About to begin building RDWC. Some last questions.

[njayjay]

Hi, I am about to build a RDWC setup using blazeoneup's guide from this forum. Here it is http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=26343

I plan on running 9 buckets, 5 gallon size, under 1200w of light.

I was wondering how large my controller bucket needs to be for these 9 5-gal buckets, and also how big the res should be, and what kind of pump I need.
I also want to know if I can run the pump on a timer (I would prefer to) and in what length intervals.

I'll be filling the res. directly with the nutrient solution throughout the grow, using RO water and a single, all-purpose formula. I'm wondering what kind of PH/EC fluctuations I can expect using this method and how to adjust them, considering the res will contain feeding solution, not plain ph-adjusted water.

This brings me to the question how often should I change out the reservoir, and how exactly is the process of doing so carried out?
Do I need to run some straight water through the system to get rid of leftover minerals, once i've emptied everything?

I've also heard the root growth can become really invasive in these RDWC systems so I'm wondering how to prevent clogging.

I'm also not so clear on the flushing part. Do I need to flush every few weeks when using DWC, or just near the end?

I also want to know if I should top/train/SCROG for better yields. My strains will be C99 and Jack Herer grown side by side (similar genetics). I'm thinking of topping at the very least.

I think that's all for now, I appreciate the replies. Thanks in advance.

 

[SpoCannabis]

Hey njayjay, nice choice of setups!!

If it were me, I would still use the 18gal controller - even for as low as 6-8 buckets. You would be just fine with a 25-35gal rez, depending on how long you want to be able to go before adding nute mix. You will need at least a 160gph pump; I would also run it 24/7 - keeping the system constantly circulating. Is there a particular reason why you want to have it on a timer??

As far as your TDS readings and such - make all your tests at the controller, and double check back with 5gals for consistency. With your system, you could probably just fill with nute mix and have your rez full of plain RO water during veg. 1/2 strength during bloom.

For me personally, I rarely flush the system. Once at the switch between Veg - Bloom, and then again at the end of harvest. I like to connect the pump to a drain, allowing it to suck the majority of the water out of the system, the re-connect and fill with plain water. I like to let my system cycle for bout an hr to clean shit out... then repeat the draining process.

As far as roots...yes, they are very massive; however, I have never had problems with root clog, and typically i have root MONSTERS lol. If you follow blaze's advice and use the E&F screens, you wont have any problems.

And topping/training/SCROG, etc is all based on personal preference and the size/profile and other limitations of your grow room..


Good luck, hope this helps!!

 

[njayjay]

That certainly helps Spo. I want to run the pump on a timer to save electricity and to keep water temps down. Honestly the less I can run it the better. If I can recirculate the whole thing once an hour it should be good enough I think.

One thing I'm not clear on is where should I mix the nutes if the res is filled with plain water? Right inside the controller? Wouldn't I have to wait for it to recirculate throughout all the buckets and keep adjusting over time to dial in the right PH and TDS readings if i did it that way?

Peace

 

[SpoCannabis]

Ok, I definitely understand your thinking, however the amount of power used by the water pump is VERY minimal. We're talking about 10-15 watts - virtually nothing. Not to mention that with a pump that small, it wont emit very much heat at all. But, if you still choose to put it on a timer, I would cycle the system for bout 10-15 mins every 1-3hrs...prolly could do it less, but the less that water moves, the more conducive it is for bacteria, algae, etc....

Yeah, I do everything at my controller... adjustments, etc. Good Luck

 

[Mickymouse]

I just built one a couple months ago.I have a few more buckets.A few changes I would make to the plan I would upgrade to 1" drain hose.I had trouble with slow return and buckets flooding.For the controler get a good one rubbermaids are to flimsly.I got one like this at Lowes but it had a solid yellow top. get yourself a chiller It will save you alot of headaces and lost plants.The water curculates pretty slow so not sure if you could cycle it or not.

http://www.jttintl.com/products-storage-container.htm

 

[SpoCannabis]

A few changes I would make to the plan I would upgrade to 1" drain hose.I had trouble with slow return and buckets flooding.

Check your lines and connections - I have been building these style systems for a couple yrs now and never once had a problem using 3/4" line; UNLESS it was clogged or crimped...

 

[Mickymouse]

I was using a 396 gph pump for 10 buckets 1/4 " feed lines.My lines might have been slightly bent or somthing I guess.Is this the right size pump for 10 buckets 4 buckets per drain line.

 

[Two12sKnockin]

Hi, I am about to build a RDWC setup using blazeoneup's guide from this forum. Here it is http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=26343

I plan on running 9 buckets, 5 gallon size, under 1200w of light.

I was wondering how large my controller bucket needs to be for these 9 5-gal buckets, and also how big the res should be, and what kind of pump I need.
I also want to know if I can run the pump on a timer (I would prefer to) and in what length intervals.

I run 6 buckets per light. I think 4.5 is quite minimal. I would not go under 6 unless it was a particularly bushy/vigorous strain, OR unless you're worried about plant count (I am a prop 215 medical patient in full compliance)

I use 40-45 gal rubermaid for the rez and its fine. 5 gallon bucket is fine for control.

I'll be filling the res. directly with the nutrient solution throughout the grow, using RO water and a single, all-purpose formula. I'm wondering what kind of PH/EC fluctuations I can expect using this method and how to adjust them, considering the res will contain feeding solution, not plain ph-adjusted water.

fluctuation in nutrient content will vary based on situation. if you are not feeding them enough, you'll see the PPM go down as they're eating more. With this, usually the PH will rise. However, if you see PPM rise and PH drop, this is usually indicitive that they are drinking more than they are eating, thus your PPM is too high.

This brings me to the question how often should I change out the reservoir, and how exactly is the process of doing so carried out?
Do I need to run some straight water through the system to get rid of leftover minerals, once i've emptied everything?

I dont run str8 water to get rid of old minerals myself. I'd call that borderling obsessive compulsive (though hey I'm not a hater I respect going every extra mile you can as long as its not detrimental). as far as how often to change... most people do it weekly. I do it every other week usually. depends on the need, really... hungry strain? remix more often. Doesnt like to eat much? remix every other week. do NOT let it sit more than 2 or so weeks because then its eating certain minerals and will be deprived of them.

I've also heard the root growth can become really invasive in these RDWC systems so I'm wondering how to prevent clogging.

its simple: ebb and flow fittings with screens. the screen prevents clogging. I recommend using 3/4". look at blaze1ups I have been doing this for years and I still rebuilt my system after reading his tutorial.

I'm also not so clear on the flushing part. Do I need to flush every few weeks when using DWC, or just near the end?

flush only for 1 week max at the end. I dont usually flush at ALL and people easily mistake my product for pure organic etc etc... you feed it right you dont need to flush as much. rookie and uncertain? flush a week and use clearex + water.

I also want to know if I should top/train/SCROG for better yields. My strains will be C99 and Jack Herer grown side by side (similar genetics). I'm thinking of topping at the very least.

I think that's all for now, I appreciate the replies. Thanks in advance.

You will want to top those 2 strains. If you're serious about 4.5 plants per 1000 then scrog (I do NOT recommend that - its less forgiving for a noob and if you fuck up on feeding etc you will feel the loss of 1 plant more than you would with higher plant count)

peace, feel free to PM if you have questions, I wouldnt know shit if it wasnt for OG (R.I.P.) so I am happy to help noobs.

anyone who tells you they were never a noob is in denial


oh and yes if you do it right the roots will fill the buckets

water temp is a big deal I suggest getting a chiller if you can afford it - also dont skimp on air supply AT ALL

 

[njayjay]

sup Two12s, thanks for those replies. I am actually not running 2 600w's, but 3 400w's. I'm gonna have 12 plants total but 3 of them will not be connected to the rDWC, they'll be regular DWC and with different strains.

I've heard 3gal buckets will get the job done just as well as 5gals, and is cheaper since you need both less nutes and the buckets themselves cost less. Can anyone corroborate this? Or does the rooth growth become quite large in 5gals as it is??

Air supply should be plentiful, the plants will be in an empty bedroom with open windows.

Also where you say:

fluctuation in nutrient content will vary based on situation. if you are not feeding them enough, you'll see the PPM go down as they're eating more. With this, usually the PH will rise. However, if you see PPM rise and PH drop, this is usually indicitive that they are drinking more than they are eating, thus your PPM is too high.

When any of this happens, do you add more water/nutrients/adjust ph in the controller bucket or just leave it and wait for a res change?

Thx in advance.

 

[Mickymouse]

When he said air flow I think he ment the air stones.Should have one in each bucket.I have a 20 bucket and have to run two large ones of these. Im sure 3 gal buckets will work but you will be happer with the 5 gal.Go to Homedepot cheapest place for buckets and lids.Get a hole saw(rent one if cant afford to buy)cut holes for net pots or DYI ones.I know there is sticker shock on RDWC when setting up but its well worth paying first and not having to redo.I found out that the hard way.I run differnt strains in my RDWC with no problem.I just set my EC @ 1.4 and there all happy.I check my PH,EC every couple days and adjust as needed.

http://www.4hydroponics.com/grow_room/cgairpump.asp

 

[Two12sKnockin]

bro honestly my advice is scrap the 3 buckets not connected. If you want variety add a few soil girls if they all cant hang on the same nutrient feeding profile.. my humble opinion is standalone dwc (not linked to rez or recirced) is asking for a pain in the ass, high maintenance, etc.

3 gal buckets vs 5 man if you're worried about saving money on nutes with 3 gal vs 5 you should reconisder if dwc is right for you. its such a small difference. dwc is certainly more expensive than soil but if you cant afford to do it right soil can yield better. spoken from a true dwc believer, too. its EASILY worth it to go to 5 gal buckets man root space is basically equivalent to yield. more roots = more weight! all day!


wait what do you mean the window is open?? how do you light proof to provide 12/12 etc? what about pests, both insect and neighborly? that sounds like a major potential security breech man unless I am missing something?

 

[njayjay]

Ok, I definitely understand your thinking, however the amount of power used by the water pump is VERY minimal. We're talking about 10-15 watts - virtually nothing. Not to mention that with a pump that small, it wont emit very much heat at all. But, if you still choose to put it on a timer, I would cycle the system for bout 10-15 mins every 1-3hrs...prolly could do it less, but the less that water moves, the more conducive it is for bacteria, algae, etc....

Yeah, I do everything at my controller... adjustments, etc. Good Luck

How do you reach your desired TDS and Ph levels when you mix at the controller? Do you calculate a certain amount of nutes for the total amount of gallons in your system and just dump them in, or slowly add nutes/ph adjuster into the controller over time and wait for it to recirculate through the buckets to stabilize the readings? I just don't quite get the process of mixing at the controller, can you explain a little more? I wanted to just have my res full of feeding solution for simplicity, so I can dial in the readings at the res and be done with it but maybe if mixing at the controller isn't such a hassle I can do that instead.

 

[sackoweed]

Id say if ya follow blaewun ya cant go wrong he is the MAN... peace..

sack

 

[Asil]

Whe you are mixing at you controller you need to know how long it take to recirc the water out of you controller. For me I add my micro in then wait about five minutes, then add my bloom in. Let that recirc for five minutes then check ph. Adjust ph, once you know your system you will know how low to set ph in controller, for me I set mine at about 4.5 then let it recirc when it settle down it is around 5.2-5.4 right where I want it. It is all about how big of a pump you use.

 

[njayjay]

Thanks for the info there im gonna be running some tests for sure to see how that works out

Also what do u use for ph up and down? Does the stuff from the pool supply store work?

peace

 

[Asil]

I use all General Hydroponics stuff. I don't know about any thing for pools.

 

[njayjay]

How do you know how much nutes to add, do you estimate the amount based on the capacity of your system? How many times do you have to repeat the process to get the desired TDS throughout the system?

 

[Asil]

It depends on the nutes you are using. I use the lucas formula and GH nutes. Very simple method and there are a ton of threads on this method. Just search for it. Hydro-Soil has wrote a very good thread recently about it.

 

[narutonut]

When I build a new system the first thing I do once it is set up is fill it one 5 gal bucket at a time them I know how much water. then do the math. Just remember to account for the fact you are using DWC as you need a lower ppm for optimal growth and higher ppm (1100+) generally hurts plants in dwc.

For my flowering system I mix 40 gal water with
1 cup GH flora bloom
0.5 cup GH flora micro
0.25 cup GH flora grow
0.5 cup Sweet
0.5 cup GH Diamond Nectar (just started this product as liquid karma and floralicious + muddied the hell outta my system and I'm a clean freak and I still like Humic acids in my systems)
0.5 cup liquid GH Kool bloom
.5 cup Aquashield

This mix plus my tap water runs at 1050ppm and really doest the trick in DWC. I will say if you want pure ease of use the Lucas formula for GH is great but for me I like to tinker and Lucas is boring. to each their own.

 

[njayjay]

When I build a new system the first thing I do once it is set up is fill it one 5 gal bucket at a time them I know how much water. then do the math. Just remember to account for the fact you are using DWC as you need a lower ppm for optimal growth and higher ppm (1100+) generally hurts plants in dwc.

For my flowering system I mix 40 gal water with
1 cup GH flora bloom
0.5 cup GH flora micro
0.25 cup GH flora grow
0.5 cup Sweet
0.5 cup GH Diamond Nectar (just started this product as liquid karma and floralicious + muddied the hell outta my system and I'm a clean freak and I still like Humic acids in my systems)
0.5 cup liquid GH Kool bloom
.5 cup Aquashield

This mix plus my tap water runs at 1050ppm and really doest the trick in DWC. I will say if you want pure ease of use the Lucas formula for GH is great but for me I like to tinker and Lucas is boring. to each their own.

1000 ppm is that what you keep your res at throughout the whole grow? Or just during flowering?