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I need a good simple soil mix

apples

Active member
I was reading a mirco grow and the guy amends his soil with some organic nutes like bone meal, lime, etc. Then he only uses plain water through the whole grow. 12/12 clone SOG.

This sound good to me but he doesnt really go into details about his ratios. So if anyone has a good proven mix that they want to share, please do.

Please state brand, product and quantity.

Thanks!
 

Phillthy

Seven-Thirty
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i use the following...

1 - 2cf bag of Fox Farm Ocean Forest
1/2 - 3.8cf bail of Promix BX
3/4 to 1 1/2 cup of Miracle Grow Organic Blood Meal
3/4 to 1 1/2 cup of Miracle Grow Organic Bone Meal
3/4 cup Dolomite lime
10% of that total mixture in added Perlite

I am always tweeking the formula per strain but if you stick to the low side of all of that you should take an 8 week strain through flower with no issues.
 

apples

Active member
Thanks brother bear, I read that, not exactally what I'm looking for.

i use the following...

1 - 2cf bag of Fox Farm Ocean Forest
1/2 - 3.8cf bail of Promix BX
3/4 to 1 1/2 cup of Miracle Grow Organic Blood Meal
3/4 to 1 1/2 cup of Miracle Grow Organic Bone Meal
3/4 cup Dolomite lime
10% of that total mixture in added Perlite

I am always tweeking the formula per strain but if you stick to the low side of all of that you should take an 8 week strain through flower with no issues.

Phil nailed it though, thanks alot! +k.

If anyone has more like this please share.
 
20% worm castings, 30%organic potting soil(cheap stuff works fine) 20% composted cow manure, 30% perlite....use compost tea every watering
 
S

ShamelessJames

Apples: I'm currently trying to do the same thing, I want a mix that will last the whole plant's cycle something I can simply water and let grow. Although I would also like the possibility of feeding nutes through watering too.

I've been reading a lot of organic threads and so far have a nice list of ingredients and little knowledge of what some ingredients are for. I know we want Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). These in order are the 3 numbers that appear on fertilizers. I also found out that cannabis prefers a medium that is high in nitrogen, and mid-range in phosphorus and potassium. How do you get that? I'm unsure of.

So far my list consists of: Kelp Meal, Blood Meal, Bone Meal, Fish Bone Meal, Bio-Tone, Bat Quano, Alfalfa Meal, Gypsum, Plant-Tone, Powdered Dolomite Lime, Molasses (for soil? or just teas?), Earthworm Castings, Green Sand, Soft Rock Phosphate, High Phosphate Quano (maybe same as bat?), Peruvian Seabird Quano (again same?)

I also have Perlite, Vermiculite, & Coco Coir on my list as I wanted to make my soil airy and light and thought these would help whether I used 1, 2, or all 3.

Now I'm sure you can pull from that list and make a very good soil, it's just a matter of knowing how. That is something I'm trying to learn. I want to know the science of what I am putting together and how to do it properly. If anyone could help in this department would be much appreciated. Give a man a soil recipe and he will grow some plants, teach a man how to make a soil recipe and he will forever be able to grow plants where ever he is at.

I found this table and it explains some things....more searching to do.

Table 14 - Prepared Organic Fertilisers

Type of Percentage by weight of Availability to
fertiliser N P2O5 K20 Plant
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Blood meal 13 0 0 Rapid/medium
Bone meal 0.5 15 0 Medium/slow
Blood/bone meal 6 7 0 Medium/slow
Cottonseed meal 6 2 1 Slow/medium
Fish meal 8 2 0 Slow/medium
Hoof and bone meal 10 2 0 Slow
Rock phosphate 6 24 0 Slow
Wood ash 0 1.5 3-7 Rapid
Greensand 0 0 2-8 Medium/slow
Chemical fertilisers are made in about every conceivable combination and concentration. Pick one that is complete and where the first number (N) is at least equal if not higher than both P and K. For example, rose foods may be 12-12-12 or 20-20-20, and work very well for marijuana. Others are: Vigoro 18-4-5 and Ortho 12-6-6. The higher the number, the more concentrated the mix is, and consequently, the more nutrients are available.
Don't use fertilisers which come in pellets or capsules, or that are labelled "timed" or "slow release." They do not work as well indoors as do standard organic and chemical fertilisers. Chemical fertilisers seldom list the amount to mix per pot. You can get some idea by the instructions for application per square foot. Use that amount of each one-half cubic foot of soil mixture.
 
Soil Mix #1
Ingredients:
• 1 Bale ProMix BX w/ Mycorrhizae
• 20-50 lbs. Worm castings
• 16 Quarts Perlite
• 4 Cups Dolimitic Lime
• 4 Cups Greensand
• 4 Cups Kelp Meal
• 4 Cups Bat Guano (High N for Veg, High P for Flower)
• 2 Cups Gypsum
• 2 Cups Rare Earth
• Beneficial Microorganism(water in with a gallon of water each time soil is turned)
Innoculaid and beneficial bacteria mix

Mix all ingredients in a large tarp until all ingredients are evenly distributed throughout the soil. Pour or Spray a gallon of beneficial microorganisms/seaweed extract/or compost tea on the soil mix and turn several times. After a week, turn and pour another gallon of water on the mix. Mix 2-3 weeks prior to soil use.
 

Brother Bear

Simple kynd of man
ICMag Donor
Veteran
does a bail of promix "fluff" out like peat does ?
if so, then your math is off my friend :friends:
3.8 peat bails fluff out to about 9 cubic feet :yes:
 

sero!

Member
take a look at my grow my friend, that´s what i´ve done. Maybe it needs some fine tuning, but it works, as you have see. take a look, in the first page is the recipe and any queestion is welcome!



peace :joint:
 
Soil Mix #1
Ingredients:
• 1 Bale ProMix BX w/ Mycorrhizae
• 20-50 lbs. Worm castings
• 16 Quarts Perlite
• 4 Cups Dolimitic Lime
• 4 Cups Greensand
• 4 Cups Kelp Meal
• 4 Cups Bat Guano (High N for Veg, High P for Flower)
• 2 Cups Gypsum
• 2 Cups Rare Earth
• Beneficial Microorganism(water in with a gallon of water each time soil is turned)
Innoculaid and beneficial bacteria mix

Mix all ingredients in a large tarp until all ingredients are evenly distributed throughout the soil. Pour or Spray a gallon of beneficial microorganisms/seaweed extract/or compost tea on the soil mix and turn several times. After a week, turn and pour another gallon of water on the mix. Mix 2-3 weeks prior to soil use.



i like this mix... has anyone use Tarantula powder not sure the name but i heard its great for flavar in indoor plants..??
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
Did you read my post by any chance on the micro forum?

I use LC's mix, or something very close.

How big are your containers? Soil volume is a limiting factor. I found 8"pots to be too little for a 1sq ft. scrog. I've tripled that now by using rubbermaid trashcans cut to size.

anyway, check out the organics for beginners sticky.

i failed to mention I occasionally add more than water, like when I take some compost and stir in water then apply. i do this especially after a dry spell to get things rolling.

Also I occasionally add fish hydrolysate. All in all not much to do. Actually it's a bit irritating when i am looking to keep busy and don't feel like going outside.
 

Weird Jimmy

Licensed Patient/Caregiver & All-Around Cool Ass B
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i like this mix... has anyone use Tarantula powder not sure the name but i heard its great for flavar in indoor plants..??

I haven't used the Tarantula but I use Myco Madness. My nutrient guy told me it's more complete than Tarantula. Also the Great White powder is supposed to be an awesome product.

I don't think you could go wrong with any of them though.
 

ganja din

Member
Hey WJ,

Hey. I wouldn't listen to your "nutrient guy", neither of those are good AM fungi products. First off, those are two different sets of organisms. Tarantula is all bacteria, not AM fungi (note AN misspelled of "actinomycetes", it should be "actinobacteria"). PLEASE NOTE: AN Tarantula is basically a copy of EM (Effective Microorganisms), without LAB and yeast, and most EM has no actinobacteria. I would HIGHLY suggest you purchase SCD-World "EM Plus", and ferment (aka "extend") the EM into AEM (Activated Effective Microorganisms).

Out of the two you should get much more benefits from Tarantula, I suggest it over Myco Madness all day long. Although, (quality) ACT (Aerated Compost Tea) and AEM applications are FAR superior to any freeze dried "off the self" product I have ever seen or heard about.

Now back to AM fungi: "Myco Maddness" contains Trichoderma spp. which can/will 'eat' the AM fungi spores/mycelium before the AM fungi can become mycorrhizal. I suggest against using AM fungi with cannabis, unless low P is used, or possibly higher quantities of (for example) "collodial phosphate" because most P is sequestered. I would not pin any hopes on AM fungi, unless you apply very little P or the P is sequestered like collodial phosphate. You see, even lowish levels (~20 ppm) of bio-available P will hinder AM fingi, and higher levels (~32 ppm) will stop AM fungi in its tracks.

If your going to use AM fungi try to find it without Trichoderma spp., a good brand is "Chappy's Power Organics; Root Booster". Its pretty stupid that nearly all the commercial AM fungi products have Trichoderma spp., the producers are clueless, or posers...in my opinion.

Check out the thread " mycorrhizae with organics" for greater detail...

HTH
 

ganja din

Member
Hey Bretonston,

Please see my above post to WJ, its also for you. And no, AN Tarantula will not increase the flavor of cannabis, at least not directly. The same goes for any product which claims to increase cannabis flavor, including molasses, none will directly affect the flavor of cannabis...its all lies and hype to separate you from your money.

HTH
 

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