this problem started around the beginning of june, they would have been 2 weeks flowering then. I only have pix in my album, please look and give opions. the pix are about 1 to 2 weeks old, not much has changed. I am wordering what is going on, the flowers are still growing, but almost all the old growth and some new growth too, are dying fast. I think its crazy, because the flowers have been doubling in size every 2-3 days, but leaves dying. the leaves look like they hawe rusty spots, yellowing edges, and curling down with tips burning up. please if anyone has any opions or think can be helpful, please reply. thanks
6 weeks flowering and still having serious issues
- Thread starter deviant1
- Start date
You have a bunch of stuff going on here. Probably due to an initial overdose which ended in lockout. Looks like it had some Nitrogen overdose at one time and that translated into a magneseium as well as a phosphorus deficiency. If your six weeks into an eight week strain........there isn't much you'll be able to do. But lets try.
Questions in order to help ya:
Water type: Tap or RO or bottled:
Tap water PPMs and PH before use:
Solution PH level:
Nutrients being used:
Additives:
Solution PPMs:
System type: Aero/ Ebb & Flo ???:
Air temperatures:
Rez Temperatures:
How often do you change the rez water:
What type of PH/PPM tester are you using:
Ventilation:
Lighting size:
Did you use bug sprays or any other sprays:
The very first thing you need to do when ANY problem like this rears its ugly head is to FLUSH. Flush flush flush with plain water.
Then:
Refill the rez with Plain PH adjusted water to 6.0 and do not add anything else until I or someone gets back to ya. I'll be back here in the AM on Wednesday.
They are not dying. So don't worry about that.
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Lilly456
I'm with Pirate and I think you may have some rootzone issues, the roots are off color when they should be white.have you got high growroom temps and high nightime temps that would raise your rez temps too high?Best of luck, all is not lost, throw an ice block in your rez if you don't have a cooler. I used to have the same problem on the east coast due to 80 degree + rez temps, so I'd switch to soil in the summer...
ok well 1st off, thank you both (pirate and lily456) for your help. maybe together we can figure this out. btw I have 5 total with 2 different strains all in the same res. I believe them to be sour diesel and super skunk, but again not for sure. ill start answering your questions now. WATER TYPE? tap water(6.8 ph & 74 ppm) I was using distilled up till a week ago, too many ph swings. I have ph at 6.3 now been there for almost a week now. SOLUTION PH? after the mix, its 5.5 to 5.7. NUTES I USE? GH 3 part( lucas formula) 0-5-10, and I think this is still too much.SOLUTION PPM? 740. SYSTEM TYPE? dwc (18 gal. only fill with 12 gal. solution)). AIR TEMPS? DAYTIME-81F - 86F , NIGHT - 68F -73F. RES. TEMPS? were 71F-73F,, now im using frozen water bottles to help with res. temps. they are at 63F-68F, works pretty well for me. R.H. ranges from 40-60. PH/PPM METERS I USE? HANNA PHep meter, PPM METER is HM DIGITAL TDS-3 handheld meter( uses 0.5 convertion ).WHEN DO I CHANGE RES.? every 10-12days, using lucas addback plain ph'd water, till you have added same amount of plain water as you did in you solution to begin with. VENTILATION? im in a small closet,2.5x 3.0 x 6'0 ft. im using 3 pc 120mm fans stacked together, then were installed in the ceiling, and have been working very well, absolutely no odors. LIGHTING? using stealth hydro pro 420w cfl kit, includes 2 6500k, 2 5000k , and 2 3000k. 6 total cfl's each is 105w and put out 6000 - 7000 lumens per bulb. USE ANY SPRAYS? just ph'd water. I have flushed about 1 week ago, after I added back a weaker solution of 0-4-8 & ph 6.1. I have done almost everything you've both said, except for running jus plain water @ 6.0 for about a week, do you think I still need to do this. If so I will do it, if you think it can still help me out. thanks again guys.
Well it sound sto me like most everything is in order.
Your rez may be a bit high in temperature but I run mine at that temp without problems.
Air temperatures are high but........I would say this isn't the problem
PH after nutrients is high IMO. I run mine at 5.8 to 6.0 and rarely have problems. Lower yours.
I also use the lucas formula. I would say with your lower wattage lighting.......using the lower solution of 0-5-10 is a good choice.
When mixing in the solution.......make sure you add the MICRO first and stir well BEFORE adding in the Bloom. This will prevent lockout. When topping off.......I add my plain water and THEN adjust PH. I do not PH my water and then add that to the rez. Not sure how you do it.......just mentioning how I do it since I have great results with Lucas.
Bring the PH down to 5.8 - 6.0. If mine was at 6.3.......and had the same problem as your photos.......I would assume it was my PH...... IF it was at 6.3. Bring it down.
Make sure your meter is Calibrated. (thats a good meter by the way)
UNLESS you see new problems appearing on different leaves........it may be fixed already. The leaves that have damage will not recover and may continue to progress due to the tissue damage already done. IF it progresses to new leaves......then there is a problem for sure. But these plants are at the end of their cycle. You'll be smoking them soon.
I can see in some photos that you had a Nitrogen overdose at one point a while back. (Leaves dark green and curled in) just like a "rams horn". This would cause the other problems to show up.
IMO........Everything else is fine. Your plants are not dying and will not die from this issue at this stage of the game. You have 2 or 3 weeks until harvest. You'll make it just fine.
Next time......Start with a lower PPM and raise it as needed. Better to be low and add.....then be to high and burn.
Hope that helped a little. I know I didn't say much to change what you've been doing.
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Your rez may be a bit high in temperature but I run mine at that temp without problems.
Air temperatures are high but........I would say this isn't the problem
PH after nutrients is high IMO. I run mine at 5.8 to 6.0 and rarely have problems. Lower yours.
I also use the lucas formula. I would say with your lower wattage lighting.......using the lower solution of 0-5-10 is a good choice.
When mixing in the solution.......make sure you add the MICRO first and stir well BEFORE adding in the Bloom. This will prevent lockout. When topping off.......I add my plain water and THEN adjust PH. I do not PH my water and then add that to the rez. Not sure how you do it.......just mentioning how I do it since I have great results with Lucas.
Bring the PH down to 5.8 - 6.0. If mine was at 6.3.......and had the same problem as your photos.......I would assume it was my PH...... IF it was at 6.3. Bring it down.
Make sure your meter is Calibrated. (thats a good meter by the way)
UNLESS you see new problems appearing on different leaves........it may be fixed already. The leaves that have damage will not recover and may continue to progress due to the tissue damage already done. IF it progresses to new leaves......then there is a problem for sure. But these plants are at the end of their cycle. You'll be smoking them soon.
I can see in some photos that you had a Nitrogen overdose at one point a while back. (Leaves dark green and curled in) just like a "rams horn". This would cause the other problems to show up.
IMO........Everything else is fine. Your plants are not dying and will not die from this issue at this stage of the game. You have 2 or 3 weeks until harvest. You'll make it just fine.
Next time......Start with a lower PPM and raise it as needed. Better to be low and add.....then be to high and burn.
Hope that helped a little. I know I didn't say much to change what you've been doing.
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thanks again pirate for all your help. so iyo, im doing everything correct, since changed to lucas. is there anything that you see that maybe could help me in the future, actually I think that the lucas formula may have saved my babies, since it cuts out the grow all together. also how can you tell I only have 2-3 weeks left? I was thinking that im only bout half way, being that they seem to be mostly sativas, I was thinking they would need to go for 10-12 weeks. and since I've had this problem that has stunted my growth a bit, that I was gonna have to go even a lil longer than that 10-12 weeks. btw the buds are not very big yet either, shouldn't I get some pretty good size buds and a reasonable yeild? it will suck if im that close to being done, I wanted more than that. I got this much off a single in soil last time. if you can explain to me how you know how long they have left, that would be very much appreciated. thanks pirate
something I may have left out earlier, I only jus changed my ph to 6. to 6.3 a week ago. someone here told me to do that for a week, so that they can take in more mag, cal, and k. then after a week go back to normal ph. I was using ph of 5.5 to 5.9, this all started when I swithed to 12/12, or shortly there after. also what would be an ideal res temp to shoot for? been told about 66F-69F, is this correct?
I do not know. I was assuming based on the strain I thought I saw in your photos. I assumed an 8 or 9 weeks. If they go to 10......even better. since you have more time to grow em out.
My rez temperatures run around 70 to 72. Sometimes higher. But I am using Aero. My temperatures are technically to high. Shoot for 68 / 69 and your right in there.
YES......raising the PH would increase MAG uptake. Someone gave ya good info. But keep your PH around 6.0 and you'll be covered on all bases. I run at 6.0 and seldom have a problem.
Unless you see NEW Damage on NEW leaves.......I think you have everything dialed in. The original damage MAY be due to the PPMs and the lower wattage lamps. (CFLs). This is why I said......run lowerr next time and add as needed verses running it high and having to fix it. Once its burnt.......your screwed. But a low PPMs or underfeed is easily fixed without a glitch in growth.
Keep in mind. These are just my opinions. Others may do things differently with great success. But I never say anything I don't do myself.
Hope that helps man.
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maybe you can help figure out for sure what strains they are? if you have any ideas I would like to hear it. I was jus goin of what they said when I got the stuff, id like to know if they were right? as far as the new growth, it looks good, but its sttill a lil yellowing on tips. other than that the news look good. btw theres a lot of new on the bottom of trees too. it does sound and look like I am close to having dialed in, like you said. should I keep it at 6.0 or let swing a lil, like from 5.8 to 6.0? in your opinion, do you have any idea on how much I should yield off all 5 total? any ideas will help me, im jus curious about what these cfl's will do. thanks pirate, and if I need to, can I pm you if I need more advice?
HydroManiac
Active member
If your growing in hydro a ph of 6.0 is to high your ph while in flowering should be between 5.5 and 5.8 when flowering and 5.0-6.0 in vegging don't use tap water or distilled try using ro water
HydroManiac
Active member
If your ppm is that low you should be fine!
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Lilly456
Do you live by the sea? What's the salt content of your water?If not then do you let the chlorine gas escape from your city water for a couple days before using it in your mix?Years ago my well was near the sea and had a high salt content which was ok with soil more or less but hydro the plants looked like dogshit so I switched to R/O water and added cal-mag and no worries.Anyway, salt or chlorine or a ph too high and a ppm of 2000ppm(not that yours is) will do that.The problem is that there are so many symptoms like that with different problems.My chems like a 6.2, my SSH likes a 5.6 as do most of my other plants so things can vary greatly.I think in the end you'll overcome it with the help of everybody 'round here...Good luck and here's to a nice harvest, regardless...
Like Pirate said, a REAL good ph meter is a key product for all using hydro, although some bankroll without it....Does your ph drift after it runs through your system? Sometimes you have to correct it everyday...
Like Pirate said, a REAL good ph meter is a key product for all using hydro, although some bankroll without it....Does your ph drift after it runs through your system? Sometimes you have to correct it everyday...
I run with tap water that comes out at......80 PPMs and a PH of 6.8 and I am fairly close to the ocean. (A few miles)
I run my system at 5.8 to 6.0 with Hydro flood and some Aeroponics. Anything lower or higher begins to create deficiency issues. Check out a "Nutrient Availability chart based on PH". 5.8 to 6.0 is IDEAL. Getting out of those ranges makes certain nutes unavailable. (Up to 6.2 if you have a MG deficiency during flower though)
Lucas suggests an RO filter system when your PPMs are over 300 from tap. Anything less than that and its grower option only.
IMO......You have GREAT tap water. Stick with it unless you can prove it sucks through a water test. But even that is over rated and un-needed. So many people make things to difficult.
Keep in mind also.......The new "Cap and Trade" bill is going to "RATION OUR WATER" if you are on a public system. That means we will be monitored as to how much water we use and will be fined when we go over our 'ALLOTMENT". The EPA could come in to check your system as to why you use so much water........and make...... "REQUIRED......SUGGESTIONS" on how to fix it. An RO filter wastes 75% of its output. For every 25 gallons you make.......75 gallons will go down the drain. That will end in fines and/or Inspections by "Uncle Sam" if the bill gets through the senate. (same deal for electricity by the way)
Like I said.......Your going to get 1000 opinions on growing. It will get confusing.
See my Cave below in the SIG.
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I run my system at 5.8 to 6.0 with Hydro flood and some Aeroponics. Anything lower or higher begins to create deficiency issues. Check out a "Nutrient Availability chart based on PH". 5.8 to 6.0 is IDEAL. Getting out of those ranges makes certain nutes unavailable. (Up to 6.2 if you have a MG deficiency during flower though)
Lucas suggests an RO filter system when your PPMs are over 300 from tap. Anything less than that and its grower option only.
IMO......You have GREAT tap water. Stick with it unless you can prove it sucks through a water test. But even that is over rated and un-needed. So many people make things to difficult.
Keep in mind also.......The new "Cap and Trade" bill is going to "RATION OUR WATER" if you are on a public system. That means we will be monitored as to how much water we use and will be fined when we go over our 'ALLOTMENT". The EPA could come in to check your system as to why you use so much water........and make...... "REQUIRED......SUGGESTIONS" on how to fix it. An RO filter wastes 75% of its output. For every 25 gallons you make.......75 gallons will go down the drain. That will end in fines and/or Inspections by "Uncle Sam" if the bill gets through the senate. (same deal for electricity by the way)
Like I said.......Your going to get 1000 opinions on growing. It will get confusing.
See my Cave below in the SIG.
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L
Lilly456
I'm still with Pirate on this one, especially the water and electricity checking by big bro Obama, if you are not green enough for them it's the eastern front or Siberia...but that's another topic..stay "green" or else is what it may come down to and we'll all be trying to warm ourselves around our 150 watt cabinets...
