Light dimmer compatible with a vortex?
- Thread starter Carbon
- Start date
Depends on the type but, it's generally not wise. Another route is the Speedster, normally sells for $30-$40. Sold as a generic Router Speed Control at HarborFrieght it goes for $10 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060
Good for inlines like Vortex and Elicent. NOT for squirrel cages.
Good for inlines like Vortex and Elicent. NOT for squirrel cages.
BonsaiBud
Member
VFD for AC motor, am I right?
VFD for AC motor, am I right?
Gentlmen, behold: my precious (variable frequency drive)
I got a "Dial a Temp". It gives my Vent Axia (67 watt, 180 cfm) the "wha wha whas". Those things appear to be nothing more than a potentiometer and a rudimentary noise filter. What controlls the speed of an AC induction motor? the frequency: 60 or 50 Hz
My Vent Axia will double its RPM if you cover the intake. So putting a resistor in series with one of these fans does what exactly? You get some kind of RLC where the L is the induction coils of the motor, the C is the current-limiting, soft start capacitor, and the R is the little dial. The RLC is in series with each end in one prong of your power outlet. The Dial-a-Temp may dump some of the resonance energy to ground. I don't really know. I do know that my $180 fan makes unhappy sounds when it gets dialed back. With a simple dimmer dial, it even uses more power when it is dialed down to about 1/2 speed. 20 watts when just above stall, little little resonance. But at about 60%, it used 130 watts and made wa wa wa noises. At full speed it only uses 67 watts as it should. I measured with an analog inductive ammeter and wall voltage which stays exactly at 120.0 volts due to the massive transformer that ran the apartment I was in at the time I conducted this test.
My Dial-a-Temp may be slightly defective on the noise filter side, but it still can't change the frequency. At least it starts at full power and the lowest setting is above stall speed but right at the worst resonance interferrence.
VFD for AC motor, am I right?
Gentlmen, behold: my precious (variable frequency drive)
I got a "Dial a Temp". It gives my Vent Axia (67 watt, 180 cfm) the "wha wha whas". Those things appear to be nothing more than a potentiometer and a rudimentary noise filter. What controlls the speed of an AC induction motor? the frequency: 60 or 50 Hz
My Vent Axia will double its RPM if you cover the intake. So putting a resistor in series with one of these fans does what exactly? You get some kind of RLC where the L is the induction coils of the motor, the C is the current-limiting, soft start capacitor, and the R is the little dial. The RLC is in series with each end in one prong of your power outlet. The Dial-a-Temp may dump some of the resonance energy to ground. I don't really know. I do know that my $180 fan makes unhappy sounds when it gets dialed back. With a simple dimmer dial, it even uses more power when it is dialed down to about 1/2 speed. 20 watts when just above stall, little little resonance. But at about 60%, it used 130 watts and made wa wa wa noises. At full speed it only uses 67 watts as it should. I measured with an analog inductive ammeter and wall voltage which stays exactly at 120.0 volts due to the massive transformer that ran the apartment I was in at the time I conducted this test.
My Dial-a-Temp may be slightly defective on the noise filter side, but it still can't change the frequency. At least it starts at full power and the lowest setting is above stall speed but right at the worst resonance interferrence.
G
Guest
Router speed controllers and the like do not "work" on brushless or slow start motors. This is what it says on the side of the controller and this is what the electric motor shop technician informed me of when I inquired yesterday.
Check it out.
TyStik
Check it out.
TyStik
Beyond the speed control, I also added a fan isolation box out of a cooler and a DIY muffler from Kovenant. I followed his instructions as close as local stores would allow except, I used polyfill, quilt batting rather than fiberglass.
It won't give you true stealth but, if you can keep it on the other side of a door, it's enough.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=65345&highlight=muffler
It won't give you true stealth but, if you can keep it on the other side of a door, it's enough.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=65345&highlight=muffler
greenisgold
Member
Like freezerboy states, buy or make a duct muffler.
If you have the means, get a cooler like FB or find/build a box that will contain the fan and insulate. If you can't get a box, get some insulation that wraps around pipes (one side is reflective) and wrap the hell out of fan and ducting.
Hang the fan by bungy cords if you can.
Every little bit helps.
If you have the means, get a cooler like FB or find/build a box that will contain the fan and insulate. If you can't get a box, get some insulation that wraps around pipes (one side is reflective) and wrap the hell out of fan and ducting.
Hang the fan by bungy cords if you can.
Every little bit helps.
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M
Microwido
The answer to your question is a simply no. It will blow the circuit, I tried. Get the Speedster fan controller.
I have a Growbright 427cfm Fan. It is fairly loud, and when you use decrease the speed with a fan controller, it develops a low pitched hum that travels. So what I did was 2 things.
1. Duct take the whole fan.
The outermost edge of the fan leaks some noise, and in 1 spot a little air.
2. Wrap the whole fan in R13 insulation.
It took some time to get it fully wrapped, but now it is atleast half as loud. If you even leave 1 small area open the sound gets out.
Also I originally mounted the fan to my floor joist in my basement. When you set the fan below 80% it developed a hum that would vibrate the entire floorboard. So I moved the fan to a ledge and was happy with it. Then I realized you absolutely need the filter to be at the top of the room to effectively remove heat. So I created a stand and mounted it so its at the top of the room without touching the floorboard. I also used R13 insulation on the ceiling above the fan in any direction. Now I cannot hear the fan running at all, but hear the air moving a little when upstairs
My 2 cents.
I have a Growbright 427cfm Fan. It is fairly loud, and when you use decrease the speed with a fan controller, it develops a low pitched hum that travels. So what I did was 2 things.
1. Duct take the whole fan.
The outermost edge of the fan leaks some noise, and in 1 spot a little air.
2. Wrap the whole fan in R13 insulation.
It took some time to get it fully wrapped, but now it is atleast half as loud. If you even leave 1 small area open the sound gets out.
Also I originally mounted the fan to my floor joist in my basement. When you set the fan below 80% it developed a hum that would vibrate the entire floorboard. So I moved the fan to a ledge and was happy with it. Then I realized you absolutely need the filter to be at the top of the room to effectively remove heat. So I created a stand and mounted it so its at the top of the room without touching the floorboard. I also used R13 insulation on the ceiling above the fan in any direction. Now I cannot hear the fan running at all, but hear the air moving a little when upstairs
My 2 cents.
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Beyond the speed control, I also added a fan isolation box out of a cooler and a DIY muffler from Kovenant. I followed his instructions as close as local stores would allow except, I used polyfill, quilt batting rather than fiberglass.
It won't give you true stealth but, if you can keep it on the other side of a door, it's enough.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=65345&highlight=muffler
nice one Freezer
is it added to the DIY collection?
T
Teeg420
freezerboy i understand your muffling of the fan with the cooler box but doesnt that cut down on the flow of your fan dramtically by not having the duct connected to the fan? I would recomend cutting a hole on the other side and attach the ducting to your fan, im geussing that thing pulls like duct inline booster at that point.
S
sparkjumper
Dimmer switches are simple rheostats I think they're called designed for use with incandescent lamps only,not motor loads
TraneRek
Member
Is there anything I could do to slow down my Stanley Blower? I know it's not an inline, and I can't find any info other than for inline fans..
Here's a link to the Stanley: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...3&productId=100405672&N=10000003+502974+90401
Thanks,
-Rek
Here's a link to the Stanley: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...3&productId=100405672&N=10000003+502974+90401
Thanks,
-Rek
J
JackTheGrower
The only good sound reduction is an enclosure where the sound can be absorbed.
I face the same issues again as I must build a new grow box and will face the same old noisy fan issues...
I have an 8 inch and a 6 inch inline and do they ever make the noise..
My last solution was mounting inside of a cabinet and that muffled the sound.
Jack
I face the same issues again as I must build a new grow box and will face the same old noisy fan issues...
I have an 8 inch and a 6 inch inline and do they ever make the noise..
My last solution was mounting inside of a cabinet and that muffled the sound.
Jack
