adding a 240v outlet

[fatcat666]

ok, i searched but its tough narrow down the terms "adding" and "outlet" to anything meaningful to my application

I've got a room with all 120v plugs. Out the door and down the hall is a washer/dryer with a 40amp plugin. I was simply going to get rid of the washer/dryer and plugin one of those CAP controller boards to give me a bunch of 240v plugins and mount it right there in the hallway. But I got to thinking, I'm at my location for awhile and don't mind investing a bit in a more concealed room so when i bring hoors back i dont have to explain what the massive controller board on the wall is and why my washer and dryer are sitting in the middle of the hallway.

The breaker box itself is 100amps max and is right outside the planned grow room, literally on the other side of the wall of a closet thats in the grow room.

Does the electrician have to rip up walls or anything like that to run a new outlet to my room? i was hoping that since the breaker is right beside the grow room, that it would be really easy for him and wouldn't require cutting up walls.


finally, what kind of receptacle and related details should i ask for? Should i ask him to put a 240v receptacle in there? or a dryer plug? or a range plug? (maybe dumb i know but im pretty new at this electrical stuff. i usually just move a stove and plug in a CAP controller on a stove plug and go from there but the kitchen is really far away and i need to use the stove to eat)

 

[Philosophelon]

For lights, the easiest is to have him hardwire in a 40A mechanical timer (or two if you'll also have a veg room) that controls several 240V receptacles, into which you plug your ballasts. Then you set the timer to the appropriate photoperiod, and it activates and deactivates the outlets as set.

If you don't know your electrician, though, installing timers on a dryer circuit is suspicious as hell. I'd just have him install a new 30A 240V receptacle, and maybe disconnect the old one (leave the cable in case you have to put it back). Then you can purchase a power expander with a relay/a high-amperage timer box/etc., and plug it into that receptacle. Just be sure not to overload the timer/receptacle/circuit/etc.

Also, no, he won't need to rip out walls or anything. He'll just snake cable through existing walls. He probably have to cut a few holes, but that's it. If your room is that close to the main panel, it will probably be very quick and easy.

 

[fatcat666]

For lights, the easiest is to have him hardwire in a 40A mechanical timer (or two if you'll also have a veg room) that controls several 240V receptacles, into which you plug your ballasts. Then you set the timer to the appropriate photoperiod, and it activates and deactivates the outlets as set.

If you don't know your electrician, though, installing timers on a dryer circuit is suspicious as hell. I'd just have him install a new 30A 240V receptacle, and maybe disconnect the old one (leave the cable in case you have to put it back). Then you can purchase a power expander with a relay/a high-amperage timer box/etc., and plug it into that receptacle. Just be sure not to overload the timer/receptacle/circuit/etc.

Also, no, he won't need to rip out walls or anything. He'll just snake cable through existing walls. He probably have to cut a few holes, but that's it. If your room is that close to the main panel, it will probably be very quick and easy.

Thanks for the info. So the first option you mention, is simply re-routing the dryer outlet into my room and then plug in a mechanical timer board with a dryer 40amp plug. I'd prefer to keep the use of my washer and dryer and keep them where they are at, and by this setup, it sounds like it wouldn't be possible to run the lights and the washer/dryer at the same time.

And the second option you mention is installing a new receptacle in the room, off of my 30amp stove / range circuit (i assume you mean the stove circuit because they are usually 30 amps, right?) please correct me if im wrong. Then you say to "disconnect the old one". I'm not sure why you'd have to (to avoid overloading the circuit in case you use the stove while lights are on?) but if that means not being able to use my stove i'd prefer not to.

isn't it possible for him just to put in a new 30 or 40 amp circuit on 240v without affecting any of the other circuits? I was under the impression that the electrical main's total amperage (ie. 100amps in my case) doesn't dictate how many separate circuits you can have (what i mean is you could have 20 seperate 15 amp circuits but only have a main breaker capable of supporting 100amps in use at once maxed out) is that correct? obviously my basic understanding of electrical is low but im trying to get a grasp of it so i dont sound like a total stoner when i call the electrician.

i live there, hence my focus on making everything clean and stealth and still retaining the ability to use my major appliances (obviously keeping in mind total draw on the 100amp main, but what i mean is that i dont want to have to unplug my washer/dryer, stove etc. , rather, just to be mindful of what appliances i use during lights on) if i wasnt living there i would just move the stove and the washer/dryer and just plug in the respective controller boards into those and not bother calling anyone in but unfortunately thats not the case for this location.

thanks for your help , id appreciate any further input and clarifications you could offer

 

[madpenguin]

What kind of CAP controller do you have? Can you post a link to it or atleast say what it is rated for amp wise?

 

[fatcat666]

What kind of CAP controller do you have? Can you post a link to it or atleast say what it is rated for amp wise?

im actually not using the CAP products but i use identical units put together by someone i know for a bit cheaper. i just said CAP to simplify things.

im not using one right now but ive used a 40 amp one for a range (or was it 30 for the range? cant remember). i can just replace the plug with a 30 amp dryer/washer (or 40 if ive got them mixed up) if i was using a dryer plugin, but like i said im trying to avoid using the dryer circuit in order to keep the use of my dryer. ill just get whatever made up for whatever type of plug the electrician can put in for the least suspicion. if he puts in a straight 240v receptacle thatd be fine too, im not constrained by equipment

 

[sparkjumper]

I have to agree with Philo as the "little gray box" 240V hot water heater timer is the best thing going for HID fixtures.And yes if you have room in the panel I would just run another circuit.It sounds to me like the panel is on the other side of the wall of where you want to mount your timer?That would be very easy.Electricians arent normally too nosy about loads if you are specific about what you want and what you want doesnt violate the code or common sense lol.Hell just tell him you're fixing to do a lot of construction inside and you are relocating your hot water heater.I run a 10 wire 240V circuit to a little gray box and from the timer to a 4 inch sq box holding 2 duplex receptacles where I plug in my 3 1K fixtures.

 

[fatcat666]

I have to agree with Philo as the "little gray box" 240V hot water heater timer is the best thing going for HID fixtures.And yes if you have room in the panel I would just run another circuit.It sounds to me like the panel is on the other side of the wall of where you want to mount your timer?That would be very easy.Electricians arent normally too nosy about loads if you are specific about what you want and what you want doesnt violate the code or common sense lol.Hell just tell him you're fixing to do a lot of construction inside and you are relocating your hot water heater.I run a 10 wire 240V circuit to a little gray box and from the timer to a 4 inch sq box holding 2 duplex receptacles where I plug in my 3 1K fixtures.

correct, where i want to the timer to go is right on the other side of the wall where the breaker is located. it looks like i have a ton of room in the panel. so should i just ask him to wire in a standard 240v receptacle and 30a circuit? and then i can get whatever timer / controller board that plugs into that.

thanks

 

[madpenguin]

Yes, that would be the best option. Sparkjumper clarified the reason for my earlier question.

If your having a controller box specifically built for this room, then make sure it is rated for whatever drop the electrician puts in. That was my only concern.

 

[vancityj]

Can you drill a 3/4" hole through the closet to pass the 8-gauge wire through yourself? Probably not to code, but would save you the expense of an electrician, as well as potential security risk. It's relatively easy to attach the red and black wires to a 40-amp (stablock? grey) breaker, carefully attach the bare ground to the panel, and fasten the white neutral before simply snapping in the breaker; turn off the main breaker first. Otherwise, you could make a splitter for your 30-amp dryer plug socket (attach two 6" boxes together, attach a 30-amp plug/cord to the 30-amp socket mounted in box 1, and piggyback your 8 gauge wires from one mounted-socket to the other; plug splitter into wall, plug dryer back into socket 1, power board from socket 2; don't conflict 'on' times).

 

[Philosophelon]

Usually dryer circuits are 30A, and range circuits are 50A. I thought you wanted to use the existing dryer circuit for your lights, that's why I said install another 30A 240V receptacle on the dryer circuit in your grow room. And you are correct, if you do that you won't be able use your dryer while your lights are on.

I agree that the best option for you is to install a new 30A 240V circuit for the lights -- but then you have to be careful not to overload your main breaker, especially as it's only 100A. Since it's your house, you could also upgrade to a 200A main, and then you could run your dryer/range/lights whenever you want.

Also, the reason I said to disconnect the old dryer outlet was just so that no one could use the dryer when your lights were on (on the same circuit), but since you still want to use your dryer, that won't work out very well .