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Soil PH Frustrations

JoJoDancer

Member
I'm SICK of this Happy Frog and FFOF bulls---! They claim all these top ingredients but my plants keep getting brown pin dots and rusting. The new growth isn't stunted. Just old fans blotchin, rustin with slight upswing My mix is as simple as can be. In a 3 gal pot I put 2 gal of HF or FF and 1 gal of pro-mix for fluff. The crap is always Ph 8 out of the bag. I've been trying use cider vinegar for an acid boost but it's slow acting. I bought technoflora nitric acid but I'm terrified to used it on my soil babies. Does anyone know of a fool proof soil mix that doesn't envolve a kiddy pool to mix and an ass gambit of amendments. I'm a cheap ass k.i.s.s. kind, who wants to grow more kind, with less stress and less mess.
 

Dr Dog

Sharks have a week dedicated to me
Veteran
When I want to mix up some additives into my soil. I use a 30 gallon rubbermaid tote, a little smaller than a kiddie pool. If you are not doin large amounts, it works well.

Perosnally I use promix HP, worm castings, and whatever else I decide to add. Promix is buffered to 6.5, so alot less than 8
 

felix2

Member
used coffee grinds! great for acidifying soil. good ole grandma taught me that...
i don't know a foolproof mix, but just throw a load on top and water it in.
 
K

KMK0420

i've been using straight FFOF, i knock the pH of my water down from 7/8 closer to 5/6, runoff is around 6/7 i believe...here's one of em..

picture.php
 

ToughGirl

Member
I agree with Dr. Dog, I use Pro-mix as well, but I use Pro-mix Bx. Even though there is dolomite lime in it to begin with, I still add 1 extra TBLspn per gallon of soil. But since I've switched over to Pro-mix (originally used FFOF), my ph has been spot on. I very rarely check ph these days which is really nice. It's cheaper and comes in enormous bails (which I love!). Might be worth a shot to give it a try.
 

FunkBomb

Power Armor rules
Veteran
Ocean Forest is a rip off, plain and simple. Do you want an inexpensive and completely effective soil mix. Go to Lowes and buy this:

1 bag of Sta-Green Tree and Shrub/Nursery Mix
1 bag of Perilite (they usually only have Miracle Grow brand)
- Mix at a 5:1 (soil:perilite)

Want to see proof of how well it works? These buds got that above soil with Pure Blend Pro Bloom + Grow, Liquid Karma, and Cal Mag:

9990flowerday54.jpg


-Funk
 

felix2

Member
just a note, which i wasn't aware of at first, the miracle grow perlite is fortified with an NPK ratio. not alot, but it is fertilized...
 

hkush

Member
just a note, which i wasn't aware of at first, the miracle grow perlite is fortified with an NPK ratio. not alot, but it is fertilized...

Exactly why I refuse to buy it. The hydro store carries good, large, non Miracle Grow poisoned perlite.
 

hkush

Member
I'm SICK of this Happy Frog and FFOF bulls---! They claim all these top ingredients but my plants keep getting brown pin dots and rusting. The new growth isn't stunted. Just old fans blotchin, rustin with slight upswing My mix is as simple as can be. In a 3 gal pot I put 2 gal of HF or FF and 1 gal of pro-mix for fluff. The crap is always Ph 8 out of the bag. I've been trying use cider vinegar for an acid boost but it's slow acting. I bought technoflora nitric acid but I'm terrified to used it on my soil babies. Does anyone know of a fool proof soil mix that doesn't envolve a kiddy pool to mix and an ass gambit of amendments. I'm a cheap ass k.i.s.s. kind, who wants to grow more kind, with less stress and less mess.

Dolomite lime has a ph of 7 (neutral). So adding it to a 8.0 mix should bring it down just as well as adding it to an acid soil would bring the ph up. (just a wild guess there)

Fish fertilizer is pretty acidic too. I'd use some of that for a couple feedings and check it again.
 
K

KMK0420

Ocean Forest is a rip off, plain and simple. Do you want an inexpensive and completely effective soil mix. Go to Lowes and buy this:

1 bag of Sta-Green Tree and Shrub/Nursery Mix
1 bag of Perilite (they usually only have Miracle Grow brand)
- Mix at a 5:1 (soil:perilite)

Want to see proof of how well it works? These buds got that above soil with Pure Blend Pro Bloom + Grow, Liquid Karma, and Cal Mag:

9990flowerday54.jpg


-Funk

we will soon see! in about 45 days i'll PM you with pics of how mine did in straight FFOF.
 

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
hmm...

hmm...

I'm SICK of this Happy Frog and FFOF bulls---! They claim all these top ingredients but my plants keep getting brown pin dots and rusting. The new growth isn't stunted. Just old fans blotchin, rustin with slight upswing My mix is as simple as can be. In a 3 gal pot I put 2 gal of HF or FF and 1 gal of pro-mix for fluff. The crap is always Ph 8 out of the bag. I've been trying use cider vinegar for an acid boost but it's slow acting. I bought technoflora nitric acid but I'm terrified to used it on my soil babies. Does anyone know of a fool proof soil mix that doesn't envolve a kiddy pool to mix and an ass gambit of amendments. I'm a cheap ass k.i.s.s. kind, who wants to grow more kind, with less stress and less mess.

What kinda nutes are you feeding them with?

Let's say for the sake of argument the PH does start at 8. That would mean the humus and the micro bacteria in the soil -must- be buffering yer PH enough for the plant to still eat and get big enough in order for there to be "older" leaves, right? But here's the thing, the longer a plant grows in a container the more the PH of the soil will drop from the micro critters doin there thing making natural acids. So by the time yer plants are older and showing those deficienies the PH would no longer be at 8, it would be lower. Not to mention cutting it with pro mix would lower the PH from the start.

I've used FF soils for years and fed with about every kind of organic nute made, including my own teas. I know very well that the PH of many of those nutes were not in the correct PH range, but my plants always thrive, as long as it's well balanced in with nutrients. The humates and micro critters will take care of the PH.

NO offence JoJo, but I think yer problem may be somethin else? That's why I asked about yer nutes. later, BC
 

magiccannabus

Next Stop: Outer Space!
Veteran
I used to have pH problems, I used to have spots on the leaves from nutrient problems. Now I only have problems when they get root bound. Why? Organics! The big secret is to use organic mediums and water with dechlorinated water. Depending on where you live you'll need to either filter the water, leave it sit for a day or two, bubble it with an airstone, or maybe you'll even just decide to buy water(though this is absurdly expensive comparatively). Once the chlorine was gone, I noticed immediate improvements in my garden. Struggling plants suddenly turned around and became totally healthy. If you use chlorine you're killing your micro herd whenever you water. Maybe not killing them completely, but enough to cause issues. Organic medium is not enough, good water makes a big difference too. As does dolomite lime. I never check my pH anymore. I don't need to. My microbes make sure it's all good.
 
S

sparkjumper

Yea I'm having a problem getting around needing extra acidity when you're using promix in your mix.When I used promix I always needed dolomite lime with it otherwise in flower my soil ph would become too low.When in doubt about soil ph,a teaspoon dolomite per gallon soil should do the trick.If you're still having issues I'll bet they arent ph issues
 

JoJoDancer

Member
I understand an outdoor farmers use of lime. My thinking must be wrong about lime. I thought it was used to raise the ph of acidic soil. The soil I've been using all says it has lime added, plus I thought it takes lime 4 to 6 months to activate. SO what good is it to add lime to a supposed limed in advance soil with a high ph, when the plant is only going to flower in that pot for 65 days or so?

I confess I haven't invested in a dechlorination device yet. That may very well be part of the problem. I use tap, and it's not bad tasting so I'm sure it's full of microbe killers.

I swear I'm starting to think these soil people and nute people are in cahoots. Why buy a bag of soil if you have to buy all the individual ingredients that should be already be in there. Am I giving my plants a placebo?

Again I pretty sure I'm not far off . It's a micro dif for sure. Fast growing green and healthy, with brown pin head spots between veins on older fans with a slight rusting.
 

ToughGirl

Member
I understand an outdoor farmers use of lime. My thinking must be wrong about lime. I thought it was used to raise the ph of acidic soil. The soil I've been using all says it has lime added, plus I thought it takes lime 4 to 6 months to activate. SO what good is it to add lime to a supposed limed in advance soil with a high ph, when the plant is only going to flower in that pot for 65 days or so?

I confess I haven't invested in a dechlorination device yet. That may very well be part of the problem. I use tap, and it's not bad tasting so I'm sure it's full of microbe killers.

I swear I'm starting to think these soil people and nute people are in cahoots. Why buy a bag of soil if you have to buy all the individual ingredients that should be already be in there. Am I giving my plants a placebo?

Again I pretty sure I'm not far off . It's a micro dif for sure. Fast growing green and healthy, with brown pin head spots between veins on older fans with a slight rusting.

I don't use a dechlorinator either. But I do have a pretty big water reserve with bubblers in it. I fill it 1-2 times a week a few days before I water. It really does help.

Powdered dolomite lime works immediately. If you put some water on it, it instantly turns white. It's that pellitized stuff that takes a while. It does raise low ph, but it also stabilizes most soil ph. I've never had high ph in my life, so I've never added it to lower it. I guess it would work, but it's better to start with it in the soil, and avoid those problems all together. Especially since it's $6 for 50lbs! And at a TBLspn per gallon, it lasts a long long time. It's really worth it, I assure you. I very rarely check ph anymore.

As for the soil needing added ingredients, that's true. But most soils aren't designed exclusively for MJ. The reason I use Pro-mix is because we use it at my greenhouse. I have a friend that owns an enormous greenhouse(s) and a garden centre, I started buying it through him since that's what they use (and he sells it in bulk), but I was using FFOF for my special plants. I was so impressed with Pro-mix BX that I switched. I don't mind adding a TBLspn of lime per gallon, lime is really really cheap. Slowly but surely I figured out (through trial and error) how to mix my medium exactly the way my plants like it, and also how to keep the ph in the 6's. I mix so much fertilizers in that I only have to give vegging plants nutes maybe once or twice, and I veg them to death. In my opinion, the soil is the most important part of the grow. If your soil is really mixed correctly, you will use half the products, and your nutes (regardless if they are Advanced, FF, or miracle grow) will actually do their job. So many people on these forums get so wrapped up in the name game that they don't realize it can be done much cheaper. Unless I'm buying another light, mylar, or something special, I avoid hydro shoppes and their overpriced products. $150 for nutes for one grow, and $25 for a bag of soil? I think not. They're like pot pimps.

One final thought, when you water, make sure you water the hell out of them. Soak them until there is really good run-off. If you do it through the entire grow, it stops lots of little problems. People are so worried about over watering that they don't do it. Personally I believe lots of problems are caused by simple product build up. If you can avoid all of that to begin with it makes life much easier.
 

Jnugg

Active member
Veteran
I was using Jungle Growth potting mix.All I did was add 1-2tbs per gallon of fine powdered dolimitic lime.I fill my gallon water jugs with water from the R/O water machine at walgreens ($0.25/gallon).When feeding I add al my nutes 1 by 1,mix well and take a pH reading.If need be I correct my water/nute mix to a pH of 6.5-7.0 as FF's Tiger Bloom is known for dropping your pH to about 4.0 (I believe thats the pH of the TB aswell).

I was thinking of trying FFOF or some Pro-Mix next run.If I do the Pro-Mix I'll be adding worm castings and a little extra perlite.Also if I go Pro-Mix I'll probably be doing the Pro-Mix HP (I hate vermiculite unless shroom growing) as I like to water more frequently then less frequently (helps cut back on root rot and stunted growth).

I have yet to do a 100% organic soil grow ie;soil/soiless mix with blood/bone meals and other goodies worked in.I'd like to some day but I'll need to work out a recipe of how much of what to how much of this to be sure Iam not using too much (it would be a waste) and to figure how long my plants will be in flower etc.
 

magiccannabus

Next Stop: Outer Space!
Veteran
Jnugg, my current mix is:

10 parts coco coir
4 parts Pro-Mix
4 parts mushroom compost(not all mushroom compost is equal or organic! Worm castings are safer)
1 part manure & humus
1 part fine clay(from a local kitty litter supplier)
1-1.5 tbsp per gallon Espoma "Flower-Tone"
1-2 tbsp per gallon bone meal
1 tbsp dolomite lime per gallon

I don't pH, I don't feed much beyond that. Just sometimes I put some good food sources in my compost tea. This mix is very rich and all the plants in it seem to be doing great. Even if I half-ass the amounts, I still never have burned my plants with organic foods. You shouldn't wait around forever for the perfect mix. Organics is easy, more sustainable, and tolerant of mistakes. Unlike chemicals if you double the amounts, you are unlikely to burn any plants
 

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