How to build temporary walls on a cement floor?

[oldschoolfarmer]

I have a great space for a new grow room - it's part of a 6 car garage. Thing is, I can't bolt anything to the floor but the walls and ceiling are fair game.

I want to close in a corner of the garage with two temporary walls. Something decently sturdy, but not something requiring floor bolts. I've thought about using cloth, but I'd like to avoid it if possible. I would like to build this structure as air tight as possible though (for smell).


Any ideas? What would you do if you had this much space and a 12 plant limit?

 

[cork144]

how about a wooden floor with posts bolted into that?

 

[Phillthy]

yep, build a floor out of 2x4 and osb then screw or nail the walls to that. this will also keep the plants off of the cold concrete.

 

[CoughingWidow]

Do exactly that by only securing studs to the wall and ceiling. You can also just frame it in normally like you would for any wall, but instead of anchoring the bottom studs secure them with the vertical runs and wall studs. The rough structure won't be as sturdy compared to studs on both the ceiling and ground. As you enclose this with sheetrock / particle board the weight and stitching of screws will sturdy things up the most.

Or do what the other two suggested a wooden floor. Something that already has some weight to it.

I'm guessing you don't want to have any holes in the concrete to patch later?

 

[PharmaCan]

I'd frame with steel studs, just because it's easier and more forgiving. However, steel or wood, you can stick the bottom plate to the floor with a bead of caulking. Just use a single 1/4" bead, otherwise it can be a bitch get up when you tear out the wall. Once the caulking dries, the bottom plate won't budge.

Good luck with your project!

PC

 

[Haps]

Do you need hard walls? I would hang plastic walls from the ceiling, and if you want air tight, just do a double layer of walls giving you an air lock effect. I take a 1 x 2 firring strip, tape the black plastic to it, turn the tape side to the ceiling, and screw the strip to the ceiling, leaving me with a hanging wall. Velcro dots or strips for closures. One way to get a room with no floor work.
H

 

[oldschoolfarmer]

I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I would prefer to keep the plants directly on the concrete as that will act as a heat sink for my rez, but then again I can always leave a hole in the faux floor for the rez to fit into.

Haps - what type of plastic are you talking about? Is it something they'd carry at home depot?

 

[KUSHEATER1]

black and white poly

 

[Haps]

The black 6ml plastic I have came from menards 4 years ago, 100 ft roll, not sure if home depot has it. The panda poly would be better, I would order that, but this big roll ain't ever gonna run out. You can even use thinner wood or plastic strips and a staple gun. I have only done three small projects using this, but it is a simple easy build and take down, cheap too, have fun with it. Any corner can be a grow room.
H

 

[junior_grower]

build wood walls. Cut the studs 1/8 long and ass you hammer them into the vertical position they will lock the plate there.

 

[doob-e-pufr]

Drill 1/4" hole through plate into floor. Take 2 16d duplex(doublehead) nails, drive simultaneously into hole until snug. When you need to remove, pull one nail out, your loose.

 

[dondeago]

place your 2x4 studing on the floor and use builders adhesive to stick them to the concrete directly. This stuff dries hard as rock and it won't let ya down. use this to build the base shape of the cab and go upwards from there. You'll need to go to a builders merchant to get the good stuff though, but you can buy a slightly weaker version from most diy stores..... Hope this helps dude.
good luck

 

[DonkDBZ]

Liquid Nails. It will scrape off later with a chisel pretty easy.

 

[Lord Doobie]

cinder blocks?

 

[ogatec]

Liquid Nails. It will scrape off later with a chisel pretty easy.

thats how the pros do it! construction glue is your friend.(unless you get it on your hands)

 

[PharmaCan]

Everyone who've actually done this before, raise your hands.

Construction adhesive (Liquid Nails) will stick the plate to the floor. The problem will be getting it off when you remove the wall. Caulking will hold just as well but will come off easier.

BTW - when you get to the top of the wall and need to secure it to the ceiling, chances are that your ceiling joists run parallel with the long wall of your room and you may or may not be able to locate your wall directly beneath one of those joists. An easy way to overcome this is to cut plywood wide enough to cover two joists then attach the plywood to the joists. This will give you something to either screw or nail into.

PC

 

[Phillthy]

my floor was wood to begin with but you get the idea..

 

[fishheadbob]

Nice room, Phillthy. Larger than this guy would need for a 12 pack, but very nice.
Anyways, I'd go with Liquid Nails. If you're attached to the ceiling joists, the liquid nails should be strong enough to hold up to normal use; I don't think caulking would stay fixed through lots of door openings and closings, etc. It should scrape off the floor when you are ready to tear down without too much scraping.

 

[PharmaCan]

Here's the thing about experience - actually having done something before - you don't have to speculate.

PC

 

[Guvnor]

Right very simply. when you build a stud wall you have 3 main parts, you got your sole plate (piece of wood that runs along the floor) then you have a header plate (this runs along your ceiling) and then your verticals.

Draw out where you want your room to be. First, screw your header plates onto the ceiling, hopefully fixing into the ceiling joists. Then put your sole plate on the floor, dont screw or glue it, just cut to size and lay in position. Now with your header and sole plate in position measure for your verticals- make sure this is a tight fit (add on 3-4 mm to your measurement to ensure a very tight fit) Now with your header and sole plate in place, smash the vertical (uprights) in, start at a wall if possible and then work your way round the room fixing your verticals at every 600mm.

We do this at work when we dont want to screw into the ceiling, by cutting a very tight vertical stud we force the header plate in position and dont have to screw it in place. You need to do the opposite but the same principal applies. Forget glues or adhesives, they will be a nightmare to get up when the time comes, this way you just have to unscrew your ceiling and vertical studs and your floor plate will just lift up.

Hope this helps
Guvnor