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pH swing, does it really tell us what we think it does?

DIYer

Active member
Ok so today i was thinking about what most of us do and assume when growing hydro, if its really right, and if the plants we grow are actually telling us what they want when we think we're listening.

As we all know you want pH to swing between say for sake of example 5.5-60, because plants cant eat all parts of the nutrients we feed them at any one specific pH level.
Now you can argue that range if you want but lets not for the sake of this discussion because that's not really the point im getting at.
I've also read many times and been told by the resident experts on this site that if you watch the swing in pH you can tell what your plants want.
In short:
pH rise = more nutes are being ate then water drank causing pH to go up (under feeding)
This is NEVER something ive had happen no matter how little i feed.
pH drop = more water being drank then nutes eaten causing higher nute concentration in remaining water and in turn lower pH (over feeding)
This is always what i see.
Also ive read that you want this swing weather it be up or down to take place over the period of a week or two.

The problem i see with this is that over that long a period of time there is a level of evaporation from any res, im my arid climate with my aero system slopping water all over 24/7 a good bit of evaporation. So how can anyone read anything more into pH movement other then that the percentage of h20 to nutes in ones res has changed? From the plants drinking no doubt, and that info would be useful by itself, but evaporation throws a cog into hearing ones plants in my opinion.

To go even a step further, i recently added a res refiller system/float to my current aero grow, but after thinking about it this only dilutes (pun intended) my readings even further. If i, or anyone else with an auto res refiller system, has it adding straight RO water (7.0pH, 10ppm) that's going to move your pH upward over time no matter how little your plants eat (remember plants eating nutes out of res normally moves pH up) i would imagine you could over feed big time, plants could all but stop eating, and pH would still rise because of the 7.0pH RO water you'd be adding. So i thought ok what if instead i add pH adjusted RO water, say make it 6.0pH 10ppm, that should slow my swing from 5.5 up to 6.0 and i wouldn't ever go over,.. but even with this setup can i really read pH movement as the plants saying i want more of this or less of that?

So all that being said i guess what im asking is, how do i really know im not over/under feeding? Ya i can look at the leaves and make sure there not burned, and if there not give more food till they start to then back off, but i hate blindly guessing like that. Is there anyway to really know by reading pH movement?

What say you? :joint:
 

hilbie

Member
u guys with your readoffs n read ins and all this headache over grwoing a weed, ph your nutes going in sure, but just feed the dam plant and not the medium and move on-
 

slappyjack

Member
I top off my rez with tap water through a float valve (coco, drip to recycle). When I reach about 14 days flower everything stabilizes and I don't have to use PH up or down the rest of the grow. I just add enough nutes to bring the PH to 5.8 and leave it alone. Works the same way every time. I don't know why or how this works, but it just does.
 

DIYer

Active member
hilbie,..
hmm,.. no offense but that sounds like the logic of someone who's grown mediocre weed to me,.. and doesnt care to watch the science channel, lol
if you dont have anything nice to say don't say anything at all, theres a science to this and unlike some i care to know it
 

DIYer

Active member
I top off my rez with tap water through a float valve (coco, drip to recycle). When I reach about 14 days flower everything stabilizes and I don't have to use PH up or down the rest of the grow. I just add enough nutes to bring the PH to 5.8 and leave it alone. Works the same way every time. I don't know why or how this works, but it just does.

man must be nice :) i hope to get that dialed in someday,.. even though i don't see how what you're saying is possible,.. if you top off with straight water, and i assume that's around 7.0pH, you would constantly be adding nutes to keep it down to 5.8,.. not to mention all the nutes ur adding via straight tap water,.. i don't see how that couldn't over feed but then again im sure there's some variables to your system i don't know of, never done coco either,.. i cant use tap water though, its about 700ppm where i live. I buy it at the walmart culligan water station for $1.30 for 5 gallons,.. i would love to make my own by purifying my tap water but everything ive tried so far goes through filters way too fast, probably since im starting with such dirty water (700ppm) to begin with. Maybe you can boil it clean i don't know,.. have to look that up,.. but then again that'd probably use more then $1.30 worth of gas on my stove to do, lol
Oh well im off topic now,.. how do i know what my plants want short of fckin up and backin up?
 

Scrogerman

Active member
Veteran
Hey D.I.Yer,

Yeah dude, some of what you have said is correct, and some of what you have said aint quiet right(imo), especially on the P.H- i think your understanding on it is not right dude-no offence intended (have you read Bigtokes BASIC water chemistry thread?). Just because of P.H swing it is not a 100% surety it is over or under feeding!
I think keeping the correct solution levels in the res is paramount i.e-Top-Up on a regular basis, doing this will help keep a stable and more balanced solution, Also, in Hydro this is a very good reason for dumping-out once a week(every 7 days) for fresh solution and gradually over time increasing the CF/EC to match the stage of growth for that paticular breed. Yes all breeds are different and require different or prefer different P.H & CF/EC values as you may know. It's a case of sussing out your keeper pheno's requirements and applying the correct values in terms of P.H CF/EC-24/7, unless you are lucky enough to be gifted that paticular information by either someone on here, which often happens to me, or gifted the info by someone that lives in your area, which is even better for obvious reasons.

Dude, if the P.H in my Res started to drop down, the first thing that would spring to my mind would be, 'What is the temp' in my res!! then i would be thinking a bad bacteria overload causing the swing down (if temps were touching 78-80 say,i would know i was right). I would not be thinking i have Overfed as i am sure if you had overfed you would get tip burn/singe, you would notice pretty quick and then you would just ease off on the feed a little and repeat untill you find a happy E.C for your babies. The longer the period for P.H swing is preferable because a slow P.H swing causes less stress to the plants-we dont want to be stressing-out our babies now do we. In Hydro to my knowledge a small daily shift (upward drift) of say .3 / .4 is fine and a good indication of a healthy system. You can read to some extent what is going on in the res by gauging water levels and P.H/E.C drift, but to only some extent there are always other variables to consider, 'Always'. If you dont own a E.C/C.F meter i would invest in one fella for obvious reasons. Take the guessing out of it. I swear by the truncheons myself, Had them years and never have feed issues.
The awnser to your Q- IMO, is this;- You and everyone for that matter has to get to know their keeper pheno, what she requires, loves even, Requirements change throughout the life cycle ,P.H & EC and other variables too. Like i said you would have to be gifted the info or suss things out for yourself, Second time round you are gonna know inside out the requirements of your pheno- Its the only way that i have ever heard of anyway dude.
Hope i have helped some dude, i love this paticular issue and have studied it for years. Out of interest what are your RES Temps dude??
Later dude & Be-Lucky................Scrogerman' :smoker::smoker::respect:
 

Scrogerman

Active member
Veteran
man must be nice :) i hope to get that dialed in someday,.. even though i don't see how what you're saying is possible,.. if you top off with straight water, and i assume that's around 7.0pH, you would constantly be adding nutes to keep it down to 5.8,.. not to mention all the nutes ur adding via straight tap water,.. i don't see how that couldn't over feed but then again im sure there's some variables to your system i don't know of, never done coco either,.. i cant use tap water though, its about 700ppm where i live. I buy it at the walmart culligan water station for $1.30 for 5 gallons,.. i would love to make my own by purifying my tap water but everything ive tried so far goes through filters way too fast, probably since im starting with such dirty water (700ppm) to begin with. Maybe you can boil it clean i don't know,.. have to look that up,.. but then again that'd probably use more then $1.30 worth of gas on my stove to do, lol
Oh well im off topic now,.. how do i know what my plants want short of fckin up and backin up?

Hey Fella,
Just noticed you are also saying that you Cant use your Tap Water there ;- 'Why-Not' Dude?. Hard water like yours has a much higher buffering capacity for your P.H, if that is the case it should be much more stable than what you are saying - well, should be anyway. Are you using Hard water Nutes dude??
I'm thinking a Bacteria issue myself. Do you use Oxy-Plus(hydrogen Peroxide) If you give your Res a full dose of that stuff for a couple of days, it will rinse out any bacteria, the only draw back doing this is it kills all the good bacteria too. But hey, at least you will be rest assured you have no bad bacteria in your res.....Always use the stuff myself and they love it, just dont use it all the time(everyday). Hope this Helps'
Be-Lucky...................'Scrogerman!!:sasmokin:
 

DIYer

Active member
Hey D.I.Yer,

Yeah dude, some of what you have said is correct, and some of what you have said aint quiet right(imo), especially on the P.H- i think your understanding on it is not right dude-no offence intended (have you read Bigtokes BASIC water chemistry thread?). Just because of P.H swing it is not a 100% surety it is over or under feeding!
I think keeping the correct solution levels in the res is paramount i.e-Top-Up on a regular basis, doing this will help keep a stable and more balanced solution, Also, in Hydro this is a very good reason for dumping-out once a week(every 7 days) for fresh solution and gradually over time increasing the CF/EC to match the stage of growth for that paticular breed. Yes all breeds are different and require different or prefer different P.H & CF/EC values as you may know. It's a case of sussing out your keeper pheno's requirements and applying the correct values in terms of P.H CF/EC-24/7, unless you are lucky enough to be gifted that paticular information by either someone on here, which often happens to me, or gifted the info by someone that lives in your area, which is even better for obvious reasons.

Dude, if the P.H in my Res started to drop down, the first thing that would spring to my mind would be, 'What is the temp' in my res!! then i would be thinking a bad bacteria overload causing the swing down (if temps were touching 78-80 say,i would know i was right). I would not be thinking i have Overfed as i am sure if you had overfed you would get tip burn/singe, you would notice pretty quick and then you would just ease off on the feed a little and repeat untill you find a happy E.C for your babies. The longer the period for P.H swing is preferable because a slow P.H swing causes less stress to the plants-we dont want to be stressing-out our babies now do we. In Hydro to my knowledge a small daily shift (upward drift) of say .3 / .4 is fine and a good indication of a healthy system. You can read to some extent what is going on in the res by gauging water levels and P.H/E.C drift, but to only some extent there are always other variables to consider, 'Always'. If you dont own a E.C/C.F meter i would invest in one fella for obvious reasons. Take the guessing out of it. I swear by the truncheons myself, Had them years and never have feed issues.
The awnser to your Q- IMO, is this;- You and everyone for that matter has to get to know their keeper pheno, what she requires, loves even, Requirements change throughout the life cycle ,P.H & EC and other variables too. Like i said you would have to be gifted the info or suss things out for yourself, Second time round you are gonna know inside out the requirements of your pheno- Its the only way that i have ever heard of anyway dude.
Hope i have helped some dude, i love this paticular issue and have studied it for years. Out of interest what are your RES Temps dude??
Later dude & Be-Lucky................Scrogerman' :smoker::smoker::respect:



At the moment (just tested) my res temps are 74.5F, thats about as warm as it gets too, it'll be cooler tonight. If you want you can check out my grow here: http://icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=143453&page=3
I guess i did fail to factor in each plants 'phenos' or gene tendencies if you will, i do have some looking great and some looking like there saying, 'what the hell you feeding me!?' lol I'm doing some autoflower blueberries at the moment so i cant really clone and keep the best of the best but soon as i move into a new place i plan on doing just that.
I guess my point for writing/posing the question was because ive heard so many say pH rise = more nutes are being ate then water drank causing pH to go up (under feeding) pH drop = more water being drank then nutes eaten causing higher nute concentration in remaining water and in turn lower pH (over feeding),.. 'listen to your plants' bla bla blah. I WANT to listen i just don't think pH swing can really tell you all that.
I grow pretty ok weed for growing from seed every time, i just want to max it out and have it be bomb ass weed ya know. I know im in range at 375ppm and a pH of 5.8 at the moment, i just want even closer to perfection ya know. As for changing water every 7 days, i have to use bottled since tap here is 6-700ppm so that would get a bit expensive unfortunately.
 

DIYer

Active member
Hey Fella,
Just noticed you are also saying that you Cant use your Tap Water there ;- 'Why-Not' Dude?. Hard water like yours has a much higher buffering capacity for your P.H, if that is the case it should be much more stable than what you are saying - well, should be anyway. Are you using Hard water Nutes dude??
I'm thinking a Bacteria issue myself. Do you use Oxy-Plus(hydrogen Peroxide) If you give your Res a full dose of that stuff for a couple of days, it will rinse out any bacteria, the only draw back doing this is it kills all the good bacteria too. But hey, at least you will be rest assured you have no bad bacteria in your res.....Always use the stuff myself and they love it, just dont use it all the time(everyday). Hope this Helps'
Be-Lucky...................'Scrogerman!!:sasmokin:

im not really having any problems,.. a little cal/mag def on some plants, or maybe its nute burn but nothing major,.. i was just posing the question of what we can really take from ph swing,.. if anything
 

Scrogerman

Active member
Veteran
Hey DIYer,
Yeah fair enough dude, Did you read 'BigTokes Basic Water Chemistry' thread, that one is pretty interesting dude and i think Bigtoke has it all pretty much sussed-out regarding all the issues we have mentioned, and RosyCheeks(member) Adds some very important points to the issue's, Its in 'Growers forum-Indoor Grows-Hydro'(Closed thread) Loads of info in there. "Wow" I think your megatronthingy is pretty cool-'Mad-As-Fuk dude-lol. I'm gonna have a look through see what i can see, maybe give you an opinion, if that would be helpfull to you of course?!!
MMmmmm you have an interesting deficiency going on there dude/or is it??we'll have a look buddy. And i would still WHACK a dose of Oxy-Plus through your system, just to make sure on the nasties dude. Something i do as insurance, and they love the stuff anyway to be honest.
Peace-Out ..............Scrogerman'
 

hilbie

Member
diyer the science is ph and a decent water source, dont make coco harder then it has to be, its one of the quickest to respond mediums to what u just did to it, just read the plant, but if your just learing then maybe a meter comforts u and checking the run off, looking at the plant comforts me-
 

DIYer

Active member
Looking at the plant after its too late and comparing problem spots to pictures in the sick plant sticky is something anyone can do, but only to a point does that help us, there's more out there to "point" us in a more perfect direction, grow even better weed, and im just trying to talk about it here not get into an argument or anything (and i didn't start this thread to talk about coco at all)
The science and green thumb both have there place, but there should be a way with our technology and expensive meters (however imperfect they are) to read exactly without a doubt because the math supports it that our plants want more or less food, and we should be able to come to this conclusion without burning the tips to know.
So onward and upward..

Ironically i just had a thought on this exact topic a few hours ago and i wanted to share it with those who care to talk about well, this topic. So here's my very high thought :joint:

If you have an auto refiller hooked to your res, and the pH and ppm of the water you're topping off with (or that you pour in by hand if no res refiller) if it isn't EXACTLY the same as what's in your res is at the moment you pour it in, aren't you always going to be tainting the results? I think reading into any directional movement in your reservoirs readings (pH or ppm or EC) is impossible for the above reason and also since plants drink water alone from a res (which makes for a higher concentration of nutes and in turn lower pH and higher ppm/EC) and then there also evaporation,.. since everything mentioned above will move ppm or EC readings and keep you from knowing what your plants are strictly eating, then i question if you can learn anything from the movements of your reservoirs readings.,........ UNLESS,....... what if the water you top off with IS the exact same ppm and pH as your res? What if when you mix your res you make say 5 gallons more and top off with that. Here's where i think you would NEED a float refiller to learn anything from the movement of daily readings since they top off every few seconds. Couldn't you then read the movement of ppm and or EC to mean your plants want more or less food? If we could let the plants eating alone (not plants drinking or evaporation) move the pH in our res, wouldn't that be ideal? ...and would that be even possible? :joint:
 

abuldur

Member
hi there,
i have a refiller and no ph swings because i add good bacteria to my tank using ghe bio magic(subculture) with a bio filter http://www.eurohydro.com/home.php
This will keep your ph steady and allow your roots to use more nutrients.
It will also allow you to keep your res going much longer before having to change it.
I only change it once when switching to flowering and i grow a 90 days flowering strain.The ph stays at 6.2 during the entire grow.

peace
 

DIYer

Active member
ph stays at 6.2 during the entire grow

that cant be good,.. everything ive ever read confirms pH must fluctuate for plants to consume all nutrients. Just look at the sick plant guide, it flat out says it with all the different pH levels nutes are absorbed at. It's also not even possible for pH not to move, because (sorry buddin_904 but you're wrong too) its common knowledge that plants don't drink water and nutes equally and this causes pH swing from a higher or lower concentration of nutes in the water. I don't mean to be a dick but honestly ive done enough growing and reading to know these facts to be true. Can we please stick to the topic at hand, the idea i proposed.


~peace~

 

Scrogerman

Active member
Veteran
that cant be good,.. everything ive ever read confirms pH must fluctuate for plants to consume all nutrients. Just look at the sick plant guide, it flat out says it with all the different pH levels nutes are absorbed at. It's also not even possible for pH not to move, because (sorry buddin_904 but you're wrong too) its common knowledge that plants don't drink water and nutes equally and this causes pH swing from a higher or lower concentration of nutes in the water. I don't mean to be a dick but honestly ive done enough growing and reading to know these facts to be true. Can we please stick to the topic at hand, the idea i proposed.


~peace~

DIYer is correct, i think you may need to re-think that one dude, unless there is something you are not telling us, what that would be,- i dont know.
Good luck fella.......................................Scrogerman'
 

DIYer

Active member
still looking for an answer to this,..

If you have an auto refiller hooked to your res, and the pH and ppm of the water you're topping off with (or that you pour in by hand if no res refiller) if it isn't EXACTLY the same as what's in your res is at the moment you pour it in, aren't you always going to be tainting the results? I think reading into any directional movement in your reservoirs readings (pH or ppm or EC) is impossible for the above reason and also since plants drink water alone from a res (which makes for a higher concentration of nutes and in turn lower pH and higher ppm/EC) and then there also evaporation,.. since everything mentioned above will move ppm or EC readings and keep you from knowing what your plants are strictly eating, then i question if you can learn anything from the movements of your reservoirs readings.,........ UNLESS,....... what if the water you top off with IS the exact same ppm and pH as your res? What if when you mix your res you make say 5 gallons more and top off with that. Here's where i think you would NEED a float refiller to learn anything from the movement of daily readings since they top off every few seconds. Couldn't you then read the movement of ppm and or EC to mean your plants want more or less food? If we could let the plants eating alone (not plants drinking or evaporation) move the pH in our res, wouldn't that be ideal? ...and would that be even possible?
 

Jalisco Kid

Active member
You need to read at other places besides pot growing sites. University research will help you. That or I must have been doing things wrong for a long time.
My ppm and ph will barely move when I am dialed in. I use a passive rez that I put at 2/3 strength.Without the passive my ppm will stay steady as my water levels drops telling me I have the right amount. It is then when I add back my ro I see the ppm drop which tells me my girls ate or not. Usually when they are rocking they will eat about 1/5th or more.If your rh is out of wack that will cause your girls to drink more water which will cause your ppm to rise. I keep my rh at 65-70%. Rarely do I go over 1100 ppm. That pH chart was for optimal conditions and now everyone thinks it's a biblical law. Lets say P is absorbed best at 6.0 pH. What percentage of absorption will you lose if your ppm fell to 5.7 which is a big dif numerically? Not worth chasing the dragon. Suerte JK
 

DIYer

Active member
You need to read at other places besides pot growing sites. University research will help you. That or I must have been doing things wrong for a long time.
couldn't hurt,.. if you got any links feel free to share them.

My ppm and ph will barely move when I am dialed in. I use a passive rez that I put at 2/3 strength. Without the passive my ppm will stay steady as my water levels drops telling me I have the right amount.
Ok that makes sense to me,... water level drops but ppm stay the same = plants drank as much as they ate. If they wanted more to eat ppms would have dropped and pH gone up as water went down. Vise versa if they had too much to eat floating around. This doesn't take into account evaporation but with 70rh im guessing you don't have much anyway. I don't know if this is a perfect way to do it but it sounds plausible, or at least a good place to start from. Do you lower rh for flowering? I've read that the lower the rh the more tricone production.

That pH chart was for optimal conditions and now everyone thinks it's a biblical law
Not sure the chart you're referring to but im no one to believe in charts or biblical law ;-)
 

osirica420

Active member
ph swing has alot to do the with the roots and microbes..even in chemical hydro grows the roots secrete sugar into the water..

if your are using pure chemical nutes then this can be the only cause of your swing if its not food or water being eaten..

if you are using pure organic or a mix of the two expect alot of fluctuation to the point you leave it alone between these ranges 4.8 - 7.2

i grow in a DWC with organic compost teas and do not messed with the ph unless it falls out those ranges..
I can go 4 weeks without messing with the PH as long as i keep bacteria numbers up!..
a tiny bit a of molasses goes a long way..


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