I have a 12 x 14 room six 1000 watt lights. For one reason or another this room doesn't grow anything correctly. I have a clone room and started with great healthy clones. After about two weeks they start to yellow just like you see in the pictures. It looks exactly like a phosphurus deficiency but I know that can't be it because I use Flora Nova which is high in phosphurus. My temp is 68. have a gen 1 co2 burner, ph is always 5.8-6.0, ppm 600-650, use rhizotonic. THis is my third attempt in this room and they always yellow out. Instead of throwing out those clones I give them to friends and they turn out great for them. I asked them for some info!!! and can't seem to get an answer. Please look at pics. If you can't see them can someone explain how to upload them. I have them in my photogallery and I go to my photos when I am doing this thread put insert. I can see them in my computer but for some reason everyone else can't see them. Could use some help if pics aren't visible. Thanks!!!
Any info!!!
- Thread starter saffie2
- Start date
What is the style of grow with that rw in rockage planters ? Is that on an e&f table?
How often you flooding? And why are you running a 5.8 to 6.0 start pH ?
How often you changing out the res, and how are you maintaining the res between res changes?
The input pH is way too high for floranova in hydro, especially into a rw cube which will drift it right up past 6.4 where P and most of the micros go def.
Imho, (not trying to sound like a wise ass but) Your friends pH meter is possibly calibrated better than yours and they're flooding the table more frequently imho, plus your friends are probably running closer to the right pH range for gh chem hydro nutes, which is 5.1 to 5.9 range with a 5.2'ish input pH being the optimal input pH in a hydro system using chem hydro nutes like gh. I'd change the input pH and let it drift within the range.
I'd also back off the lights some until the nutes are sorted btw.
smokin 2 live
Member
howdy saffie2 
just my 2 cents worth, but i would try adding a bit of N to them clones. such as some fishy fertz, like maxicrop liquid fish. BUT only give abut quarter strenght! And also some thrivealive B1. Deliver this via a spray bottle to the leaves. And check to see that the meduim ( the peat pods, or whatever ya use is'nt to wet ).
Really not much to go on, since we cant see your pics, but i kinda had the same thing going on a while back and this helped to clear things up.
Hope i helped ya out in any way man
Good luck
S2L
just my 2 cents worth, but i would try adding a bit of N to them clones. such as some fishy fertz, like maxicrop liquid fish. BUT only give abut quarter strenght! And also some thrivealive B1. Deliver this via a spray bottle to the leaves. And check to see that the meduim ( the peat pods, or whatever ya use is'nt to wet ).
Really not much to go on, since we cant see your pics, but i kinda had the same thing going on a while back and this helped to clear things up.
Hope i helped ya out in any way man
Good luck
S2L
W
Weedman Herb
Are you shaking the fuck out of the FloraNova or using mechanical means to mix it? FN is thick stuff ... GH isn't kidding when they say Shake Vigorously on the cap ... Using co2 when you're plants aren't dialed in can be Counter Productive IMHO and could cause them to grow themselves Out ...
Can you see pictures!!!
Can you see pictures!!!
I have a 12 x 14 room six 1000 watt lights. For one reason or another this room doesn't grow anything correctly. I have a clone room and started with great healthy clones. After about two weeks they start to yellow just like you see in the pictures. It looks exactly like a phosphurus deficiency but I know that can't be it because I use Flora Nova which is high in phosphurus. My temp is 68. have a gen 1 co2 burner, ph is always 5.8-6.0, ppm 600-650, use rhizotonic. THis is my third attempt in this room and they always yellow out. Instead of throwing out those clones I give them to friends and they turn out great for them. I asked them for some info!!! and can't seem to get an answer. Please look at pics. If you can't see them can someone explain how to upload them. I have them in my photogallery and I go to my photos when I am doing this thread put insert.One of the pics show a recently transplanted clone and if you look at the edges you can already see it is starting to yellow. Thanks!!!
Can you see pictures!!!
I have a 12 x 14 room six 1000 watt lights. For one reason or another this room doesn't grow anything correctly. I have a clone room and started with great healthy clones. After about two weeks they start to yellow just like you see in the pictures. It looks exactly like a phosphurus deficiency but I know that can't be it because I use Flora Nova which is high in phosphurus. My temp is 68. have a gen 1 co2 burner, ph is always 5.8-6.0, ppm 600-650, use rhizotonic. THis is my third attempt in this room and they always yellow out. Instead of throwing out those clones I give them to friends and they turn out great for them. I asked them for some info!!! and can't seem to get an answer. Please look at pics. If you can't see them can someone explain how to upload them. I have them in my photogallery and I go to my photos when I am doing this thread put insert.One of the pics show a recently transplanted clone and if you look at the edges you can already see it is starting to yellow. Thanks!!!
Have you received a water report from your water district yet?
What is the hardness of your water straight out of the tap?
Do flora Nova nutes go old?
Whats the temp of your water? Of your room?
I am running the multi-flow system with hydroton rocks. What I do is clone them in rapid rooters transplant them into a 3 x 3 rockwool cube. Then when I see a good root structure I put them in the 3.2 gallon buckets filled with rocks. I flood them once a day. I run a ph 5.8-6.0 because I always thought that was the rule of thumb. Res change is every week. I thought it was the system overwatering so I decided to hand water. I still see the same results. My friends do exctly the same system I do and I follow the same feeding as they do. I even have the same ph,ppm meter Hanna that they do. Still this always happens. However I think you are right about backing off the lights. I can remember that when the lights were higher up they looked pretty good as soon as I started putting the lights closer this started to happen.
Saffie2, Its not about how much P is in the chem hydro package, it's about the pH value in which that P, and some of the micros is available to the plants. You've been hand watering & basically top feeding the cubes in those planters. You'd be better off to go back to running them hydro flow style and adjusting the flood height to just touching the bottoms of the cubes within the planters...and also flooding more often. Cover up the tops of the cubes so they don't get choked off with algae growth, hopefully they're not too tightly squashed around the sides by the surrounding rocks either, because that can mess with the rw's ability to breathe too. Next run with this system saffie2, I would stay the heck away from the bigger cubes and run just the 1" mini-cubes in the rocks and you'll not see any overly wet cube'age or have to worry as much about pH's upward drift in the rw like you may be seeing now.
Anyway, back to the pH and the P def looking symptom. In chemical mineral salts hydro nutes like your using, there is also the issue of elements 'precipitating' (chemically falling out of the solution and becoming useless to the plants) thus becoming unavailable at higher pH levels. Running an input pH at 5.8 and higher like you've been doing, you run the risk of that pH rising into the sixes and becoming P def along with over half the micro nute elements in the solution "within" the medium. In your case, you have semi large rw cubes and they're notorious for pH drifting up within them.
Also, if you examine a good pH availability chart, you'll see that a pH of 5.8 is the weakest point for mg uptake.
If you lower your input pH, then the potentially higher pH in the cubes between floods will not get as high.
I believe you'll see a noticable improvement if you just run at a lower input pH.
What you've always thought was the rule of thumb 5.8 for a start pH is not correct when running hydroponics with chemical mineral salts nutes like GH flora series and gh floranova. The correct pH range for these IS a 5.1 to 5.9 range, with an input pH of 5.2 being the optimal pH for the new res change. However it is best to allow the res pH to drift within the range so the plants can receive the full menu on their plate.
So as not to shock them with the pH change, I would lower it to 5.5 for a while and then drop it down to 5.2 after they've started showing a color improvement in the new growth. the leaves that are already heavily damaged will not get better btw. If everything looks fine at 5.5, then by all means leave it there if it makes you feel more comfortable than going as low as 5.2 for the initial res start pH.
Heres some backup information on the chem nute pH issue, excerpted from flairform..
http://www.flairform.com/hints/ph_optimum.htm
hth,
10k
ps... When ever you change out the reservoir, it is always a good idea to run some ph'd water thru all the planters (especially to flush out the large rw cubes) to wash out built up mineral salts, then drain it off and cycle the fresh res nutes through the system to replenish the planters with fresh food.
pss..Some of that damage I believe is light & heat stress too, so be cautious how close the plants get to that intense 6000 watts.
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