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Yellowing and necrosis on large leaves in the middle of the plant..

CrookedEye

New member
I have a room full of beauties but one or two of them that are in their 4th week of flower have some yellowing in the leaves in the middle of the plant, and it looks to be getting nearer to the new growth. They are yellowing, and the very tips are turning light brown and curling up. In the yellowing, there is also rust colored spots, and the very tips of those leaves are the lighter brown that are crispy and turning up. Some of the lower yellow leaves (not the very bottom leaves, but lower middle) have the rust spots, but spaced out much more than the one's near the center of the plant, and the same goes for the upper middle leaves. The problem seems to be stemming from the center of the plants colas, not the bottom or top.

They were originally potted in sphagnum peat and perlite, without the dolomite lime, and vegged for a month, or more, without nutrients. They were showing deficiencies during vegging that cleared up when I started feeding them. The PH of the nute solution was adjusted to the proper level with dolomite lime (about a 10 tsp per 25 gallon mix), and they have been receiving the Fox Farms full nutrient line, as directed by the feeding chart. They also receive two TBSP of BS molasses every watering. The water is tap that measures around 7.5, and is bubbled for at least 24 hours. The nutrients are all mixed in and the PH adjusted, then it is bubbled for at least another 2-3 days. The PH is then checked again, adjusted as needed to around 6-7 (liquid PH tester with color chart), before being used. They are all green and pretty except one or two different phenotypes, in one or two plants only. The rest are vibrant green and they all have nice nuggets on them.

The 3 gallon pots that were only sphagnum peat and perlite originally, were transplanted into 5 gallon pots of a mix of happy frog, light warrior, ocean forest, perlite and about a tablespoon of dolomite lime per gallon of soil. They have been getting fed once a week, no plain watering in between, until this week when they were given excess 1/4 strength nutrients (1/4 recommended on fox farms feeding chart), with a 1TBSP of BS molasses per gallon of water added, as well as hygrozyme, and about half strength recommended dose of superthrive, after transplanting.

The bags were cut away and removed slowly to not damage roots and then were set into the 5 gal bags and the soil filled around the root mass, then watered with the excess 1/4 strength solution. I normally wouldn't transplant during flowering but the grow bags were easy to cut away and the plants were pretty rootbound as they had been vegged for 2-3 months from seed and are now in the 4th week of flowering, so probably growing about 14-15 weeks total.

As I said, only one or two plants is showing this problem, while the rest are rich green, with no visible problems. Two of the more sativa looking phenos are a bit lighter. The heavier sativa phenos were yellowing a bit, but began getting a bit greener since the transplant and 1/4 strength nute feeding/flushing about 3 days ago, and they show no necrosis.

I am not sure if this is a PH problem from the peat with no dolomite lime mixed in, since they had been growing fine in veg and up until this last week of flowering. All plants have been fed the same, but only this one and possibly one more are starting to show anything similar.. The PH of the nute solution to be fed each time had been checked to be between 6-7, but the run off hasn't been checked again since early on with the peat, when the runoff PH was showing between 5-6. I stopped checking the runoff after beginning feeding because they all were growing very healthy. Only the PH of the feeding solution has been checked since, and it has always been between 6-7. I also sprinkled a TBSP of dolomite lime over the top of the soil before watering in the first week of flowering.

It could just be deficient in magnesium, but I have been adding dolomite lime to every feeding (10 tsp per 25 gallon solution), as well as BS molasses at 2 TBSP per gallon, and the rest of FF's line as well as the open sesame, all exactly as the feeding chart says. I started them at 1/2 strength and moved to full strength within the first two weeks and they have seemed to be eating it up, until this one plant started showing the leaf trouble about a week or so ago. I could possibly get webcam pics, but they aren't very crisp. If anyone doesn't understand what I am describing, then I'll try and post a pic.

Thanks in advance for any help. It's only the one plant but she has some chunky colas and I'd hate to affect my yield in a bad way, so I'd like to get on top of this. Not sure whether to feed her more or flush her more, as they have all been getting pretty heavy feeding per FF's feeding schedule, until the 1/4 strength flush a few days ago. What do you think?

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Care Free 1

Active member
Veteran
Some plants are more sensative to PH than others. PH 7 is a little high for many plants, and the lime will take care of other issues, but lime will raise the PH levels also.

I would keep the PH below 6.5 to help this issue.
 

CrookedEye

New member
So simply lowering the PH should be fine? Continue feeding per FF's schedule, just be sure to make the PH around 6-6.5? If it is PH, you think only one or two phenotypes of the same strain would be that much different? They have all been treated the same but only one is doing it, and one more looks like it might be starting, but just barely..
 

Care Free 1

Active member
Veteran
For me it's a classic pattern when PH is up about 7 and the soil is limed. And yes, not all plants will be affected by this, even from the same strain. Some are just more sensative than others, but you could start seeing it more. Thats where I would start, 6.0-6.5 PH to see if that corrects it, and its a simple fix.
 

CrookedEye

New member
Okay, I'm just gonna hold out on all the nutes and hit em with plain PH adjusted water, that will be bubbled for at least 24 hours to remove any chlorine. I adjusted the PH to 6-6.5 and will check it again to make sure before watering. I am gonna try and use 2x the amount of water as the size of the pots, but not sure if I can have enough water to hit em all that hard. I'll do the ones that are showing the trouble first, heavily, and hit the rest with as much as I can, whatever's left over.. If anyone has any other suggestions or tips, I'd love to hear em..

BTW, would a good flush wash out any excess lime (calcium and magnesium) that have built up? Wondering how effective flushing is on each kind of nutrient that could possibly be locked out in the soil? Thanks in advance if anyone knows
 

CrookedEye

New member
I know that dolomite lime breaks down slowly, and so do the crushed oyster shells or whatever that are in fox farm soils, also break down slowly, so I am wondering if the flush will be enough to wash out excess calcium and magnesium? When I hit em with water and test the runoff, if the PH is in the proper range, than it will probably be a nutrient lock out issue, from not doing plain water flushes between feedings, correct?

I really doubt it's a deficiency caused by underfeeding, because I used the regular strength for Fox Farm's feeding schedule, which many claim is more than enough. So, if I figure out it is nutrient lockout, not PH (or maybe a bit of both), I am curious as to how long/many times should I flush with just plain, excessive, PH adjusted water, and when I start to feed again, what strength would you recommend?

I was thinking regular strength big bloom, since it is fully organic, then 1/4 strength beastie blooms, 1 Tbsp per gallon of BS molasses, 1/4 strength tiger bloom, and possibly some hygrozyme. Would these be good, to feed them once or twice more before the final flush for about 2 weeks?

Thanks for any advice.
 

Jedi

"Madam, Miss Otis regrets, she's unable to lunch t
ICMag Donor
if that was my DWC.(it looked like that in the past)

I,ll flush it...!!!.....
and start with light feeding


mine also started yellowing from the centre......NUTE lockout..!
Flushed twice and foilarspray with half nute mix and Epson salt

Mine is recovering after a week ....!!!

but mine is DWC.....
 

Smooth B

Member
Newbies are always entertaining. :bashhead:

Too much bs with your fert solution.

Dolomite lime is not soluble in your fert water. Calcium nitrate and epsom salts is the prefered calcium/mag source for a solution. If you limed your mix, adding calcium and mag is not really needed for maybe a month.

Adding molasses adds alot of potassium. That will stir up a mag def. I bet your fert mix has ample K.

Take the fan off of them. Circulate the area but not blasting the plants.

Use straight water for awhile.

Optimum ph in soilless mix is 5.6 to 6.2

Peace.

Smooth :wave:
 

CaptainHarmonic

New member
That looks kind of like a salt build up. Had a similar problem with the last crop i flowered. Was also using FF nutes, and the salt build up got bad enough to where who knows what all was being locked out - it looked a lot like the pics you posted. Check the top of the soil for orange or white crustiness, and especially whatever holes there are around the bottom of the pots for salty crustiness.

The only way I know of to deal with it is straight up flush action. Flush, then wait 10 minutes to allow salts to dissolve, then flush again to wash em out.
 

CrookedEye

New member
Newbies are always entertaining. :bashhead:
Not new to pot growing, I have been growing off and on for 14 years (hell, had this name here since 2005, just never had to ask questions), I have grown with lots of different nutrient lines (organic and chemical) and this is the only time I've experienced this issue. I have had rooms with 5-10KW for flower and tried a number of strains and nutrient lines. This grow was started with severe budget constraints and everything was purchased as the plants grew, which is why I couldn't set it up ideally like I usually do.

I figure it was because they were not getting a plain water flush between feedings since they were only being fed once a week and full strength, as recommended by fox farm. Also, I didn't add dolomite lime to the mix originally (which was sphagnum and perlite), which is why I added some to the water and as a top dressing. But I am betting a flush with plain old PH adjusted water will be fine. Fox Farm's soils have been used for all the smaller plants and as the transplant mix for the larger plants.

I am guessing it might just be PH, but if not, it could be a slight nute lockout, both of which should be fixed by a plain PH adjusted water flush.. Let ya know how it goes.. Also, it is only on a couple plants in the room, so these are probably particularly sensitive to this issue, as the rest are looking spectacular.
 

CrookedEye

New member
After checking the PH of the runoff, I found that it was up above 7. So the soil was flushed well, with 2x the amount of water as the size of the pot, and the final runoff was coming out at just about 6.5-7. I think it was just a high PH, but we'll see how the plants react.
 

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