here are my babies on week 4 flowering after mag deficiency was corrected pic taken last nite ... i know,, i know it was a mobile pic soz
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
What am I doing wrong? Thought I`d got rid of this problem, but its coming back
- Thread starter Tokesome
- Start date
the white rhino crosses at the back are huge yielders compared to the northern lights and a lot quicker to the finish .......
nice looking grow mate, they look amazing on only week 4, mine look more than a week behind them, but they`re 9 week flowerers. Yea the pic would be better with flash on and the sodium off.
When in the grow did you get the mag deficiency? Have you kept a mag dose going since and what did/do you treat with?
When in the grow did you get the mag deficiency? Have you kept a mag dose going since and what did/do you treat with?
hi tokesome i got the mag deficiency in week 3 so i asked the guys here what to do and i went and bought canna mono mag , ive only gave them one weeks worth the now but they look good if i see the mag def coming back i will give them more ,as for your pics go to your gallery click on the pic you want to put up copy the url below it then go to the post your making accept the scripted window then go to add pic and paste the url in the box ,thats the best description i can give tokesome if someone can elaborate on it then be my guest peeps, 
E
EvilTwin
T,
I use a different method then rocket high. I use advanced mode for writing the post. Then under "manage attachments" I select the photo off my portable hard dive using browse mode.
ET
I use a different method then rocket high. I use advanced mode for writing the post. Then under "manage attachments" I select the photo off my portable hard dive using browse mode.
ET
Ah cool guys, I`ll experiment with that when I post pics of my (hopefully) improving grow.
My nutes might be a bit high, EC has risen by 1, PH has gone up to 6.1-6.2. The Ph not a concern if it stays around there, but dont wanna over fert and stress em further. I`ll see what they read out at tmro, and if necessary I`ll top up with water only and bring it down again.
My nutes might be a bit high, EC has risen by 1, PH has gone up to 6.1-6.2. The Ph not a concern if it stays around there, but dont wanna over fert and stress em further. I`ll see what they read out at tmro, and if necessary I`ll top up with water only and bring it down again.
i heavy feed my girls at this point in the grow and for the next four weeks till flush .these strains like that so they go hand and hand but the nl's like a week and a half longer so its a 2 stage harvest
Yeah I used to grow White Rhino, one of my favourites of the past, and one of my best yeilders. Were you getting the mag deficiency in the NL`s and the rhino`s.
These girls I have going now are Cheese. They always start a bit yellow from cuttings, but all usually root up well, 100% usually, and usually pick up pretty quickly after a couple of foliar feeds. I never presoak my jiffies or coco with a magnesium of any kind and I gather from what ET says that this is something that people do. I`ll do that next time and see if my plants do better with a good start.
This Cheese is a very pungent and lovely tasting weed, I`d like to get on top of growing well.
These girls I have going now are Cheese. They always start a bit yellow from cuttings, but all usually root up well, 100% usually, and usually pick up pretty quickly after a couple of foliar feeds. I never presoak my jiffies or coco with a magnesium of any kind and I gather from what ET says that this is something that people do. I`ll do that next time and see if my plants do better with a good start.
This Cheese is a very pungent and lovely tasting weed, I`d like to get on top of growing well.
Update, still unsure about things.
Update, still unsure about things.
Ok guys, I`ve been away for a couple of days. on thursday I left the Res` R1 at Ec16, ph6, R2 at Ec17 ph 6 and R3 at Ec16 ph 6. I checked in briefly with them on Monday and the were all at Ec19 ph 5.7. Today or just now actually they`re all on EC23 ph5.7. The tanks are about a quarter full now and getting to be too hot a concentration.
Its been a few days now and I cant say if the interveinal yellowing is getting any worse or better. Some of the worse affected older and larger leaves have as I`d expect gotten worse and there are a lot of leaves showing faded colour between the veins, but I dont see many going really yellow other than those badly affected prior to treating with Epsom salts.The jury is still out for now though.
Except for the leaves that have gone yellow, would I expect the ones that have faded to a lighter green to regain there colour if the deficiency is magnesium and corrected, or would it just be the new growth that would become a nice green?
My gut feeling is to refill them with EC14 (including the teaspoon per 10ltrs Epsom salts) ph 5.8-6.0 along with Bcuzz booster and bloom stimulator.
Someone mentioned earlier in this thread that they thought it might be a P deficiency. Can anyone tell me how to understand the gobbledygook figures given on my nutrient containers, so I can see if there might be a shortage of P.
B`cuzz Coco A+B
Part A (NPK 6-0-5) ingredients:-
Nitrogen (N) 5.6% (of which NH4 0.35%, NO3 5.25%)
Pottasium Oxide (K20) 5.42% (4.5%K)
Natrium Oxide (Na20) 0.23% (0.17%Na)
Calcium Oxide (CaO) 4.49%
Magnesium Oxide (MgO) 1.51% (0.9%Mg
Iron (FE) 0.049%
Boron (B) 0.002%
Part B NPK 1-5-6, ingredients :-
Nitrogen (N total) 0.74% (of which NH4 0.11%, N03 ).063%
Phosphoric Pentoxide (P205) 4.61% (2.01% P)
Potassium Oxide (K20) 6.48% (5.38% K)
Magnesium Oxide (MgO) 0.81% (0.49% Mg)
Sulphate Oxide (SO3) 1.07% (1.28% S)
Iron (FE) 0.001%
Manganese (MN) 0.032%
Boron (B)0.011%
Copper Cu) 0.001%
Molybdenum (Mo) 0.002%
First recommended additive, B`cuzz Booster, ID COCO
Contains micro nutrients in chelate form- enzyme like activity on multi fronts
Aqua bacteria
Contains all the components for the citric acid cycle (WTF?)
Especially developed for the ID varieties on cocos substrate.
2nd recommended additive, B`cuzz bloom stimulator COCO BLOEI
Ensures explosive bloom production in addition to large compact buds. 100% organic, ensures a soft, sweet flavour of end product.
Also, how do you treat a P deficiency problem?
I would have thought that all half decent nutrients available today would contain all the vital elements required by plants to avoid any of these type of deficiencies, could there be another issue such as enviroment etc that could be playing a part in this, as I`m sure the ph is not an issue?
The buds are developing well I think and they`re bushy and strong so I`m hoping they`re doing ok despite this problem, fingers crossed.
I`m posting 4 photo`s here, the 1st one of one of the tanks (hedges) doesn`t show the problem, mostly looking green, but if you look at the 3rd and 4th photo you`ll see the problem showing quite clearly in the leaves. The second photo is of the same stem I posted in the photo`s earlier in the thread and shows clear development of the buds,(the 4th pic on my post dated 14th sept).
What do you think guys??
P`s I`ve given them Ec11 and run out of Epsom Salts, I`ll add this tmro to raise the EC to 14, ie. 1 teaspoon per 10 litres
Update, still unsure about things.
Ok guys, I`ve been away for a couple of days. on thursday I left the Res` R1 at Ec16, ph6, R2 at Ec17 ph 6 and R3 at Ec16 ph 6. I checked in briefly with them on Monday and the were all at Ec19 ph 5.7. Today or just now actually they`re all on EC23 ph5.7. The tanks are about a quarter full now and getting to be too hot a concentration.
Its been a few days now and I cant say if the interveinal yellowing is getting any worse or better. Some of the worse affected older and larger leaves have as I`d expect gotten worse and there are a lot of leaves showing faded colour between the veins, but I dont see many going really yellow other than those badly affected prior to treating with Epsom salts.The jury is still out for now though.
Except for the leaves that have gone yellow, would I expect the ones that have faded to a lighter green to regain there colour if the deficiency is magnesium and corrected, or would it just be the new growth that would become a nice green?
My gut feeling is to refill them with EC14 (including the teaspoon per 10ltrs Epsom salts) ph 5.8-6.0 along with Bcuzz booster and bloom stimulator.
Someone mentioned earlier in this thread that they thought it might be a P deficiency. Can anyone tell me how to understand the gobbledygook figures given on my nutrient containers, so I can see if there might be a shortage of P.
B`cuzz Coco A+B
Part A (NPK 6-0-5) ingredients:-
Nitrogen (N) 5.6% (of which NH4 0.35%, NO3 5.25%)
Pottasium Oxide (K20) 5.42% (4.5%K)
Natrium Oxide (Na20) 0.23% (0.17%Na)
Calcium Oxide (CaO) 4.49%
Magnesium Oxide (MgO) 1.51% (0.9%Mg
Iron (FE) 0.049%
Boron (B) 0.002%
Part B NPK 1-5-6, ingredients :-
Nitrogen (N total) 0.74% (of which NH4 0.11%, N03 ).063%
Phosphoric Pentoxide (P205) 4.61% (2.01% P)
Potassium Oxide (K20) 6.48% (5.38% K)
Magnesium Oxide (MgO) 0.81% (0.49% Mg)
Sulphate Oxide (SO3) 1.07% (1.28% S)
Iron (FE) 0.001%
Manganese (MN) 0.032%
Boron (B)0.011%
Copper Cu) 0.001%
Molybdenum (Mo) 0.002%
First recommended additive, B`cuzz Booster, ID COCO
Contains micro nutrients in chelate form- enzyme like activity on multi fronts
Aqua bacteria
Contains all the components for the citric acid cycle (WTF?)
Especially developed for the ID varieties on cocos substrate.
2nd recommended additive, B`cuzz bloom stimulator COCO BLOEI
Ensures explosive bloom production in addition to large compact buds. 100% organic, ensures a soft, sweet flavour of end product.
Also, how do you treat a P deficiency problem?
I would have thought that all half decent nutrients available today would contain all the vital elements required by plants to avoid any of these type of deficiencies, could there be another issue such as enviroment etc that could be playing a part in this, as I`m sure the ph is not an issue?
The buds are developing well I think and they`re bushy and strong so I`m hoping they`re doing ok despite this problem, fingers crossed.
I`m posting 4 photo`s here, the 1st one of one of the tanks (hedges) doesn`t show the problem, mostly looking green, but if you look at the 3rd and 4th photo you`ll see the problem showing quite clearly in the leaves. The second photo is of the same stem I posted in the photo`s earlier in the thread and shows clear development of the buds,(the 4th pic on my post dated 14th sept).
What do you think guys??
P`s I`ve given them Ec11 and run out of Epsom Salts, I`ll add this tmro to raise the EC to 14, ie. 1 teaspoon per 10 litres
Attachments
E
EvilTwin
Hi Tokesome,
P deficiency is quite rare and it doesn't look like P defiency. Whereas, Mg deficiency is very common and it looks exactly like Mg deficiency.
I think you're starting to get the idea that this can get very complicated. Many nutrient issue that appear to be deficiencies occur when there is plenty of that nutrient available. An excess of one nutrient can block a different nutrient. A ph out of range can slow or halt absorption of nutrients. That's why there's so much talk about "nutrient lockout". The nutrient is there but the plant can't use it.
Coco has some characteristics that make it different from other media. It can give off high levels of K+, especially as it ages. It has a high level of Cation exchange capacity (C.E.C.) which means that it can bind certain cations (+ charged ions).
Phosphorus plays a role in energy utilization in the plant. This is done when ADP is converted to ATP during the citric acid cycle. Slept through biology?
You should have set your system up so you only had one res to maintain. The only thing I can think of right now that really jumps out is that you're running your ph consistantly too high. When you correct...shoot for low 5s...5.2 or 5.4 and see if that improves your nutrient absorption. Also back off on the epsom salts to 1/2 tsp/gal.
Here's a shot of some small plants to see if my technique will allow the pictures to show.
Cheers,
ET
P deficiency is quite rare and it doesn't look like P defiency. Whereas, Mg deficiency is very common and it looks exactly like Mg deficiency.
I think you're starting to get the idea that this can get very complicated. Many nutrient issue that appear to be deficiencies occur when there is plenty of that nutrient available. An excess of one nutrient can block a different nutrient. A ph out of range can slow or halt absorption of nutrients. That's why there's so much talk about "nutrient lockout". The nutrient is there but the plant can't use it.
Coco has some characteristics that make it different from other media. It can give off high levels of K+, especially as it ages. It has a high level of Cation exchange capacity (C.E.C.) which means that it can bind certain cations (+ charged ions).
Phosphorus plays a role in energy utilization in the plant. This is done when ADP is converted to ATP during the citric acid cycle. Slept through biology?
You should have set your system up so you only had one res to maintain. The only thing I can think of right now that really jumps out is that you're running your ph consistantly too high. When you correct...shoot for low 5s...5.2 or 5.4 and see if that improves your nutrient absorption. Also back off on the epsom salts to 1/2 tsp/gal.
Here's a shot of some small plants to see if my technique will allow the pictures to show.
Cheers,
ET
Attachments
Hi ET. Ok, I`ll set the ph a little lower. the reason I started upping it is because these plants suffered from low ph early in veg and the deficiency started then. My meter was out and had been giving them high 4`s instead of low to mid 5`s so I`ve been playing it safe (too safe maybe). I dont understand why having 1 res instead of 3 would be an advantage, could you explain mate?
Yeah missed biology altogether unfortunately.
The Epsom dosage I`m applying is roughly as you suggest 1 teaspoon per 10ltrs, 1/2 teaspoon per 5ltrs(aprox 1 gallon)
The yellowing does seem to be getting a bit worse, though I`m not sure this would be normal for the already affected leaves, but its very worrying. Its hard to tell if the new leaves are showing any or not, time will tell, though I`m really hoping to get this sorted as I cant really cope with another failed crop.
I`m having to put wires across above to tie some of the long outer stems up to, as some are starting to lean over. I wouldn`t normally expect to do that yet even with tall plants like these, I`m guessing they`re a bit weak from the stress they`re suffering. I`m off to get some Epsom salts then I`ll come back and adjust the ph and set the drippers going again.
I`ll set at ph 5.4-5.6 to stay just on the safe side, my liquid ph test kit only goes down to 6, I find the 4-10 range almost useless.
I still have the feeling that a good flush and then a good nutrient solution might help, but I`ve tested for ph and Ec of the run off and all seems fine there.
Thanks, Tokesome
Mmmmm photos eh?
Yeah missed biology altogether unfortunately.
The Epsom dosage I`m applying is roughly as you suggest 1 teaspoon per 10ltrs, 1/2 teaspoon per 5ltrs(aprox 1 gallon)
The yellowing does seem to be getting a bit worse, though I`m not sure this would be normal for the already affected leaves, but its very worrying. Its hard to tell if the new leaves are showing any or not, time will tell, though I`m really hoping to get this sorted as I cant really cope with another failed crop.
I`m having to put wires across above to tie some of the long outer stems up to, as some are starting to lean over. I wouldn`t normally expect to do that yet even with tall plants like these, I`m guessing they`re a bit weak from the stress they`re suffering. I`m off to get some Epsom salts then I`ll come back and adjust the ph and set the drippers going again.
I`ll set at ph 5.4-5.6 to stay just on the safe side, my liquid ph test kit only goes down to 6, I find the 4-10 range almost useless.
I still have the feeling that a good flush and then a good nutrient solution might help, but I`ve tested for ph and Ec of the run off and all seems fine there.
Thanks, Tokesome
Mmmmm photos eh?
E
EvilTwin
Hi Tokesome,
There are a couple of important issues that play an advantage with a single large res. First off, it's more resistant to change, hence more stable. Easier since you only measure and correct a single res. All your plants are fed identically so it's easier to manage issues like the one you're having. There are a few negative aspects too: If you get a root disease...it will spread throughout the system.
Sorry...you're correct about your epsom measurements. Wasn't thinking proper metric.
Hey...you really need to get over to the coco forums...
http://www.icmag.com/ic/forumdisplay.php?f=65577
And either start a thread or go to a thread already in existence and ask some questions. Those guys deal with coco issues all the time.
ET
There are a couple of important issues that play an advantage with a single large res. First off, it's more resistant to change, hence more stable. Easier since you only measure and correct a single res. All your plants are fed identically so it's easier to manage issues like the one you're having. There are a few negative aspects too: If you get a root disease...it will spread throughout the system.
Sorry...you're correct about your epsom measurements. Wasn't thinking proper metric.
Hey...you really need to get over to the coco forums...
http://www.icmag.com/ic/forumdisplay.php?f=65577
And either start a thread or go to a thread already in existence and ask some questions. Those guys deal with coco issues all the time.
ET
Yeah good idea mate I`ll have a look at that when I`ve some time later. Just been having a look through the girls and notice the resin is forming nicely on the leaves around the buds, and all the leaves close to the buds are a good rich green colour. There are a lot of leaves close to these that are affected lightly and the rest of the larger (generally larger) leaves that are effected are turning yellow and dying off, the damage here though never was going to be repairable.
I`ve got the ph down to 5.7 now and going to let them feed for a while then re read them and adjust down to 5.4 to 5.6.
Thanks for your input ET, I`ll probably start a thread in the coco forum, hope to see you there mate
I`ve got the ph down to 5.7 now and going to let them feed for a while then re read them and adjust down to 5.4 to 5.6.
Thanks for your input ET, I`ll probably start a thread in the coco forum, hope to see you there mate
Billy Burroughs
Member
not sure what ur having troubles with exactally but if its with your leaves not turning yellow and remaining that dark green color but they're getting close to harvest am i right if so just flush them a few times them leafs will start turning yelllow and dropping off left n right
Hi ET, and others, I`ve opened up a thread in the coco forum to continue my quest for WTF`s going on with this deficiency problem of mine. I`ll keep it there until harvest so people can follow it to the end so to speak
See ya there hopefully
URL:- http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=2712730&posted=1#post2712730
See ya there hopefully
URL:- http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=2712730&posted=1#post2712730
E
EvilTwin
T,
I'll check in tomorrow to see if you're getting any input over there. I'm quite sure it's a specific coco related nutrient issue.
ET
I'll check in tomorrow to see if you're getting any input over there. I'm quite sure it's a specific coco related nutrient issue.
ET
