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How big of a difference does insulated ducting make in a 4Kw room?

Hey there,

So my room will be a well insulated and Air conditioned 12 x 12 x 8 framed CGE. I will have 4 1000 watt HPS over my babies in cool sun xl air cooled reflectors. I am curious since there will be about 25 feet of ducting inside the CGE connecting the lamps how big a difference will using insulated ducting make compared to dryer ducting?

I will be using air at night time from outside where it is nice and cool and the air will be dumped back outside.

Thanks so much

Dank Sinatra
 
O

ogatec

it makes difference enough to make it worthwhile to do. that bad part is the isulated ducting is harder to work with. for strait lines that dont need bent or moved, it is great.
 
my ducting goes in a U shape, no 90 degree angles, but a U. Since you seem familar with the stuff ill ask a more specific question.

If my ducting is shaped in a U over a 9 x 9 foot growing area, the ducting will actually only be 5 feet wide and 12 feet long, with the lights being on the ARMs of the U shape, would it be worth while to use insulated ducting on everything but the curved part of the U or am i wasting my time at that point?

Also is that stuff flamable? I would hope not, but i am not sure exactly how hot a 1000 watt gets in degrees
 
anyone else want to weigh in on this? I am going with insulated ducting, but would love to get some more opinions down in case someone else has the same question : )
 
M

micro gro

It's worth it IMO. Pre-insulated flexible ducting is relatively cheap.
 
G

Guest 18340

Imo, ANYTHING you can do to minimize heat in your grow room is a plus. Every little bit helps.
 
yea it is pretty cheap, i found some 6" ducting with r-6 insulation. I would really like a higher rating but couldn't find anything so this will have to do.

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madpenguin

Member
Yes, for sure, use it. That same silver lined R6 flex can be found at a "Sears Heating & Cooling" store. No need to order it online if you have a similar store nearby. Any HVAC shop that doesn't require you to have a contractors license to open an account is the best place to get all your crap. The black lined r6 flex can be found at lowes for use in attic crawl spaces and what not.

Ofcourse, these are probably all US stores I'm mentioning.

I'd also look into getting those heat shields from hydro-innovations for your reflectors as well. Summer is here and anything you can do to keep that heat away will be of great help.
 
I'd also look into getting those heat shields from hydro-innovations for your reflectors as well. Summer is here and anything you can do to keep that heat away will be of great help.

You answered my question without me even asking. You are psychic lol

those things are tight and only like 5 bucks right?
 

madpenguin

Member
No. They are about 50 a piece. Still worth it IMO. Those reflectors can radiate quite a bit of heat. You'd really want a strong CFM fan with cool outside air sealing everything up tight like that. I'd worry about bulb burnout with excessive heat.

I'm in the middle hooking up my 2 600w's with duct pulling air from outside @ night time. I wound up ditching the insulated ducting. Too cumbersome and heavy for the tight space I have to work with. My 2 lights are on the same 6' light rail. The sheer weight of the insulated ducting was throwing my reflectors all over the place. Had to switch to the flimsy 6" flex to make it work.

Hydroinovations also makes insulated duct sleeve that may work well with that type of flex. Looks to be fairly thin and flexible. Don't know tho.
 

RockyMountainHi

I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with th
Veteran
It would help to know what temps are when everything is up and running under growing conditions. Then you get the idea of what else is needed.

For the first time in 6 years my room is a/c - and this summer has been very cool and mild - and rainey so I haven't had the 100+ temps - yet. I also don't have enough plants to warrant all the lights available.

That said - temps in the mid 70's are easy thus far, so I don't think I will be needing any additional enviromental improvments anytime soon.

I think in your position - it's time to kick the switch and see what it's do.

I have an infrared thermometer which makes it easy to find hot spots - and I have 6 thermometers spread around the room.

Temps are only important if they are wrong - the only wayI know to check that is - UNLEASH THE HOUNDS.


well?
What ya waiting fer?

good luck!
 
If your budget permits then why not?

Kinda what i was thinkin.... doin this all in my head at first so not sure it it will be needed.

No. They are about 50 a piece. Still worth it IMO. Those reflectors can radiate quite a bit of heat. You'd really want a strong CFM fan with cool outside air sealing everything up tight like that. I'd worry about bulb burnout with excessive heat.

$50, oh shit i must have read that way wrong back in the day. At what temperature do you begin to worry about bulb burnout? I figure get everything done up, then i'll check the temps and see if my fan can warrant it, or if i should just let the AC take care of radiant heat.

I was thinking about using this stuff because my lights aren't on light movers and i can support them with a few cheap hang chains and some eye hooks. There are a couple HVAC stores so i am going to call around and see what they offer. Plus this way i can run my room w/o it see the temps and then throw it on and see the difference.
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It would help to know what temps are when everything is up and running under growing conditions. Then you get the idea of what else is needed.

For the first time in 6 years my room is a/c - and this summer has been very cool and mild - and rainey so I haven't had the 100+ temps - yet. I also don't have enough plants to warrant all the lights available.

That said - temps in the mid 70's are easy thus far, so I don't think I will be needing any additional enviromental improvments anytime soon.

I think in your position - it's time to kick the switch and see what it's do.

I have an infrared thermometer which makes it easy to find hot spots - and I have 6 thermometers spread around the room.

Temps are only important if they are wrong - the only wayI know to check that is - UNLEASH THE HOUNDS.


well?
What ya waiting fer?

good luck!

Fuck yea, i like you attitude. I am a week or so away, i have to get moved into my new house, get my wall framed an built, buy all my shit... hahahah

still a few days off, but I appreciate your alls willingness to be so helpful.
 
N

NOYB

You answered my question without me even asking. You are psychic lol

those things are tight and only like 5 bucks right?
Yeah the insulated ducting helps a lot. As for $50 that's crazy and should cost around $5. I used 2 layers of Reflectix and aluminum tape on the top and sides of the hood. I see lot's of pics of rooms with insulated ducting yet the hoods are bare...it's a very easy fix.

Something else I used to do on the very short runs between two hoods is use regular ducting to connect the hoods and make a tube of Reflectix to go around the ducting. The ducting would actually float inside the tube and I could raise/lower the individual hoods. I zapped all my pics but think you get the idea.
 
it really cuts down on duct/fan noise.

would you say it helps cut down on noise at the intake/exhaust, or just the ambient fan noise in the room?

Something else I used to do on the very short runs between two hoods is use regular ducting to connect the hoods and make a tube of Reflectix to go around the ducting. The ducting would actually float inside the tube and I could raise/lower the individual hoods. I zapped all my pics but think you get the idea.

sounds like a fun project, but i have so much on my plat ei think i am going to stick with the insulation for now : )
 

RockyMountainHi

I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with th
Veteran
Here's dual 1000's with a 750 cfm fan turned down to about 50%









I just draw the 74 F air thru the hoods and exhaust it into a honkin carbon scrubber in the next room.

Oh,,, yeah,,,, both the lights are on a 6 ft. mover too



back and forth, back and forth,,,,, in 75 deg comfort
 
N

NOYB

would you say it helps cut down on noise at the intake/exhaust, or just the ambient fan noise in the room?
My experience is that most fan noise (air flowing really) is on the intake side but insulated ducting will help reduce fan noise in general.
 

Phillthy

Seven-Thirty
ICMag Donor
Veteran
huge difference on ambient and intake noise. i dont have any on the exhaust side so no change in sound there.
 
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