What's new

Need Serious help....

I have 2 AK 47 females from Serious that are budding real nice now and I have 1 problem at least I hope anyway. My leaves have rust spots on them and the leaves are starting to turn yellow. If anyone has any ideas on what this might be please give me some advice I'd like to correct it ASAP.
 

lmv931

Member
post some pics....can't really tell without seeing... could be nut burn or maybe they are lacking a key nut. what type of water r u using?
 
Water from my sink and I drop th PH down to 6.0. I'd love to post some pics but the file is too big. I was gonna post it with the thread but it wouldn't let me.
 

lmv931

Member
wihtout pics its hard to tell but you're PH sounds right. My planst had somethign similar soun ding and all I did was cut down on the nuts and my leaves went back to being dark green.... hopefully this helps...
 
for soil ph of 6 seems a little bit low. try around 6.5...when you start to go below ph of 6 in soil you will get macro nutes locking out then micro nutes and a mixture of the two....ph is key to having healthy plants....on another note be careful of salt...and maybe test your tap water for high levels of chloramine. hope this helped

other than that if you arent using nutes and your ph is right you shouldnt have any problems unless your soil mix is the issue but I doubt that, if the first option didnt work try flushing your plants.
 
yellowing leaves, rust spots... if im not mistaken...

...oops. sounds like calcium and mag.
pH should be corrected first to make sure you don't have lockout due to low (or high) pH. Mag deficiency is possible, but manganese (Mn) deficiency looks like the symptoms described too. The fact is that the easiest solution to most of these deficiencies is leaching the soil and giving a light feed. If you correct the deficiency without fixing the pH, you are likely to lock out other nutrients by creating excess buildup in the soil.
 
for soil ph of 6 seems a little bit low. try around 6.5...when you start to go below ph of 6 in soil you will get macro nutes locking out then micro nutes and a mixture of the two....ph is key to having healthy plants....on another note be careful of salt...and maybe test your tap water for high levels of chloramine. hope this helped

other than that if you arent using nutes and your ph is right you shouldnt have any problems unless your soil mix is the issue but I doubt that, if the first option didnt work try flushing your plants.
Exactly. The solution to most nutrient deficiencies for me always starts out with leaching the soil.
 
pH should be corrected first to make sure you don't have lockout due to low (or high) pH. Mag deficiency is possible, but manganese (Mn) deficiency looks like the symptoms described too. The fact is that the easiest solution to most of these deficiencies is leaching the soil and giving a light feed. If you correct the deficiency without fixing the pH, you are likely to lock out other nutrients by creating excess buildup in the soil.
:yeahthats :D:joint:
 

stihgnobevoli

Active member
Veteran
yeah prolly. i just feed mine light that way i dont have to flush from feeding too much. the leaves tell tales.

Soil

Manganese gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-5.0
Manganese is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.5-6.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Manganese Deficiency.

whats the ph of the runoff? stating the ph of the water when it goes in does nothing to help us help you. you need to tell us what the ph is when its coming out.

at any rate i dont think its mn, at this late stage in growth its more likely macro def not micros.
 
yeah prolly. i just feed mine light that way i dont have to flush from feeding too much. the leaves tell tales.



whats the ph of the runoff? stating the ph of the water when it goes in does nothing to help us help you. you need to tell us what the ph is when its coming out.

at any rate i dont think its mn, at this late stage in growth its more likely macro def not micros.
Doh, my bad, I was medicated before and missed the part about "budding nicely". Lol, good call. In that case, I'd still leach and feed. :) Good looking out!
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
Hi kushking. IMO, 6.5 to 6.8pH is what you're looking for in soil. stihgnobevoli is right, pH testing the runoff will give you the environment pH, not just ingredient pH.

Yellowing with rust spots sounds like a Ca and Mg problem. It could be a deficiency or it could be locked out due to incorrect pH or an imbalance of your nutrient formula.

The first thing I'd do is flush with plain water at 6.5 to 6.8pH. If the runoff is in the same range, you're headed in the right direction. (Lime and humus are essential soil mix ingredients for easy success with pH issues.) If you're runoff is in the correct range, you should be ready to resume your water/feed schedule when the soil gets near dry. Too wet soil can also cause lockout, Nitrogen in particular.

If the runoff pH isn't in the correct range, you may have to compensate with the input to achieve the runoff you want.

If your nute formula contains Ca and Mg suitable for mj, you probably don't need a CalMag supplement. It's also good to know the TDS of your tap. A high TDS indicates you already have stuff in the water that might adversely affect your nute solution. If it's not that high I'd use the hell out of it. If it's high, you may have to reduce your nutes to achieve the total TDS you want to apply. Some taps are so high that it's difficult to get the solution ratios you want. If this is the case, I'd consider an alternate water source.

Many communities are using chloramine (chlorine + ammonia) to treat water. This stuff doesn't evaporate like plain chlorine and could cause problems. Sorry, I have no experience growing with chloramine treated water. Some folks suggest it has to be filtered out as opposed to evaporation.

Assuming it's town water, one easy way to tell what type of treatment chemical is color. Fill a white container with tap and look at the color, sunlight is best. If is has a blue hue, it's just chlorine. Letting it sit in an open container for 24 to 48 hours should evaporate most if not all of the chlorine. I used to bubble the water but it's not necessary IMHO. As long as the container has a relatively large surface area it will evap on it's own. If it's yellow, it's chloramine. I would also consider another water source if you have chloramine treated water.
 
Top