwater reef tank. I just had to change out my 4 year old membrane a few months back.
 

Balazar

Member
Wow thanks for all of the replies guys. I ordered a new 150 GPD membrane and new filters plus a prefilter to help out and the backflush parts. I'm thinking about getting a second membrane to expand my flow up to 300 GPD. That would also minimize the amount of waist water. It's only been two and a half months and it was all clogged up. But I had no pre filters so thats got to have something to do with it.
 

Balazar

Member
This is the site I ordered my parts from. Looking at ebay today I think I made a mistake though. I could have bought a new system like GrowGeek and made the old one into a set of pre filters. I want to hook multiple membranes together and make a more efficient system.
 

Bunz

Active member
This is the site I ordered my parts from. Looking at ebay today I think I made a mistake though. I could have bought a new system like GrowGeek and made the old one into a set of pre filters. I want to hook multiple membranes together and make a more efficient system.

Using multiple membranes won't make the system more efficent, it'll just produce more water. Besides do you really need 300 gallons per day?

Here is the system I bought 4 years ago.

http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1TYPHOON/Typhoon_5_stage_RODI_Reefkeeper_75_GPD.html

75 gpd DOW membranes have the highest rejection rate (97%) meaning they produce the cleanest water.:smokeit:
 
2

2fast4u2

you really should use a prefilter.

PS, you are running a 1/4 waste ratio w/o another membrane to filter the waste as well. Im at a 1/1 waste/ro which is clutch.

Notice i run a redundant prefilter before my water runs through the system, keeps things flowing.

picture.php


picture.php
 
2

2fast4u2

Using multiple membranes won't make the system more efficent, it'll just produce more water. Besides do you really need 300 gallons per day?


you clearly have no idea what you are talking about. Using a second membrane to filter the waste water from the first membrane brings your waste to a perfect 1/1.

read up.
 

Marlo

Seedsweeper
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Thanks for starting this thread Balazar

I got a RO system as a gift 2 years ago and it hasn't even been out of the box yet!
I'm so used to going down to the Water Depot and getting water for $.60/gallon

I would really like to set it up, but don't know shit about plumbing.

Maybe this thread will make me break out the toolbox.


MARLO
 

Balazar

Member
Ok, so here is the new setup. I'll try to get pics soon.
Washing machine cold water line split with garden hose splitter >
1 micron sediment filter >
carbon prefilter >
2nd carbon filter (this one gets chloramines) >
150 GPD membrane.

I'm using one of the back pressure activated valves that turns off the supply of water to the membrane when the float valve in my storage barrel shuts off. I also have a backflush kit on there that bypasses the regulator on the waist line. I'm thinking of grabbing a 5 micron sediment filter to go in front of the whole thing.

If I end up grabbing another membrane I will be hooking the intake for it to the waist line from the first membrane. And yes I do need 300 GPD all of my resiviors top off with float valves directly from the ro line.

I use House & Garden nutes for my RDWC and they are designed for ro water. It makes water prep a lot easier as long as your filters are working. I use Fox Farm for soil. It's cake with ro as well. It's ph balanced so you just dump it in the ro and add a little cal-mag. No messing with ph :)

has anyone hooked more than 2 membranes together? How many could you do before needing a booster pump?
 

uglybunny

Member
My municipal water company treats the water with chloramine, do the water vending machines you see at grocery stores and gas stations remove chloramine? I've looked up RO kits, and to remove chloramine they all require a special attachment which is why I'm worried the chloramine might not be gone.

Peace,

UB
 

Longhair

Member
My municipal water company treats the water with chloramine, do the water vending machines you see at grocery stores and gas stations remove chloramine? I've looked up RO kits, and to remove chloramine they all require a special attachment which is why I'm worried the chloramine might not be gone.

Peace,

UB

Hello,
The Machines At The Store (Glacier) Are RO. Goes Thru 3 Charcoal Filters, RO, UV Scan & 1 More Filter.
PPM-008
PH-6.5
$0.25 A Gal.

ANYBODY
----------
Do RO Systems Need A Holding Or Storage Tank? If So Can It Be Eliminated?
I Only Need 40-60 Gal. A Month & I Don't Want That Much Hanging Around.

400 Watt MH
4X4X7 Tent
4 Plants
2-20 Gal Tubs DWC

Thank You
Longhair
 

Balazar

Member
There are other augmentations that can be added for chloramine. I have a carbon filter that is designed to remove them. So I have 2 stages after the sediment pre filter. You can also get the DI that goes after the RO membrane. That is supposed to bring your tds below 10. The UV doesn't do anything for tds but it guarantees there will be zero living organisms/germs bacteria what have you.
 
Just picked up a RO system and the feed line is made to hook to a garden hose faucet. How do i put a faucet like that under a bathroom sink?
 
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