What's new

FLEAS on my TREES

T

Trillyen

Member
OK, i got this bubble bucket, and some plants sitting in a rubber maid 10 gallon bucket

5 sites on it, all full

they are in hydroton, and im starting to see fleas get in my hydroton balls, and maybe be trying to reat the roots.

What Can I DO For This Please, here me cry, lol i wanna get rid of it, them bad!!!
 
L

lysol

you could try sterilizing em with h2o2 or try one of those organic mixes, theres a bunch I think they use like onion water and stuff, if that doesnt work you could spray garden safe pesticide on the balls
 
T

Trillyen

Member
lysol said:
you could try sterilizing em with h2o2 or try one of those organic mixes, theres a bunch I think they use like onion water and stuff, if that doesnt work you could spray garden safe pesticide on the balls
Click to expand...

sounds easy enough, I think the fleas are eating my roots or something and its driving me crazy man.so if I do spray m HYDROTON does it have to be out of my bubble bucket or can it get into my water? thanks man
 
Toad

Toad

Member
try h2o2 as lysol says. It will be fine if it gets in your water as it will add oxygen to your water....

Check out the infirmary forums and see if you recognize any of the pests pictures. It may or may not be fleas.
 
Storm Crow

Storm Crow

Active member
Veteran
Are you sure they are fleas? Fleas eat blood, not roots. Try some "Garden Safe Fruit and Vegetable Insect Killer" - you can get it at most garden stores and Walmart. It SAYS it is safe to use up to the day of harvest, but I'd stop using it at least a week before harvest.
 
♥Mo♥

♥Mo♥

Member
Never heard of fleas on cannabis before. I have seen little black/brown hard shelled bugs that look similar to fleas, I believe they may be weevils. As said earlier check in the infirmary. A wealth of information there. good luck. :joint:
 
Mist

Mist

Member
LOL, those aren't fleas! They are fungus gnats. Fungus gnats are attracted by the moisture and they lay their eggs in the hydroton down by the roots. The larva that hatches live in the moist zone around the roots and feed on algae and your roots too.
The adults don't do any damage to the plants though. You need to get some "Gnat stix" or other type of yellow sticky traps to do away with them. For the larva you will need to treat with Gnatrol. It will kill the larva over a couple days. I have had them many times, usually only in the summer, and athey are easy to erradicate.
Once you get some Gnatrol you will just mix up a batch at a rate of 1/3 cup for 3 gallons of water. Then you use a cup to pour it over the hydroton in the net pot making sure to soak it well. Do this twice a day for 3 days and if you have the adults under control you will have no more problems. Till the next time that is, LOL!
It is just one of the things that you will deal with off and on while growing indoors.

Oh yea, after you have treated for 3 days with the Gnatrol you will want to flush to waste your whole system and refill with fresh nutrients.
 
Tinytoon

Tinytoon

Member
hey Tril I just read about this too lol. Bayer Tree and Shrub from home depot. there is a post on this site in Hydro section that talks about fungus gnats in hydrotron and that is where the Bayer Tree and Shrub comes from. Read the bottle label and looks safe, can be used on fruit trees like apple and such so wont kill ya if eaten fruit from a treated tree..... thats a good thing. can also be used as a preventative. buying mine this weekend and adding with water change. http://icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=129102 there is the link hehe
 
T

Trillyen

Member
LOL, yea maybe they aint fleas but they dont look white so i dont think they are white flys

maybe nats i think

what ever they are i would love to get rid of them

i got that yellow stick paper thats helping alot

but i wanna get ALL of them so im thinking that H202

but what is that

hydrogen peroxcide or what

thanks for the help its really appreciated!!!
 
Mist

Mist

Member
Hydrogen peroxide isn't going to kill the larva. You need Gnatrol or something simular to do that. I personally don't like mosquito dunks because the ingretients aren't rated for use with consumable foods. Meaning that you are putting poison in your plants that will be smoked later. But they are very popular because they are cheap and do the job.

**"Product Description
Mosquito dunks float on water and will keep on working for 30 days or longer under typical environmental conditions. While floating, they slowly release a long-term, biological mosquito larvicide at the water's surface. This larvicide gradually settles in the water where it is eaten by mosquito larvae growing there. Mosquito Dunks may be used in all types of standing water sites where mosquito larvae grow. Alternate wetting and drying will not reduce their effectiveness.DirectionsUse one Mosquito Dunk for up to 100 square feet of water surface, regardless of depth. They can be used whole or broken into portions and applied to containerized standing water found near the home such as animal watering troughs, bird baths, flower pots, roof gutters, and water gardens. To prevent them from being washed away, the Dunks can be anchored using a string tied through the center hole, or they can be staked in place. Warning:Hazards to Humans: Avoid contact with eyes or open wounds.Environmental Hazards: Do not apply directly to treated, finished drinking water reservoirs or drinking water receptacles when the water is intended for human consumption. "*

Hmmmmmm, that last part kind of makes you think eh??!~!
 
T

Trillyen

Member
Mist said:
Hydrogen peroxide isn't going to kill the larva. You need Gnatrol or something simular to do that. I personally don't like mosquito dunks because the ingretients aren't rated for use with consumable foods. Meaning that you are putting poison in your plants that will be smoked later. But they are very popular because they are cheap and do the job.

**"Product Description
Mosquito dunks float on water and will keep on working for 30 days or longer under typical environmental conditions. While floating, they slowly release a long-term, biological mosquito larvicide at the water's surface. This larvicide gradually settles in the water where it is eaten by mosquito larvae growing there. Mosquito Dunks may be used in all types of standing water sites where mosquito larvae grow. Alternate wetting and drying will not reduce their effectiveness.DirectionsUse one Mosquito Dunk for up to 100 square feet of water surface, regardless of depth. They can be used whole or broken into portions and applied to containerized standing water found near the home such as animal watering troughs, bird baths, flower pots, roof gutters, and water gardens. To prevent them from being washed away, the Dunks can be anchored using a string tied through the center hole, or they can be staked in place. Warning:Hazards to Humans: Avoid contact with eyes or open wounds.Environmental Hazards: Do not apply directly to treated, finished drinking water reservoirs or drinking water receptacles when the water is intended for human consumption. "*

Hmmmmmm, that last part kind of makes you think eh??!~!
Click to expand...


Ok thanks for all the LINKS and the help, but i still do not know what H202 is, is that what i ask for in the pesticide section

i would like to do something organic like the onion sparay some one mentioned, i want my garden to stay natural

its like today i see no gnats at all on my crop but its kinda chilly hear today, it might stay that way, hopefully they stay gone

thanks for the help!!!
 
Mist

Mist

Member
The easiest way to check for them is to shuffle arount the top layer of hydroton and look for them running around in there. You can also give the plants a little shake. That usually gets them flying around if they are there.

H2O2 is hydrogen peroxide. And what you find at the hydroponics store is usually the techinical grade (30% strength) and not the stuff that you put on cuts and scrapes (3%).
It will add oxygen to the plants if mixed with the nutrients at a low rate and is good for cleaning out your hydro system at higher rates. Never used it for bug control thoough, but I do have some nasty scars on my forehead from when I was useing it to clean out a cloner at a rate of 25ml per gallon and it got sprayed on me when I tipped up the cloner lid to make sure it was spraying right. I rinsed off my face immediatly but it had gotten in my hair and while I was outside sweating it ran down by forehead and onto my eyelid. It burned the hell out of me and I spent a week layed up with my forhead swollen up 3/4" and my eye swollen shut.

So be carefull with that stuff!!
 
Tinytoon

Tinytoon

Member
can the Gnatrol just be added to res and let the system run it for a week then flush and refill fresh? I run an E&F system with 6 gal res.
 
Mist

Mist

Member
Yes it can, just add the recomended strength for a light infestation and let it run for a few days and drain. I just got through doing that myself. I actually soaked the sites by hand in between flood cycles and added the rest of the 5 gallon bucket of Gnatrol mixture to the main resovior and let it run for 3 days and they were all gone. The fungus gnat has a short life span of about 3 days so that kills off the larva and also kills future eggs while the adults die off.
 
Mist

Mist

Member
Most hydroponic stores carry it. Some high end garden centers will also carry it since it is also used in soil applications.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Latest posts

Exquisite Marijuana Seeds Hemp & CBD | Cannoptikum.
Top