What do you guy's use for preventitive measure's

[Lazyman]

10 mL per Liter of h2o2.

Gotta be more specific with this, that would be the right amount of 3% but many here use 35%.

ALso, can't use peroxide on an organic run, kills everything.

Agreed with Lysol on the Physan 20, I just ordered some based on lots of reading, gonna use it to clean out my salt tank when I do a res change.

 

[Carboy]

I meant of the 3% solution. Yeah 10 mL/L of 35% would be a little intense. LOL I don't know where to get 35% solution, where do you source it from? I can buy a gallon of 3% for about $8.99 at Smart and Final.

I'd like to use the 35% as it would be more economical I should think.

I go to the pool/spa supply. Read the labels and make sure there is nothing active besides H202. Usually 27 - 35%. It's not "food grade" but it's also 15 bucks a gallon. Was once told the difference between food grade and industrial was the label, but i don't know that for a fact.

CB

 

[Lazyman]

I usually get AN or food grade H2O2 for around $20-$40 a gallon, I actually think AN is cheaper than food grade!

 

[cashmunny]

Hydro shops carry the 35% under the brand name mad farmer oxygenator...the 3% has nasty chem stabilizers so don't use it on your crops. Use the 35% or don't use it at all...

look out this shit is corrosive and nothing like %3 DON'T LET IT TOUCH YOUR HANDS DON'T BREATHE IT IN AND DON'T LET IT SPLASH IN YOUR EYES....

That's good info. I think I remember reading on the label that stabililzers were added to the pharm grade stuff. Does that mean that the pure unstabilized h2o2 has a limited shelf life? I wonder how long it lasts.

 

[darookie2000]

That's good info. I think I remember reading on the label that stabililzers were added to the pharm grade stuff. Does that mean that the pure unstabilized h2o2 has a limited shelf life? I wonder how long it lasts.

The shelf life is affected by impurities. Lower concentration has more impurities. Most brown bottle 3% solution contains buffers which are often phytotoxic (actually, toxic to plants and animals). Concentrations above about 70% can be explosive.

 

[wsmith]

I've been using the brown bottle 3% H2O2 from the local chain drug store recently and it's either that or good genetics but I'm happy with what I'm seeing so far...I'm running to waste in coco. I checked the label before I bought it and the ingredients don't show anything funny...and there is no warning about stabilizers being present.
I picked it up after overwatering a few of my plants and I thought the roots could benefit from having some extra oxygen while they waited for some more room to breathe. Don't know how much it helped but all of the plants recovered quickly and I've been using it since at 30ml/gallon on my clones and younger vegging plants as well and they're all taking off nicely also.

 

[simple green]

Guy at my hydro shop said he used to get 35% h2o2 but couldn't any more....mentioned it's more complicated to get in the state now so he ditched it....

Here's the option I went with...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PM1OYO


Not necessarily too cheap, but not too pricey...
Only 12'% (a lil safer) but it is the "food grade" we are looking for...

 

[Animal Mother]

Can I spray Mad Farmer 35% h202 on my flowersI justharverst? Literally an hour ago. I read that you can spray them to get rid of some white powder type mold on my first purple kush and first grow, hope I didn't kill them.

 

[Beanfish]

I've experimented with many additives over the years and, for the most part, have found most to be unnecessary. Keeping the res/rootmass happy is the key. For example, [in my situation] temps are too hard to keep down for DWC without a chiller. I was always fighting root problems. This is why I switched from RDWC to NFT/aero, now just NFT. The point being, a healthy system that is suited to the growing conditions is the best form of prevention.

That being said, I've found SM90 @ the recommended dose of 2-3ml/gal to have many benefits. Explosive root growth, faster rooting for clones, keeps misters clean, and pests hate it. It did help prevent root rot when I ran my RDWC, but I found it was easier to switch to a system that was better suited for my situation.

I used to run only mediumless systems and never had pest issues. More treatment than prevention but I recently started using coco for moms and starting seeds and the gnats just love it. I live in an area that has a lot of gnats in the summer and they seem to find their way to my grow. A heavy dose of sm90 (15-20ml/gal daily) and some finely crushed mosquito dunk tossed on top of the coco will usually take care of them within a week or two. I also toss small pieces of the dunk (1/2") in any standing water (reservoirs, fresh water tank, basement sump pump basin). If they get out of control, Doctor Doom in a spray can always gets the final say.

 

[SumDumGuy]

F.B your more entertaianing when you try to be be a mentor not a comedian

I personally find anything that comes out of FreezerBoy's keyboard noteworthy my friend and always entertaining never disappointing.

So Like the title say's is there any products out there that can help keep your system clean? Just looking for some ideas to check into. So If anyone has used anything with either good or bad results please chime in.



Thanx
Mantizz

I've noticed that the more additives introduced to the medium whether for deficiencies or for preventative measures soon become your own worst enemy. Some solutions might not be compatible with others and may/will cancel each other out preventing them from doing their job and therefore you're left with an ineffective soup. If possible try a bi-weekly flush - no solvents - just water. I read Krusty used this method and we all know what happened at the end from seeing his beautiful pics. He would always flush on a weekly basis 5 days feed and 2 days water and repeat. Now this may be a little excessive but I CANNOT see anything going wrong with this practice and you will never have salt buildup - heck might even extend the life of your pumps. Nonetheless I am planning this on my current grow and I'll find out first hand if a weekly flush will benefit me

 

[RNDZL]

SM-90 and Aquashield in both soil and water, salt or organic

SM-90: 1.0% coriander oil, 94.0% Sulphated Canola Oil Solution, 5% Triethanolamine*

In my experience it only kills anaerobic bacteria not aerobic bacteria (*aka beneficial)

Aquashield: contains a mixture of several strains of beneficial bacteria, including Bacillis Subtillis, Paenibacillus Polymxa, Bacillus Circulans and Bacillus Amyloiquefaciens which break down (composts) organic debris to keep the plant roots clean and healthy.

Now I am trying other beneficials alternatives (milk based, chicken litter based, etc al.), I greatly desire to make my own microbes but until then this has been efficient and fairly cost effective

* Triethanolamine, often abbreviated as TEA, is an organic chemical compound which is both a tertiary amine and a triol. A triol is a molecule with three alcohol groups. Like other amines, triethanolamine is a strong base due to the lone pair of electrons on the nitrogen atom.

 

[Animal Mother]

Thanks for the great info. My questions is, is there anything I can put on them, or spray on them AFTER harverst, will it harm my flowers if I dip them in water with a h202 solution 1tsp/gal for example, and then dry them. A few people I read on here have soaked the flowers and said it did no damage. I just harvested, so they're still very wet.

 

[El Toker]

AFTER harverst, will it harm my flowers if I dip them in water with a h202 solution 1tsp/gal for example, and then dry them. A few people I read on here have soaked the flowers and said it did no damage. I just harvested, so they're still very wet.

I don't understand. Why would you want to do that?

 

[Animal Mother]

To clean off the PM, powder mildew on some of the super small leaves under the nugs. I read in a few forums to dip them in water with an h2o2 solution as well as read that it will do no harm to spray the flowers with a mist of h2o2 and water solution.