Stich we are two different people. I just realized my pictures are not visible anymore? Can anyone explain what's the correct way to upload pictures on to the this thread?
Split from : The Complete guide to Sick Plants,pH, and Pest troubles!
Stich we are two different people. I just realized my pictures are not visible anymore? Can anyone explain what's the correct way to upload pictures on to the this thread?
My bad runner LOL, the way those 2 posts were posted was if one person said what they needed to say and then came back to finish the rest with another handle lolol
I wil post on your problems in another post runner and the black.
Gergles, yes light bleaching can occur overnight easily, sometimes within hours depending on how much light.
Starting 12/12 with bloom, right when 12/12 is started can contribute to early nitrogen deficiency problems. Depending on what strain and if it's more indica than sativa flowering ratios, that could be a good or bad thing. Longer flowering times early nitrogen deficiency can cause some problems.... but I would first get the problem fixed with the lighting.
Since you can't move it up any farter you are in a tough situation.
How far into flowering are you?
The only other option you have is removing the dead leaves and or cutting the top.
But I must stress this, you run a very high risk of causing it to become hermie if it's still in early flowering, later flowering there would not be enough time for it to fully mature pollen sacks and you end up getting "nanners" un mature male sacks that do not open up.
Either way your plants are stressed, ; so if you top it, keep a look out for them, do you know what they look like?
The Black, you can post them in your gallery; but you do not have enough posts to post pictures in threads yet.
I wil post on your problems in another post runner and the black.
Gergles, yes light bleaching can occur overnight easily, sometimes within hours depending on how much light.
Starting 12/12 with bloom, right when 12/12 is started can contribute to early nitrogen deficiency problems. Depending on what strain and if it's more indica than sativa flowering ratios, that could be a good or bad thing. Longer flowering times early nitrogen deficiency can cause some problems.... but I would first get the problem fixed with the lighting.
Since you can't move it up any farter you are in a tough situation.
How far into flowering are you?
The only other option you have is removing the dead leaves and or cutting the top.
But I must stress this, you run a very high risk of causing it to become hermie if it's still in early flowering, later flowering there would not be enough time for it to fully mature pollen sacks and you end up getting "nanners" un mature male sacks that do not open up.
Either way your plants are stressed, ; so if you top it, keep a look out for them, do you know what they look like?
The Black, you can post them in your gallery; but you do not have enough posts to post pictures in threads yet.
Runner this post is about your problem.
Then your meter is most defiantly off, you can't go by that since meters un calbrate themselves over time.....
Ya, your problem is root rot, the plant is not getting what it needs, due to sickly roots.
You got the idea, keep those temps down and do not let it exceed 70F. Do you have a chiller? What are you using to keep temps down? If you do not have a chiller there are other ways home methods you can use to keep it cool.
To cleanse the system without the plant in it, use 2 -4 teaspoons per gallon of water and mix hot water with it real good, rinse well after finished.
This is what you can do, get another bucket put in 2 teaspoons h202 per gallon of water.
Take your plants roots and dip them in and out of the solution let them sit in there for about 5 seconds every time you put them back in the water, then remove them and repeat the process.
h202 is good for dipping and not good for using it in your system. H202 will get rid of only so much of the rot and then the other survive, but this time h202 has removed the plants good bacteria allowing it to be more open subseptable to a worse infection.
If you would use it in your setup; it's a very high chance it comes back and comes back quicker and worse.
Do you have access to a hydro shop?
Sm 90 will clear that up real quick! Wait, are you in Europe by any chance? Repeat every 7 days. Yes, you will need to rinse everything the water came in contact with otherwise can come back lol.
Root rot is a bitch and is a pain in the ( Y )
Reason why new growth is not affected, is because the root rot is higher on the plant, it's only starting to go down the root system and is only slightly affected. They are sitting in water affected, but the newer roots have not as bad as the top roots, newer roots and newer growth would look normal until the rot takes them over to a certain point.
It is extremely important you find some solution, or get another TDS pen.... Your ppms will be high with root rot, that is another reason why I say your pen is off, ROT will give you high TDS readings.
Then your meter is most defiantly off, you can't go by that since meters un calbrate themselves over time.....
Ya, your problem is root rot, the plant is not getting what it needs, due to sickly roots.
You got the idea, keep those temps down and do not let it exceed 70F. Do you have a chiller? What are you using to keep temps down? If you do not have a chiller there are other ways home methods you can use to keep it cool.
To cleanse the system without the plant in it, use 2 -4 teaspoons per gallon of water and mix hot water with it real good, rinse well after finished.
This is what you can do, get another bucket put in 2 teaspoons h202 per gallon of water.
Take your plants roots and dip them in and out of the solution let them sit in there for about 5 seconds every time you put them back in the water, then remove them and repeat the process.
h202 is good for dipping and not good for using it in your system. H202 will get rid of only so much of the rot and then the other survive, but this time h202 has removed the plants good bacteria allowing it to be more open subseptable to a worse infection.
If you would use it in your setup; it's a very high chance it comes back and comes back quicker and worse.
Do you have access to a hydro shop?
Sm 90 will clear that up real quick! Wait, are you in Europe by any chance? Repeat every 7 days. Yes, you will need to rinse everything the water came in contact with otherwise can come back lol.
Root rot is a bitch and is a pain in the ( Y )
Reason why new growth is not affected, is because the root rot is higher on the plant, it's only starting to go down the root system and is only slightly affected. They are sitting in water affected, but the newer roots have not as bad as the top roots, newer roots and newer growth would look normal until the rot takes them over to a certain point.
It is extremely important you find some solution, or get another TDS pen.... Your ppms will be high with root rot, that is another reason why I say your pen is off, ROT will give you high TDS readings.
Stich im hoping you could help me. Im pretty new to this but ive helped with a few grows previously, just never DWC. But i have read what fells like every thread in the past few months on this and other websites in an effort to learn.
I built a 24 bucket rec. DWC system almost identical to Blazes tutorial. I got my Blueberry clones in 1 inch RW cubes and put them in 6" baskets about 1 inch form the bottom of the net pot and my water level is about 1 inch under the bottom of the net pot. the first couple of days were tricky for me becuase i didnt want to overwater the cubes so i ended up underwatering them as the cubes were two high(originally 2 inches from bottom of net pot)
I lowered the cubes and the roots started to come out the pots like crazy a couple of days ago. What i notcied is that the plants with the roots that first started to reach the water/nutes started to show yellowing on the new growth. The yellowing starts at the bottom of the leaf and progresses towards the tip. When they hit the water/nutes i was feeding 480ppm at about 5.3-5.5ph. Yesterday I added nutes and raised the ppm to 650, but today the yellowing is spreading. Today almost all the plants have reached the water/nutes and they are all pretty much showing the same problem. After reading your original post, sulfer is the only thing that occured to me but i wanted to get your opnion before starting to add epsom salt to my feeding tank. i will upload pics shortly.
c
How long has this problem been going on? 2DAYS
Are you growing in a PVC grow tent? (example: Hydrohut or any other non brand tents) NO
What system are you running? (DWC? Ebb flow? Aero? Water Farm? Flood Tables? and so on...) REC. DWC
What STRAIN are you growing? BLUEBERRY
What was the establishing technique? (Were the seed or clone?)CLONE
What is the age of your plants? 3 WEEKS (ESTAMITED)
How long have they been in there mixture hey are in now?(coco,soiless etc..)5 DAYS
How tall are the plants? 16 INCHES
What PHASE are the plants in? (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in? VEGETATIVE
What Technique are you using?
What substrate/medium are you using?(Hydroton, RockWool etc.)1 INCH ROCKWOOL CUBES IN HYDROTON
What is the Water temperature? 74 DEGREES (IM WORKING TO BRING IT DOWN LOWER)
What color are your roots? White? Brown? Are your roots slimy? WHITE
What Nutrient's are you using?(If growing soiless) DUTCH MASTER SHIVA A AND B, COBRA
How much of each nutrient are you using with how much water? *Knowing the brand is very helpful* MIXED EQUAL AMOUNTS UNTIL I REACH DESIRED PPM
How often are you feeding? (If using soiless) CONTINUOS
How often are you giving nutrients? (If using soiless) CONTINUOS
If flowering, when did you switch over to using Bloom nutrients? N/A
What order are you mixing your nutrients? (example: veg nutes 1st, bloom 2nd ect) A THAN B AND REPEAT UNTIL I REACH DESIRED PPM
What is the TDS/EC/PPM you are using? NUTRADIP TRIMETER
What is the pH of the "Tank"? 5.3 TO 5.7
Are you sure your calibration is correct on your equiptment? YES
When was your last watering? N/A
What is your water temps? 74 DEGREES
When was your last feeding change? (ie. grow-bloom-micro-additional) THIS IS THE FIRST NUTE MIX FOR THIS GROW
How often do you clean your system: example: Flush out water replace with clean water and nutrients? N/A
What size bulb are you using? 12 600 WATT BULBS ARE ON PRESENTLY 24 FOR FLOWERING
What is the distance to the canopy? 48 INCHES
What is your RH Factor(Relative Humidity)? FROM 25 TO 50 PERCENT
What is the canopy temperature? FROM 70 TO 83 DEGREES
What is the Day/Night Temp? (Include flucutaion range) 24 HOURS AT THE MOMENT WITH TEMPS RANGING FROM 70 TO 83 DEGREES. RUNNING A DEDICATED AC IN ROOM.
What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.) 5 TONS
Tell us about your ventilation, intake exhaust and when its running and not running ? SEALED ROOM
Is the fan blowing directly at plants? NO BUT AC AIR DOES DEFLECT OFF WALLS AND BLOWS KIND OF COLD ONTO PLANTS.
Is your water HARD or SOFT? 8.0/250PPM BEFORE RUNNING RO 8.0/40 AFTER
What water are you using? Reverse Osmosis (RO)? Tap? Bottled? Well water? Distilled? Mineral Water? RO
Are you using water from a water softener? NO
Has plant been recently pruned, cloned off of or pinched NO
Have any pest chemicals been used? If so, What and When? NO
Are plant's infected with pest's NO
With your water being hard, you should not have a sulfur problem. It's rate for a plant to show sulfur in hydro, unless it's growing in a hydro hut lol
Sounds to me it may be a nitrogen problem...... Are the rock wool cubes the same color? No greenish?
Sometimes using RO water on newly rooted clones can get the same effect seedlings have, using RO water on seedlings and newly rooted clones I would not recommend, due to low micro nutrient count and can contribute to slower rooting time and nitrogen deficiency problems.
I am not saying this is what your problem is yet until I see pictures; I can only go by what you tell me at this point. You say you are using RO, then you say your ppms at 250..... you using tap or ro or both?
The temps have to definitely come down, otherwise you will have root rot on your hands eventually and it's a bitch, cause the whole system will need sanitized and with the # of buckets/plants you got..... You will not be a happy camper!!
WHat are you using to keep the temps down? You want the water temps 65-70F
If the yellowing is starting at the bottom, it sounds like nitrogen.... weather it be from low ppm or the RO slowing the rooting process down.... not sure yet.
I always tell people to mix tap water/ro or tap/distilled ratio so the micros in there to help with the rooting.....
Please help a newbie
Please help a newbie
Hello all I hope someone can help me
* Hydro or Soil - Soil, Roots Organics straight out of the bag, 3 gallon Smart Pots
* Type of light? - Sunleaves Pioneer VIII Grow 4' 8 tube T5 fluor veg bulbs, running 24h a day
* "Atmosphere" Conditions - 5'x10'x8' room, 177 CFM (after filter) inline fan, carbon filter, 2 oscillating fans, air temp 75 F, humidity 42%, temp and humidity do not vary much
* Watering - Using tap water that has sat in open container at least 24h, I think I was over watering (1 quart per plant per day) but now I only water when they feel light and start to droop, using 3 gallon Smart Pots
* PH Range - Water PH 7, run-off PH 7
* Nutrients/Supplements - Roots Organics line (ml per gallon of water) Budda Grow 15ml, Extreme Serene 10ml, Trinity 15ml, Ancient Amber 15ml
I have been watering with straight water for the last two weeks except last night I used the nutes listed above but forgot to add the Cal-Mag.
More pics in the link in my sig, thanks all.
Please help a newbie
Hello all I hope someone can help me
* Hydro or Soil - Soil, Roots Organics straight out of the bag, 3 gallon Smart Pots
* Type of light? - Sunleaves Pioneer VIII Grow 4' 8 tube T5 fluor veg bulbs, running 24h a day
* "Atmosphere" Conditions - 5'x10'x8' room, 177 CFM (after filter) inline fan, carbon filter, 2 oscillating fans, air temp 75 F, humidity 42%, temp and humidity do not vary much
* Watering - Using tap water that has sat in open container at least 24h, I think I was over watering (1 quart per plant per day) but now I only water when they feel light and start to droop, using 3 gallon Smart Pots
* PH Range - Water PH 7, run-off PH 7
* Nutrients/Supplements - Roots Organics line (ml per gallon of water) Budda Grow 15ml, Extreme Serene 10ml, Trinity 15ml, Ancient Amber 15ml
I have been watering with straight water for the last two weeks except last night I used the nutes listed above but forgot to add the Cal-Mag.
More pics in the link in my sig, thanks all.
Hi Stitch,
Yeah I'm in Europe, sort of. Not the most advanced part of it so all the goodies like SM-90 are out of question. Currently I'm not using anything to cool the water down but I plan to put ice near reservoirs, open cabinets doors, open windows etc. Do ou know of any other methods? When you say I need to rinse everything water came into contact with by water you mean nutrient solution or the h202 solution I'll dip the roots into and if its nutrient should I pour water through the medium to wash it up? Also is it ok to dip the bottom of the pot in h202 so that bottom part of the medium is soaked? There is an algea in the medium, should i do something to get rid of it?
Yeah I'm in Europe, sort of. Not the most advanced part of it so all the goodies like SM-90 are out of question. Currently I'm not using anything to cool the water down but I plan to put ice near reservoirs, open cabinets doors, open windows etc. Do ou know of any other methods? When you say I need to rinse everything water came into contact with by water you mean nutrient solution or the h202 solution I'll dip the roots into and if its nutrient should I pour water through the medium to wash it up? Also is it ok to dip the bottom of the pot in h202 so that bottom part of the medium is soaked? There is an algea in the medium, should i do something to get rid of it?
aeroponic to coco transplant
aeroponic to coco transplant
Hi Stitch,
They should pay you for the amount of work you put in here, bro. Thanks and much respect. Question: on a scale of 1-10, how much stress would it be on a plant that was cloned aeroponically, vegged aeroponically with high sustained CO2, to be transplanted at around 15"-20" from the Aeroflo into a 4-gallon ebb-n-grow bucket with coco chips? Was thinking of using the Aeroflo for veg only, flower in something bigger and almost as oxygen-rich (coco chips almost the size of croutons)...
aeroponic to coco transplant
Hi Stitch,
They should pay you for the amount of work you put in here, bro. Thanks and much respect. Question: on a scale of 1-10, how much stress would it be on a plant that was cloned aeroponically, vegged aeroponically with high sustained CO2, to be transplanted at around 15"-20" from the Aeroflo into a 4-gallon ebb-n-grow bucket with coco chips? Was thinking of using the Aeroflo for veg only, flower in something bigger and almost as oxygen-rich (coco chips almost the size of croutons)...
Stich, I have posted the pics onto my Gallery. Let me know what you think when you get a chance .
BTW.The three pics labled "sulfer deficiency" are the ones that I previously attempted to load.
The pictures labled "four days later" show what the same plant looks like today. This is four days after raising the ppm from 650 to 750 with dissolved epsom salt (roughly 1/2 teaspoon per gallon). I also stopped trying to get my ph down to 5.3 everyday. I havent phed in five days and the ph slowly floated up to 5.7/5.8 and it has mainted itself the last few days without changing. STRANGE? The yellowing at the base of the previuosly affected leaves has been pushed out near the tips. Because of how long it took me to load the pictures in order to get your opinion, I was forced to take action.
The yellowing on the new growth has seamingly been resolved but now some plants are shaped like a V. Magensium deficiency? uploaded two pics labeled "new deficiency" I dont know if this is a product of mainitng the ph at 5.7/5.8 for so many days? Is that a bad thing?
The pictures labled "four days later" show what the same plant looks like today. This is four days after raising the ppm from 650 to 750 with dissolved epsom salt (roughly 1/2 teaspoon per gallon). I also stopped trying to get my ph down to 5.3 everyday. I havent phed in five days and the ph slowly floated up to 5.7/5.8 and it has mainted itself the last few days without changing. STRANGE? The yellowing at the base of the previuosly affected leaves has been pushed out near the tips. Because of how long it took me to load the pictures in order to get your opinion, I was forced to take action.
The yellowing on the new growth has seamingly been resolved but now some plants are shaped like a V. Magensium deficiency? uploaded two pics labeled "new deficiency" I dont know if this is a product of mainitng the ph at 5.7/5.8 for so many days? Is that a bad thing?
You can do that, just make sure you don't use it in the res, cause you can water down nute strength and depending on if it's tap can throw your pH off.... so you could also rotate 2 or 3 liter bottles that have frozen water in them and when they melt, have some others in the fridge waiting and put the melted ones back in the fridge and repeat, can be a pain depending on how warm your water is, but it's worth it if you are on a budget. Bags of ice cubes around the buckets can do some, but would have to have a lot, and by the time they made a difference they would be mostly metled.......
You can get a bunch of ice packs for coolers and put them around the bucket and insulate it with silver sheets you can put on your windows in wintertime to stop warm temps leaving through cracks.
That is hard to tell which one since I don't live in europe and it's hard to tell, I can ask some people if you like.
What I mean by clean everything that water comes in contact with is like tubes, buckets hoses, clamps and so forth. Ya, everything h202 came in contact with, cause if you cleaned everything nutrient solution came in contact with, it would be the same as water came in contact with.
When you dip You can poor solution in the medium yes, after pouring it cleaning out the medium,then dip the roots into the solution.
Ya, h202 will rid that of algea growth.
Your water has lack of o2 if you got algea growth, warm temps is the cause of this.... get rid of root rot by help maintaining proper cool temps and your plants will have more o2 with cooler temps.
THank you got your kind comment
Ya, if I had more time I would be here more often..... Technically I am getting paid.... I Have a book out about sick plants I get royalties from.It's called Marijuana Garden Saver
There is one thing that is concern.. even though the systems are near the same with there way the roots grow That is going to be extra hard, depending on how many plants was in your aero system,because roots get tangled together in an aero system.
I would not recommend it, there is a extremely high amount of stress you will be putting on them, with them being in the system as long as you stated... to much of a risk imo.
So this will be kind of dangerous due to removing the root mass and depending on how big the plant is and how tangled they can get.
Hello all I hope someone can help me
* Hydro or Soil - Soil, Roots Organics straight out of the bag, 3 gallon Smart Pots
* Type of light? - Sunleaves Pioneer VIII Grow 4' 8 tube T5 fluor veg bulbs, running 24h a day
* "Atmosphere" Conditions - 5'x10'x8' room, 177 CFM (after filter) inline fan, carbon filter, 2 oscillating fans, air temp 75 F, humidity 42%, temp and humidity do not vary much
* Watering - Using tap water that has sat in open container at least 24h, I think I was over watering (1 quart per plant per day) but now I only water when they feel light and start to droop, using 3 gallon Smart Pots
* PH Range - Water PH 7, run-off PH 7
* Nutrients/Supplements - Roots Organics line (ml per gallon of water) Budda Grow 15ml, Extreme Serene 10ml, Trinity 15ml, Ancient Amber 15ml
I have been watering with straight water for the last two weeks except last night I used the nutes listed above but forgot to add the Cal-Mag.
More pics in the link in my sig, thanks all.
How often are you feeding and how are you testing your pH?
Overwatering will cause nitrogen deficiency like you see there, with the amount of nutes you are using, the reason why you are not seeing a burn, is because you were watering frequency,... you should go by the size of your plants not the directions in your situation.......
Have you tested your TDS of your tap water?
The other picture looks like a magnesium problem.... start adding some cal mag... but important thing now is how often are you feeding them?
Wait got the pictures now!
FIrst stop keeping it that acidic....... another thing the pictures are so dull I can't tel if it's yellow or whitish yellow......
If your pH is being maintained then your plants are using more water then nutrients which points to too high of nutrient solution..
Either your pH is causing this from you constantly trying to keep the pH at a certain level, of this is light bleaching..... you should never see a sulfur problem in hydro unless your plants were in PVC grow tents/huts.......
First flush the system out and add fresh... I know it sounds like a pain, what are you using for pH adjusting.....
If you contacntly adjust the pH and depending on how much of it you use it may build up...
You take your nutes and add what you need then check the pH and TDS..... the pH will raise when plants remove nutrients..... so when you add more nutrients check the pH and adjust when needed...... never use high nutrient levels to adjust the pH.
Hydro you can have a pH range of 5.5 to 6.3... if that is a sulfur problem, it's due to having a low pH, so raise it to around 5.5 to 6.2
Try 6.0 pH if you can't get it there but just under it like 5.8 that is fine too.
Using high levels of pH adjuster all the time is not good.....
Another thing that is kind of confusing you stated this :
Is your water HARD or SOFT? 8.0/250PPM BEFORE RUNNING RO 8.0/40 AFTER
Are you using RO water or tap? Are you sure all your water that is coming out 40 ppm?
DO you own a RO system or get it from a store in bulk?
Hard water will make it nearly impossible to grow in hydro due to high mineral content and high pH; so by using lots of pH adjusters it causes problems and it's hard to bring the pH down to the proper level....
I am not watering until the plant starts to droop and show that it is thirsty and then I am using 1 to 1 and a half quarts of water in a 3 gallon pot.///EDIT/// Correction, it is closer to 1.5 to 2 quarts)///END EDIT/// This would be about every 3-5 days depending on the plant.
I have checked the PH with strips but the damn colors are so similar I am not sure how accurate it is but water going in and coming of pots is the same and appears to be at 7 to me and I have a cheapo soil PH tester and it reads about 7.2 when used right after watering.
I have not tested the TDS of my tap water.
I added the Cal-Mag when I made my last batch of nutes night before last but only three have needed watering so far but I just got home and have not checked yet. Thanks for the reply.
No, you stated in the post that you were overwatering, nitrogen has problems getting absorbed when the soil is wet frequently, I did not say that your problem now is over watered...
but the yellow leaves is a nitrogen problem that WAS caused by overwatering, nitrogen affected leaves do not recover and stay that way and eventually fall off after the plant is finished with it.
If you have to water your plants everyday then the plants are rootbound...Not saying this has to do with your case, just saying for future information
smaller plants should not need watering everyday.... your plants tell all and so forth.....
How often are you feeding your plants? That dosage you give for the size of the plant is kinda high........
No, you stated in the post that you were overwatering, nitrogen has problems getting absorbed when the soil is wet frequently, I did not say that your problem now is over watered...
but the yellow leaves is a nitrogen problem that WAS caused by overwatering, nitrogen affected leaves do not recover and stay that way and eventually fall off after the plant is finished with it.
If you have to water your plants everyday then the plants are rootbound...Not saying this has to do with your case, just saying for future information
smaller plants should not need watering everyday.... your plants tell all and so forth.....
How often are you feeding your plants? That dosage you give for the size of the plant is kinda high........
Thank you for taking the time, it is much appreciated
Correct, I believe I had been over watering in the past but I am not watering until they are very dry now.
I am using nutes every time I water, is this wrong? Should I alternate with straight water? (I am such a noob)
Should I cut nutes in half? I was going by the Roots Organics feeding schedule but still using the 3-4 week dose even though I am into the fifth week.
Do they seem small for 5 weeks?
On a kind of related topic, how long can I veg for? I am under 24/0
///EDIT/// Added pics of size more in sig link and uploaded video to youtube
These are biggest
Stich Im using GH PH down to lower my ph. I thought running a rec. DWC called for lowered ph levels. I think i got my ph range from Blazeoneup's DWC tutorial. I guess its time to flush.
I run my tap water through my own RO filter. I dont buy the water filtered from another source. I have a nutradip trimeter in my RO water resorvier so im pretty sure about the 40ppm reading.
Any comments on the latest pictures which are labeled "new deficiency"?
Theblack: I can't tell what you are talking about, because the pictures are too dark, out of focus and dull in color..... can you take some pictures that is not so close and brighter?
What is wrong with the leaves you are speaking off? The curling of the leaves upwards, or the lower leaves yellowing with green veins?
What is wrong with the leaves you are speaking off? The curling of the leaves upwards, or the lower leaves yellowing with green veins?
Thank you for taking the time, it is much appreciated
Correct, I believe I had been over watering in the past but I am not watering until they are very dry now.
I am using nutes every time I water, is this wrong? Should I alternate with straight water? (I am such a noob)
Should I cut nutes in half? I was going by the Roots Organics feeding schedule but still using the 3-4 week dose even though I am into the fifth week.
Do they seem small for 5 weeks?
On a kind of related topic, how long can I veg for? I am under 24/0
///EDIT/// Added pics of size more in sig link and uploaded video to youtube
These are biggest
There is nothing wrong with feeding every water, BUT you must once in a while have plain water to give to your plants to flush out excess and built up salts and "left overs" the plant did not use.
That nitrogen issue is not a normal looking one and there has to be a build up in the plants.
I would give them plain water in between feedings to help flush out any unwanted in the soil. I noticed some leaves curling there, you do have a build up going, not burn, but too much un wanted junk....
Keep your dosages the same for right now, give them a good watering, not flushing but with a nice amount of run off that comes out the bottom.
then after a week or 2 of watering in between feedings, chances are you will need to increase your feeding.
Not everyone has to water in between feedings.... that has to do with a lot of factors.... depends on the nutrients.... the medium they are using..... how much nutrients and how often and how much they water.. those all play a factor in if you can feed them every watering and get away with no ill effects.
Thank you for the quick reply, I typically water enough that I am getting a little run off in the catch trays but I will water a bit more to get a good amount of run off when using straight water. I will be getting my water tested for TDS soon and will report back. Again, the help is much appreciated.
