I use both FNB veg and bloom. I started out with only the bloom, but let me tell you the veg formula rocks, my plants love it, they grow fast!
Ebb & Flo, Ebb & gro, Lucas formula with Floranova
- Thread starter gmanwho
- Start date
Wait.... are you topping off your res with water before taking your measurements? That's very important. I top off twice a day when I can as it keeps things on a slow gentle change.
Yes, increased ppm means they're either drinking more water than eating nutes or you have water evaporating into the air. (usually a bit of both)
D
dongle69
It is good to take measurements before you top off.
That way you can see if you are feeding too strong or not.
Top off, check again, then add the nutrients.
That way you can see if you are feeding too strong or not.
Top off, check again, then add the nutrients.
day 8
day 8
Hs & D69, i have a trimeter running 24/7 in the rez. i always view my pre top off measurements. sofar, its takes 2 days of 40 gal to go from 5.4 to 6.1. No rez airstone. thou im thinking i should when adding the floralicious bloom. slight stench to the water, but not that that bad, but noticable.
Been adding straight h2o, then ph'ing every 2 days. no 1/3 strength yet. I dont think they are eating enough just yet to have to add be adding the 1/3 strength back. Yet.
I increased the set temp of the room to 80f, from 78. the max temp now hits 82-83.
day 7 got a rez change.
Day 8 and all along everything is filling in the tomato cages nicely. Sites have been starting to develop nicely.
My early pearl have alot of tops. alot. if things continue on this path, there will be a nice harvest.
at Day 14 i will get some pics. By day 14 i will have setup the co2 to continually fill the room at 1500ppm.
My co2 is abit different, i run a co2 monitor that controls a 24v duct fan. that duct tee's into my nat gas furnace and water heater exhaust. With the the pilot light from the furnace and water heater alone, my 5'w x20'L x 7'h flower room is filled to 850-1100 ppm always. when the controller shuts down the fan at 1550ppm, the furnace and water heater exhaust will continue up the chimeny
Right now, the 2 add on buckets that i added to the standard ebb&gro buckets are the same size.
those 2 add on plants where smaller then the other 12 to begin with . So they are growing faster then the standard ebb& gro at this point.
the 2 add on buckets have the fill/drain holes 2inches from the bottom. so there is always 2" of nutes at the bottom when in drain mode. Each 2 gal bucket has a 4" air stone run by a large air pump. So those 2 at the end that so far seem to have faster growth, are an ebb/flo dwc hybrid. Running a test to see if my next ebb & flo table will have the same 2" holes and stones running. got another 20 days to decide.
While in the back of my mind im always weary of root rot,cause i have lost full crops before in dwc. But, i think, that having just 2" of water at the bottom, the o2 levels in the water will be at max and hopefully discourage rot. water temps should not be an issue im thinking. Guess we'll see.
B-safe and thanks for checking in..
day 8
Hs & D69, i have a trimeter running 24/7 in the rez. i always view my pre top off measurements. sofar, its takes 2 days of 40 gal to go from 5.4 to 6.1. No rez airstone. thou im thinking i should when adding the floralicious bloom. slight stench to the water, but not that that bad, but noticable.
Been adding straight h2o, then ph'ing every 2 days. no 1/3 strength yet. I dont think they are eating enough just yet to have to add be adding the 1/3 strength back. Yet.
I increased the set temp of the room to 80f, from 78. the max temp now hits 82-83.
day 7 got a rez change.
Day 8 and all along everything is filling in the tomato cages nicely. Sites have been starting to develop nicely.
My early pearl have alot of tops. alot. if things continue on this path, there will be a nice harvest.
at Day 14 i will get some pics. By day 14 i will have setup the co2 to continually fill the room at 1500ppm.
My co2 is abit different, i run a co2 monitor that controls a 24v duct fan. that duct tee's into my nat gas furnace and water heater exhaust. With the the pilot light from the furnace and water heater alone, my 5'w x20'L x 7'h flower room is filled to 850-1100 ppm always. when the controller shuts down the fan at 1550ppm, the furnace and water heater exhaust will continue up the chimeny
Right now, the 2 add on buckets that i added to the standard ebb&gro buckets are the same size.
those 2 add on plants where smaller then the other 12 to begin with . So they are growing faster then the standard ebb& gro at this point.
the 2 add on buckets have the fill/drain holes 2inches from the bottom. so there is always 2" of nutes at the bottom when in drain mode. Each 2 gal bucket has a 4" air stone run by a large air pump. So those 2 at the end that so far seem to have faster growth, are an ebb/flo dwc hybrid. Running a test to see if my next ebb & flo table will have the same 2" holes and stones running. got another 20 days to decide.
While in the back of my mind im always weary of root rot,cause i have lost full crops before in dwc. But, i think, that having just 2" of water at the bottom, the o2 levels in the water will be at max and hopefully discourage rot. water temps should not be an issue im thinking. Guess we'll see.
B-safe and thanks for checking in..
Hey PK, i read that alot of people where just using the bloom in veg as well. But its good to know that you have seen a noticeable difference and have changed becuase u feel its better. will have to remember about the fnb veg.
Im thinking my 2nd ebb& flo setup i will be running the 8 fnb a gal and compare. like i first wanted to. but, i seen the 6/9 with the pk additives and i wannted to run with it. so far im happy i did.
Hows the fnb in the rez? it looks to me that the fnb could create a pretty nasty rez easily. i would imagine airstones in the rez is must, yes no?
B-safe
I agree the FloraNova series works really great with a little floralicious+ & lil CalMag in the veg regime and the cool-bloom kicks ass at the end ...usually PH is brought right down to acceptable levels with only the slight addition of some "down" to round it off . And the good thing is the ph of rez using FN remains stable from then on almost all the way thru ....
* Its when running molassass at the end during the flush that the PH goes bonkers to the high side which i've guessed to be the bacterial wastes that the sugars promote when added . Its nitrogen thats locked out (i believe) at higher PH levels so not that great a problem towards end of cycle anyways , phos still being absorbed ...
Y
YosemiteSam
Be careful with FNB at 8 ml/gal. It is better to start off with 6 ml/gal which should put you around an EC of 1.8. Then you can watch your plants and the EC/pH of your res before you top off with water and adjust accordingly.
The 8 ml/gal can cause tip burn, leaf down turn on certain strains. In my opinion it is better to start on the slightly underfed side and adjust up as this will cause less stress on your plants than starting with an overfeed and then trying to remedy that issue.
FNB should be all you need for most strains. However, if you have a nute hog strain and you find yourself needing above an EC of 2.0 you have the option, at that point, of adding a PK boost. The FNB will be providing plenty of N at that point in flower no matter how big a pig your plants are...so if they can take it, no harm done in feeding them more PK with the possible benefit being bigger yield.
Hope that makes sense and helps.
Edit...the Rez Dog formula is specifically for coco in a dtw application, it will, imho, not provide enough P and K for other mediums. You will be much happier with Lucas unless you are using dtw coco. That formula is based on the cation exchange capacity of coco and the perceived tendency of the coco medium to exchange K cations with Ca and Mg cations allowing one to run lower levels of K. In my opinion (and possible only my opinion) this depends on how the coco manufacturer treats their coco...any good one will "clean" the coco to rid it of Na (and again, imo, this will also rid the coco of K). At that point good coco manufacturers will add something to satisfy cocos cation exchange capacity and exactly what they add back will influence what formula is best...to the point the cation exchange capacity has been satisfied. It would seem to make the most sense to use Ca and Mg to fill that CEC although some manufacturers seem to use K to due so...if they use Ca/Mg then it would seem the Mel Frank ratios would be appropriate from the get go, if not then perhaps the H3ad/Rez Dog ratios would be the way to go...although those are still for dtw, if you are recirculating using those ratios at higher concentrations would be appropriate. Even then, once the CEC has been satisfied the Mel Frank ratio should once again, become the way to go...perhaps this is why Rez Dog has success adding some PK boost as he goes.
Then again, I could be wrong.
The 8 ml/gal can cause tip burn, leaf down turn on certain strains. In my opinion it is better to start on the slightly underfed side and adjust up as this will cause less stress on your plants than starting with an overfeed and then trying to remedy that issue.
FNB should be all you need for most strains. However, if you have a nute hog strain and you find yourself needing above an EC of 2.0 you have the option, at that point, of adding a PK boost. The FNB will be providing plenty of N at that point in flower no matter how big a pig your plants are...so if they can take it, no harm done in feeding them more PK with the possible benefit being bigger yield.
Hope that makes sense and helps.
Edit...the Rez Dog formula is specifically for coco in a dtw application, it will, imho, not provide enough P and K for other mediums. You will be much happier with Lucas unless you are using dtw coco. That formula is based on the cation exchange capacity of coco and the perceived tendency of the coco medium to exchange K cations with Ca and Mg cations allowing one to run lower levels of K. In my opinion (and possible only my opinion) this depends on how the coco manufacturer treats their coco...any good one will "clean" the coco to rid it of Na (and again, imo, this will also rid the coco of K). At that point good coco manufacturers will add something to satisfy cocos cation exchange capacity and exactly what they add back will influence what formula is best...to the point the cation exchange capacity has been satisfied. It would seem to make the most sense to use Ca and Mg to fill that CEC although some manufacturers seem to use K to due so...if they use Ca/Mg then it would seem the Mel Frank ratios would be appropriate from the get go, if not then perhaps the H3ad/Rez Dog ratios would be the way to go...although those are still for dtw, if you are recirculating using those ratios at higher concentrations would be appropriate. Even then, once the CEC has been satisfied the Mel Frank ratio should once again, become the way to go...perhaps this is why Rez Dog has success adding some PK boost as he goes.
Then again, I could be wrong.
when in doubt i watch the plant, then the meter. but the meter sets your starting point. atleast getting a basic idea of what is being feed. so 6 or even 5mil per gal at the start when using fnb would be a good idea. start light and ramp up after, with u on that.
but with coco, no matter how much you or the mfg's treat coco before hand, it will continue to breakdown through out it's life.Coco seems to always change. Always needing periodic flushing, period. excess k, excess na, excess whatever cause lockouts. Ca mg treatments to the coco before may have ,or seemed to help. Maybe... coco can be rough sometimes. Its some of the unknowns that make coco rough.
6/9 is a light to a more medium feed, mostly. adjusting the feed an adding the pk at certain intervals throughout the cycle will help when the 6/9 is too weak.
Or even running 6-8mil of fnb a gal throughout. its a SIMPLE nute plan, but not optimal for all stages of growth, strain dependent. the 6/9 or even the 8 mil gal will be to strong at times, or to weak at times. just a base. Pk boosts at the right times are important.
Plants are healthy an happy.
i mean, i can feed a rooted clone 6/9 without burn. With that said, it is to weak for a flowering plant at 20 days, the 6/9 will lack the p. pk at the right times is the key.
i wish i could change the topic of this thread since i went with 6/9 instead.
but with coco, no matter how much you or the mfg's treat coco before hand, it will continue to breakdown through out it's life.Coco seems to always change. Always needing periodic flushing, period. excess k, excess na, excess whatever cause lockouts. Ca mg treatments to the coco before may have ,or seemed to help. Maybe... coco can be rough sometimes. Its some of the unknowns that make coco rough.
6/9 is a light to a more medium feed, mostly. adjusting the feed an adding the pk at certain intervals throughout the cycle will help when the 6/9 is too weak.
Or even running 6-8mil of fnb a gal throughout. its a SIMPLE nute plan, but not optimal for all stages of growth, strain dependent. the 6/9 or even the 8 mil gal will be to strong at times, or to weak at times. just a base. Pk boosts at the right times are important.
Plants are healthy an happy.
i mean, i can feed a rooted clone 6/9 without burn. With that said, it is to weak for a flowering plant at 20 days, the 6/9 will lack the p. pk at the right times is the key.
i wish i could change the topic of this thread since i went with 6/9 instead.
tito libowitz
New member
helpful stuff thanks!!! ...i'm starting up a ebb and flow tray with floranova this week
CuZZn BooBerry
Member
Enjoying your thread but have to disagree with your take on coco. I think it's just the opposite (imo). I've found coco to be extremely consistent and have never treated my coco(Atami bcuzz). I find that ppl tend to over think coco and treat it like soil in alot of instances and this is where the trouble begins(imo).
Good luck with your grow
Good luck with your grow
Enjoying your thread but have to disagree with your take on coco. I think it's just the opposite (imo). I've found coco to be extremely consistent and have never treated my coco(Atami bcuzz). I find that ppl tend to over think coco and treat it like soil in alot of instances and this is where the trouble begins(imo).
Good luck with your grow
Hey there. ive ran coco for the past 2.5 years and have had some super dank come from them. But then in veg i always have P def. hurtting my cloneing success.
Great plants then the next clone next to is a complete disaster.
Botanicare coco, cocotek coco and canna cogr coco as well.
Watering when container is at 50% weight, watering drier. Small container on drip line had fantastic results in flower. Thou i can say it makes a big deal the size plant to size container. I always seemed to had better results with running smaller containers and watering more frequently. In most case. Plant to container ratio's are important. never want to big of a container to a small plant that can never dry out the medium fast enough.
i tried running pbp, cns 17, canna cogr and gh. New coco, recylced coco, always p defs, major purpling stems. runn from 5.5 - 6.4 ph's, cal mag at like 3-5 mill a gal or no cal-mag. 300-1000ppm in veg, 900-1400 in flower, all in between.
fungus knats continually, occasional thrips, fungus growing from the coco, running perpetual, coco all over the place and on the ground. im just sick of coco. Thou i know i recycled my coco for to long. but even my brand new flushed coco i still have issues.
to each is own. good luck with your coco as well.
thou i feel coco is still better then soil. My trays are so easy so far. i have a life again, almost. Consistant healthy plants.
B-safe
day 14
day 14
i am no expert by any means. so whatever i do is for my situation, or what i believe maybe be my best option at the time. Just kinda babbleing and trying to keep a journal of the more detailed parts of my grow i guess. Whether right or wrong, i hope i can look back and see where made a mistake or made the right decision. Or maybe u can compare as well. Basically using this thread as a tool. Sometimes my memory is filled with to many details sometimes and they all may seem to blend from previous grows. So I think right here is a good place to jot things down.
So onward we go.....
I just topped of 5 gal of h20 to the rez. They drank about 10 gal in 7 days. rez filled to 40gals at beginning. Im Not gonna change the rez for a few more days, maybe bring it to 10-12 days fro this rez. I would like the Next rez change to fall just as i start to believe i should be adding the pk. They are not ready for the pk yet i feel. i like to get the sites the size of a dime or so before adding the pk. at that point,i know they are in almost in full bloom mode. At this point,it would seem like day 20 or so they will be ready for the pk.
Ph seems to be less erratic, staying 5.7 -5.8 the past 3 days pretty consistent. Maybe the hydroton is finally conditioned, it was new hydroton, cant say fully if that is it or not. First time running hydro with hydroton for me. The ph seems it was always raising before.
They are real healthy, been trimming lower branches on and off pretty good. But some i cant reach as they are to far in the middle of the room. But it's time to pull them out one by one and sit down with each plant and trim lowers. Trimming lowers is a big deal in my eyes to help the final products. I'd rather have all the energy goto the main colas and skip out on the popcorn. Things seem to get abit frostier i believe.
Great color, loving the gh so far. thou i will say at the 7 day rez change they seemed to slow a little bit just after the rez change. I went a little lower with the floralicious bloom this time. was it it?? i dont know. but I Didnt like the stench the previous batch had made from the floralicious. So i used less.
So basically it was 6/9 micro bloom per gal, 2 mill cannazyme per gal, just under 2 mill per gal of floralicious (1.875mil to be exact).
4 or 5 days ago i started foliar spraying bio boost flower enhancer from canna. mixxed it at 40mil to my 1.5 gal sprayer. i get 2 sprays from that. every other day i sprayed. today was my third spray. gonna wait a couple more and see how the pistols are forming.
Heres some photos.
this is the ep side of the lower growth and buckets. blue tape just reminding me that there ep's.
[/U]
Ep tops
Sour diesels
^^^^ this purple in the stem is where i pinched the top to slow it down.
Shot of the canopy from the ep side. U can see my hurt ass ep's in coco on top tier of my stadium type setup. i took cuts and flower them right away. if they snap out of it theyll stay. if they dont, to the compost pile. they should snap out thou.
Thats it for now folks.. B-safe
day 14
i am no expert by any means. so whatever i do is for my situation, or what i believe maybe be my best option at the time. Just kinda babbleing and trying to keep a journal of the more detailed parts of my grow i guess. Whether right or wrong, i hope i can look back and see where made a mistake or made the right decision. Or maybe u can compare as well. Basically using this thread as a tool. Sometimes my memory is filled with to many details sometimes and they all may seem to blend from previous grows. So I think right here is a good place to jot things down.
So onward we go.....
I just topped of 5 gal of h20 to the rez. They drank about 10 gal in 7 days. rez filled to 40gals at beginning. Im Not gonna change the rez for a few more days, maybe bring it to 10-12 days fro this rez. I would like the Next rez change to fall just as i start to believe i should be adding the pk. They are not ready for the pk yet i feel. i like to get the sites the size of a dime or so before adding the pk. at that point,i know they are in almost in full bloom mode. At this point,it would seem like day 20 or so they will be ready for the pk.
Ph seems to be less erratic, staying 5.7 -5.8 the past 3 days pretty consistent. Maybe the hydroton is finally conditioned, it was new hydroton, cant say fully if that is it or not. First time running hydro with hydroton for me. The ph seems it was always raising before.
They are real healthy, been trimming lower branches on and off pretty good. But some i cant reach as they are to far in the middle of the room. But it's time to pull them out one by one and sit down with each plant and trim lowers. Trimming lowers is a big deal in my eyes to help the final products. I'd rather have all the energy goto the main colas and skip out on the popcorn. Things seem to get abit frostier i believe.
Great color, loving the gh so far. thou i will say at the 7 day rez change they seemed to slow a little bit just after the rez change. I went a little lower with the floralicious bloom this time. was it it?? i dont know. but I Didnt like the stench the previous batch had made from the floralicious. So i used less.
So basically it was 6/9 micro bloom per gal, 2 mill cannazyme per gal, just under 2 mill per gal of floralicious (1.875mil to be exact).
4 or 5 days ago i started foliar spraying bio boost flower enhancer from canna. mixxed it at 40mil to my 1.5 gal sprayer. i get 2 sprays from that. every other day i sprayed. today was my third spray. gonna wait a couple more and see how the pistols are forming.
Heres some photos.
this is the ep side of the lower growth and buckets. blue tape just reminding me that there ep's.
Ep tops
Sour diesels
^^^^ this purple in the stem is where i pinched the top to slow it down.
Shot of the canopy from the ep side. U can see my hurt ass ep's in coco on top tier of my stadium type setup. i took cuts and flower them right away. if they snap out of it theyll stay. if they dont, to the compost pile. they should snap out thou.
Thats it for now folks..
B-safe
Last edited by a moderator:
Y
YosemiteSam
They look really healthy. Good job.
Thanks Yosemitesam. By far one of the easiest grows ive had yet. and very healthy. so far.
its a little too tight in there thou. i may eventually rid the stadium benches next round. and add a few 100watt cfls for some supplemental lighting. And fresh bulbs, these horti's are just over a year old.
Thanks for dropping in.... B-safe
What in the world is this pop up man? Sorry but it needs to go away. The ONLY passwords you enter is for the log in of this site not your vip box ok?
Folks have used proxy servers on here for years and I have never seen anything like that it's not right.
Mr.Wags
Well mr wags....it just so happenns that if i knew it was to become an issue i wouldnt have used this proxy, or even posted for that matter. It just so happens it took a little while to figure out what the f was going on.
It became an issue when i posted pictures. somehow it was linking my username and whatever within the path of the picture. within the code or "link" to the pictue. so whenever the picture was viewed it linked to the proxy site.
the pictures should have been purged of all unnecessary code by now.
If anyone else has issues PM me.
Almost finished with the run. pictures without unnecessary code to follow. Very very fosty.
B-safe
