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Is it better to start off in large or small containers?

PhenotypeX

Member
Hi guys, im starting some plants but i would like to know if i should start them out directly into 4 gallon containers. Why or why not?
 

OPT

Member
I have heard of people starting clones in bigger containers, and only uppotting once. But as far as seeds go, like Celticman says, multiple transplants.
 

gonzo`

Member
I'm on week 5 now. I planted 50 seeds in a 4x4 container with 150L of peat based "soil" and started the lights on 12/12. I'm now left with 20 plants that are over 12inches high...

The benefits of starting in a large container are that you don't stress the plants at all. Soil temperature stays very constant (read: no unnecessary stretching), you have less to worry about with nutrient and pH flux and above all, you benefit from lateral root growth that surpasses any small container...

That said, multiple transplants work just fine, I just hate the hassle of having to do it. With pots you can move the plants around which is a nice benefit...

Just experiment, maybe start one or two off in a large container and do the rest with multiple transplants. I think the biggest issue is that people don't know how to water properly and end up giving too much water to a small plant in a big container. That will severely stunt growth and you won't be happy with the results.
 

ibjamming

Active member
Veteran
Most people have a hard time keeping the moisture levels in large pots in the correct range. It's VERY easy to over water in a large pot. Once you get good at it, give it a try, otherwise, stick to smaller pots for seedlings.
 

PhenotypeX

Member
Let me say, I am not starting directly from seed in a 4 gallon container. I started the seeds in 24oz soda bottles, i have them under a 250w hps on a 12/12 light cycle until sex is determined. As soon as i determine a plant is female im going to transplant it into 4 gallon bucket and flower for a LONG time.

It would seem to me that starting out in large containers would allow the plant to get a huge root system right off the start instead of becoming rootbound in a small container, stunting its growth and losing days or weeks of growing.

Celticman: I dont understand what root zones are please explain further.
 
S

sparkjumper

The correct way is to start either seedplant or clone in a small 4 inch pot and let the plants roots literally fill that baby.From there I go to two gallon pots and again veg until the rootball fills the container.I am usually haing to water every other day,thats a good indicator of the plant needing a larger container.After I've vegged a few weeks more I'll take cuts,transplant to 3 gal,and flower.There are some good reasons for all of this as growing indoors means you have a finite amount of soil to work with,you want the plant to utilize all available media.If you plant into a container thats too large,the roots tend to grow along the sides of the container and swirl at the bottom leaving a "big empty" right in the middle,a very poor use of available media.As for the shock bullshit man I just dont get it.No literally I dont get it lol.I guess I'm just lucky lol but a plant usually looks much better after just 2 or 3 days from transplant.No shock at all
 
B

boo

Let me say, I am not starting directly from seed in a 4 gallon container. I started the seeds in 24oz soda bottles, i have them under a 250w hps on a 12/12 light cycle until sex is determined. As soon as i determine a plant is female im going to transplant it into 4 gallon bucket and flower for a LONG time.


seems like you don't veg your plants...you really need to go back to the basics and rethink how you grow...it's just that simple
 
:laughing: True dat. If you start small plants in large pots the roots will shoot rite to the bottom rite away and it'll really be a waste of space and soil. And dont over flower..... once your buds peak they'll only go downhill from there.....
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
there is no advantage to starting seeds or clones in big containers except for convenience and avoiding the work of transplanting. even if you dont overwater the small plants in big containers you miss the 'piston' action of regular watering which introduces fresh oxygen to the containers. unless you are a complete muppet you should be able to tranplant with stressing the plant.

proper potting on allows you to give your plant the right soil at the right times of its lifecycle. it will have more rootmass too.

the only exception to this is auto flower plants whose roots stop growing quite early in life - these are best started in their final container.

V.
 

Hank Hemp

Active member
Veteran
Let me say, I am not starting directly from seed in a 4 gallon container. I started the seeds in 24oz soda bottles, i have them under a 250w hps on a 12/12 light cycle until sex is determined. As soon as i determine a plant is female im going to transplant it into 4 gallon bucket and flower for a LONG time.


seems like you don't veg your plants...you really need to go back to the basics and rethink how you grow...it's just that simple
:yeahthats
 

magiccannabus

Next Stop: Outer Space!
Veteran
I have kept 3 foot tall bushes in a 52 ounce convenience store cup. I start really small, and work my way up. Someone on here told me a while back that roots tend to go out to the edges of the pot and down to the bottom. They were 100% correct. I would end up with a big void in the middle with very little roots. Now I have solid roots, because I start in a 12 ounce container, and transplant to a 24 or 32oz container, and from there to a 52oz container. After that I move to an 8 inch plastic pot, and from there to a 10 inch plastic pot. If you don't maximize your roots you're wasting space. The only thing a bigger pot will give you from the start is more water retention. That's it.
 

hashit

Member
Another reason why I start off in 16oz cups is that its easier to water! It's a pain in the ass going directly to 3+gallon pots and watering them all...tons of water.
 

stihgnobevoli

Active member
Veteran
seems like you don't veg your plants...you really need to go back to the basics and rethink how you grow...it's just that simple
what is veg really? anyway? plants dont just start flowering because the lights are at 12/12. at the equator its 12/12 all the time yet we see plants that take 4-6 months to finish. plants wont flower till they mature, all the time leading up till when they are mature is veg time. so how can you say he doesnt veg and he needs to rethink how he grows and blah blah blah. diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks. i start my plants under 13/11 sometimes i hope i dont need to go back and rethink how i grow.
 

PhenotypeX

Member
thanks stihgnobevolvegi your exactly right. Due to my current situation, my grow room is both a veg and flowering chamber. I have an entire basement the size of a house at my disposable, but only a 250w hps light which only covers an area less than the size of a car. I also have a 4ft duel 40w bulb flourescent shop light that i plan to also start using i can fit like 30+ soda bottles under that alone. But since both lights are in my basement i have to keep them on the same light schedule otherwise would interfere with each others sleep patterns
 
Let me say, I am not starting directly from seed in a 4 gallon container. I started the seeds in 24oz soda bottles, i have them under a 250w hps on a 12/12 light cycle until sex is determined. As soon as i determine a plant is female im going to transplant it into 4 gallon bucket and flower for a LONG time.


seems like you don't veg your plants...you really need to go back to the basics and rethink how you grow...it's just that simple

This is an example of why you should never believe anything you read on the internet about growing. Try growing from 12/12 from seed and you will be surprised. My advice to anyone is to try everything different ways and see how it turns out, and try to figure out what went right and what went wrong and then figure out exactly why. As in science, try to find evidence yourself to support every theory or treat it with skepticism.
 
L

LJB

To PhenotypeX,

Every plant, tree, shrub, flower, etc. has only one root zone.

To Everyone:

Do scientific studies exist that demonstrate transplanting more is better?

It seems counterintuitive. If you restrict the roots, than you restrict the shoots. Please correct if I'm wrong, but it seems that every time the plant is allowed to be rootbound or close to it, than Pn and growth probably slows.

I have in the past gone from seed/clone ---> 4" ---> 1 gallon ---> 2 gallon (finish) or from seed/clone ---> 4" ---> 1 gallon ---> 2 gallon ---> 3 gallon (finish). In the future, the one gallon will be cut from the process.
 

PhenotypeX

Member
Having so many different responses, my only option seems to try both methods out myself and note the differences. When i do this, i will most likely create a thread and post my results. I will transplant one plant from 24oz to 1 gal, to 2 gal, to 3 gal, to 4 gal. And I will transplant one from 24oz directly to 4 gal container and grow both out fully under the same circumstances. When I harvest the plants i will dissect the root system to see what happened and if there is an rootless area in the middle.
 
Seeds multi, Clones big.

Seeds multi, Clones big.

I like to start seeds off in small containers, specially ones that aren't feminized. Helps pick the good ones from the bad ones, without wasting soil. With clones I've noticed extreme growth when I put them in a large container with no transplant. More than ones that I've had to transplant once or twice. I try not to transplant more than 2 times, no shock or stress means I have happy girls.:tree::watchplant:
 

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